One-piece turn-down collar. Flat one-piece collar

The process of making a dress, blouse, jacket or coat with a stand-up collar, cut in one piece with the back and shelves, is relatively complex and requires certain tailoring skills.

The fact is that creating a beautiful shape of a one-piece rack is difficult to achieve only by constructive means. It is advisable to have additional molding using stenciling and bracing. But not all fabrics containing synthetic fibers, which are widely used today, can be molded using WTO.

Therefore, first of all, you need to check whether the fabric chosen for sewing can be molded using WTO (wet heat treatment).

If the selected fabric is not amenable to WTO molding, then the collar should be designed on the drawing of the back and front with an extended neck. The excess width of the neck resulting from construction is taken into the darts along the neck.

Construction of a one-piece stand-up collar on an extended neck

Temporarily move the chest dart of the front to the waist line, and the shoulder dart of the back to the armhole.

For a small one-piece stand, widen the neck of the shelf and back along the shoulder line by 1.5 cm and deepen the neck of the back along the center line by 1 cm, the neck of the shelf by 1.5 cm. Draw a new neck line. On the back, the neckline is drawn at a right angle to the midline of the back.

Pattern drawing for a shelf with a one-piece stand

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf.

From the top of the new neck of the shelf, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line and mark the height of the stand on it, for example 2.5 cm (point C in Fig. 2a).

Draw a line for the top cut of the stand-up collar in accordance with the model, connecting point C to the side line. A right angle should be formed at point C. Make the transition from the side cut of the collar to the shoulder cut of the front with a smooth line (Fig. 2b).

Drawing of a backrest pattern with a one-piece stand

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the new back neckline.

From the top of the new back neck, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line and mark a height of 2.5 cm on it (point C1 in Fig. 3).

Extend the middle line of the back up and set the height of the stand along it 2.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 3.0 cm (point C2 in Fig. 3).

Draw a line for the top cut of the stand-up collar in accordance with the model, connecting point C1 to point C2. A right angle should be formed at point C2. Make the transition from the side cut of the collar to the shoulder cut of the back with a smooth line.

Find the middle of the upper cut of the back collar, draw a cut line to the end of the dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades, cut the pattern along this line (Fig. 3b).

Close the dart in the armhole, the dart will open towards the middle of the back collar (Fig. 3c).

After transferring the dart to the line of the top cut of the collar on the back, add 0.5 cm to each side of the dart, this will further lengthen the line of the top cut of the collar on the back (Fig. 3c). Shorten the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the back neck line.

The result should be a pattern, as in Figure 3d.

Is it possible to do without a tuck? It is possible without a dart, but then the collar will lag further behind the neck from the back. If this option suits you, please do it without a dart. But keep in mind that if the figure has a stoop or fat deposits in the area of ​​the 7th cervical vertebra, then the gap between the collar and the neck can be very significant.

In this article, I told you how to build a one-piece stand-up collar for a jacket, blouse or dress with a front clasp. But most often such a collar is used in boleros, which not only do not have a fastener, but do not even have a smell.

For such a bolero, you just need to draw the line of the top cut of the collar and the side line on the shelf in a different way, something like in the picture below.

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The collar is the decoration of any outfit. Blouses, shirts and even jackets would have a completely different look if there were no collars. They can change proportions, elongate the neck line and even become an accent of a designer piece. Our today's lesson is dedicated to the stand-up collar. This is one of the most popular elements in men's fashion, but it is no less popular among women. We invite you to learn how to design various options for stand-up collars. It’s very easy to create a pattern for any of these collars; you only need to take one measurement.

The stand-up collar is widely used when sewing both men's and women's blouses and shirts. It is very comfortable to wear and gently fits the neck. We offer you two options - with a cut-off and a one-piece stand. We emphasize that the width of the stand and the configuration of the collar are determined by the model and the designer.

