Dress in the style of the 30s. Dresses in the style of Chicago: everything new is a well-forgotten old

The fashion of the 30s is an era of calm, "cold" elegance, honed simple shapes and balanced lines. It became indecent to advertise wealth in the way that was typical of the previous decade of jazz. Therefore, ostentatious luxury has given way to a kind of "inconspicuous chic".

Women's fashion of the 30s

The decade brought fashion with a "new face". The image of a tomboy in a short skirt, with a daring bang, has ceased to be relevant. Women's outfits lengthen, the hair grows and curls into attractive curls. The ideal of beauty is Greta Garbo, who became a legend during her lifetime. Millions of fashionistas pluck their eyebrows, rinse their hair with chamomile infusion, in a word, they do everything in order to get closer to the style icon.

materials

Clothing in the style of the 30s is knitwear in all its diversity (cotton, woolen, silk), used for sewing sweaters, jumpers, cardigans, pullovers and even dresses with suits. Casual outfits made of muslin, tweed, viscose, linen, voile, percale, fidechine, all kinds of crepes and tweeds are also relevant.

In addition, designers offered women evening options toilets - elegant blouses and chic pajamas made of guipure, brocade, silk, chiffon, velvet. In the middle of the decade, the shiny texture of the fabric (satin, lamé) becomes fashionable.

Fashion details

Numerous draperies, folds and other details on the clothes were supposed to bring the female figure closer to the look that was considered ideal at that time - a lady with narrow hips and waist, a small bust and an elongated slender silhouette. In trend expressive jewelry for evening dresses- sequins, rhinestones, feathers, embroidery, beads, crystal sequins.

current models

The fashion symbol of the 30s is skirts and dresses, the length of which has crept down almost once after the banking crisis of 1929. First, the “survivors” of the Fashion House lengthened the models of clothes to the middle of the calf, and then almost to the very ankle. Fashionable but low-income ladies lengthened their old dresses and skirts by sewing frilled wedges on them.

Most women during the Great Depression were forced to take on their shoulders a heavy burden of new problems. And the style of the 30s reflected this in a peculiar way in clothing models. The effect of wide, which means strong shoulders visually achieved with the help of shoulder pads, scarves, multilayer flounces, wings and gathers on the sleeves.

In this very era, separate swimsuits first appeared, which then made a lot of noise in society.

By the end of the decade, models corresponding to the style of wartime came into fashion - X-shaped dresses, knee-length skirts, belts and outerwear with patch pockets. Another trend is models with a fluffy skirt and tight waist.

Trends

The fashion of this difficult era began to be massive. legislator glamorous style was Hollywood, its movie stars - Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow, Carol Lombard, Mae West. Ready-made clothes were first traded through mail-order catalogs. Publications distributed among women popular designer models million copies.

Sports remained accessible entertainment. All over the world there was a promotion of a healthy lifestyle, associations and gymnastic unions were created. Elite sports (tennis, golf, air and motorsport) and their corresponding costumes were reflected in the fashion of the 30s. However, gradually sports outfits turned into just leisure clothes.

• Era trend :athletic shorts. For the first time, Henry Wilfrid Austin put on this wardrobe detail on the court in 1932 during the Wimbledon tournament. A year later, tennis player Alice Marble followed suit.

Beautiful evening dresses demanded from fashionistas not only an ideal figure, but also an ideal figure. underwear. Elastic underwear with latex, corsets and garter belts appeared, which perfectly tightened the hips and waist.

Trendy colors and prints

Both in women's and men's fashion of the 30s, geometry is relevant - a strip and a cage. Fabrics with polka dots and small floral patterns were also popular.

In summer casual clothes, preference was given to white. Actual colors of evening dresses since the mid-30s have become gold and silver.

Dresses in the style of the 30s

A common model of casual dress is a dark-colored outfit with a white collar.

Evening and cocktail dresses were frankly feminine and seductive - this was required gangster style Chicago 30s. The length of outfits for going out varied from the knee to the ankle, but sometimes it still rose to the knee. The sleeves were replaced by bold straps. Models of a tight-fitting silhouette with a bare back and a deep neckline are relevant. The waist on the dress was slightly underestimated, but this was already considered progress, because in the previous decade there was no emphasis on this part of the female body at all, or the waist on the outfits was underestimated almost to the middle of the thigh.

• Era trend :oblique cut hem. Such models evening dresses made it possible to outline the female figure especially beautifully.

Long evening dresses made it possible to perform fashionable dances of the 30s without any problems - swing, foxtrot, tango.

Chicago-inspired dresses are occasionally used by modern fashion designers. A Ralph Lauren dedicated his penultimate collection to the fashion of the beginning of the last century.

Suits in the style of the 30s

The costumes of this era looked much less impressive. Yes, and women who put on traditionally men's things at that time still continued to cause strong irritation. However, a trouser suit was both more practical and more comfortable to wear, especially for business women.

