Russian National Costume can be conditionally divided into the costume of Kievan and North-Eastern Rus' of the X-XIV centuries, the costume of Moscow Rus' of the XV-XVII centuries, folk costume XVIII – early XX centuries. In addition, in each time period one can distinguish a costume traditional for commoners and the outfits of noble persons. Before the adoption of Christianity, the clothing of the ancient Slavs showed features of the Scythian costume (shirts, trousers).

The main materials for clothing during this period were linen and wool. In the 10th century, under the influence new faith In the costume of the princes and their entourage, silk tunics that came from Byzantium and basket-like cloaks with a red lining appeared; tunics, dalmatics, and draped cloaks appeared in the wardrobe of their wives and daughters. The clothes of noble people were made from expensive imported fabrics and decorated with gold and silver embroidery, jewelry, and furs.

In the Peter the Great and subsequent eras, the costume of the nobility changed greatly and became no longer the Russian national costume, but a variety of the European one. Only in the peasant and partly merchant environment are the old traditions preserved. Men still wear shirts, ports, zipuns and caftans, and sheepskin coats. The women's costume remains virtually unchanged. The main women's clothing continues to be the shirt and sundress.

In different areas, different colors and methods of cutting sundresses were traditional. In the 18th century they were sewn from canvas and calico, red or of blue color and decorated with a central vertical strip of ribbon, lace, and a row of buttons; the same ribbon was sewn along the bottom of the hem, at the top of the sundress, and sometimes under the chest. In the 19th century, sundresses were made from chintz, calico, satin, satin and other purchased fabrics, often not plain, but patterned, with the fabric gathered into small folds at the top. Belonging women's suit Such items of clothing as epancha, dushegreya, poneva and apron continue to remain.

The basis of women's folk costume of the 10th-14th centuries was a long shirt with long sleeves, decorated along the neck with embroidery or a strip of fabric. contrasting color. The shirt was never worn just like that; a blanket, cufflink or bib was put on top. Poneva is a below-the-knee skirt consisting of three rectangular pieces of fabric connected at the waist with a belt. Ponevas were usually made from brightly colored fabric.

Zapona was straight dress sleeveless with round neck, with slits on the sides from the waist to the bottom. The cufflink was tied with a cord. The bib is the top Short dress With short sleeves and a round neckline, decorated along the hem and neckline with embroidery or stripes of fabric of a different color. One could judge by the headdress marital status women. Unmarried girls wore headbands or hoops, and married girls covered their heads with a warrior (something like a scarf) and an ubrus (a piece of long fabric that was tied around the head in a certain way).

Some innovations also appeared in women's costume of the 15th-17th centuries, although its basis was still a straight long shirt. A sundress is now worn over it - a type of dress with a straight bodice with straps and a flared skirt. Peasant women sew it from linen fabric, and noble girls are made of silk and brocade. A strip of wide braid or embroidered fabric of a contrasting color was sewn on the front of the sundress in the center from top to bottom. The sundress was belted under the chest. In addition, the top women's clothing there was a soul warmer - a short, swinging garment with straps, with or without lining. The soul warmer was made from beautiful patterned fabrics and was additionally decorated with embroidered braid along the edges.

At that time, merchants’ and boyars’ daughters wore a letnik over their shirts - long dress straight cut with wide sleeves, sewn to the elbow like a bell, and then simply hanging down almost to the floor. Several wedges were sewn into the sides of the dress, making the garment very wide at the bottom. The collar and hanging sleeves were richly decorated with pearls and embroidered with gold and silk. Warm outerwear was a long-sleeved fur coat. Telogrea was a long, swinging garment with folding sleeves, fastened with buttons or ties.

An important element of a woman's costume was the headdress. Girls do not cover their heads, but decorate their braids with colored ribbons and beads, and put hoops or crowns on their heads. Married women wear “kichkas” - headdresses consisting of a hoop, a cloth cover and a decorated backdrop. At the same time, the kokoshnik appeared - a headdress with a dense front part of various shapes, richly decorated with gold and silver embroidery, pearls and precious stones. The kokoshnik was tied at the back wide ribbons, in front, sometimes precious pendants or beads fell onto the forehead and temples. Thin beautiful fabrics could be attached to the back of the kokoshnik, which fell in folds to the waist, or even to the floor. In winter, noble ladies wore fur hats, like men's.

The traditional everyday clothing of commoners in the 10th-14th centuries were shirts and ports. Shirts were made from linen fabric various colors or motley length below the hips with one-piece sleeves. They were worn untucked and tied at the waist with a colored cord or a narrow belt. On holidays, the shirt was complemented with embroidered sleeves and round collars.
Ports are men's pants, tapering towards the bottom and tied at the waist with a cord. The traditional shoes of peasants (both men and women) were bast shoes; instead of socks in those days there were onuchi, strips of fabric that were tied around the feet and ankles. Men wore felt caps on their heads.

In the 15th-17th centuries, the everyday costume of peasants changed somewhat. This is how the traditional cut on the neck of a man's shirt moves from the center to left side, and the shirt itself becomes shorter and gets the name “kosovorotka”. Swinging clothes fastened with buttons appeared: zipun and caftan. The zipun was a cloth dress above the knees, slightly wider at the bottom, with narrow sleeves and a butt clasp.