Option 1. Turn-down collar with a cutting stand

Rice. Shirt collar with cut-off stand

To design a collar, take the Neck Length (with placket) measurement. Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm) (Fig. 1). From point C, set aside 3 cm upward (the width of the stand as measured) and draw a horizontal line C1D1.

Divide the CD in half (division points are indicated by crosses). From point D, set aside 0.5 cm upwards and to the right. From point D2, set aside 0.5 cm upwards. Draw a stand-up collar with a rounded upper corner.

Departure collar

From point A, set down 5 cm (the width of the collar). From point D, set aside DD1=1/2 of the width of the plank. From point D1, draw an auxiliary line upward and construct a flight collar configuration.

IMPORTANT! The width and configuration of the departure collar depends on the model and design solution.

Rice. 1. Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

Separately transfer the stand-up collar and the fly-away collar onto tracing paper and cut them out with seam allowances of 1.5 cm (Fig. 1a). The inner part of the stand and the outer part of the flight collar

Rice. 1a. Details of the cut of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

Option 2. Turn-down collar with a one-piece stand-up

Rice. Shirt collar with one-piece stand

Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm). From point C, set aside 2 cm, 3 cm (stand-up collar width), 4 cm (stand-up collar width) upward (Fig. 2).

Divide the CD in half and set aside 0.7 cm from the division point. Divide the right half of the collar in half. From point D, move 1 cm up and 0.5 cm to the right. Draw the bottom line of the collar as shown in Fig. 4.

From point 0.5, draw the short side of the stand-up collar, 2.4 cm long. Draw the top side of the stand-up collar parallel to the bottom side.

From point 0.5 (stand), set aside ½ of the width of the strip along the pattern to the left and draw an auxiliary line to side AB. From point B, move 1 cm to the left and draw the configuration of the take-off collar as shown in Fig. 2.

Rice. 2. Pattern of a shirt collar with a one-piece stand

Transfer the collar onto tracing paper and cut it out with seam allowances of 1.5 cm (Fig. 2a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with thermal fabric.

Rice. 2a. Layout on the fabric of a collar with a one-piece stand

Mandarin collar pattern

A stand-up collar that fits tightly to the neck without the usual fastening at the front is called a mandarin collar. In some cases, the collar may have a clasp, which is usually a loop that goes over a button on the stem. The edges of the collar can be rounded or straight, depending on the model. The height of such a collar can be from 4 to 5 cm. The collar owes its name to the traditional Chinese costume from which it was “copied” and worn by officials of Imperial China - mandarins. Subsequently, this name was assigned to this form of collar.

Rice. Mandarin collar

To create a collar pattern, use the pattern of the front and back of the product. Take measurements of the length of the front neck and back from the product pattern (between the control points and the collar stitchings).

Construct a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neck according to the pattern and a height of 6.5 cm (Fig. 3). From point C, set aside 4 cm upward (collar width may vary depending on the model), in our case CC1 = 4 cm. From point D, set aside 3 cm upward. Draw a slightly curved line for sewing in the collar. At right angles, draw the short side of the collar (D1B1) to the segment AB and the upper side of the collar B1C1 along the pattern or by hand.

Rice. 3. Mandarin collar pattern

Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 3a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with a gasket.

Rice. 3a. Layout of mandarin collar fabric

Tuxedo collar pattern

Another option for a stand-up collar for real ladies is the tuxedo collar. This collar is used to make blouses and shirts that are worn with a bow tie. Traditionally, the shirt is worn on formal occasions under a tuxedo, hence the name.

From the product pattern, take measurements of the length of the neck (with the strap). Draw a rectangle ABCD. AB = ½ length of the neck according to the pattern, AC = 7.5 cm. From point C, set aside the length of the back neck according to pattern CC2. From point C2, draw a short vertical auxiliary line upward. From point D, set DD1=1 cm up. Connect C2D1 as shown in Fig. 4.