The styles of the costumes were characterized by a wide variety of finishes and lines. In general, the cut of outfits became more complicated, it relied on geometry - this gave female silhouette definition.

The concept of a single ensemble in women's suit absent in the 1930s. The difficult economic situation has practically erased it from the face of fashion. Picking up clothes in a set has become too wasteful, but accessories have played an invaluable role here.

Outerwear in the style of the 30s

For the evening, as well as for cool weather, a raincoat of the simplest variation was chosen - a cape to the hips or waist with slits for the arms located in front. No less stylish, but more affordable outerwear were triangular shawls, stoles, wide scarves with fringe or tassels. Such details of the wardrobe were valued by fashionistas for their versatility - today you wear it this way, tomorrow it will be completely different.

Shoes in the style of the 30s

With a rounded toe and a figured heel of medium thickness and height. A desirable element of footwear was a strap on the instep or around the ankle. It was these shoes that perfectly complemented the femininity of the dresses and smoothed out the masculinity. trouser suits. Shoes for an evening out were often covered with silver or gold fabric and decorated with a decorative buckle.

Passion for summer sports led to the fashion for sandals - shoes with an open toe and heel. They were worn both on white socks and on a bare leg.

Since 1938, wedge and low platform shoes have come into fashion. This trend was a joint merit of the Italian shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo and the Parisian couturier Jacques Heim.

Men's fashion of the 30s

For men of that era, fashion became more conservative. Edward VIII, Duke of Windsor, continued to be the trendsetter. It was he who brought into fashion a casual and some kind of "tired" elegance. And thanks to Fred Astaire, a film actor popular in those years, the tailcoat returned to its position.

Mass men's fashion trends are standard suits with wide shoulders and fitted jackets, trousers with cuffs. Headwear is a must casual wear in the style of the 30s, it was Felt hat or a cap.

Actual men's hairstyle 30s - medium length hair, combed ("licked") back and fixed with wax. Shoes - classic boots with a rounded square or oval toe.

• Era trend :gaiters (usually white) - a kind of covers that not only protected shoes from getting wet (and in a time of crisis, you generally had to treat your wardrobe as carefully as possible), but also became a fashionable detail of the style of the 30s.

Accessories under the wardrobe of the 30s

The main style trend of the 30s was to collect sets from a handbag, hat, shoes and gloves. All these accessories were selected in one color. fashion styles hats - wide-brimmed and, on the contrary, very tiny.

Elegant dresses of the fashionista were complemented by a headband decorated with flowers, feathers, sparkles. A handbag for an evening out was selected in the form of an envelope, which was worn under the arm, and not on the strap. The actual element of the 30s is gloves.

• Era trend :elongated models of gloves made of velvet and silk, as well as models with large bells.

Indispensable attributes women's fashion Stockings, a feather boa and a long elegant mouthpiece are also of the 30s (smoking females were then in trend).

Fur boas made of silver fox and arctic fox, bows, necklaces made of gilded links and artificial crystals, and long beads were used as decoration for the neck. Real jewelry in the era of the Great Depression, alas, was an unaffordable luxury. Therefore, the decade was marked by the first fashion boom of cheap jewelry.

• Stylist tip: a good addition to a retro dress in the style of Chicago will be long thread pearls (even if artificial), tied in a knot under the breast.

Hairstyles in the style of the 30s

The boyishly mischievous hairstyles of the 20s have changed. Trends of the decade - curls and waves, creating the effect of heavy, thick and shiny hair. For this, curlers, chemical and cold perm were used (without the use of curling products - only female fingers and hairpins with stealth).

With the beginning of the 30s, radical lightening of hair came into fashion. The trendsetter of the blonde was the popular actress Jean Harlow, whom they tried to imitate, using not only professional paints for hair, but even peroxide and bleach for laundry.

Makeup in the style of the 30s

Fully corresponds to the gangster spirit of that time. The main accents of make-up are velvety pale skin, brightly painted eyes and scarlet lips. The trend is carefully plucked eyebrow-threads, the “surprised” bend of which was drawn with a dark pencil. Eye makeup was designed to give the look a dramatic look, for which dark shadows were applied slightly angularly and almost to the bridge of the nose. A seductive fly over the lip or on the cheek completed the image.

The content of the article

The 1930s was a period of development of a large world economy, with which changes in the lives of both bankers and employees were associated. Some suffered losses, others lost everything to the penny.

Image in the style of the 30s of the twentieth century.

Around this time, Adolf Hitler came to power. The atmosphere was pre-war, so it is not surprising that all these changes also affected the style of clothing, hairstyles, and makeup.

The chic and glamor of the last decade does not go out of fashion, but it is becoming less popular. Plain and comfortable clothes are replacing catchy outfits. Prints that adorn the fabrics of the outfits of that time are stripes, checks, peas. Jewels are becoming rare, so they are replaced with costume jewelry.

Traditional looks of the 30s of the last century.