Kaftan is an outerwear below the knee length with long sleeves and high collar. The caftans of noble boyars were usually richly decorated with expensive fabrics, embroidery, braid or braid. Outer winter clothing was a long, swinging fur coat, with wide sleeves and a large collar, lined with sable, fox, hare, arctic fox, squirrel, and sheepskin. The top of the fur coat was usually covered with cloth (peasants used cloth for this, and boyars used expensive imported fabrics).

During this period, the costumes of the feudal nobility and peasants began to differ more and more, and not only in the quality of fabrics and decoration, but even in the cut of clothes. In the 15th-17th centuries, the wardrobe of noble persons included such items of clothing as feryaz and okhaben. Feryaz is a specially cut floor-length caftan with long sleeves, made of silk or velvet fabric. It was customary to put the feryaz on only one arm, strongly gathering the long sleeve, while the second hung freely behind almost to the floor.

Okhaben was also a type of caftan with a large square collar that hung down the back and long sleeves that tied at the back. This caftan was worn on the shoulders. Both of these items of clothing were completely unsuitable for performing any work and were intended only to emphasize the class affiliation of their owner.

The development of Russian folk costume has a rich and long history, its components were formed in the pre-Christian era, in close connection with the architecture of Rus' and pagan beliefs.

Description of Russian folk costume

Women's Russian national costume is much more interesting and richer than men's, because a woman's appearance contains people's ideas about femininity, beauty, family values. In ancient times in Rus', costume was one of the manifestations of folk applied arts and crafts.

The main elements of Russian folk costume were formed in Ancient Rus'. The main costume was a long, straight-cut “shirt,” which was made from homespun fabric, with wide sleeves. Usually, a woman wore more than one such shirt (at least one more acted as underwear).

The clothing of a Russian peasant woman consisted of a shirt like this, decorated with embroidery, which in Russian folk costume was usually placed on the sleeves, hem and shoulders. A plain sundress and an apron were worn on top. The peasant costume was prepared with great diligence, usually in connection with labor holidays - harvesting, haymaking, and pasturing cattle.

Details of Russian folk costume

The sundress is one of the main details of the Russian folk costume for women. Elegant option it was worn complete with a shirt, an apron, and a belt. Each locality had its own style of sundress, and the patterns on it, like on other versions of Russian folk costumes, have their own characteristics. In the southern part of Russia, preference was given to red, which had many different shades. Embroidery on sundresses was done with gold threads and pearls.

The most common headdress of women's Russian folk costume was a thick cap of various shapes, usually lavishly decorated with embroidery and stones.

Girls wore hoops (soft or hard) made of multi-colored ribbons. If unmarried girls could wear one braid or braided hair, then married ladies braided it in mandatory 2 braids and always wore a headdress.

The beauty and pristineness, originality and chastity of Russian folk costume is reflected in modern world, so elements of costumes in Russian folk style in Lately are very relevant in the global fashion industry and are increasingly appearing on fashion catwalks.

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Lesson Objectives:

• Introduce students to the history of Russian folk costume; with the creativity of the Russian people, their culture and traditions.
• Develop spatial imagination intellectual abilities, awaken curiosity in the field of folk, arts and crafts.
• Educational: Contribute to the formation of ideas about the decorative and applied arts of the Russian people, spiritual culture and emotional attitude to reality.
• Educational: to cultivate in children a love for their native country, people, culture, and traditions of their people.

Equipment:

• Presentation "History of Russian costume".
• Visual aids: images of Russian costume, products with embroidery elements.
• For execution practical work: album sheet, glue, colored paper, scraps of fabric, pencils, felt-tip pens, scissors, beads, colored threads, braid.

DURING THE CLASSES

I. Organizational part of the lesson

Check students' readiness for the lesson.

II. introduction teachers

– Today in class we will get acquainted with the history of Russian folk costume. The study of traditional folk costume is of great historical and practical interest. Clothing, being one of the important elements of material culture, reflects the social and economic changes that occurred during certain historical periods.

III. Explanation of new material. Presentation

Clothes in Rus' were loose, long and unusually colorful. Shirts and sundresses were made from homespun canvas and decorated with embroidery, patterned weaving, braid compositions, stripes of lace, ribbons, sequins and beads. Clothes made of red fabric were considered the most elegant. (Slide 3).

Since time immemorial, festive and everyday clothing has had a complex decorative design, where embroidery and lace trim play an important role. Therefore, according to custom, a girl from an early age began to be taught these difficult but fascinating types of creativity. Over the course of many generations, each people inhabiting the vast expanses of our Motherland has developed its own techniques and ways of creating embroidery patterns and the art of lace weaving. The history of Russian costume shows that changes in clothing and the fashion movement itself almost did not affect the common people. The Russian peasant at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries wore approximately the same as in the times of Ancient Rus': a hat, trousers, a shirt, sewn from two pieces (cloths). Women wore a skirt over a long, below-the-knee shirt. Outerwear in use included capes, and shoes, if there were any (they often walked barefoot), were bast shoes or soles held on by belts. In cold weather, the legs were wrapped in canvas (onuchi). (Slide 4).

