Women's Soviet fashion after the war. Diary of a Riga woman

The world was on the verge of World War II. The militarization of society has once again influenced fashion. Just as during the First World War, clothing silhouettes began to change noticeably. Since the late 30s, padded shoulders have become the main style-forming detail, increasing every year. In the 1940s, massive shoulder pads were mandatory for both women and men fashionable clothes . In addition, details characteristic of the military style appear in clothing and sports direction- patch pockets, yokes and deep folds on the back, straps and shoulder straps, in fashion belted waist. Women's skirts are becoming shorter than in the 1930s, and slightly flared and pleated models predominate.

In European women's fashion In the 1940s, elements of Tyrolean-Bavarian costume and Caribbean-Latin and Spanish motifs were very popular. In fashion are lantern sleeves, characteristic of Tyrolean and Bavarian dresses, Tyrolean hats reminiscent of hunting ones, Andalusian polka dots, small bolero jackets, miniature hats in the style of Spanish bullfighters, Basque berets, turbans like those of Cuban workers from sugar cane plantations.

In 1940, the Soviet fashion is getting closer to the European one. Politicians fought for spheres of influence and divided the world among themselves, taking territories from some states and giving them to others, and fashion, oddly enough, benefited from this cruel process, once again proving that it is part of the global world process and does not need borders. Thanks to the annexation of Western Belarus, Western Ukraine, which were part of Poland, to the USSR, the return of Bessarabia, which was at that time part of Romania, Vyborg, which was the territory of Finland, and the Baltic countries, the concept of fashion was renewed and expanded in the Soviet space.

For the USSR, states in which light industry was quite highly developed, in the field of fashion were a kind of stream of fresh blood, Soviet people received greater access to information about world fashion trends. In Lvov, famous for its excellent tailors and shoemakers, in Vilna, and especially in Riga, which at that time was even compared to Western European cities, called “little Paris,” one could freely buy good fashionable clothes. Riga women have always been famous for their special elegance. There were many fashion salons in Riga, and high-quality fashion magazines were published informing about world fashion trends. People came to the Baltic states to buy good shoes, linen, furs and French perfumes. Soviet actresses brought fashionable items from their tours. Lviv was also filled with goods. From there they brought magnificent fabrics, furs, jewelry, leather bags and shoes.

During this period, Soviet fashionistas walked along with European fashions and wore padded shoulders, heavily flared items at the waist, just below the knee, blouses with puffed sleeves, worn with sundresses, high hats in the Tyrolean-Bovard style, and in imitation of the Spanish style and Latin American - incredibly popular dresses and blouses with polka dots, berets and turbans. The turban was so popular with Soviet women that those who could not buy a finished product simply tied a striped scarf in a special manner, with the tips up, making a large knot on the crown of the head, thus creating something imitating the semblance of the aforementioned headdress. Also in fashion are a variety of felt hats and hats with veils, miniature leather or silk envelope bags, and in the 40s they began to wear small shoulder bags with a long thin strap.

In the USSR at this time, original or stylized Spanish and Latin American songs performed by Klavdia Shulzhenko, Isabella Yurieva, and Pyotr Leshchenko were very popular. And although the songs performed by Pyotr Leshchenko were not heard in the Soviet Union, since the former subject Russian Empire After the revolution, he found himself in the territory ceded to Romania, his records reached the domestic expanses in a roundabout way, mainly from Bessarabia, Western Ukraine and the Baltic states, which were included in the USSR in 1940.

In the evening fashion the romantic direction prevailed. For fashionable evening and elegant dresses The 40s are characterized by slightly flared skirts, a neckline, a tight-fitting bodice or a draped bodice, and small puffed sleeves. More often evening dresses They were made from crepe satin, fadeshine or thick silk, crepe georgette, crepe marroquin, velvet, pan velvet and pan chiffon, trimmed with lace and flower appliqués, and beads. White lace collars are very common. The main addition to the exit toilet was considered to be a silver fox boa. Beads and large brooches were especially popular among jewelry.

In the early 1940s, flared gabardine coats with large padded shoulders, often with raglan sleeves, became very fashionable. In addition, double-breasted coats and coats of fitted silhouettes with a belt are popular. Soviet models outerwear of that period corresponded to world fashion trends. In addition to gabardine in the USSR, coats were made from Boston wool, cord, carpet and from the most common fabrics of those years - foulé, drape, drape velor, rattin, broadcloth and beaver.

The 1940s are the era of platform and wedge shoes. Women all over the world preferred to wear similar shoes. A very fashionable model were shoes with open toes and heels, high heels, and having a platform under the toe. In the USSR, there were practically no such shoes; only a select few could wear fashionable “platforms.” Most platforms in those days were hand-planed from wood, and then straps or vamps made of fabric or scraps of leather were stuffed onto them. It turned out something like fashionable shoes. One of the most common models women's shoes In the 1940s, our country had lace-up low shoes with small heels and pumps.

In winter, fashionistas dreamed of getting boots called “Romanian”, again with a small heel, lace-up, but lined with fur on the inside and trimmed with fur trim on the outside. Why they were called “Romanians” is unknown; perhaps in the 1940s, this shoe model came to the Soviet country from annexed Bessarabia. But, often, both women and men had to be content with felt boots, or burkas, which were popular at that time - warm high boots with a boot made of thin felt and a bottom trimmed with genuine leather.