Rice. Tuxedo Collar

Collar width CC1=3.5 cm. From point D, set aside 1.5 cm to the left (½ the width of the placket according to the pattern). BB1= 4.5 cm. Connect points 1.5 and 4.5. Place the segment DD1=2.5 cm at a right angle. Draw the outer edge of the collar according to the configuration in Fig. 4.

Rice. 4. Tuxedo collar pattern

Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 4a). Duplicate the inner part of the collar with a gasket.

Rice. 4a. Layout of tuxedo collar fabric

The one-piece collar consists of two parts. The lower part of one-piece collars is cut out together with the front, and the upper part with the edging (in edgings, an extension of 2.5-3 cm below the top loop is allowed). In shape, one-piece collars, like set-in collars, can be with a larger or smaller stand, tightly fitting to the neck or lagging behind.

Drawings are also made on the patterns of the front of the bodice. The exception is a one-piece stand-up collar, the drawing of which is made on the patterns of the back and front of the bodice.

1.One-piece stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

Back. Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 1 . R The line of the middle of the back is continued upward by 3-4 cm (stand height) and a dot is placedTrace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 1 A: A

= 3-4 cm Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - From point Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 2 :

the height of the stand on the shoulder is set upward vertically - it is equal to the height of the stand in the middle of the back minus 1 cm; put an end to it 2 = Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 1 A: RR

= 3-4 cm Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 2 - 1 = (3-4) - 1 = 2-3 cm Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - to the left horizontally and from the point

1 cm are laid upward vertically. Both points of 1 cm are connected with a smooth curve, continuing it to the shoulder section. Before . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter, IN . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 1 . lower - . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter Shoulder cut line from point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 2 :

continue to the right to the height of the counter and indicate 2 = BB

2-3 cm . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 2 upward at a right angle to the extended shoulder line, draw a segment equal to 1/2 the height of the stand; put an end to it . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3 .

. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 2 . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3 = (BB 2: 2) = (2-3) : 2 = 1-1.5 cm

Full stop . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3 connect with a smooth curve to a point IN. The height of the stand in the middle of the front is equal to its height along the shoulder section or is determined by the model. The upper cut of the collar can be brought to the depth of the neck - point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 1 , and if the front has a fastener, it is framed towards the edge of the side. Control points are marked at the highest points of the sprout and neck.

2.One-piece stand-up collar that lags behind the neck.
Back. The main back pattern is traced on a sheet of paper. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower -, lower - Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 1 . Expand the sprout by 1-3 cm (point R 2):

the height of the stand on the shoulder is set upward vertically - it is equal to the height of the stand in the middle of the back minus 1 cm; put an end to it 2 =1-3 cm

The middle line is continued upward by 6-8 cm (stand height) and a dot is placed The line of the middle of the back is continued upward by 3-4 cm (stand height) and a dot is placed

Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 1 A:= 6-8 cm

= 3-4 cm Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 2 upward vertically, the height of the stand along the shoulder is set equal to its height in the middle minus 1 cm; put an end to it A: 1 :

Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 2 A: 1 = (Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 1 A:- 1) = (6-8) - 1 = 5-7 cm

Points A: 1 And A: connected by a smooth concave curve. If the back has a seam, the line of the stand is extended to the left by 0.5 cm and the 0.5 cm point is connected under the ruler with the point Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 1 .

= 3-4 cm A: 1 set aside 0.5 cm to the left from the point Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 2 up vertically - 1 cm. Connecting the points 0.5 cm and 1 cm with a smooth concave curve, draw a line for the side cut of the rack. Control point - at the point R 2

A tuck is made halfway along the new sprout line. Its width is 1 cm, the length up and down from the sprout line corresponds to the height of the stand 6-8 cm.

