Simulation of a dropped shoulder without sleeves. Dress pattern with one-piece sleeves: modeling and sewing

Summer dress pattern with sleeves

The length of the dress from the waist is about 60 cm. To model the front half of the dress, close the chest dart and move it to the armhole. Deepen the front neckline by 1-2 cm. Extend the shoulder length by 29 cm and draw a line for the bottom of the sleeve with the cuff at a right angle. Increase on cuff and hem 10 cm (finished cuff width 5 cm). Round the sleeve towards the side line.

From the waist line, set aside 5 cm upward and draw a horizontal line. Cut the pattern along the red lines, shorten the middle part of the set-in waistband to the depth of the waist dart.

Model the back of the dress as shown in Fig. 2. To deepen the armhole line, cut the back horizontally and spread it 1-2 cm. Deepen the neckline by 20 cm and 1-2 cm along the shoulder line, draw a neckline. Copy the sleeve configuration from the pattern of the front half of the dress. Model the set-in part of the belt similarly to the front half. Additionally, model a slot 8 cm wide (4 cm in finished form) and 0.33 times the length of the skirt.

Separately, place on paper the hem facings for the front and back necklines, 4 cm wide.

How to cut a dress

To sew a dress you will need 1.7 m of satin 145 cm wide, a hidden zipper 50 cm long, and sewing thread.

Cut out the details of the dress with seam allowances of 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the dress and sleeves - 4 cm.

Another hot topic of the season: long one-piece sleeve.

Having mastered this technique, you can easily model different styles of clothes with one-piece sleeves, regardless of the season, type of fabric, etc., guided only by your desires or goals.

When designing a long one-piece sleeve, the angle of inclination of the upper cut is of great importance.

With a slight slope or its complete absence, when the upper line of the sleeve runs horizontally (at a right angle to the lines of the middle back and front), the bodice of the product will have a fairly large volume, a softer shape with slack in the armhole area.

With a large slope of the upper cut of the sleeve, the bodice will have a strict, clear shape in the shoulder and armhole area. Freedom of movement in this case is ensured by the gusset, cut-off barrel, and other design techniques, which we will consider in the following articles.

The width of the sleeve in this design is directly dependent on the angle of inclination of the upper cut and the depth of the armhole. The widest sleeve can be obtained with a minimum angle of inclination of the upper cut and a deepened armhole.

In this article we will look at one of the options for designing a bodice with long one-piece sleeve without gusset (kimono), in which the upper cut is a continuation of the shoulder line.

This design is based on a drawing of a pattern for the base of a dress with a semi-fitting silhouette. If it is necessary to achieve a looser fit, you can increase the allowance for a loose fit by distributing it evenly between sections of the base mesh (back, armhole and front).

If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, you will need this drawing in the future when mastering the modeling of various types and styles of clothing.

Let's copy the back and front of the bodice of the dress onto a blank sheet of paper. There is no need to transfer all letters and auxiliary lines. Copy only those letters and lines that will participate in the construction. Look at our drawing and the situation will become clearer.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of a one-piece sleeve, it is necessary to fulfill the main condition:

To do this, draw a line from point G4 down to the intersection with the waist line. Together with the side line, we transfer the side dart, as shown in Fig. 2.

In our drawing, point G4 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole. If you are using a base constructed using a different method, divide the width of the armhole in half and draw a vertical line from the division point, thus creating a new side bodice line.

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And one more important note. When designing a soft bodice shape with a long one-piece sleeve, and this is exactly our case, the size of the side dart opening must be reduced to 1.5 cm in each direction. That is, the distance T2T3 = T2T4 = 1.5 cm.
We adjust the tuck solution. See fig. 3.

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Note:
Darts on the waistline of the back and front can be reduced, replaced with gathers or tucks (in accordance with the style of the product).
In products with straight, free shapes, darts at the waist may be completely absent.

Back

To provide additional freedom, we move the line of the shoulder and neck of the back up as follows:
From point A we set aside 0.5 cm upward and place point A11;
From points A4, O and O3 we set aside 0.7 cm upward and place points A41, O11 and O31, respectively;
From point P1 upward we set aside 1.5 cm and place point P11.

These values ​​may fluctuate slightly in one direction or another depending on the tasks set, the type of product, the fabric used and other factors. We use as an example the values ​​most often used in our practice.