Good shoes was in short supply, and was not cheap, so on the feet of Soviet women one could often see rough models that bore little resemblance to elegant shoes from fashion magazines. Fildepers seamed stockings, a fetish of the 40s, were very difficult to obtain, and the prices for these stockings were simply unreal. Stockings were such a shortage, and such an object of dreams, that women drew the seam and heel on their legs with a pencil, imitating a stocking on a bare leg. True, during the Second World War, such problems existed in many European countries. In the USSR, white socks became an alternative to the coveted stockings. A girl in a dress with padded shoulders or puffed sleeves, white socks and pumps with small heels or sandals is a kind of symbol of the era of the 40s.

Short, wavy hair, so popular in the 1930s, gradually came out in the 1940s. fashion, it was difficult to do them yourself; many hairdressers closed during this period. Women began to grow their hair because long hair could be made into a hairstyle without outside help it was easier. Long hair curls, rollers and ring styling, laid out above the forehead, as well as all kinds of hairstyles with braids, have become established in world fashion. The most common hairstyles of the war years among Soviet women were a roller above the forehead and a bun at the back, often covered with a net, or a roller and hair twisted with Marseille tongs or pinned at the back, as well as the so-called lamb braids and a basket - two braids with a tip one is attached to the base of the other. Fashionable scents of the 40s were the same “Red Moscow”, “Silver Lily of the Valley” and “Carmen”, and TEZHE cosmetic products were invariably in great demand.

Fashion magazines in the USSR continued to be published during the war years. Fashionable clothes of the forties could be seen in the “Fashion Magazine”, “Models of the Season”, “Fashion”, etc. But, if we talk specifically about fashion, then this facet was present in the life of a relatively small circle of people, fashion was not accessible to everyone, and The problem of “fashionable or not fashionable” did not really worry Soviet citizens. Most were preoccupied with thoughts of getting at least some clothes and saving money to buy essential things. Life was very difficult and unsettled. If residents of the capital and large cities lived in conditions of scarcity and overcoming difficulties, with little interest in fashion, then for the outback the concept of fashion was something incomprehensible, distant and insignificant.

Since the mid-1930s, stores in large cities began to be more or less filled with goods, but in small towns there was still no abundance. The level of commodity shortages in different areas of the USSR varied greatly. The smallest deficit was in Moscow and Leningrad, from union republics- in the Baltic states. Each settlement in the USSR was assigned to a certain “supply category,” and there were 4 of them in total (special, first, second and third). The flow of out-of-town buyers to Moscow was constantly increasing. Huge queues grew outside large department stores.

In Soviet periodicals of the 1930s, one could read articles by representatives of the retail trade who complained that buyers were mainly interested in inexpensive products, and, for example, they could not afford the silk dresses that factories supplied to stores, and also talked about the problems of poor quality sewing at sewing factories, which is why it was often necessary to give items received by the store for modification to cooperative artels. In addition, from the publications it followed that sellers independently ordered batches of clothing from cooperatives and personally agreed on the styles of ordered models.

With the beginning of the war in the USSR, shops, fashion studios and other institutions related to the fashion and beauty industry began to close. Soon, a card system for the distribution of goods, due to wartime, was reintroduced on the territory of the USSR. The scale of destruction and disaster was such that it seemed that the nascent Soviet fashion will not be reborn again. The war quickly left its mark on the appearance of people. Hundreds of thousands of girls and boys who went from school to the front simply did not have time to learn what fashion was; they had to put on military uniforms. Many women who remained in the rear performed heavy and dirty work Instead of the men who went to the front, they dug trenches, worked in hospitals, extinguished lighters on the roofs of houses. Instead of fashionable clothes Trousers, padded jackets and tarpaulin boots entered women's lives.

At the end of the war, in 1944, the Soviet government decided to promote the revival of modeling fashionable clothes in the country and opened a fashion house in Moscow on the famous “fashion street” since the 18th century - Kuznetsky Most, house number 14. A new one has begun important stage in the history of the Soviet fashion industry. The best fashion designers in the country were supposed to develop new models of clothing for Soviet people, and clothing factories were going to be obliged to produce products not at their own discretion, but only according to the patterns of the most successful model samples. There was such an intention back in the late 1930s, but the war prevented all this from being put into practice on a national scale.

The USSR intended to demonstrate to the world the benefits of a centralized socialist economy. It was decided that promising development fashion should be associated with ensemble modeling, which involved the creation of a single costume concept. In those difficult war years, when the whole world was experiencing difficulties in the field of light industry, the idea of ​​ensemble modeling was extremely strange, since its implementation required significant financial investments. The state approach to the development of fashion in the country opened up the prospect for the authorities to control what the population wears, regulate fashion trends, contrasting the Soviet fashion bourgeois. The transfer of the country's light industry, which worked almost entirely for the needs of the army, to a peaceful basis was inevitable. It was necessary to begin to master the production of household items by clothing factories.