The outfits regain their collars, the length of the skirts reaches the floor. New fashion trends appear - wide shoulders and trousers, as well as sunglasses.
Straight cut and low waist are no longer a trend, they are replaced by the usual classics. Ladies prefer to wear outfits in white, beige, brown, burgundy and black colors.

Evening dresses in the style of Chicago in the 30s.

The standard of style and fashion has become a mature and practical woman, which has all the rights on a par with a man, unlike the 20s, when everyone was guided by a frivolous girl.

More candid and brighter

The 1930s also marked the heyday of Hollywood. Of course, stars such as Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo, Bette Davis, Katharine Hepburn and others continued to follow high fashion luxury. It was then that the term "glamor" appeared. Ordinary girls beauties in brocade and satin, with feathers and fur, and fringe were observed on the screen.

Stylish outfits in the style of a burgeoning Hollywood.

The popularity of Hollywood falls on the 30s.

A Chicago-style dress made any girl a queen. It was an outfit just below the knees or to the floor with bare arms, shoulders, neck, chest, and back. The image was complemented with many accessories, gloves and boas. In secular circles, it was fashionable to have lightened curls playfully sticking out from under the hat, and to highlight the lips with red lipstick.

Faster, higher, stronger

At that time, there was an active promotion of a healthy lifestyle, so designers around the world developed sportswear. Surprisingly, the most sought-after outfits were white, despite its soiling. Everything was explained by the fact that this color perfectly reflects the sun's rays, and in addition, personifies lightness and convenience.

T-shirts, trousers, and later shorts began to be worn not only by men, but also by women. A real fashionable discovery was the appearance, in which one can faintly see the resemblance to modern models.

Swimwear 30s.

One way or another, sporty style had an impact on casual style. Cardigans and comfortable sweaters were in demand, and suits became more and more simple. Shoes have also changed. Sandals have become popular.

In the 30s, women tried on the element men's wardrobe- trousers.

Regardless of status and social status, every woman wore accessories that played a special role in the style of that time. The most popular was the hat, which there were many styles. However, only rich women could have hats for various occasions.

The main accessory of the 30s.

Handbags were in tone with hats and gloves, sometimes elongated, had the shape of an envelope. Fur boas, neck bows, and veils were very popular. Beads made of pearls were tied into a knot by fashionistas.

Dark stockings perfectly completed the look, girls with slender legs wore a mesh. Among the shoes, shoes with consistently low heels were common. Another feature of the female image in the style of Chicago is the mouthpiece. Despite the promotion of a healthy lifestyle, many ladies smoked.

A common image of a luxurious fashionista in the mid-30s.

More noticeable and more mysterious

The period of the 1930s is characterized by a time of contradictions. After all, despite the trend of simplicity and economy, it was a decade of fashionable surprises. It was then that things appeared with which we are literally related today. Technology has been improved, and production is a class higher, because the clothes were produced much better than in the previous decade. The famous Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet also marked this era.

This historical era made it possible for women to try on several images. Yes, in evening dress she was a queen, and in everyday comfortable looks she felt comfortable and at the same time remarkable. Today we do not notice how the style of that time is similar to the modern one, because our ancestors have a lot to learn.

The fashion of the 1930s was both diverse and unifying. And yet, speaking of the style of that period, an association with an outfit in the style of Chicago involuntarily floats into the imagination. Such a dress hid figure flaws well and was comfortable enough for dancing. Surprisingly, it is possible to buy a dress in this style today, because the retro fashion remains. Sewing such an outfit also does not make special work. The main thing is to know the distinctive elements - beads, fringe, sequins, rhinestones. You need to supplement such an outfit with gloves, cover your hair with a ribbon, apply scarlet lipstick on your lips, and draw arrows in front of your eyes. In order for the image to turn out exactly in the style of the 30s, the dress should be simple, and the makeup should be natural.

more elegant

Men were also affected by fashion at that time. Therefore, if you are going to a theme party together, you should know the features of the image of a man in the 30s.

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At all times, women have sought to look beautiful. An important role when creating a beautiful appearance, clothes play. Modern fashionistas adhere to different styles, there are a lot of alternatives in fashion in our time, the choice of clothes is amazing. But I propose to plunge into the past and see how fashion has changed over the course of different decades.

30s

In 1929, the world was gripped by an economic crisis, which made its own adjustments to the world of the fashion industry. Clothes were treated carefully and carefully, old things were darned and altered.

To get an elongated silhouette that was fashionable in those years, frills, ruffles, and frills were sewn to old dresses.

The length of dresses and skirts reached the ankles, moreover, the skirts were cut along the oblique. Mandatory elements women's clothing there were puffed sleeves, deep cuts in the neckline and on the back, turn-down collars.

The film industry has had a great influence on fashion. Famous film actresses of the 30s, such as Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn, became the main style icons. These women showed what is now called " Hollywood chic»: dresses with trains, decorated with fabric flowers, bows, with a long peplum.