1 cm are laid upward vertically. Both points of 1 cm are connected with a smooth curve, continuing it to the shoulder section.. Trace the main front pattern. The highest point of the neck is indicated by a dot IN, lowest . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 1 . If there is a fastener, give it a half-skid width of 2.5-3 cm to the middle of the front (point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 2 ). Expand the neck by 1-3 cm (point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3):

continue to the right to the height of the counter and indicate 3 =1-3 cm

= 3-4 cm . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3 draw a segment upward vertically equal to the height of the backrest at the shoulder seam; put an end to it AT 4:

. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3 . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 4 = Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - 2 A: 1 = 5-7 cm

= 3-4 cm AT 4 to the right horizontally set aside 2 cm, put a dot . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 5:

. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 4 B 5 = 2 cm

From point B 2 up along the extended line of the edge of the semi-skid, a segment equal to the height of the stand plus 1 cm is laid off; put an end to it . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 6:

. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 2 . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 6 = (. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3 . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 4 + 1) = (5-7)+ 1 = 6-8 cm

= 3-4 cm AT 6 2 cm are laid horizontally to the right (point B 7):

. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 6 . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 7 =2 cm

The top and side sections of the collar are decorated, connecting the points with smooth concave curves . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 5 And . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 7 ,IN 5 And . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3. Points . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 7 and . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 2 are connected under the ruler. Control point - at the point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 3 .

Darts are made for 1/3 of the length of the new neckline (excluding half-skid). Its opening is 1-1.5 cm, the length up and down from the neck line corresponds to the height of the stand 6-8 cm.

3. Stand-up collar.

. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter, lower - . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 1 .

Collar slope line.= 3-4 cm . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter 1 is laid along the line of the middle front 15-20 cm and the position of the upper loop is noted. A point 15-20 cm is connected to a point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter under the ruler and continue the line upward beyond the shoulder section.

The line of stitching into the sprout. . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter put upward a segment equal to 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 1 cm, and put a dot A::

AB= POSH: 3+1 = 18: 3 + 1 =7 cm

2-3 cm A: restore the perpendicular to the left, on which 1.5 cm is set aside (for a higher stand - 2-3 cm). Points 1.5 cm and B are connected by a slightly convex curve. Its length is compared with the length of the sprout and, if necessary, the line is extended upward.

Middle cut. 2-3 cm A: to the right, a perpendicular is restored, on which 8 cm is laid; put an end to it A: 1:

AA 1 =8 cm

Full stop A: 1 intersect with a line parallel to the line of inclination of the collar. On it from the point A: 1 put 2 cm up. Points 2 cm and A: connected by an auxiliary straight line.

= 3-4 cm A: along the auxiliary line lay 6-14 cm and put a dot A: 2 .

The entire width of the collar - a segment from a point of 1.5 cm to a point A: 2 is divided into 3 parts and the left division point is connected to the specified line of stitching into the sprout.

The take-off cut is made with a line perpendicular to the line of the middle cut (it can be straight or concave - according to the style). We will clarify the size and configuration of the departure in the figure. To do this, the pattern is cut out with allowances along the flap sections of 3-5 cm. The lower part of the collar is cut out on the fabric, also with an allowance to specify the size and configuration of the flap. The upper collar with a collar is cut out after fitting, when the configuration and size of the lower collar are specified.

The half-skid allowance (2.5 cm) is set aside from the top loop - a point of 15-20 cm.

When building shawl collar construction begins by connecting the starting point of the side flap with the top point of the shoulder cut and neckline.

This line is continued to the length of the back neckline. To obtain collars with varying degrees of fit to the neck, the deviation of the stitching line from the drawn straight line at the top point can be 1-4 cm towards the shoulder cut.

Having established the required amount of deviation of the smooth curve, draw a line for sewing the collar into the neck of the back. In the area corresponding to the back of the product, this line runs almost parallel to the line of stitching into the neckline, then a smooth, evenly curved curve is brought to the beginning of the lapel lapel. The line of the middle of the collar is built on a perpendicular from the extreme point of the collar to the sewing line. Mark the desired collar width on the midline.