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We connect points A11 and A41 with a smooth curve, thereby obtaining a new germ line.

We connect sections A41 O11 and O31 P11 with straight lines, continuing the shoulder cut to the right at a distance equal to the sleeve length measurement. In our example, the sleeve length is 58cm.

Thus, we set aside 58 cm from point P11, and you set aside your sleeve length measurement, and put point C.

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Note:
1. The dart at the back shoulder line can be reduced or completely absent.
2. If the model includes shoulder pads, the shoulder section is additionally raised according to the thickness of the shoulder pad.

The width of the sleeve is determined by the model (style) of the product. If you sew for yourself, the width of the sleeve will depend only on your desire. If you sew for your client, you will have to listen to his wishes.

From point C down at a right angle to the upper cut of the sleeve, draw a straight line, on which we set aside the width of the sleeve plus 2 cm and place point C1.
CC1 = Shr: 2 + 2cm = 36: 2 + 2 = 20cm, and you make the calculation based on your data.

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We draw segment CC1 with a smooth curve. To do this, divide the distance CC1 in half, set point C2, from which we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm to the right. Smoothly connecting points C, C2 and C1 we get a line for the bottom of the sleeve.

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From point C1 to the left, parallel to the upper cut (for a straight sleeve), draw an auxiliary line until it intersects with the side cut. We denote the intersection point with the letter C3.

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IMPORTANT! In this design, the distance G4S3 should not be less than 3 cm. If in your case this distance is less than 3 cm, you need to lower point C3 lower along the side cut to the required value.

Note.
Point C3 can be located anywhere on the side cut of the bodice, even at the waist line.
In our example, the sleeve is straight, so line C1C3 runs parallel to the top cut.

We continue building.
To the right and down from point C3 we set aside a distance equal to the segment Г4С3 and place points 1 and 2. See Fig. 9. This construction can be conveniently done using a compass, using a point C3 as radius.

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We finalize the line of the lower cut of the sleeve and the side line of the bodice with a deflection between points 1 and 2. See fig. 10. In this area, after cutting, it is done guy.

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If the product is cut along the waistline, in this case, to ensure freedom of movement, it is necessary to lengthen the side cut of the bodice by about 1-1.5 cm. This is done as follows. From point T3 downwards on the continuation of the lateral line we set aside 1-1.5 cm and place point T31. We draw the waist line with a smooth curve, connecting points T31 and T.

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Shelf.

We reduce the opening of the chest dart by 2 cm. We use a compass to construct it. From point G7, as from the center, through point B9 to the right we draw an arc. Then we place the leg of the compass at point B9 and with a radius equal to 2 cm we make a notch on this arc, denoting the intersection point with the letter B91. We connect points G7, B91 and get a new dart line.

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Now we reduce the shoulder line by the same distance (2cm). To do this, from point P5 to the right along the shoulder line, set aside 2 cm and put the letter P51. We connect points P51 and B91 with a straight line. We connect points P51 and P6 with a smooth curve.

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For further construction, we will close the chest dart (for the duration of construction) and open it at point B3. You can open it in another place, for example, in a dart at the waistline (this is not important).

To do this, connect points G7 and B3 with a straight line, cut the front along this line and close the chest dart, combining points B91 and B7, and at the same time open the dart along line V3G7. See fig. 14.

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We raise the edge of the shoulder up by 1 cm. To do this, from point P51 up on the continuation of the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and place point P52.

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We connect points B3 and P52 with a straight line, continuing the shoulder cut to the left at a distance equal to the sleeve length measurement and place point C4. In our example, the sleeve length is 58cm.

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From point C4 down at a right angle to the upper cut of the sleeve, draw a straight line, on which we set aside the width of the sleeve minus 2 cm. and put point C5.

In our example, the sleeve width is 36cm.

С4С5 = Шр: 2 - 2cm = 36: 2 - 2 = 16cm You make the calculation based on your data.

We shape the segment C4C5 with a smooth curve. To do this, divide the distance C4C5 in half, put a point C6, from which we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm to the right. Smoothly connecting points C4, C6 and C5 we get the line for the bottom of the front sleeve.