Fur was considered a chic accessory, fur capes and capes were especially popular. Handbags, various hats (with wide brim, small hats, pills, berets) and gloves are mandatory attributes of fashionable women of the 30s.

Outstanding designers of that time include Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Chanel offered conservative, classic models. Elsa Schiaparelli also amazed with her extravagant, avant-garde outfits.

40s

For the fashion of the 40s. was greatly influenced by the Second World War. Silhouettes with broad shoulders, in military style, have come into fashion. Women's jackets resembled the military uniforms of men. The length of skirts and dresses has become shorter, just below the knees. The lack of accessories led to the fact that they began to make homemade buttons covered with fabric.

Regarding headwear, hats were replaced with scarves. In the USA and Europe, a turban was considered a special chic, which was made from scarves and tied in various ways.

The most desirable element of the wardrobe of every fashionista was thin stockings made of nylon or silk. But it was practically impossible to get them, since nylon and silk were used in sewing parachutes, so the use of these fabrics for other purposes was prohibited. Women were forced to imitate stockings by drawing a seam on the back of their legs.

At the end of the war, in the mid-40s. there has been a change in fashion. In the 45th, Cristobal Balenciaga was the first to demonstrate models of dresses with elongated skirts. At the beginning of the 46th, dresses and sheath skirts, focusing on the hips, came into fashion, and by the end of the year puffy skirts and asymmetric hems became popular.

50s

The most iconic style of the 1950s was the nu bow ( new look) proposed by Christian Dior. Dresses were supposed to emphasize the dignity of the figure: magnificent bust, thin waist, rounded hips.

The hourglass silhouette was a complete contrast to the straight, broad-shouldered silhouette so fashionable in the 1940s. At first, the public was shocked, because it took about 40-50 meters of fabric to sew one dress from Dior. This was considered exorbitant waste, an unaffordable luxury after the ascetic minimalism of the war years. But Christian Dior insisted that femininity and grace should return to fashion.

In the early 50s, the sun-flared skirt was especially popular. A little later, a sexy and more practical pencil skirt came into fashion.

Mandatory element women's wardrobe there was a corset that slimmed the waist up to 50 cm. At the same time, the skirts were mostly puffy, multi-layered.

Of the accessories, small pillbox hats, multiple jewelry, sunglasses, various handbags, scarves were relevant.

60s

The fashion of the 60s brought great changes to society. If the image of luxurious mature woman, now fashion has purposefully headed for the youth. French designers have faded into the background. British fashion designers became popular, who came up with the image of a London dude.

Cut geometry, bright saturated colors, psychedelic patterns, fabrics with lurex, glitter, polyester, nylon - all this characterized the clothes of the 60s.

At the same time, with the image of the London dude, the hippie style became popular. Clothing was distinguished by the simplicity of forms - flared trousers, mini-dresses, mini-skirts. But great attention paid to accessories and shoes: high suede boots with fringes, huge plastic glasses, voluminous jewelry, wide belts.

Another innovation was the unisex style. Many girls, without regret, parted with long hair, making a haircut “like a boy”. The unisex style icon was the famous model Twiggy. The legendary band The Beatles can be called bright representatives of men's fashion in the 60s.

70s

In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means for self-expression through fashion. There was no single style direction, everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

by the most fashion element wardrobe became jeans, which were originally worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were trapeze skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with a large bright print, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, shirt dresses.

In addition, it should be noted that clothing has become more comfortable and practical. There was a concept basic wardrobe, consisting of required amount things that go together.

When it comes to shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

Of the designers in the 70s, Sonya Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonya Rykiel created comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses from wool knitwear and mohair.

Also popular was Giorgio Armani, who proposed to combine in one ensemble trendy jeans with tweed jackets.

In the late 70s, designer Claude Montana gained recognition, creating military-style clothing with a fitted silhouette and, at the same time, a wide shoulder line.

80s

The style of the 1980s was associated with the expression "too much", too much: too defiant, too bright, too provocative. Frank sexuality in outfits has come into fashion. It was demonstrated due to tight-fitting clothes, mini-skirts, leggings (now called leggings), open necklines, shiny fabrics. Large jewelry "gold" was also held in high esteem.

High fashion was distinguished by rich embroidery and decor, disco and punk reigned in democratic fashion.

The main silhouette of clothing in the 80s is an inverted triangle. Emphasis was placed on broad shoulders, raglan sleeves or “batwing”, trousers narrowed to the bottom with a high belt (the so-called “bananas”).

Stretch jeans and denim jeans are in fashion. Miniskirts, windbreakers made of raincoat fabric, T-shirts with inscriptions, leather jackets, elements of sportswear.

Business women wore suits in the style of Chanel and Margaret Thatcher. Basically, these were wide double-breasted jackets combined with a miniskirt or trousers, and jackets straight cut, decorated with piping.

In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes were successful, with original elements decor: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The positions of Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, who in their collections focused on deconstructivism, playing with geometric shapes and colors, also gained a foothold.