Women's festive clothing of young women has always been the most striking. (Slide 5).

Festive clothing, northern Russia (Slide 6).

Women's festive clothing of the Ryazan and Voronezh provinces (Slide 7).

Women's festive clothing, Tambov and Kursk provinces (Slide 8).

Among many nations, ancient holiday clothes have a three-tier structure of decorations. The headdress and the upper part of the costume are associated with the image of the sky, so in the patterns of this part of the clothing they addressed the sun, stars, and birds. Ribbons hanging from hats symbolize rain. The patterns and embroideries are dominated by the image of fertile land.

People describe the Russian costume as follows:

Conspiracy spell

Shall I go into an open field -
Under the red sun
Under the light of the month,
Under the flying clouds,
I'll stand in an open field
To level ground,
I'll be covered in clouds,
I'll cover myself with the skies,
I put it on my head
Red sun,
I will gird myself with bright dawns,
I get used to frequent stars,
What sharp arrows -
From any evil illness. (Slide 9).

Jewelry has been passed down from generation to generation in treasured writing that can be read like a book. Each element of the ornament had its own significance and meaning. Scientists note three meanings of the ornament:

• Glory to God! Holiday.
• Request for fertility.
• Thanks to God for what you have done. (Slide 10).

Embroidery is one of the most common types of folk art. The art of creating patterns on fabrics using needles and threads has been known since ancient times. From early childhood, girls learned to embroider. This occupation was traditional for Russian women in both poor and rich families. A peasant girl had to prepare her dowry: a wedding outfit, weekend clothes, bed linen, tablecloths, towels and much more. Women of all classes filled their free time with embroidery.

All items included in the dowry were bright and decorative. (Slide 11).

Embroidery not only made the costume more beautiful and richer, but also had a different meaning. According to popular belief, it was supposed to bring happiness to a person, protect him from all evil and misfortune, and bring him closer to the surrounding nature. (Slide 12).

Ancient Slavic ornaments keep a great secret.
Man tried to figure out how the world works, to find an explanation for the incomprehensible, mysterious, mysterious. He sought to attract the good forces of nature to himself and protect himself from the evil ones, and he did this with the help of his art. People expressed their ideas about the world conventional signs: a straight horizontal line meant land, a wavy horizontal line meant water, a vertical line turned into rain; fire and the sun were depicted with a cross. The pattern was built from these elements and their combinations. The sun has long been revered by all agricultural peoples. “It is not the earth that gives birth, but the sky,” says the Russian proverb. How elegant and festive the objects of peasant life look, decorated with solar circles - symbols of the sun! The image of the sun occupies one of the main places in home decoration. The sun in the form of round rosettes, rhombuses, horses can be found in different types folk art.
The Russian peasant has lived off the land since ancient times. He associated the earth and its fertility with the image of the mother. The female figure is a deity who expressed ideas about the earth that will give birth, and about the woman who continues the family. This image is called differently: the great goddess of the earth, fertility, the mother of the damp earth, Makosh, which means “mother of a good harvest.” The female figure is always associated with symbols of fertility: trees, birds, animals, sun signs. Look how conditionally it is solved. Branches often sprout from the body of the goddess, and instead of her head she has an image of a rhombus - the ancient sign of the sun. Sometimes her figure resembles a tree. A female figure with her hands pointing upward symbolized the unity of the forces of earth and sky, on which human life depended. (Slide 13).

Woman suit

The main parts of women's folk costume were a shirt, an apron or curtain, a sundress, a poneva, a bib and a shushpan. A woman's shirt was made of white linen or colored silk and worn with a belt. It was long, reaching to the feet, with long, gathered sleeves, with a slit at the neck, fastened with a button. (Slide 14).

Shirts and sundresses were decorated with embroidery. Women's headdresses: kokoshniks, kiki, soroki, warriors were of the most unprecedented form. Warmers were very popular in Rus'. It resembled a small sundress and was worn over a sundress, and was sewn from expensive fabrics. (Slide 15).

The shirt, the basis of women's folk costume, was sewn from white linen or hemp fabric. It was decorated with embroidery that protected the woman from the “evil eye.” The collars, shoulders, chest and hem were especially decorated - places of possible “entrances” of evil forces. The shirts that women wore when mowing were called “haymaking shirts.” They were worn without a sundress. It was believed that the more richly a shirt was decorated, the happier and luckier its owner, and when the hem touched the ground, the woman received vitality from it, and, in turn, embroideries with symbols of fertility gave strength to the earth. (Slide 16).

The sundress was worn over a shirt, decorated on the front with a patterned stripe, braid, silver lace, and patterned buttons.

In the south of Russia, instead of a sundress, they wore poneva - homespun plaid skirt made of wool. It was trimmed with ribbons and braid. The poneva was accompanied by an apron, also decorated with images of earth and water. He protected his stomach. For a woman of those times, the belly was the basis of life, a symbol of procreation. (Slide 17).