Based on this collar, by changing the flyaway configuration, you can get many options for one-piece collars.

4.Flat one-piece collar.

Trace the front pattern on a piece of paper. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter IN.

Collar slope line. The position point of the upper loop is connected under the ruler to the point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter and continue the line upward beyond the shoulder section.

The line of stitching into the sprout. On the line of the collar inclination from the point . Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter upward, lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement, and put a dot A::

AB= POsh :3= 18: 3=6 cm

2-3 cm A: restore the perpendicular to the left.

The back pattern is applied to the outline of the front so that the highest point of the sprout coincides with the highest point of the neck, and the lowest point of the sprout is on a line drawn from the point A. Outline the sprout and the middle of the back.

Middle cut. From the sprout, along the line of the middle of the back, 7-14 cm are laid - the width of the collar at the back.

Departure cut decorated according to style. The configuration and size of the rise are specified in the same way as when constructing a one-piece stand-up collar.

When constructing patterns for jacket-type collars on the base pattern, determine the position of the opening line, i.e., the line of stitching the collar into the neck on the turn-down part of the side. The position of this line is determined by fashion and the desire of the author of the product. The upper part of this line runs along the front neckline, and then is drawn simultaneously with the lapel shoulder line. Having outlined the lapel, depending on the position of its ledge, draw the lines of the ledge and the departure of the collar. The collar pattern is cut from the front pattern along the opening line.

If set-in collars of this type should have a deepened, curved neck, the neck line is drawn on the pattern in a smooth curve from the point where the lapel turns (or the collar begins to be set in) to the top point of the shoulder section and neckline. The deviation of this line from the straight line connecting the points is usually 1-2 cm. The line for sewing in the collar is drawn symmetrically by a straight line, and its recess is also 1-2 cm.

Options for fancy collars for open necks.

A collar is an element of a product characterized by its “flexible” shape. There are a huge number of its modifications, so you can choose the ideal option for each face type, body type and other individual characteristics. Most collars have a similar design - there is a visible part and a stand hidden from view, separated from each other by an inflection. The key difference between the pieces is the way they connect to the bodice.

The element can be cut-off (it is sewn in along the cutout line) or one-piece. In the second case, as a rule, it is cut out in one piece with the front and back. This is how you can model:

• classic one-piece stand-up collars - with a height of the hidden part from 3.5-4.5 to 7-8 cm;
• stand-up models with stands 2.5-3.5 cm;
• semi-erect and flat-lying varieties - with a height of up to 2 cm and 5 mm, respectively.

The racks can vary in the width of the opening part (up to 25 cm), blind or open fasteners. They fit snugly to the neck or effectively frame it, moving away a short distance. The choice of the final form depends only on the wishes of the future owner of the item. The racks that are cut out along with the product have their own characteristics - they need to be taken into account when sewing clothes.

vigostore.ru

Features of one-piece racks

A one-piece collar is convenient to build on widened necks. This is due to the peculiarities of the style - it is most often used for outerwear, jackets, dresses and tops made of thick fabric, which organically combines with a strict style. To make the part look beautiful, the product is processed using a damp-heat method using an iron. Fabrics used for stands rarely stretch and their WTO on a narrow neckline can be problematic.

Most often, when constructing such collars, craftsmen start from the basic drawings of jackets, jackets and coats. The degree of neck expansion depends on the style of the product and the personal preferences of the owner. The size can vary from one to 5 centimeters and even more. There is a general “constructive” principle: as the height of the stand increases, the expansion along the neck should also increase. When creating a pattern, you must take into account the presence or absence of a middle seam on the back of the product. The modeling sequence is different in the two cases.

If there is no seam connection, you need to line up the part vertically, focusing on the center line along the back. The upper cut of the collar is slightly shifted, and the connection between the post and the shoulder is smooth. In most cases, the excess width is removed into darts. Their end should be located at a distance from the edge of the stand (at least half a centimeter), and the length depends on the height of the collar.

studfiles.net

Construction of a basic drawing of a one-piece rack

The pattern of a classic version of this collar is built according to a standard pattern. The work begins with drawing a right angle - the vertex is in the upper left corner, the rays are directed to the right and down.