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I would like to draw your attention to the difference in the design of the sleeve hem line on the back and on the front.
If on the back, using the smoothness of the line of the bottom of the sleeve (section CC1), we added 0.5-0.7 cm, then on the front, on the contrary, we “cut off” the same amount, forming a concavity of the line of the bottom of the sleeve (section C4C5).

See fig. 7 (back), fig. 17 (shelf).

From point G4 down the side line of the shelf we set aside a distance equal to the segment G4C3 on the back drawing and put point C7.

We connect points C5 and C7 with a straight line.

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For the next step we will use a compass. From point C7, as from the center, with a radius equal to the distance C7G4, we make marks on the lower cut of the sleeve and on the side cut of the shelf. We denote the intersection points as 3 and 4, respectively.

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In this design, the line of the lower cut of the sleeve smoothly transitions into the line of the side cut of the bodice.
We finalize the line of the lower cut of the sleeve and the side line of the bodice with a deflection between points 3 and 4. Look at Figure 20. In this section, after cutting, we make guy.

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Note.
Point C7 can be located anywhere on the side cut of the bodice, even at the waistline. The main thing is that it corresponds to the position of point C3 on the back.

IMPORTANT!
Before you start cutting the fabric, you need to check the length of the lower sections of the front and back parts of the sleeve for consistency and, if necessary, adjust. The lower cut of the front part of the bodice can be 1-2 cm shorter, this difference is compensated for by the drawstring.

We return the chest dart to its original position. See Fig. 21.

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Note:
The chest dart in this design can be reduced.
If you are creating a pattern for a figure with a small chest volume (in products up to size 48), the chest dart may be completely absent.

I remind you:
If the product is cut along the waistline, in this case, to ensure freedom of movement, it is necessary to lengthen the side cut of the bodice by about 1-1.5 cm, similar to the back. This is done as follows. From point T4 downwards on the continuation of the lateral line we set aside 1-1.5 cm, put point T41. We form the waist line with a smooth curve, connecting points T41 and T5.

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At this point, the construction of a long one-piece sleeve can be considered complete. All that remains is to add a few comments, using which you can expand the number of bodice options on the same basis.

If you need pattern tapered sleeves, this can be done by moving the lines of the upper and lower cuts as follows. From point C2 up and down we set aside ¼ of the width of the narrow sleeve. For example, if the finished width of a tapered sleeve is 24 cm, then we set aside 6 cm from point C2 (24: 4 = 6 cm). Let us denote the resulting points by the letters Y and Y1, and connect point Y with the shoulder point P11, and point Y1 with point 2.

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In the same way we build a narrowed sleeve on the shelf.

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Now that's ALL! The construction is complete.

The resulting drawing can be used as the basis of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve for further modeling. Using methods known to you, you can use it to create a wide variety of styles of blouses, dresses, dressing gowns, etc. For example, using various options for moving the chest dart, etc.

Figure 25 shows two more options for different positions of the lower section of the sleeve. Only the back part is shown here; on the shelf, the lower cut is constructed in a similar way. If necessary, you can easily handle this yourself.

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This is just an example. Based on your goals and desires. Don't be afraid to experiment, but remember, the risk should always be worth it. Check the pattern and only after making sure that this is what you were aiming for, start cutting.

Cutting details

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There are other ways and techniques for constructing a long, one-piece sleeve. We will talk about them in our next articles.

You will succeed!

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A dress with sleeves can be worn at any time of the year. In winter, the sleeve warms, in summer it protects delicate skin from the scorching sun. Sleeve styles can be different; a correctly selected style allows you to hide some figure flaws.

The classic solution is a dress with one-piece sleeves. This style is distinguished by its simplicity in execution and comfort to wear, so it has not gone out of fashion for several centuries.

In the history of fashion, dress styles without an armhole line have been known since ancient times. After all, this is one of the simplest cut options.

The very first models were probably tunics, which were worn in ancient times. The sleeve, which represents a single whole with the main details of the outfit, was also used when sewing traditional Russian shirts worn under sundresses and letniki.

The modern history of the full sleeve dress begins in the twentieth century. At this time, a sleeve of this style either became fashionable or temporarily “lost ground.” Thus, in the middle of the last century, the O-shaped silhouette was very popular, and a sleeve without a clearly defined armhole line made it possible to smooth out sharp lines, giving the shoulder line softness.