90s

In the 1990s, the whole world was under the influence of the economic crisis. A lot of youth subcultures appeared, whose slogan was a departure from standards and rejection of imposed morality. It was then that such a stylistic direction as grunge arose. Things that have a worn look, specially aged, become relevant. Layering, negligence, elements of hippies, ethnics are welcome.

A little later, clothes made of synthetic materials, bright neon colors. It was usually worn by representatives of the neo-punk subculture.

In the mid-90s, glamor returned, with the pages of glossy magazines promoting luxury, shiny materials (brocade, satin, silk), furs, and jewelry.

In the late 90s, many designers gave a second wind to the retro style, using elements of historical costumes in their collections.

In the 90s, the world recognized the now iconic supermodel Kate Moss, who was the founder of a new style direction - heroin chic.

Blogger Donna Julietta writes: “Today I was looking at various retro photographs that depict the history of people’s lives and then I thought it would be nice to look at photos that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how interesting fashion girls dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review regarding fashion for decades. I’ll make a reservation right away that I will not cite as an example women who were popular in certain time, it is better to pay special attention to them. Let's just discuss fashion."

(Total 43 photos)

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Source: Journal/ make-your-style

Let's start with the 10s of the XX century.

1. Corsets have held back women for years, making their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and making life harder. The impossibility of inhaling and exhaling once again, constant illnesses due to too tightly tightened "shells" - all this made the corset, although a significant object of the era, but very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally exhaled - a couturier named Paul Poiret for the first time suggested wearing dresses of a simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses came into fashion - that is why the tenth years were remembered as the years of "liberation" of women from the oppression of one of the most uncomfortable toilet items, and Paul Poiret became a real deliverer for the ladies of high society.

2. In the 1910s, Russian chic was in fashion - the Russian Seasons, which the famous Sergei Diaghilev brought to Paris, were a huge success. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could adopt the art of haute couture among Parisians.

3. It was then that all the familiar attributes of a “chic life” in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and glittery accessories.

Smooth transition to the fashion of the 20s

4. During this period, sports came into fashion with confident steps, sports figures male type, A female forms began to gradually lose relevance and popularity. The ideal is a thin lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called the reformer and revolutionary of fashion of this period. Along with her, in these times, fashionable clothes were created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille”, fur fashion house “Jacques Heim” and others.

5. Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 1920s. Designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of jewelry, zig-zag embroidery. This style was called "art deco", and came from the name of the exhibition of modern decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

6. It was the style of decorating and embellishing things. Decor elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

7. Shoes trimmed with embroidery or appliqués, decorated according to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. "Art Deco" is an eclectic style in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with the geometric forms of cubism; unconventional inexpensive and simple materials are mixed with expensive ones traditional materials good quality.

8. Such a combination of incongruous, mixed in one style.

9. As a result of the fashion features of the 20s:

- the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
— fashion coat straight cut tapering to the bottom and with a fur collar;
- pajama trousers and pajamas, in which at that time they went to the beach, are in fashion;
- the first bathing suits for women appeared - a revolution in beach fashion;
- clothes were sewn from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- sports style is in fashion, not only trousers appear, but also shorts;
- the appearance of Chanel's classic little black dress;

Fashion of the 30s

10. In these times, the cut of clothes has become more complicated. The quality of mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing has improved markedly. Hollywood is a trendsetter in the US. But even here, firms began to appear that traded with the help of catalogs sent by mail. These firms distributed new fashion models in millions of copies.

11. Long skirts became the fashion standard in the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to offer long dresses and skirts, the waist line of which was in its place. After this innovation, all fashion houses lengthened their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached the middle of the calf, and a little later it dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies, following fashion trends, lengthened their clothes on their own. They sewed wedges and various frills.

12. A very popular clothing of the 30s was a women's street suit that existed in the most variety of options. Outerwear– coats and jackets were distinguished by extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

13. Each type of clothing, including the costume, was characterized by a wide variety of shaped lines and finishes. The cut of costumes became more complicated, began to rely on geometry, which gives clarity to the silhouette.

14. Decorative details and decorations were widely used in the costume. Hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in one color scheme. Accessories were selected very strictly. They were usually black or Brown and white in summer.

15. Accessories chosen in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years, except for a hat or handbag, could not afford anything else.

Fashion 40s

16. The dominant fashion trend of the early 40s was layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of a vertical strip, puffed sleeves. It is worth noting that at that time, striped clothing was the most popular. The war began, and the world moved to a paramilitary position, so the fashion of the 40s has undergone significant changes. Women no longer have time to think about makeup and replenishing their wardrobe.

17. During this period appearance outfits has been greatly simplified to minimalism in everything. natural fabrics stop being used for civilian purposes. Clothing for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

18. Floral designs are back in fashion: ornaments, small flowers have become the main decoration of the fabric and dresses sewn from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to take root. The military style, which is still popular today, became the discovery of the war period.