First, draw up the stitching line:

1. from the original peak, a horizontal line is laid according to the measurement of the half-girth in the neck (with an increase of half a centimeter);
2. from the end of the drawn segment, an allowance for half-skidding is applied to the right side (its edge is raised by 3-5 mm);
3. from the original vertex, 2-4 centimeters are laid along the midline, marking the end with a dot;
4. the resulting marks are connected by an auxiliary line - it must be divided into three, indicating the division points;
5. from the first division point upward, draw a perpendicular straight line and measure half a centimeter;
6. smoothly connect the auxiliary intermediate marks of the curve.

The construction of the rack begins from auxiliary points vertically, and its protrusions are formed smoothly, in the form of rounded curves. Next, a flight cut is constructed by depositing along the midline up to 9-10 cm (along the width of the part on the reverse side). From the end of this segment to the right, a horizontal line is laid after intersecting with a vertical line, extended by 1-4 centimeters. Then you need to display the length of the angle and smoothly connect the marks.

sdelala-sama.ru

Constructing Adjacent Racks

Depending on the degree of fit of the one-piece rack, it is built differently in the drawing. If the collar should tightly cover the neck, you first need to model the back. Trace the main pattern and find the location of the highest and lowest points. Continue the line along the center of the backrest up to the height of the counter, and mark the end of the segment.

Progress

1. From the highest point of the sprout, set aside vertically the height of the stand along the shoulder (the value along the midline minus 1 centimeter).
2. From the end of the segment horizontally to the left and vertically up, build lines 1 centimeter long and smoothly connect the ends, continuing the curve to the cut on the shoulder.
3. Trace the drawing of the front (the shoulder dart should be moved to the side cut) and mark the highest and lowest points along the neckline.
4. From the highest mark, draw a cut line along the shoulder to the right side and from its end upward, draw a segment half the height along the stand (the angle should be right).
5. From the end constructed above the segment, draw a smooth curve to the highest point on the neck.

The height of the stand in the center of the front part is adjusted according to the parameter in the shoulder section - they should be equal (although the value can be determined by the model). The upper cut of the part can be brought to the depth of the cutout or formed along the edge of the side if a fastener is provided along the front. When constructing, control marks must be set - at the highest points on the sprout and neck.

stylefashion.com.ua

Designing collars spaced from the neck

A one-piece stand can be designed “at a distance” from the neck. The modeling technique is similar to tight-fitting varieties: first they build the back, outlining the main details on a sheet of paper, and then expand the sprout by 1-3 centimeters.

Progress

1. Continue upward the median line to the height of the counter.
2. From the point at the end of the sprout expansion, vertically plot the height of the stand at the shoulder (the corresponding parameter in the center minus 1 centimeter).
3. Connect the ends of the two lines drawn above, smoothly drawing a concave curve.
4. Make a side cut along the control point at the bottom of the sprout.
5. Make a dart - the new line of the sprout is divided in two, on one half an element is made with a gap of 1 centimeter and a length equal to the height of the stand.

The construction of the front also begins from the main pattern. It is circled, and the highest and lowest points along the cutout are marked on the resulting drawing. If the product must have a fastener, you need to make an allowance of up to 3 cm in the middle for half-skidding.

1. from the end of the expansion, draw a vertical line - the height along the stand from the seam in the shoulder;
2. from the point at the end of the segment, draw a horizontal line of about 2 centimeters to the right;
3. from the extended segment for half-skidding upwards, measure the height along the stand with a centimeter increase;
4. From the resulting point to the right side, draw a horizontal line of 2 centimeters.