In the 70-80s, the “bat” style gained incredible popularity. This name was given to the cut of the sleeve, which was very wide at the base and tapered towards the wrist. In the 80s, such dresses were worn with shoulder pads, as a wide shoulder line was fashionable at that time.

Nowadays, options for one-piece sleeves can be found in models for a wide variety of purposes - from business dresses to evening models.

What style is this?

Photos of models of dresses with one-piece sleeves can be seen in the collections of the most fashionable designers, that is, the model is in trend.

But first you need to figure out what the features of this part are. When sewing models, the detail of the back of the dress is a single piece with the back of the sleeve, and the details of the bodice, accordingly, are cut out simultaneously with the front part. That is, in the outfits there is no seam along the armhole line, due to which the silhouette takes on a softer outline.

In clothes with sleeves of this style, the shoulder lines do not have a sharp transition, so the silhouette is rounded. In addition, the free sleeve is very comfortable, it allows you to move your arm freely, so clothes of this cut are very comfortable to wear.

Sleeve models can look different. It can have different widths, and its length can also be varied as desired. Summer outfits are often sewn with sleeves that barely cover the shoulders. Clothes with sleeves reaching the elbow or longer are popular.

Who is it suitable for?

It is necessary to purchase any outfits taking into account the characteristics of your figure. Let's figure out who suits dresses without a clearly defined armhole line, and who should avoid such styles.

A sleeve of this style rounds the shoulder line, making the silhouette softer, so this option is perfect:

• for skinny girls if they would like to hide too bony shoulders, thin arms and look more seductive;

• slender fashionistas such models are recommended for the reason that they are very comfortable and do not restrict movement;

• broad-shouldered ladies a loose sleeve is ideal, since in such models there is no pronounced transition from shoulder to sleeve;

• for those with massive hips a loose sleeve will help make your figure more harmonious, adding visual volume at the top. In this case, it is additionally recommended to use draperies to decorate the bodice of the dress;

• if you are slightly overweight, then a dress of a semi-fitting silhouette with wide one-piece sleeves will help hide existing flaws. Keep in mind that outfits of this style make your figure look more squat, so be sure to wear heeled shoes with your dress.

Using a sleeve, you can successfully emphasize the grace of your hands or hide the imperfections of this part of the body. You just need to choose the right sleeve length.

If your arms are beautiful and your shoulder line is wide, then a dress with short one-piece sleeves will successfully correct this deficiency. In plump ladies, as a rule, the upper part of the arm does not look very beautiful. Therefore, a one-piece sleeve up to the elbow or three-quarter length is ideal for them. Similar recommendations can be given to girls whose arms are too thin.

However, a sleeve of this style is not suitable for all fashionistas; in some cases, such a choice will not decorate the figure.

Ladies who are overweight are not recommended to wear a type of dress with wide, loose sleeves. The dress will visually round out the silhouette, so the figure will look even more massive.

Ladies with a large bust, as well as chubby fashionistas, should not wear models that visually round their shoulders. With this body type, dresses with soft lines will visually add pounds.

Fashion models

A one-piece sleeve is a universal piece that suits almost everyone. It fits perfectly into a business look, that is, it is used in dresses for the office. But you can often find models designed for free time or for a special occasion.

For free time

An excellent choice of clothing for every day are dresses. These clothes are suitable for any season.

In summer, a dress with one-piece short sleeves can be a basic wardrobe item. On hot days it is worn without additions, and on a cool evening you can wear a denim jacket or jacket with the dress.

Comfortable clothing for every day is a shirt dress with one-piece sleeves. The outfit can be worn solo, highlighting the waistline with a belt. And if the dress is short, then you should pair it with leggings or shorts.

A summer fashion favorite is a tunic with one-piece sleeves of varying lengths. These are very comfortable clothes without darts. Thanks to this cut, the silhouette is free and flowing.. For sewing tunics, light, well-draped fabrics are used; knitted tunics are very popular. Like a shirtdress, a tunic can be worn with trousers of various styles or narrow skirts.

To create images in ethnic style, a linen shirt dress will be useful. This model has the simplest cut, it has only two seams - shoulder and side. To decorate the model, embroidery with ethnic motifs, woven or embroidered belts are used. To complement the ensemble, it is recommended to use wooden decorations.