Epanechka is a short, flared, sleeveless blouse made from brocade fabric. Warmer. It resembled a small sundress and was worn over a sundress; it was sewn from expensive fabrics. (Slide 18).
Poneva is a skirt consisting of three panels of woolen or half-woolen fabric, tied at the waist with a woven narrow belt - gashnik; it was worn only by married women. Poneva - ancient clothing, mentioned in written sources pre-Mongol period.
The term “ponyava” (“poneva”, “ponka”) is a common Slavic term, at first it meant a piece of fabric, a shroud, a blanket.

The fabrics for the blankets were homemade: wool (yarn mainly from sheep wool) and from plant fiber - hemp. The technique of making fabric was the simplest - plain weave. The alternation of wool and plant threads created a pattern of cells on the fabric.
Ponevas, just like shirts, were divided into festive, everyday and everyday. Everyday ones were trimmed along the bottom with a narrow strip of homespun braid. In festive ponevs, much attention was paid to the “klazh” - these are stripes along the hem, in which all the richness of decoration was used to the maximum.
Poneva was worn mainly by married women, and in the memory of the people it remained as “an eternal collar and woman’s bondage.”
The woman’s figure in these clothes seemed more squat than in a sundress. Village clothing corresponded to the way of peasant life, and a woman’s plumpness meant health for a peasant woman, and health meant children and work tirelessly, “until a sweat.”
The coming of age of girls was celebrated among the people with a ritual - “driving them into a ponka,” when on a holiday a girl was put on a poneva in front of all her friends. The poneva was finally worn during the wedding.
Ponevas, which were worn by a young wife before the birth of her first child, were the most beautiful. After the crown, the young woman put on a poneva with a “tail” made of red cloth, silk, fringe and even bells. (Slide 19).

The most decorative, richly decorated part of a Russian woman's costume was the apron, or curtain, covering female figure front. Usually it was made from canvas and decorated with embroidery and woven patterns. Colored finishing inserts, silk patterned ribbons. The edge of the apron was decorated with teeth, white or colored lace, fringe made of silk or woolen threads, and frills of varying thickness. They were worn with sundresses. (Slide 20).

Headdress. A very important part of the costume. In the old days, using it, like a passport, one could learn a lot about a woman, her age, marital status, social class, number of children. The girls wore crowns and headbands and had the right to go bare-haired. Married women hid their hair under a kokoshnik (from the word “kokosh” - rooster, kika or kichka, magpie).

In popular belief, the headdress was associated with the sky; it was decorated with symbols of the sun, stars, trees, and birds. Strings of pearls and temple decorations symbolized rain streams. A veil made of thin patterned fabric was thrown over the kokoshnik.

Hats were divided into girls' and women's, or “women's” hats. Girls, according to custom, braided their hair in one braid, leaving the top of their head open. Therefore, their headdress is all kinds of crowns, headbands, hoops, which were decorated with freshwater pearls and beads. The “bandage”, or, as it was often called, “beauty”, “volushka”, had its own shape and ornament in each village. The girl's headdress was complemented by “guns” - balls of white goose or swan down, as well as “curls” - bright drake feathers.

The basis of all Russian women's headdresses, despite their diversity, was a solid forehead part, depending on the shape (flat, spade-shaped, with horns) called kitschka or a horned kitty. On top it was covered with calico, chintz or velvet. The back of the head was covered by a rectangular strip of fabric - the back of the head. The complex headdress included up to 12 items, weighing up to 5 kilograms.

Young women in the first year of marriage folded their fly into a rope and tied it with it warrior or forty ends first. In the 19th century, head towels and flies were replaced by scarves. They were first used to cover the head on soft hairs, and then directly on the hair, both women and girls. Girls tied their headscarf under their chin, while married women tied it “woman-style” with the ends back. (Slide 21).

Women's hats. (Slides 22, 23, 24).

Various decorations occupied an important place in the costume. IN large quantities necklaces made of pearls and beads, colored wool, gaitans - threaded from beads, to which crosses, icons, amber beads, blown glass beads, and ribbons were hung around the neck. At the end of a long braid there is a braid made of beads. Much loved large earrings, pendants, sometimes they reached the shoulders. Colored belts, narrow woven aprons and wide rainbow woven sashes complemented and decorated the costume, completing the integrity of the entire ensemble. (Slide 25).

Wedding suit- the most elegant and solemn. A wedding is an ancient rite. Ancient peasants firmly believed that how the wedding went depended future life bride and groom. Therefore, all rituals and signs were observed at the wedding. The wedding dress was sewn long before the celebration, as it required a lot of time and labor. All elements of the costume were carefully decorated, protected from evil forces and misfortunes with symbols and ornaments that affirmed happiness, longevity, and healthy offspring. (Slide 26).
Wedding headdresses. (Slide 27).