A unified centralized system of clothing modeling in the USSR was created gradually and went through several main periods in its development. At the first stage, in 1944 - 1948, only a few regional fashion houses functioned in the largest cities, among which the leading place was occupied by the Moscow Model House (MDM). In addition to Moscow, in the 40s, Model Houses were opened in Kyiv, Leningrad, Minsk and Riga. At the end of the war, the state, which advocated the revival of clothing design, had no funds for fashion. Therefore, the Moscow Model House (MDM) was obliged to work on the principles of self-sufficiency. It was planned that garment workers would order and pay for MDM to design models fashionable clothes implemented in factories. But the enterprises did not want to order anything; it was more profitable for them to put into production antediluvian models of their own making, made according to old patterns, thereby replicating out-of-fashion, low-quality products. The situation was aggravated by high demand - any more or less cheap and practical clothing was sold out instantly. In addition to clothing factories, numerous artels were engaged in tailoring, producing cheap products of low quality, which, due to shortages, were in constant demand. So the advantages of a centralized socialist economy over a capitalist one were very doubtful.

The Moscow Fashion House was obliged to proactively develop and offer new clothing models to garment workers, working at a loss. Since modeling turned out to be unprofitable, the main source of livelihood was orders from a structure called Glavosobtorg. MDM not only developed new models fashionable clothes, but also sewed them in small batches, which were then successfully sold through commercial stores in the capital and exemplary specialty department stores that appeared in the country back in the 1930s. The resolution on the widespread deployment of a network of commercial food stores, manufactured goods department stores and restaurants of Glavosobtorg was adopted by the Council of People's Commissars of the USSR on March 18, 1944. The need for this measure was explained by the concern for improving the supply of Soviet workers, or rather, their individual representatives. The resolution stated that workers in science, technology, art, literature, as well as senior officers of the Red Army have significant funds, but with the existing system of rationed supply they do not have the opportunity to buy high-quality goods in the assortment they need, and in the commercial stores and exemplary stores that have opened In department stores they could purchase them within the limits of one-handed holiday rates. Limit books were also put into circulation, with coupons which could be used to partially pay in the commercial network.

During the First World War, despite economic difficulties in many European countries, life on the home front went on almost as before. Women from privileged strata of society dressed up, and fashion houses continued their work. In letters from the war years, preserved until today, you can easily verify this, as the women described the entertainment and their purchased outfits.

Things were different during World War II. During these years, fighting covered vast areas of Europe. The lives of many were in danger, and economic difficulties befell almost all countries. Due to the war, the production of civilian clothing almost ceased. Many women put on men's military uniforms and joined the ranks of the defenders of their Fatherland.

Women's clothing has undergone significant changes, although there were no major revolutions in fashion in the 40s, but a masculine style clearly emerged. Civilian clothing was supplemented with military details - belts, buckles, epaulettes, patch pockets. Women learned to be thrifty and each became her own designer. A habit arose of walking bareheaded, or at least wearing a scarf twisted into a turban.

Clothes from the early forties until 1946 were shortened and widened at the shoulders, and the waist was clearly defined. A thin waist emphasized fragility and grace, because even in military uniform a woman remained a woman.

In women's toilets, the waist was cinched with a wide belt, creating a contrast between wide shoulders, a circle skirt and a thin waist. The shoulders were expanded with puffs or special pads called “shoulders.” In coats, in order to emphasize the horizontal line of the shoulders, collars were sometimes completely absent, even in winter coats and fur coats.

On summer dresses short “wing” sleeves appeared. The kimono sleeve, which at that time was called " bat", to clearly preserve the volume and wide shoulders, they were made on a lining.

Popular details in the fashion of the 40s were a variety of pockets, especially large ones, as well as collars, the ends of which reached the middle of the bodice. The costumes were very long jacket, often close to men's jackets, and also with broad shoulders, and short skirt. A feature of the 40s was wearing a jacket not only with a skirt, but also with an ordinary colorful dress.

Skirts were popular - flared, pleated, ruffled. Particular preference was given to draperies, gathers, wedges, folds, and pleating. Evening dresses, and such they were, represented long skirts floor-length, hip-hugging and flared at the bottom, narrow lace sleeves, bare shoulders or kimono sleeves. Trousers came into everyday use, as stockings were simply a luxury.

The silhouette changed - its shape could be rectangular, more often this shape referred to a coat; in the form of two triangles, the vertices of which were joined together at the waist line (coat and dress); in the form of a square (a square suit jacket with a narrow short pencil skirt). These silhouettes emphasized long thin legs with shoes with thick soles (platforms) made of cork or wood, shoes with high heels, as well as sports shoes with flat soles or boots with tops. This silhouette shape lasted until 1946.

Women loved these geometric lines so much that the transition to smoother, more natural lines after 1946 was difficult for many. In some countries that were particularly hard hit during the war, coats were made from wool or even cotton blankets.

Elegant dresses and even underwear were made from parachute silk. The fallen parachutes were perfect fabric to create beautiful dresses. And the first who came up with the idea of ​​using them were French and German women, although severe punishment was provided for picking up a parachute in Germany.