Office models

Business dress of a straight silhouette with one-piece sleeves is a classic of office fashion. The sleeve in such models is made narrow. And to make the dress comfortable to wear, the sleeves are complemented with a gusset. This is a special insert necessary to ensure free movement of the hand; it has the shape of a rhombus or triangle.

Another option for office wear is an a-line dress with one-piece sleeves. Unlike a straight dress, this outfit is looser, so it is recommended for overweight girls who need to hide their protruding belly and blurred waist.

The length of office dresses, as a rule, reaches the knee, since models that are too short and floor-length dresses will be inappropriate in a business look.

Evening models

Often fashionistas choose an evening dress with one-piece sleeves. Such models can look different. Thus, dresses with batwing sleeves and draping in the bust area are recommended for those with a pear-shaped figure; this cut will balance the figure, adding volume in the upper part.

Evening straight dress with one-piece sleeves - the choice of elegant ladies. To sew this simple model, you should choose beautiful textured fabrics.

A spectacular long dress with one-piece sleeves can be sewn completely closed. It is worth decorating it with a “swing” neckline and beautiful draperies. Bold fashionistas may prefer a model that is closed in the front, but with a deep cutout in the back. Long straight dresses made of light fabrics with batwing sleeves look charming; in this outfit, fashionistas will look like a fairy-tale butterfly.

It is very important for every woman to be unique and unique. You can see that a significant part of branded clothing is cut according to the simplest patterns. Models of dresses with one-piece sleeves can be found in the latest collections of fashion designers.

Making a choice between purchasing an expensive dress and making items are individually tailored, many will prefer the second option. A dress like this roya is ideal for any figure. It is not difficult to create a basic pattern for such a model, cut it out and sew it with your own hands and even beginner craftswomen without experience can do it.

Let's figure out what a one-piece is. The concept of “one-piece” is closely related to the characteristics of the cut. Modeling such a sleeve occurs in this way. A model of such a sleeve is made by cutting out the front and back along with the part, so there is no seam as such. The shoulder line with this cut is smooth, devoid of the angularity characteristic of models with sewn-in details. Thanks to this cut, the resulting dress model acquires soft and feminine silhouette. Dresses with lowered sleeves look very beautiful and feminine. A dress with a one-piece silhouette allows you to hide the imperfections of a full figure and does not allow you to clearly determine the end of the shoulder line.

A one-piece sleeve can have different widths and lengths. Thus, summer tunics are sewn with barely covering the shoulders. Dresses for the office, long evening dresses can be up to the elbow or more. The jacket often has three-quarter length sleeves. Dress models made with your own hands, can be fitted, semi-fitted or straight silhouette.

An interesting option for a one-piece sleeve is raglan. It’s interesting that a sleeve without a seam was invented not for fashionable ladies, but for military needs. Raglan was invented during the Crimean War and was used when sewing uniforms for the military in order to protect them during rain; for this purpose, raglan in military uniform was cut without a shoulder seam. When cutting this option, the sleeve is cut out along with the shoulder part and sewn to the neckline. Features of this cut include the presence of an open armhole, the possible absence of a shoulder seam, and a deepened armhole. There may be a dart at the shoulder seam, and there may be a top seam.

What to consider when cutting

We can say that a one-piece sleeve is suitable for most body types, no matter whether clothes with such a sleeve are made for size 48 or 60. It looks great in a business look, models for a formal appearance, presenting the possibility of creating your own style. With this cut you can successfully highlight the beauty of your hands or hide their imperfections. To do this, you need to choose the right sleeve length. There are the following Recommendations for choosing the right model:

• a short one-piece sleeve suits women with narrow shoulders and graceful arm lines;
• sleeve length up to the elbow and is more suitable for women with full arms, as it allows you to hide imperfections in the upper part of the arms;
• a three-quarter length sleeve is ideal for well-trained representatives of the fair sex, as it allows hide overly inflated arms.

There are figures for which this style is not recommended, as it makes the figure even looser and visually adds volume in problem areas. Dresses with full sleeves are not recommended for wearers the following features of the figures:

• women with an apple-shaped figure;
• very plump women with wide round faces;
• women with very large bust sizes.