19. At the same time, they released a new model of shoes: shoes with stiletto heels.

20. Also an innovation was the production of turtleneck blouses, these models with a high collar under the throat deservedly received the recognition of fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

22. In the post-war years, social differences became noticeably sharper. Wives have again turned into a symbol of the well-being of their spouses, as a kind of showcase for others. A mandatory ritual for every woman has become a visit to a hairdressing salon, applying makeup. Ideal woman, even if she didn’t work anywhere and was a housewife, she should have been fully armed already in the early morning: with a perfect haircut, high heels and makeup, stand by the stove or vacuum the carpet.

23. Even in the Soviet Union, in which the way of life was significantly different from the Western one, it was customary to do hair styling at a hairdresser or a perm at least once a week, which also began to come into fashion with particular swiftness.

24. The 50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, flared shoulder silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, there were special requirements for the figure: sloping shoulders, a thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

25. To meet these standards, women wore tight corsets, lined their bras with cloth or cotton, and tightened their bellies. The images of beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Clara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

26. Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. A fashionable and stylish woman of the style of the 50s was like a flower in silhouette: a fluffy floor-length skirt, under which they put on a multi-layered petticoat, high heels on high heels, nylon stockings with a seam. Stockings are a must-have accessory to complete the look and were extremely expensive. But what women did not just go to look attractive and feel like beauties who follow fashion trends. It was problematic to buy fabrics at that time, they were released into one hand no more than a certain amount, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt under the "new silhouette", it took from nine to forty meters of material!

Fashion 60s

The legendary 60s is the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, the period of the solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. The new style needed new hairstyles. Once again, London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. In 1959, the French film Babette Goes to War starring Brigitte Bardot was released. A casually whipped hairstyle with a pile, despite the fact that fashionistas take a lot of time to create it, is becoming super popular.

27. Accessories became very popular: beads made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, macro glasses that covered the floor of the face.

28. In London, the most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born - a miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, the legendary Mary Quant showed the first mini-length collection. The new style, called "London style", very quickly conquered the youth of the whole world.

29. 60s - the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, as they do not wrinkle and are easily washed, in addition, they are cheap.

30. The fashion of that time is supportive of unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, jewelry. Tall people are becoming super popular. Women's boots low-heeled, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go-go (go go). Boots became widespread with the advent of mini-length fashion and the dance style of the same name.

The fashion of the late 1960s is influenced by the hippie movement. The youth opposed social and class distinctions, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, hippies emphasized the denial of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately casual and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric shoulder bags. Emphasizes the asexuality of the appearance, long hair- symbolize freedom.

70s fashion

31. In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means for self-expression through fashion. There was no single style direction, everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

32. The motto of the 70s was the expression "Everything is possible!". For the choice of progressive and active young people, the couturiers presented several styles, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were originally worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

33. Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were trapeze skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with a large bright print, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, shirt dresses.

34. In addition, it should be noted that clothing has become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe has appeared, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

35. Of the designers in the 70s, Sonia Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonya Rykiel created comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses made of woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

36. In the fashion of the 80s, retro images intertwined, rethought by designers, as well as born by youth subcultures, music and dance trends, and the ongoing boom in sports.

37. Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, breakdance, snowboarding, skateboarding, rollerblading, step aerobics - all these phenomena were reflected in the style of the decade.

38. The list of iconic items of the decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military-style and safari-style clothes, kimono, batwing and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright drawings, black fishnet tights, shabby denim, the so-called varenka, black leather jackets, lurex, massive jewelry, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of "wet hair", cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair of decorative colors, such as "eggplant", highlighting with "feathers". A lot of cosmetics of deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl were used.

Massive 1980s can be described as excessive. Everything, as it were, is "too" - too narrow, too voluminous, too catchy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decor elements were successful: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

39. The style of the 90s in clothing, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to choosing clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating one’s image is changing, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main call of the nineties is “be who you are!” At that time, special attention was paid to denim clothing- Only the lazy did not go in it. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called "denim", since every person had such a thing in more than one copy.

40. In the nineties, unisex fashion spreads around the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

41. The nineties are the time of sneakers and flat shoes. This unisex style is very fond of large Italian and American firms such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. Costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partnership art, when, along with strict asceticism, the costume contains deliberate theatricality with a bright range of colors. Fashion changes depending on the social orientation and territoriality, as in Europe the bohemian prefers conceptual designer clothes.

42. The main fashion emphasis of the nineties is not on clothes, but on its owner. Fashionable image created slim figure with tanned or milky-white skin. The culture of the body flourishes like in times ancient greece. Fashionistas and fashionistas visit not only sports clubs, but also beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Supermodels from fashion catwalks become role models, a significant contribution to this was made by television and fashion magazines.

43. Well then. This concludes my review. I would like to say that of all times, the 30s, 50s and 70s are closer to my preferences. In general, everything new is a long forgotten old.

"Life has become better, life has become happier!"