Wool, leather, nylon and silk were strategically important materials in the 40s. That is why, when there was a shortage of leather in fascist Italy, cork heels appeared on shoes from, which Adolf Hitler’s girlfriend loved so much.

Was there costume jewelry during the war? Definitely. Those who could afford a lot, even during the war, wore gold and silver chains - this was the most fashionable decoration, and those who had straitened circumstances wore simple metal chains.

Brooches and clips were universally loved by women of the 40s. The women decorated their outfits themselves - some with fringes made of threads, it was difficult to even say from what product, some embroidered with angora wool, and some with artificial flowers. Flowers, flowers, hairnets, knitted with their own hands, they were the ones who helped women out during those difficult war years. Both hair and hats were decorated with nets.

These things achieved especially high craftsmanship in Poland. Buttons in the 40s were also special - covered with the same fabric as the fabric of the dress (where to find the same buttons at that time). Visiting dresses had many of these small round buttons. Women wore bags on a belt over their shoulders, sometimes they sewed them themselves from the same material as the coat. Fur was rare. But those who could afford it certainly wore it. They especially loved fur muffs.

During the war, high-quality materials disappeared in European countries, production switched to the production of strategically important products and, of course, weapons. Therefore, in the 40s, combined products were especially fashionable - fabrics and fur from old stocks, fabrics of different textures and colors, tulle for elegant dresses became fashionable. After all, in order to appear at an evening celebration, you could sacrifice your luxurious curtain.

Women tried to find opportunities and showed unusual ingenuity and imagination, who was capable of what. Everyone was united in one thing - color. Many wore dark colors, the main color was black. The most fashionable combination was black and yellow; white has almost disappeared.

However, despite all misfortunes, a person, like a blade of grass to the sun, reaches out to life, to love. And this is confirmed by songs of the war years, music, poetry, films.

In Russia, and then in the Soviet Union, there were few opportunities to afford what was said about the fashion of 1940-1946, mainly there were “padded jackets”, tunics, short skirts with counter pleats, tightened with a military belt, a scarf on the head or a hat with earflaps, rough boots and the desire to win. The only thing that was possible for girls of the 40s was to put on their favorite pre-war dress and twist their hair into curls, fashionable at that time of war. And what happiness there was during a short respite on the fronts of our Motherland, when the accordion player had the opportunity to stretch the bellows of his accordion friend, and our girls (our grandmothers and great-grandmothers) started dancing, or heard the words of songs that warmed the soul.

...And the accordion sings to me in the dugout
About your smile and eyes...
Sing, harmonica, to spite the blizzard.
Call lost happiness.
I feel warm in a cold dugout
From your unquenchable love.

And women in Russia began to dress in the style of the military of the 40s only after the war, at a time when Dior offered his own to the women of Europe. At this time, the first fashion magazines appeared in Russia, brought from Europe by the wives of Soviet officers. Those appeared combination dresses, which practical German and Austrian women sewed in the war 40s, a horizontal line of shoulders with “shoulders” or, as we called them, “linden” (linden shoulders). After the war, our young grandmothers took everything that was left from their old wardrobe, altered it, combined it, and embroidered it.

The most devastating war in European history was over...

Fashion, contrary to claims that it is independent of politics, is directly related to it. Here you can quote the words of the famous French writer Anatole France - show me the clothes of a certain country, and I will write its history.

Fashion is always inspired by youth and nostalgia and often takes inspiration from the past. Lana Del Rey.

What exactly was the style of clothing that was fashionable in the 40s is hard to say for sure. Just recently, the world enjoyed revealing silk silhouettes while imposingly sipping cigarettes in long cigarette holders. If it weren’t for the war, the glamorous morals and fashion of the 30s would have smoothly flowed into the 40s, transforming into some kind of shocking modernism, because it was an era of enormous achievements... Now, studying the fashion of the forties, you conclude that it really was “iron time”, for people with an iron will and love of life. After all, despite all the fear and horror, people continued to strive for beauty.

Clothing style of the 40s: photos of fashionable clothes of that time

Stylish American women pose with a car. New York, 1943.

German Frau on shopping. Berlin, 1943.

Unique footage: the wives of German officers at a social reception. These are truly gorgeous ladies! 1940

For the most complete perception of this historical era, we suggest watching an advertisement for women's clothing, it was shown in the USA in 1940. This is one of the first advertisements, it evokes an indescribable feeling!

Distinctive features of clothes that were in trend in those years

There was no longer the same luxury in clothing, since at that time fashion was dictated by difficult military conditions and strict restrictions on the consumption of materials. Nevertheless, people, even in such troubled times, wanted and managed to remain beautiful.

Notice what a huge variety of hats ladies have! Hats are an absolute trend and phenomenon of this time.

Beach fashion looks very liberated! Some brave girls even put them on two-piece swimsuits- unprecedented debauchery!

Before 1940, two thirds of the population lived in villages, and now almost two thirds live in the city. Before the war, almost all of our wives were housewives, but now women have “dual” employment - both at work and at home.

How did women dress in the 1940s?