Men's suit

The costume of a peasant in Rus' consisted of ports and a shirt made of homespun canvas. Since the fabric was narrow (up to 60 cm), the shirt was cut out from separate parts, which were then sewn together, and the seams were decorated with decorative red piping. Shirts were worn untucked and belted with a narrow belt or colored cord. The ports were not wide, narrowed towards the bottom, down to the ankle, and tied at the waist with a cord - a gashnik. On top of them, wealthy people also wore outer silk or cloth trousers, sometimes lined. At the bottom they were tucked either into onuchi - pieces of fabric that were used to wrap the legs, tying them with special ties - frills, and then put on bast shoes, or into boots made of colored leather. (Slide 28).

Festive men's clothing, Penza and Vologda provinces. (Slide 29).

The men's shirt was decorated with embroidery. (Slide 30).

Outerwear was a zipun or caftan made of homespun cloth, wrapped on the left side, fastened with hooks or buttons; in winter - sheepskin head coats. Zipun is an open garment with a semi-fitting, widened silhouette with a butt fastener. Its length was from the middle of the knees and above. The sleeves are narrow, reaching to the wrist. The armhole was straight, the sleeve did not have a collar. The caftan, worn over a zipun, differed not only in decoration, but also in design. Some kaftans (regular, home, weekend) had a straight, wider silhouette and were not cut off at the waist. Others had a fitted silhouette with a cropped waistline and wide gathered bottom. Their length varied from knees to ankles. To decorate them, buttonholes on the chest and along the side slits, metal, wood, woven cord and buttons made of artificial pearls were used. (Slide 31).

The most expensive and fashionable thing was in a suit button. The largest buttons the size of egg. Buttons were made of gold, silver, pearls, crystal, metal and wicker. Each button had its own name. Sometimes the buttons were more expensive than the dress itself. (Slide 32).

We watched the presentation and got acquainted with the history of Russian costume. Now, I suggest you, based on the knowledge you have gained, do practical work.

IV. Practical work

Draw sketches of Russian folk costume. Make an applique according to the sketch you made using colored paper, scraps of fabric, beads, braid, etc.

V. Summing up and analyzing the lesson

– What new did you learn in class today? What do you remember most? Let's see your work and see what you came up with.

Exhibition of student works. Determining the best works. Grading.

Russian folk clothing has a long history, it has many similarities with the things worn by the ancient Slavs. The appearance of the Russian costume corresponded to the way of life of the people and their geographical location. For example, in more southern regions, things were distinguished by their brightness; every element of the Russian wardrobe was thought out with great love. In the northern regions, clothing matched the difficult living conditions - darker and gloomier. Residents of mountainous regions richly decorated their costumes with protective embroidery, since many different dangers awaited people in the mountains. It was from those times that the saying “one is greeted by his clothes...” came into being, since by the elements of decoration of clothes one could guess not only the origin of a person, but his social and marital status.

Dresses of the ancient Slavs and their features

The first Slavic elements of clothing were made of leather and fur; this was the only readily available material in ancient times. In those days, the status of the owner could be determined by the type of skins used:

• Ordinary community members wore things made from the skins of domestic animals;
• Warriors preferred clothing made from the skins of predators; wolf and bear skins with fur were especially popular;
• The clan nobility, leaders and princes dressed in the furs of fur-bearing animals.

Since the 6th century AD. The main materials for making Slavic clothing are flax and hemp. The poorest segments of the population wore gray clothes, the richer ones wore white, made from purified flax, since in those days the technology of dyeing fabrics was still unknown. In the XI-XIII centuries, it began to spread in Rus' wool fabric homespun or hair shirt. The appearance of multi-colored fabrics dates back to this time, as the Slavs began to actively trade with the Byzantine Empire. The costumes of the Eastern Slavs were distinguished by their quality and pretentiousness, this was influenced by the neighborhood with Rome, Greece and close ties with the Scandinavian region. Princes, nobles and warriors tried to dress in foreign silks.

The Slavic style of clothing can most easily be traced by female models, although archaeological excavations provide very scanty information on this matter, and one has to rely on drawings in written sources. The main element of the costume of ancient Slavic women (and men too) was a long shirt, often decorated with protective patterns and embroidery with folk motifs. Types of shirts:

• Holidays;
• Everyday;
• Wedding;
• Funeral;
• Mowing;
• Enchanted.

The first shirts were an ordinary piece of fabric, folded in half, with a hole for the head and a belt. Several centuries later they learned to sew sleeves.

Women's Slavic clothing decorated with Volkhov and oberezhnaya embroidery, patches made from patches and braid were often used. Traditional Russian sundresses began to be mentioned only in the 16th century; cuffs and bias collars appeared in the 17th century. With the advent of dyeing technology, red and about 30 of its shades became the main color. Children's Slavic clothing differed from adults only in embroidery and, as a rule, consisted of one shirt “to the toes.”

Thanks to excavations, Slavic jewelry is known throughout the world, in the manufacture of which local jewelers reached unprecedented heights, so even Greek jewelers often copied them. The most common:

• Temporal rings are a specific decoration of headdresses, attached near the temples. Worn by unmarried Slavic girls;
• Hryvnia is a neck hoop made of metal, most often bronze and silver. Scientists believe that these jewels carried deep meaning. sacred meaning, since often the hryvnia was not withdrawn throughout life. According to one version, gold and silver jewelry allowed to be worn only by representatives of the supreme nobility;
• Hoop earrings are large but light trinkets made of wire that could be woven;
• Pendants are large metal pendants that usually served as amulets;
• Bracelets are the most common Slavic jewelry, most often found during excavations, and are available for men and women;
• Rings various sizes and forms.