The resulting auxiliary points are smoothly connected by concave curves - these are cuts from above and from the side. When making darts, take ⅓ of the length of the new neck as the height, and leave 1-1.5 centimeters for the solution.

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Designing products with a seam in the center of the back

Many fashionable oversized coats with one-piece stands have a seam running through the middle of the back. To design a collar for such a product, you need to widen the neck to the required volume and, accordingly, increase the height of the collar. The details of the clothing are copied separately, and the element is modeled on them, starting from the back. An extension is made on it (about 2-2.5 cm) - the value is laid down along the cut on the shoulder and marked with a dot. From there, draw a line along the neckline again (it will be needed to design the darts).

Progress

1. Set aside the height of the stand and lower it along the shoulder section (the height is reduced by 5-10 mm).
2. Make a bevel of about 5-20 mm and draw a new middle axis for the stand.
3. Create a bevel along the shoulder line, equal to or smaller than in the center.
4. Draw the top cut of the element - straight or smoothly, according to the model.
5. Draw a smooth curve along the shoulder line.
6. Construct a dart to fit along the neckline on the back: the gap is 7-10 mm (evenly distributed on both sides), the length is two heights along the stand.

The next stage is modeling the part along the shelf.

1. If the product must have fasteners and buttons, an allowance will be needed in the center of the front part (step back 3-4 cm from the middle).
2. The edge along the side is drawn along the entire length of the shelf. You need to widen the cutout by 2-2.5 cm and mark its end with a dot.
3. From this point, set the height of the element up minus 5 mm (the cut along the shoulder is lowered in the same way as the back).
4. Smoothly shape the shoulder line into a curve.
5. Draw a bevel along the front line as a straight line, and the top cut as a smooth curve.
6. Remove the excess width into the dart, the location of which is selected according to the style and figure (standardly it is placed perpendicular to the neckline) - a solution of 1-1.5 centimeters, length along the counter.

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To find where the central axis of the dart is located, you need to measure its length and set aside ⅓ of the value from the midline of the shelf. The solution is distributed along the cutout, and the top is finished, not reaching half a centimeter from the top cut on the stand. In a similar way, you can model collars on other voluminous products - jackets, jackets.

Collars are very diverse in shape. They usually consist of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks. In this case, the stand can be either cut-off or one-piece with a flyaway. The stand and takeoff are separated by an inflection line.

The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, so depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.

If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straightened or straight line increases the degree of fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.

To draw a collar drawing, you need to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We select it according to the model depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck.

For high-stand collars, take smaller values; for flat-lying collars with a low stand, take larger values.

The neck line in products is formed either along the line of the base of the neck, or widens or deepens depending on the model features. The widening of the neckline in the area of ​​the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the designed collar lags behind the neck.

Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck

2. From point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neckline of the front and back (measured along the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the line of sewing in the collar; a smaller value is selected when straight line of stitching, more - with a curved line).

3. Up vertically from point O, the amount of rise in the middle of the collar is plotted (from the table): OB = 2-4 cm.

4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

5. Using a smooth line, draw the line for sewing in the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A.

6. Collar width along the back: BB 1 = 8-10 cm (according to model).

The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from A to segment BA: AA 1 = BB 1 = 8-10 cm.

7. Connect straight line B 1 and A 1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the amount of protrusion of the corner).

A 1 A 2 = 3-6 cm.

8. From the middle of segments B 1 and A 1, restore upward a perpendicular measuring 1-1.5 cm.

9. Using a smooth curve coming out from point B 1 at a right angle to segment OB 1, form the take-off cut of the collar through points B 1, 1-1.5, A 2.

10. Connect straight line A to A 2

Pattern of a turn-down collar with a cutting stand

Thanks to the detachable stand, such a collar ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar fits closer to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand-up collar.

1. In the drawing of the basic base of the product, expand the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back by 0.5 cm.

Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.