How did people dress in the forties? “Modesty and emphasis” - this is how the trends of the 40s were designated. In the first half of the decade, pleats and flares were prohibited - they were replaced by a straight knee-length skirt. Such a strict style of clothing was chosen simply because of the economy of fabric. The wardrobes and demands of fashionistas were very modest. The military style was evident throughout; some clothing details could be used in both men's and women's suits. For example, blouses of that time were similar to regular shirts. Jackets had square shoulders, jackets always had padded hangers.

Images from the life of occupation France: a cinema for German soldiers. Champs Elysees, 1940.

This is what ordinary Englishmen looked like. Glasgow, 1942.

Paris.

It became a little easier in the second half of the forties. The clothes were of restrained tones, the whole world expressed mourning and grief of war devastation. Gray-blue, muted green, brown colors. Young people, of course, liked products made from fabrics with polka dots or checkered patterns.

The styles of the dresses repeated such elements as high collars, puffed sleeves (necessarily with shoulder pads) to make the shoulders appear broad and square, and the waist was highlighted with a thick belt. The length of dresses and skirts was strictly below the knee. Shoes then were worn with high thick heels, pumps or platform shoes. Sandals were very popular, but those who liked to dress in the old fashioned way wore retro shoes (Oxfords).

Only rich, stylish women could afford nylon stockings, because at that time nylon products were very expensive. It got to the point that women who were unable to buy stockings would add seams and heels to their bare legs. Accessories included a small hat and a bag - a reticule.

Men's fashion of the 40s: military is in trend!

This period did not stand out in any way in men's casual fashion. Men's style dictated by military uniform.

Examples of men's suits. Clippings from American magazines.

A special word needs to be said for the modest designer, the great couturier - Christian Dior. The heyday of his creativity coincided with this difficult period. The maestro experienced poverty and all the hardships of the fascist regime, but nevertheless was able to break through and grow into a powerful tree - the House of Haute Couture Dior.

Retro photo of Dior haute couture

11 Mar 1948, Paris, France — Stockings were highlighted for the first time when Christian Dior (right), noted French designer, exhibited his French collection. The hose, which either continued the dress’ color scheme from hem to ankles or afforded a direct contrast, ranged in shades from tender peach to ink black. The colors are called “Boulevard Banquet.” Here a model swirls the skirt of a light blue crepe dress to feature the sheer navy blue stockings. — Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS

Models women's dresses from Dior, 1947.

Dior's models have always been distinguished by some special charm. Christian himself called it - New Look. Romantic line, with a new version of crinoline, thin waist and an adjacent bodice. In this silhouette he embodied own performance about femininity, which was so lacking during the war era with its uniforms and “labor service” for women.

The Second World War, as we know, turned into the Great Patriotic War hit the USSR extremely hard and left colossal consequences. What kind of fashion could we talk about when 99% of the population at least had problems with nutrition, and at most, was dressed in a soldier’s uniform or a concentration camp vest. After 1945, when the reconstruction of production and the return to peaceful life began, Fashion magazine appeared in large cities.

Soviet women happily spend their evenings reading them, drawing on the most interesting ideas, because the main purpose of the magazine was patterns. The United States also had a huge influence on the clothing of Soviet citizens, sending its humanitarian aid. You can imagine what a shock the “free” and beautiful American clothes caused among our hungry people.

American fashion of the forties. This is what the winners should have looked like!

In the post-war period, well-trained fashion designers could not be found, the equipment was outdated, which meant that high fashion in the USSR it was very difficult and almost impossible. But still there were ideas, somehow they were realized and brought to life. On manual sewing machines, buzzing in the distant rooms of communal apartments, all families were sewn, and absolutely all their clothes were sewn - from underpants to jackets. They sewed dresses and sundresses, trousers and skirts, overalls, suits and even wedding dresses.

Colored fabrics and fabrics with patterns were sold out in stores at the speed of light, regardless of price. Dresses made from them looked very beautiful (velvet was especially fashionable). At that time, you could give a girl a piece of good Baltic fabric and seriously win her favor.

Watch the video about the phenomenon of Soviet fashion below.

Fashionistas sewed wool coats with a slightly flared style. This was not particularly important, since any coat, be it double-breasted or fitted, was always complemented by a wide leather belt. It was also fashionable to knit clothes, because it was very economical - anything could be unraveled into threads and re-knit into a completely different product.

As for accessories, Soviet fashionistas wore envelope-like handbags, shoulder bags and small leather handbags. The Baltic countries were a kind of “shop” for fashionable things; perfumes, fabrics, brooches and beads, and various “Western-style” clothes were brought from there.

Fashion in the Union began to revive right up to the end of the 40s, when the Moscow House of Models opened. It was there that clothing models for the masses were developed. Such masters as Nadezhda Makarova, Antonina Donskaya, Tamara Turchanovskaya, Valeria Nikolaevskaya and many others delighted the female half with their fashionable works. At any time, whether they are easy or difficult, women strive to look charming. This is our nature.

Look from 40s: retro look in modern times

Without a doubt, even now the trends of that time remain relevant. After all, the images of women were designed for completely different values. Girls did not strive to show off their bodies, as they do now. And the styles were comfortable and practical, which is why they are still in fashion and are copied everywhere in the images of current celebrities.