In the 30s, the needs of the Soviet people grew, everyone wanted to wear good-quality clothes, be able to buy a festive dress, warm winter coat and good shoes, to buy comfortable and beautiful children's things, but the destroyed, and still far from fully restored, clothing industry of the USSR, hardly provided the population of a huge country, not only with beautiful and fashionable, but even with the most essential. There was a shortage all around.

Discussions about the fundamentally new clothes of the new Soviet man, characteristic of the twenties, subsided by the thirties, the question of the "mass fashion of the victorious proletariat" gradually lost its former importance. The circle of consumers of fashionable products remained very limited - former NEP men who managed to earn good money during the period of the new economic policy, families of military and party leaders, as well as leaders of the most important positions for the USSR, in Soviet terminology, the so-called nomenklatura workers, the creative elite, and those who got a job in any "bread places" associated with the deficit.

In a country where everything had to be subordinated to the governing structures, a single modeling center had not yet been formed, and the work of clothing designers, as they were then called, was in initial stage of its development, although by this time in the USSR there were already talented craftsmen creating fashion models and outstanding textile artists, such as Nadezhda Makarova, Alexandra Lyamina, Nadezhda Lamanova, Fyokla Gorelenkova, Anna Blank, Varvara Stepanova, Kira Mosyakova, Oscar Grun, M. Anufrieva, V. Maslova, M. Nazarevskaya, D. Lekhtman and many others.

Large factories of the country opened their own art and design workshops, which began to develop new fabric colors and clothing models. The state publishing house of light industry even began to publish a catalog intended for trade organizations that could order all these models from the respective factories. But in fact, clothes of this level were sold extremely rarely in Soviet stores. A huge problem for the production of good fabrics, and, consequently, for high-quality clothing, was industrial raw materials, which were sorely lacking.

In the 1930s, the production of calico, which was extremely popular because of its cheapness, increased sharply in the country. During this period, the textile industry developed under the motto "Soviet fabric - best fabric in the world!". The goal was to increase the production of high quality fabrics and at the same time reduce their cost. The task is difficult! To achieve it, a number of textile enterprises were reconstructed, the first domestic automatic looms appeared, new types of fabrics were mastered - crepe, woolen, fullartine, satin, calico, satin, carpetcott, cheviot, cloth, boston, kolomenk, flannel, boumazeya, etc. Increased production of fine fabrics - volta, mayi, voile, cambric, marshmallow, fabrics with viscose fiber, favorites of the 30s were produced - silk, satin, crepe de chine, fide chine, crepe georgette. True, these fabrics appeared on sale infrequently even in large cities, and in some areas they did not appear at all.

To reduce the cost of new fabrics, the number of shafts of printing machines had to be reduced, which limited the possibilities of artists. In the late 1920s and early 1930s, it was mandatory for all textile factories to produce printed fabrics with propaganda patterns glorifying the work of the Soviet man - hammers and sickles, stars, tractors, seeders, combines, factory chimneys with smoke, airplanes, etc. Even such talented craftsmen as Varvara Stepanova, Kira Mosyakova, Oskar Grun were seized by the idea of ​​creating propaganda textiles and came up with fabrics with ideological patterns. In connection with this trend, many old engraving rollers with beautiful traditional weaving ornaments were massively destroyed. The surfaces of the shafts were ground down and an ideological pattern was applied. The Soviet textile phenomenon, thank God, did not last long. At artistic councils and meetings, they increasingly began to talk about the fact that such “creative finds” are too cumbersome for textiles, do not match the purpose and texture of the fabric, are uncomfortable in cut, require high consumption and therefore are unprofitable for sewing enterprises. The feuilleton, published in the Pravda newspaper, under the title "Front - a tractor, behind - a combine", drew a line in disputes about thematic drawings, since 1933 their production was stopped by order of the Council of People's Commissars for the vulgarization of the ideas of socialism and communism.

In the second half of the 1930s, some changes took place in the nature of the design of fabrics. If traditionalness was present in calicoes, then a different interpretation could be traced in the new assortment floral pattern- expressive drawings in the nature of a sketch, without drawing shapes, often made only by filling in color without an outline. The drawings of the second half of the 1930s were distinguished by the dynamism of the composition, which was achieved due to the turns of lines and strokes: the flowers seemed to fly and circle around the colored background.

At this time, the state factories, where young Soviet fashion designers tried their hand, became a kind of modeling centers. A significant drawback of their work was a purely applied nature, limiting the creative imagination of the artist, fashion designers had to take into account the needs of mass production and adapt to the real possibilities of each particular factory and its subcontractors. Clothing designers mainly focused on the capabilities of their factory. Such a system, strictly subordinated to the interests of a particular production, had little to do with the real formation of fashion.