Features of Slavic national attire

With the emergence of principalities in the territory modern Russia, Ukraine and Belarus, the Slavic outfit began to be divided into characteristic features, characteristic of the Russian national costume:

• For its immediate purpose (everyday, mourning, wedding);
• By age (children, adults, for the elderly);
• By color scheme.

Embroidery with Slavic symbols was most often done with red thread. In the southern regions, various plant dyes are beginning to be used that can produce a wide range of colors:

• Red;
• Blue;
• Black;
• Brown;
• Yellow;
• Green.

Decorative patterns in the form of fir trees, bushes, and stylized figures of animals and women began to be used as decorations.

Russian women's traditional costume

The Russian women's costume differs significantly from the Slavic; new parts of the wardrobe appear:

• Aprons (they were also called curtains);
• Ponevy;
• Bibs;
• Sundresses;
• Shushpany.

Initially, only noble women wore the new elements; peasant women still made do with a simple shirt, which over time turned into a straight long dress. The shirt itself did not disappear, but became part of the lower clothing.

Only poor peasant women's Russian women's shirts were made from unbleached linen, and almost everyone had a white festive item with various embroideries and ornaments. Clothes for everyday life, decorated with ornaments with birds and animals, were considered especially chic. The designs could be up to 30 cm wide, and each part of the embroidery running along the bottom of the product was decorated with its own ornament.

Aprons were the most beautiful items of clothing worn by women. This part of the costume was made of thick canvas, decorated with embroidery with ornaments and silk ribbons. The edges of the curtain (apron) were decorated with thread fringes, multi-colored frills, and teeth made of red or white lace.

Sundresses began to be sewn in the northern Russian provinces, where they have been known since the 18th century. This outfit was made from plain canvas, calico, homespun wool or red dyeing. The monotony of this element of women's costume helped highlight the multi-colored colorful patterns on shirts and aprons.

Poneva – special type a skirt worn around the waist. It was made from 3-5 pieces of fabric, sewn together along the edges, the upper edge of the skirt was folded and fastened, leaving space inside for threading a gashnik belt. Worn primarily by married women, a girl could put on a poneva when she reached puberty or was betrothed.

Outerwear:

• Zapona - item women's wardrobe made of coarse colored canvas, not sewn on the sides and worn with a belt. It was always shorter than a shirt, with chips at the bottom;
• Soul warmer - a short thing with straps, like a sundress, worn over it. Was considered festive attire, made from expensive patterned fabrics, most often had a decorative border;
• Letnik is an overhead garment that only wealthy Russian women could afford. Main feature The flyer had wide sleeves and was richly decorated with pieces of velvet or satin, embroidered with pearls, gold or silver. The letnik had a beaver collar, often tinted black;
• Fur coat - winter variety letnika, characterized by narrow and long sleeves;
• Telogrea is the same fur coat, only it has a hinged coat and is equipped with buttons or ties.

Women's hats and shoes

The headdresses of the Russian national costume have much in common with the ancient ones Slavic traditions, it was from there that the custom of hiding the hair of married women and walking bareheaded for girls came from:

• Kokoshnik - worn by women only on holidays due to the fact that it was very heavy and expensive;
• Povoinik is a headdress for married women, with a red or white headdress worn over it;
• Crown;
• Bandage;
• Kika;
• Hat with fur trim.

For footwear, women wore bast shoes with onuchs and frills, ankle boots, cats, and boots. Expensive shoes decorated with red cloth or morocco.

Men's wardrobe items in Russia

Men's peasant clothing in Rus' was not much different from ancient Slavic national costumes, the main elements of which were:

• A shirt cut from several pieces of canvas. Work clothes had grey colour, and holiday shirts were made from bright fabric, red was often used. Most of the seams were decorated with red edging, and there were elements of protective embroidery. Every peasant could afford a simple shirt; the famous “kumachyovs” could only be afforded by a rich person. This basic element of Russian costume was worn untucked, with a narrow belt or cord tied over it;
• Portas are traditional Russian trousers, which were sewn not wide and narrowed at the ankles. They had a special lanyard that served as a belt. The fly was also tied with a special ribbon. From below, the ports were tucked into the onuchi, after which the bast shoes were put on. If a person had boots, then the boots were not wrapped. Beginning in the 17th century, rich peasants and most merchants began to wear cloth or silk trousers over their ports, often with lining;
• Zipun originated in the northern part of Russia and was widely used in spring and autumn. He represented outerwear semi-adjacent, widened silhouette, length reaching to the knee and below;
• Kaftans - clothing for the rich, were worn over a zipun. They could differ from each other not only in decoration, but also appearance, were divided into home, regular, and weekend. To decorate caftans, they used twisted cords, buttonholes, and buttons from precious metals and pearls.

Men's holiday clothes were often embroidered with red threads and braid; starting from the 16th century, other colors began to be widely used.