In Soviet fashion of the late 1930s. There was a noticeable trend towards Western standards. This was due to the fact that as a result of the Molotov-Ribbentropp Pact, the Baltic states, part of Poland, Western Ukraine and Bessarabia were occupied by Soviet troops.

These were territories with a fairly developed fashion industry - there were a number of high-quality fashion studios, shoe and hat industries, french perfume and so on. For Soviet military personnel, officers and, especially, their wives, all this, as well as the abundance of goods and fabrics itself, was a great novelty.

It was considered one of the most elegant cities in the annexed territories. Lviv. As soon as it was occupied, Soviet artists began to tour there with great willingness, since they could bring fabrics, furs, clothes, bags and accessories from there.

In 1940 as a result of the Finnish War, part of Finland became part of the USSR. In the city of Vyborg (formerly Finnish Vyppuri), for example, at that time there were already electric refrigerators.

Many of these cities were depopulated when the Soviet troops arrived - for example, the Finns, retreating, left Vyborg untouched. The apartments were filled with furniture, bed and table linen, wardrobes with clothes, refrigerators and pantries with food, etc.

Anel Sudakevich in a fashionable cloth coat, with padded shoulders and a fashionable felt hat (1 photo)

According to the recollections of participants in the events, it is known that during the capture of Vyborg, a decision was made - to let the main units into the city only after three days, and during this time, by all available means, “to deprive the city of its bourgeois luster,” i.e. create the appearance of devastation and collapse, rather than bourgeois comfort and cleanliness.

This decision was dictated by the fact that it was impossible to silence so many soldiers and military personnel who could widely disseminate information that bourgeois life turns out to be much more comfortable, beautiful and pleasant than Soviet life. Events developed similarly in Vilnius, Kaunas, Riga...

The Soviet leadership was very afraid of direct contact with large masses of the population abroad. But, despite all the protective measures, it was impossible to completely exclude this contact, so Western trends in fashion still began to influence the USSR.

Second World War became a landmark event that influenced all aspects of life without exception, not only in the USSR, but throughout the world. She also had a radical influence on world fashion.

Men everywhere went to the front - women were left alone. They had no one else to dress for, and there was nothing to dress in, and there was absolutely no time to dress at all, since the numerous harsh hardships of wartime fell on their shoulders. Everyday life became scanty, heavy and often dangerous - this naturally led to the fact that people began to dress in such a way as to be invisible. The defining qualities of clothing were its functionality, warmth, comfort, durability and non-staining.

Silhouette women's suit during the war it becomes militarized. In particular, padded shoulders in women's clothing became a striking sign of that time. They were proposed by Elsa Schiaparelli back in the 1935 collection, and with the onset of the war they took a leading position in the silhouette, expanding and increasing in size from year to year.

Photo. Leningrad, 1946 Honored Artist of the Leningrad Musical Comedy Theater L.A. Kolesnikova in a fashionable dress with padded shoulders. The dress is trimmed with a muslin polka dot collar and mother-of-pearl buttons; The outfit is complemented by a leather black and white belt.

There were shoulder pads mandatory element and summer blouses, and winter dresses, and a coat. They reached their apogee by 1947, when they were swept away by a new wave of the New Look proposed by Christian Dior.

The main trend in European women's fashion in the 1940s. there was an imitation of the Tyrolean-Bavarian costume- this happened latently and did not express any political tendencies; clothing characteristic of this style was worn equally widely both in Germany and in the USSR.

The main elements of this style include, first of all, the puff sleeve; as well as blouses, sundresses, very flared items with a waist just past the knee.

The fabric was mainly used in drawing. The fashionable design of this era were small flower bouquets on staples, chintz, and crepe de Chine. But the most popular pattern during the war years was, of course, polka dots.

Photo. A fashion model wearing a stylish model by Elena Efimova from the Art Fund atelier, reflecting the influence of Western fashion. Photo by G. Petrousov, “Soviet Woman”, 1946, No. 4.

1930s haircuts and styling with waves went out of fashion automatically for obvious reasons - hairdressers were closed, there were no hairdressers. Accordingly, the hair becomes long - the shorter the hair, the more often you need to go to the hairdresser to maintain your hairstyle, and long hair you can simply remove it without resorting to the services of a professional.

Problems with hair care shaped the most popular hairstyle of the war years - a bun above the forehead and a bun at the back, often covered with mesh.

Makeup of this time is, first of all, bright lips- in an era of scarcity of men, manliness is welcomed, lips are drawn above and below their natural boundaries, which makes the mouth larger.

Plucked eyebrows completed the look; just like a cigarette or cigarette is a constant companion of difficult times.

Stockings are becoming even more scarce than in previous years - to the point that women draw the seam and heel on their legs with a pencil, imitating a stocking on a bare leg. White socks became an alternative to the missing stockings. A dress with padded shoulders, white socks and sandals is a typical female look of those years.

1940s - this is the era of platform shoes. It was invented earlier, but historically it goes back to antiquity and Ancient China, however, it was during the war years that the platform gained unprecedented popularity, since it was an affordable way out of the situation - it could be made independently.