Another reason that hindered the development of fashion trends in the early 1930s was the acute shortage of clothing in the country and the low incomes of the population. Many did not even think about whether their clothes were fashionable or not, but simply wore what else could be worn. In the early 30s, the influence of the 20s was still very much felt in clothes and hairstyles. In 1930 - 1935, under the conditions of rationed distribution, clothes and shoes produced in the country, along with bread and other food products, were mainly sold by cards. The card system began to be abolished in 1935. As in the 1920s, clothes and shoes were comparatively expensive, bought out of practical necessity, not to change out of fashionable wardrobe. When in 1930 the USSR began to introduce mandatory elementary education, many children could not attend school due to the lack of clothes and shoes, especially in winter. Not rich, and sometimes impoverished in its mass, Soviet society, of course, was not ready for a serious perception of such a phenomenon as "fashion".

The end of the NEP era in the late 1920s, initiated by Stalin and his entourage, the "great turning point", accompanied by the eradication of individualism and the promotion of communal life, calls for asceticism, did not contribute to the development of fashion and consumption. Private hairdressers, shops, restaurants, ateliers, and cooperative stores were closed. From the mid-1930s, a relative increase in the living standards of the Soviet people began to be observed, especially among the significantly growing urban population. The industrialization processes taking place in the country influenced the dynamics of the spread of urban culture, including fashion.

In 1931, the so-called "Torgsins" (All-Union Association for Trade with Foreigners - Trade Syndicate) were opened, which were engaged in servicing guests from abroad and Soviet citizens who had cash currency, as well as gold, jewelry and other valuables that could be exchanged for food or other consumer goods. Torgsins abounded with all kinds of everyday goods - good clothes and shoes, underwear, textiles, etc. Torgsins existed until 1936. In addition, commission trade flourished in large cities, thanks to which it was possible to purchase excellent goods, including foreign ones, unless, of course, a visit to a commission store was “on a korman”. Starting from the second half of the 1920s, the country practiced the sale of goods on a work loan. State and cooperative trading establishments sold goods to workers and employees on payment by installments, subject to the provision of guarantees by enterprises or institutions where potential buyers worked. A long-term loan was usually received for six months in the amount of monthly earnings. Specialized rabcredit stores were even organized.

Despite the criticism of traditional fashion, many activists of the revolutionary movement and the wives of those whose names are closely associated with Soviet ideology followed it with pleasure. fashionable elegant clothes fit into the circle of interests of the famous Russian revolutionaries Inessa Armand and Larisa Reisner, sung by Vsevolod Vishnevsky in the image of a commissar in The Optimistic Tragedy, Alexandra Kollontai, who became the first woman ambassador in post-revolutionary Russia in history, the common-law wife of the writer Maxim Gorky, actress and public figure Maria Andreeva , who was an admirer and patroness of fashion designer Nadezhda Lamanova, the wife of People's Commissar Molotov Polina Zhemchuzhina, who became the head of the Glavparfumer and a member of the Artistic Council at the Moscow House of Models, the wife of People's Commissar of Education Lunacharsky, actress Natalya Rosenel, who was considered one of the most fashion ladies Moscow in the 20s - 30s. Rosenel regularly received fashionable new clothes from Europe. And Lunacharsky himself was not indifferent to clothes, wore American suits, often changed ties, bow ties and shirts.

In the 1930s, the Soviet nomenklatura, unlike ordinary citizens, had access to fashion clothes, including foreign-made ones. For example, in the wardrobe of the People's Commissar of the NKVD Heinrich Yagoda, in addition to a myriad of shirts, there were 21 coats and 22 suits, most of them foreign brands. However, it was not particularly encouraged that the wives and children of party leaders, who dressed fashionably and respectably in their environment, demonstrated prosperity to the common people. In the early 1930s, among the Soviet elite, it was customary to order clothes from expensive private tailors or visit closed ateliers, for example, Galina Kravchenko, an aspiring actress and young daughter-in-law of Lev Kamenev, visited the elite departmental tailoring workshop of the People's Commissariat for Foreign Affairs on Kuznets Bridge. In the same atelier, at the same dressmaker, Stalin's wife, Nadezhda Alliluyeva, also dressed.

During public policy, later called "neonep", it became possible to resuscitate fashion, publish fashion magazines, create state model department stores with fashion studios attached to them in large cities (except for the usual system of state tailoring studios). In the 30s, the concept of the Soviet House of Models appeared in the country, initially, in fact, it was just a fashion studio, for example, Mostorg's Model House, located on Bolshaya Dmitrovka. It appeared in 1933 and was famous for the fact that the magnificent dressmaker Reveka Yasnaya worked within its walls, and it was possible to get an appointment with her only through an acquaintance. In 1934, in Moscow, at the experimental sewing laboratory of the Mosbelye trust, the country's first large Fashion House on Sretenka was opened, headed by Lamanova's niece, fashion designer Nadezhda Makarova, until 1949. For decoration buildings invited Vladimir Andreevich Favorsky, then already a well-known artist. Favorsky was so interested in the activities of the House of Models that he was introduced to its artistic council. His ideas about the style of dresses, about the choice of fabric often competed with the ideas of the fashion designers themselves, and found support from the latter.

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