Men's traditional shoes

The most famous Russian national shoes are considered bast shoes. Most people think that they appeared during the times of the ancient pagan Slavs. In fact, the first written mention of bast shoes dates back to 985. The chronicle describes the case of an attack by Prince Vladimir of Kyiv on the Volga Bulgarians who found themselves wearing boots. The governor then told the prince that he needed to look for tributaries in bast shoes. From this we can conclude that in the 10th century bast shoes were worn by Krivichi, Radimichi and Dregovichi.

Another popular type ancient shoes there were pistons - leather boots, widespread throughout medieval Europe. There were pistons made from several pieces of leather, as well as shoes made from one piece of leather - “cherevichy foremans”. One came across sandal-type shoes in Rus', borrowed from Byzantium. During excavations, the remains of boots with hard soles and iron shoes are sometimes found.

Warriors and rich people in Rus' wore two types of ankle boots: soft ones with an extended top and sole, and boots of a complex cut with a back, shaft, head and sole. As for the world-famous felt boots, they appeared only in the 18th century in Siberia, spreading in the 19th century to the central provinces of Russia and becoming a favorite winter shoes peasants

Modern clothes in Slavic style

Now Russian folk trends in fashion are very popular all over the world. Of course, sundresses, kokoshniks and long braids almost no one wears it, but the flavor of the traditional Russian costume is used in the collections of many fashion designers. If men's clothing is limited to shirts with embroidery and belts, then women's fashion widely represented:

• Fur coats made of natural and artificial fur of straight cut are in small but stable demand. They have long sleeves with cuffs, a turn-down collar and a belt at the waist;
• Coat of natural fabric has nothing in common with the Russian women's national costume, but thanks to embroidered patterns in the Slavic style and the fur trim of the collar and cuffs looks harmonious;
• Long dresses and maxi skirts in contrasting shades are often worn with Russian-style winter fur clothing.

For women who are not ready to radically change their appearance, there are secrets to giving the image a Russian style based on casual wear, for this it is enough to use various accessories. You can throw a painted Pavlovo Posad scarf over your head, fur hat classical round shape will also add traditional Russian features to the female image.

All kinds of capes, vests, and warmer jackets trimmed with fur will help create a Russian look. Now many fashion designers are doing summer collections modern dresses and skirts designed in ethno-style or having traditionally Russian trim.

The development of Russian folk costume has a rich and long history; its components were formed in the pre-Christian era, in close connection with the architecture of Rus' and pagan beliefs.

Description of Russian folk costume

Women's Russian national costume is much more interesting and richer than men's, because a woman's appearance contains people's ideas about femininity, beauty, and family values. In ancient times in Rus', costume was one of the manifestations of folk applied arts and crafts.

The main elements of Russian folk costume were formed in Ancient Rus'. The main costume was a long, straight-cut “shirt,” which was made from homespun fabric, with wide sleeves. Usually, a woman wore more than one such shirt (at least one more acted as underwear).

The clothing of a Russian peasant woman consisted of a shirt like this, decorated with embroidery, which in Russian folk costume was usually placed on the sleeves, hem and shoulders. A plain sundress and an apron were worn on top. The peasant costume was prepared with great diligence, usually in connection with labor holidays - harvesting, haymaking, and pasturing cattle.

Details of Russian folk costume

The sundress is one of the main details of the Russian folk costume for women. The elegant version was worn complete with a shirt, an apron, and a belt. Each locality had its own style of sundress, and the patterns on it, like on other versions of Russian folk costumes, have their own characteristics. In the southern part of Russia, preference was given to red, which had many different shades. Embroidery on sundresses was done with gold threads and pearls.

The most common headdress of women's Russian folk costume was the kokoshnik - a thick cap of various shapes, usually lavishly decorated with embroidery and stones.

The girls wore hoops (soft or hard) made of multi-colored ribbons. If unmarried girls could wear one braid or braided hair, then married ladies had to braid 2 braids and always wore a headdress.

The beauty and pristine, originality and chastity of the Russian folk costume is reflected in the modern world, so elements of costumes in the Russian folk style have recently been very relevant in the global fashion industry and are increasingly appearing on fashion catwalks.

Dresses in Rus' have always been famous for their rich color scheme and patterns. Headdresses were mandatory in the image. The main shapes of the costume were trapezoidal and straight.

By the costume one could judge which province, district or village the girl was from. Each type of clothing in Rus' had its own meaning. There were everyday, festive, wedding, and mourning costumes. Red clothes were considered the most solemn. At that time, the meaning of the words “beautiful” and “red” basically had the same meaning.

In Rus', all outfits were made from homespun fabrics, but from the middle of the 20th century they began to be replaced by factory-made fabrics, the fashion for which came from Europe with the advent of Peter I.

What does a traditional Russian folk costume look like?

Northern Russian folk costume has some differences from the southern costume. In the north it was customary to wear a sundress, in the south it was customary to wear a sundress.

The cut of the women's shirt was similar to the men's. It was straight and had long sleeves. It was customary to decorate a shirt with patterns along the sleeves, along the bottom of the sleeves, at the shoulder and at the bottom of the product.