Long sleeve dress pattern

To build a one-piece sleeve, the following tools are needed:

• scissors;
• paper for creating a pattern;
• measuring tape;
• pencil and ruler;
• a felt-tip pen for fabric, instead of which soap or chalk can also be used.

We consistently build the pattern:

1. We reduce the darts, thereby lengthening the front armhole by a centimeter. In this case, the back armhole is lengthened by two centimeters.
2. To obtain a pattern, draw perpendicular lines through the obtained points. Near the armhole, raise the shoulder line by 5 mm in front and 7 mm from the back. We set aside a distance of at least 7 cm from the edge of the shoulder. We increase the neckline from the back.
3. At an angle of 90 degrees we draw cut lines for the sleeves. Form a line for the bottom of the sleeve.
4. We connect the lower cut with a smooth arc to the waist.

There are various variations of models of straight one-piece dresses. Having mastered the construction principle, you can model and build:

• pattern for a straight-cut dress with short sleeves;
• pattern for a straight-cut dress with long sleeves;
• easy to sew kimono dresses;
• pattern of a tunic with a one-piece sleeve of various lengths;
• bat style dresses.

The principle of construction of each of the models is simple and very similar, but there are a number of features. When designing a pattern for a long one-piece sleeve, the angle of inclination of the upper cut is of great importance:

• with a slight tilt, the bodice of the future product will have a fairly large volume;
• with a large slope, the bodice of the future product will have a clear and strict shape in the shoulder and armhole area.

Depending on the angle of inclination, the width of the sleeve is selected. If you want to get a wide sleeve, you need to choose the minimum slope of the upper cut and the deepening of the armhole. In the batwing style, when constructing the pattern, the armhole is extended to the waist or hip line, so that it practically forms a semicircle.

Particular attention must be paid to the correct choice of fabric for sewing the future product. When sewing a tunic with a one-piece sleeve according to a pattern, the most suitable choice would be to choose a soft, easily draped fabric. When choosing a kimono dress, the pattern should take into account the material from which the future model will be made. The fabric should be soft, light and, to add chic to the future product, it should have a rich palette of colors. When choosing a material for sewing, it is necessary to take into account its characteristics. When choosing knitwear, pay attention to the following nuances:

• When cutting a knitted fabric, the fabric should not be stretched too much, otherwise the product being manufactured will be severely deformed;
• it is necessary to take into account possible shrinkage after washing;
• Before cutting, the material must be ironed; however, you cannot use an iron without an ironing iron, otherwise the material will become shiny.

Of course, every woman wants her outfit to look perfect and unique, so many people wear clothes that they sew themselves. It is believed that the pattern of a dress with a one-piece sleeve is the simplest, because this style does not have strict lines. Any clothing with such a sleeve looks feminine and elegant. How to make such a pattern with your own hands? Let's look at a few models.

Pattern of a straight dress with one-piece sleeves: master class

The main secret of a one-piece sleeve is that it needs to be cut out simultaneously with the back, as well as the front of the entire dress.

Necessary materials:

• scissors;
• paper or old wallpaper for patterns;
• pencil;
• centimeter for taking measurements;
• chalk or a piece of dry soap.

Construction of a dress pattern with a one-piece sleeve:

This creates a sheath dress pattern, and all that remains is to cut out the drawn elements, and then transfer them to the fabric and sew them.

When creating this pattern, you need the same materials that are used in the previous model.

The procedure for constructing a pattern:

1. To get a dress pattern with a bat sleeve, you must first draw the top part of the outfit, and then increase it to the desired length of the product. When creating a pattern, you must mark the entire length of the product.
2. Then you should check the width of the hip area. The width of the part itself should be a quarter of the circumference of the hips, to which 1 cm is added so that the product lies freely.
3. Mark the length of the sleeve. To do this, you need to start taking measurements from the neckline itself, ending with the bottom of the sleeve. Then mark the desired size on the pattern itself according to the measurements taken.
4. It remains to mark from the very bottom line of the cuffs, the length of which is approximately 15 cm. Then you need to draw another straight line parallel to the bottom line and you can start cutting out the finished pattern.

The principle of constructing patterns for different models of dresses with one-piece sleeves is similar, but, of course, there are still differences. If you want to sew a summer dress, you can use the following pattern, substituting your measurements.