Most of the platforms of this time were hand-planed from linden, and then straps or vamps made of fabric, scraps of leather, etc. were stuffed onto them. It was the war that introduced completely new materials for the production of shoes - for the first time in the USA, plastic shoes appeared - after all, all shoe leather was used for the needs of the army.

For obvious reasons, much less was thought about jewelry during the war years than before the war. Blown gold jewelry has become popular, which made it possible to make a supposedly massive product from a small amount of gold, but in fact it was empty inside.

Photo: Movie star Lyubov Orlova in fashionable open dress with a wide layered skirt in the style of Christian Dior models. Numerous jewelry, gold bracelets and diamond rings, makeup, hairstyle and manicure indicate more femininity in Soviet fashion of the 1950s. Photo by G. Weil. Moscow, 1952

The Spanish theme was no less popular than the Tyrolean-Bavarian theme during the war. Popular pre-war tunes included Rio Rita, samba, rumba and cha-cha-cha, dances of Caribbean origin.

They were especially popularized through the United States, where there is a traditional love for everything foreign. Since the United States was cut off from Europe by war, its closest Spanish-speaking foreign countries were Cuba, Jamaica and Mexico. The influence of the Spanish-Caribbean theme in wartime fashion was very strong and was manifested in the popularity of polka dots (a traditional Andalusian pattern); flowers and combs in hair.

Turbans common at this time also came not from the Muslim East, as one might think, but from Cuba, where workers on sugar cane plantations wrapped their heads with such turbans.

Hats continued to be fashionable throughout the war.. As soon as the siege of Moscow and the blockade of Leningrad were lifted, the hat-makers hastened to return from evacuation from the Urals, Volga, Central Asia, etc. 1940s - this is the era of home-based hatmakers - in communal apartments, “hat studios” were set up right in the only living room of the craftswoman, which served as a bedroom, a workshop, and a salon.

Photo. Film actress Lyudmila Tselikovskaya in a fashionable English suit with padded shoulders. Fashionable Felt hat covered with a thick veil. Moscow, 1947

Military fashion in the USSR was divided into two categories - fashion of the occupied zone and fashion of the rear.

Many territories were occupied for two years - a significant period during which the local population was in contact with the Germans, and, one way or another, information was exchanged and Western views were introduced.

In all occupied territories, the Nazis opened inexpensive cinemas en masse, which constantly showed German films, mostly of an entertaining nature, with typically German stars like Marika Reck. These films were intended to accustom the population of the occupied territories to the image of a cozy and beautiful German life.

In the rear, there were other ways of penetration of Western fashion ideas.

Since 1942, the American Red Cross, helping the USSR, has become send clothing parcels with American clothing. These were used items that were sent in bags completely free of charge and distributed free of charge locally - in educational institutions, in factories, hospitals, etc.

These were items of completely new styles for the USSR, made from fabrics unknown here.

Thus, despite the reluctance of the Soviet leadership, the West invaded the USSR with its fashionable ideas. There was contact with the Western world, which enriched and broadened the horizons of Soviet people.

Photo. German film actress Madi Rahl in a white blouse with puffy sleeves in bavarian style and in a plaid cropped skirt. Munich, 1941

Even during the war, Soviet fashion magazines continued to be published. The most popular was "Models of the Season" magazine, which was released in black and white on wrapping paper in pocket format. It featured reprints from American and, oddly enough, German fashion magazines.

The fashionable fabrics described in these magazines were panvelvet and panchiffon (chiffon with a velvet pattern); crepe de chine, crepe georgette and crepe marroquin. Many of these fabrics began to appear in thrift stores already in 1944 - these were the first trophies from Hungary, Czechoslovakia, Romania, Manchuria, Harbin, etc.

Trophies and trophy fashion In general, they were an absolutely outstanding phenomenon of the post-war period. The eyes of Soviet soldiers entering European countries were presented with a completely unprecedented way of life and such items of material life that no one could even imagine. A real stream of trophies poured into their homeland, the USSR - they brought absolutely everything - furniture, clothing, dishes, household items...

Having reached the USSR, these items were sold to thrift stores and flea markets. Crowd markets were organized already at the end of the war at railway stations near Moscow. Many goods, hitherto completely unavailable in the USSR, began to be sold en masse.

Photo. Bolshoi Theater soloist Natalya Shpiller in a fashionable trophy suit with silver fox trim and a stylish velvet turban with a veil mantilla. Vienna, 1945

It is with the unfamiliarity of Soviet people with Western items that some of the oddities of trophy fashion are associated - for example, there are cases when luxurious items of linen, such as richly decorated peignoirs and nightgowns, were mistaken for evening dresses and dressed as such. In addition to the actual toilet items, the USSR also received a large number of Western fashion magazines, cinema, postcards with images of movie stars, etc., which, of course, also had an impact strong influence the way you dress.

The image of a “trophy beauty” has become the most fashionable.

One of the chic fashion accessories become trophy watches and jewelry. The most popular trophy decorations were red garnets of Czech origin. There was a boom in everything fur - in the post-war years it was simply necessary to have a fur current, collar, muff, boa, etc.