Despite the European fashion that spread so quickly, the northerners retained some traditions of Russian folk costume. The so-called “epanechki” and dushegrei were preserved. They had sleeves and were quilted with cotton wool. Besides the sundress northern costume He was also distinguished by a brocade shirt, that same “epanechka” and an elegant kokoshnik.

In the south, poneva was used instead of a sundress. This waist garment was made of wool with a canvas lining. Poneva, as a rule, was blue, black or red. Striped or checkered fabric was also widely used. Everyday ponevs were finished off quite modestly - with homespun woolen patterned braid.

Poneva did not highlight the female figure, but rather concealed all her majesty and beauty due to her straight silhouette. If the poneva outlined the waist, it was hidden with the help of an apron or a shirt. Often a bib was worn over the shirt, blanket and apron.

In general, the traditional Russian folk costume was multi-layered. As for the headdress, there were also rules for wearing them. Married women had to completely hide their hair; girls were allowed not to cover their heads at all. To an unmarried girl It was enough to put on a ribbon or hoop. Kokoshniks and “magpies” were widespread.

The girl in Russian folk costume always looked beautiful and majestic. Its bright, feminine image she accessorized with beads, earrings, various necklaces and pendants.

On the feet of Russian beauties one could see leather boots, cats, as well as the famous bast shoes.

Skirt and apron in Russian folk costume

This item of women's clothing appeared in Rus' much later than the Poneva. Poneva was distinguished by the fact that its panels were not sewn together, but the skirt was sewn together and gathered at the waist into a belt. The skirt had a special meaning in the status of a woman. Married girls It was allowed to wear a skirt that exposed the feet. Married woman always covered my heels. Fat woman in Rus' - it was considered a symbol of health and prosperity, so many girls often wore several skirts on holidays to appear more voluminous. An apron in Russian folk costume also played important role. Originally, he covered his dress while working. Then the apron became part of the Russian folk festive costume. In this case, it was sewn from white linen or cotton fabric. The apron was always decorated with luxurious ribbons and embroidery.

Russian folk costume

Without exaggeration, folk costume can be called the most striking and original element of any culture. By its cut and finishing features one can judge the way of life, traditions, historical and social processes of past centuries. And perhaps no other country in the world has such a breadth of images and colorful folk costumes as in Russia.

History of Russian folk costume

Folk costume, women's in particular, did not have a single established form for all residents of Russia. Even within different provinces, the composition and cut of the suit, color and fabric differed. In the northern and central regions, women predominantly wore sundresses, and in the southern regions - ponevu. Considering these two historically established types of clothing, we can make a somewhat generalized description of the women's folk costume of Russia. So the sundress came to Russia from Persia (translated from Persian as a garment of honor) and for the first time it was worn by the wife of Ivan the Terrible, Queen Sophia. Later, it (the sundress) fell in love with the common people. The sundress could be on a yoke, straight or slanted. Underneath they wore a shirt made of bleached canvas. IN summer time on top of the sundress they could wear another wide, small sundress - letnik or a short one, epanechka. In cool weather they wore a soul warmer. A headdress was required - kokoshnik, kichka, magpie and others. Girls could wear a simple ribbon or headband. The folk costume of the south of Russia is represented by a more ancient type of clothing - poneva - a swinging skirt made of three, sometimes five, unsewn panels, which was held on by a special braid - gashnik. As a rule, it was sewn from wool blend fabric in a checkered pattern and richly decorated with braid, ribbons, embroidery, and buttons. By the cells and color of the poneva fabric, it was possible to determine not only the province or district, but even the village in which the woman lived. And also her status - married or widow, for what occasion these clothes are worn. Poneva was worn on a shirt with embroidered sleeves and hem.

An indispensable attribute of clothing was an apron, which was also decorated in different ways, especially for festive occasions. Embroidered, printed or woven patterns and ornaments were used as decoration. They carried certain symbolism: a circle - the sun, a square - a sown field, and so on. Ornaments in Russian folk costume also served as a kind of amulet against evil forces and were embroidered where the clothes ended and touched the open body - on the collar, cuffs and hem. Patterns in Russian folk costume were made using wool, linen, and silk threads, which were dyed natural dyes in blue, black, less often brown, green and yellow colors. White achieved by bleaching. But the predominant color in the folk costume of Russian women was red - the color of fire and sun. It was believed that this color repels dark forces. Special attention They also paid attention to jewelry - rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings. They also served as a certain kind of amulet, a talisman against evil spirits and the evil eye.

Folk costumes of the peoples of Russia

Russia is a huge state. In addition to the most numerous people - the Russians, other, more or less numerous peoples lived on its territory. And each of them had his own suit with original patterns and sewing techniques. The climate and lifestyle of certain regions also left their mark. Thus, the peoples of Siberia, who were mainly engaged in reindeer husbandry, hunting, and fishing, used animal skins - elk, deer, and seals - to make clothes. Clothes, as a rule, were sewn in the form of overalls or a long fur shirt with a hood and were designed to provide maximum protection from the cold. But in the North Caucasus and the Don, women wore dresses with a cap and trousers similar to Turkish ones.