On the new front neckline, mark the point where the side is ledged at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the shoulder point.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From point O, move up:

• collar stand height – 3.5 cm,
• collar cut-off height – 4 cm,
• the position of the collar stand inflection line is 0.5 cm,
• collar width – 5.5 cm.

4. From point A, put 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point, put 3.5 cm to the left.

VA 1 = 3.5 cm.

5. Through A 1, draw a vertical upward onto which to mark an arc from B with a radius of 10 cm.

BB 1 = 10 cm.

6. Design the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with Fig. The cut line of the stand begins at a distance of 3 cm from point B.

7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.

8. Cut the collar along the seam line connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the collar stitching section to the collar flap section.

9. Place the sections of the collar and stand along the cut lines on top of each other by 0.3 cm at the joint seam sections. Along the midline, the collar and stand-up should also be narrowed.

Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand

1. Construct a right angle with the vertex at point O.

2. From point O, lay a horizontal segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.

OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.

3. From A to the right, set aside the size of the collar shoulder, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (the allowance for the fastener on the product).

AA 1 = 1.5-2-2.5 cm

4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: OB = 2-4 cm.

5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From point O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

From the middle of the segment between points O 2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.

6. Draw up a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.

7. The size of the collar stand: BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

8. Through A, a perpendicular upward is restored to straight line OA, on which a segment equal to the height of the stand is laid: AA 2 = BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

9. Shape the protrusion of the stand with a rounded curve.

10. Collar width in the middle: BB 2 = 7-9 cm.

11. From B 2, draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from A is designated A 3 .

Line B 2 A 3 is continued to the right 1-4 cm and placed in B 3.

A 3 B 3 = 1-4 cm.

12. Connect straight line A 2 with B 3 and extend it upward. On it from A 2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).

A 2 B 4 = 7-15 cm.

13. The segment B 2 A 3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B 4.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm to the right of the starting point A.

AA 1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.

2. From A 1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.

A 1 A 2 = 2-4 cm.

3. Connect A straight to A 2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (allowance for half-skidding).

A 2 A 3 = 2-2.5 cm.

4. Section AA 2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downwards.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 3 by about.5 cm.

Draw a smooth curve for the stitching line of the stand through points A, 1, A 2, 0.5.

5. Collar stand height: AA 4 = 3-4 cm.

6. From A 2 and A 3, perpendiculars are restored upward to the segment AA 3, on which 2.5-3 cm are laid.

A 2 A 5 = A 3 A 6 = 2.5-3 cm.

7. Connect points A 4 and A 5 with an auxiliary straight line and from the middle of the segment restore a downward perpendicular of 1 cm in size.

8. Points A 4, 1, A 5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the protrusion of the rack is designed with a rounded line.

9. The line for sewing the collar into the stand is designed with the same bend as the upper cut of the stand.

From A 5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.

From B up, lay a segment equal to A 4 B.

BB 1 = A 4 ​​V.

Connect point B 1 with a straight line to A 5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.

Connect B 1, 1, A 5 with a smooth curve.

10. Collar width: B 1 B 2 = 4-5 cm.

11. From B 2, draw a horizontal line to the right, its intersection with the vertical drawn from A 5 is designated B 3.

12. From B 3 in a straight line, set aside 1-5 cm.

B 3 B 4 = 1-5 cm.

13. Connect straight line A 5 with B 4, extend it upward and put 9-14 cm on it from A 5.

A 5 B 5 = 9-14 cm.

14. The segment B 2 B 5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of a smooth curve is connected to B 5.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a high cutting stand

The high stand of this strictly shaped collar is fastened end-to-end at the center front line with hinged loops and buttons.

1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the modified neck of the product is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar rise.

4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upward and from the resulting point B, draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.

5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).

BB 1 = 4.5 cm.

6. Form the sections of the collar stand as shown in the figure.

7. From B 1, set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper edge of the stand. From this point, draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, and from the last point draw a vertical line up.

8. Design the collar sections in accordance with the drawing.