One cannot fail to mention the colossal influence of captured films.. Western movie stars - Loretta Young (Jung), Marika Rekk, Zara Leander and others - have become fashionable symbols and role models. Domestic film actresses - Marina Ladynina, Lidiya Smirnova, Lyudmila Tselikovskaya, Lyubov Orlova, Zoya Fedorova, Tatyana Okunevskaya, etc. - also styled their appearance, imitating Western stars, their makeup, hairstyles and manner of dressing.

Influenced by the great influx of information and goods, post-war fashion became significantly more feminine and sophisticated than in the previous period. It can be stated that as a result of the war, Soviet fashion underwent a noticeable bourgeoisification; women began to look more well-groomed, more interested in their outfits and appearance.

Photo. A Soviet tourist from the delegation of the Ministry of Culture during a trip to Italy in a fashionable striped dress with a nylon petticoat. In hands - an elegant bag on long belt. Italy, 1954

For a short time after the end of the war in the USSR, for the first time in all the years of Soviet power, there was favorable attitude towards foreign allies- Americans, British, French.

It was at this time that the first “hipsters” appeared in the USSR- young people imitating Western fashion.

They used all means to obtain and exchange American shoes and other clothes, listened to American jazz and danced boogie-woogie. Already in 1947 they were criticized in the magazine "Crocodile".

The short period of “fraternization” with the allies quickly ended, and the time of the Cold War began. All foreigners were expelled from the country, and manifestations of Western fashion began to be mercilessly fought again. In particular, the style proposed in 1947 by Christian Dior was declared the apotheosis of styling and criminal ideology. One of the main “harmful” qualities of this style was its sexuality, which, as we know, was always recognized by Soviet ideology as practically a crime.

In the same year, 1947, the magazine "Soviet Woman" published a letter with big amount signatures called "Let's fight back Western fashions." Following this, similar “letters” and publications swept across the Soviet press in a wide wave, explaining how unideological, unnecessary and harmful it was for a Soviet woman to copy Western models.

In 1944, the All-Union Model House on Kuznetsky Most opened and began publishing its own magazine in the USSR.

Photo Group of dudes in fashionable dresses And patent leather shoes in low heels. Moscow, 1958

At the turn of the 1949-1950s. Mao Zedong visited the USSR - the era of the Great Friendship between the USSR and China began, lasting until the end of the 1950s. Large-scale trade with China began, which made it possible to clothe the population of the USSR in the products of Chinese light industry.

A stream of so-called floods poured into the USSR. "Chinese consumer goods"- things that captured the imagination of Soviet people, because they were bright, colorful, high quality, affordable and never seen before in the USSR. Chinese-made goods entered the everyday life and wardrobe of Soviet people widely and for a long time.

Men's fashion of this period, 1940-1950s. has also undergone significant changes. As a result of the war, many high-quality Jewish men's tailors appeared in the USSR, who became refugees from Western territories, fleeing fascism.

The entire Soviet leadership after the war was dressed by Jewish tailors from Poland and Lithuania. The main tailor of the Soviet elite was tailor Singer. Shoes for the Soviet elite were made by Armenian shoemakers from among those who returned to the USSR after the war from Syria and Lebanon.

Men's fashion has not changed as quickly as women's. The trophy influence affected her mainly in the field of fabrics and the cut of jackets. In the 1940s The fashion for shirts with soft collars without a tie spread.

Photo. Model from Christian collections Dior in the New Look, Paris, 1947

The New Look style, proposed in 1947 by Christian Dior, despite all the persecution, nevertheless penetrated into the USSR in a roundabout way, although it took from six to ten years. This style offered a completely new female silhouette- without shoulder pads, with sloping shoulders; with a bust raised by grace; a very tight waist and a very wide skirt at 1.5-2 sun on petticoats. At first, the new silhouette was met with hostility not only in the USSR, but also in the West.

Society, accustomed during the war years to the rather masculine appearance of a woman as a fighting friend, was not ready to accept new image, which embodied sophistication and femininity. After many years of material hardships and shortages of goods, the colossal consumption of fabric that was required to make these multi-layered sparkling skirts was also viewed with disapproval. Not to mention the fact that New Look required women to change their entire wardrobe - get petticoats, laces, stockings, bikini panties, stilettos, etc., change their hairstyle and ensure a thin waist.

However, despite all this, the new style was doomed to success, since women, who had lost a huge number of men in the war, were placed in conditions of fierce competition, which only the sexiest could win, namely sex appeal was the highlight of the New Look style.

In 1949, Christian Dior also proposed a narrow silhouette, which, of course, was also indignantly condemned by Soviet ideology as bourgeois, depraved and inappropriate for a woman - the builder of communism.

In 1955, already under Khrushchev, Yves Saint Laurent came to the House of Christian Dior, who introduced large bows, guipure and the Y line silhouette into fashion.

In the USSR, there was no talk of any New Look until the death of Stalin in 1953. And later, all this still remained outside the horizons of the Soviet woman, whose ideas about fashion continued to be limited to trophy and Chinese fashion.

The New Look style finally established itself in the USSR only in 1956., with the release of the film “ Carnival Night", in which Lyudmila Gurchenko is dressed in the Dior model proposed by him in 1947.