Processing a turn-down collar and stitching it into the neck. How to sew a turn-down collar An easy way to sew a stand-up collar into the neck

Tailoring a jacket or jacket is considered the pinnacle of tailoring. And not casually. Indeed, for high-quality tailoring of a jacket, you need to have a lot of skills and knowledge. But, as they say, the road will be mastered by the walking one, and our today's master class is devoted to one of the most important knots of the jacket - the processing of the collar. But first, some important theory.

To give the jacket a proper fit, improve the appearance of the product and preserve it during operation, the parts are duplicated with glue. Duplication can be done on special presses or, in the absence of presses, using an iron. The temperature of the ironing surface should be 150-160 degrees, pressing time 8-30 seconds. (depending on the type of adhesive material, pressure and temperature of the pressing surface). When duplicating at home, we recommend using a steam generator or duplicating parts through a moistened cotton cloth.

Interlining materials and duplication methods are selected depending on the fabric from which the product is sewn. Duplication is performed from the side of the gasket.

In jackets and jackets, the details of the shelves, coquettes, valves, leaflets, patch pockets, cuffs, straps, belts, etc. are duplicated. The details are duplicated in full or in part. The allowances along the bottom of the shelves, back and sleeves of the jacket must be duplicated with a gasket, the edge of the gasket should be located along the fold line.

In some cases - on men's jackets and coats - to create a more stable shape (according to the model), individual sections of the shelves are duplicated with additional padding in the chest or shoulder girdle.

The details of the gaskets are cut according to the same patterns as the main parts, the seam allowances are made minimal - 1-2 mm, or not made at all (to avoid excessive thickness at the seams).

To protect the structural lines and sections of jackets and coats from stretching, they are additionally glued with 10 mm wide strips cut along an oblique thread (edges of the sides, collar, lapel fold line).

After you have cut the jacket, the details of the shelf, selection and collar should be duplicated with thermal fabric. The fold line of the lapel, the cuts of the sides on the shelf, the edges of the collar are additionally strengthened with a strip of gasket cut along the oblique (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Strengthening the shelf with thermal fabric

Rice. 2. Cutting the allowance at the mark

Lay the pick on the shelf, right sides inward, stitch along the outer edge of the bead, to the collar stitching mark. Cut the allowances at the mark and at the lower point of the inflection of the lapel - not reaching the seam 2 mm (Fig. 2).

Cut off the allowances from the collar stitching mark to the bottom along the edge of the bead. At the corner, cut the allowance obliquely. If the lower edge of the bead is rounded in the jacket, cut the allowances on the rounded section in several places, cut the allowances with corners (Fig. 3). Try not to reach the seam 2-3 mm. Turn the hem to the front side, sweep cleanly along the outer edge to the upper notch (Fig. 4).

Rice. 3. Cut allowances along the sides

Rice. 4. Sweep the pick up to the notch

Sew the lower collar along the middle seam, cut the allowances at the place of the inflection of the collar (Fig. 5). Duplicate the detail of the upper collar on the corners (Fig. 6).

Rice. 5. Lower collar allowances

Rice. 6. Reinforce the top collar at the corners

Fold the top and bottom collar right sides, fold as shown in photo 7, pin off the edges, grind to the marks. Cut the allowances along the edges of the collar to a width of 0.4 cm, at the corner - cut the allowances to 0.2 cm (Fig. 8).

Rice. 7. Stitch the details of the collar to the marks

Rice. 8. Trim allowances at the corners of the collar

Turn the collar inside out and sweep cleanly around the edges, bend the collar giving it the position in which it will be in the product. Level the open edges of the collar with scissors (Fig. 9).

Rice. 9. Fold the collar, chip and trim

Sweep only the lower collar into the neck of the shelf along the short side between the control marks, sew (the seam is shown in red) (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10. The collar is tucked into the neck on the short side

How to sew a collar correctly? After all, this piece of clothing is the “face” of the product, which should lie flat and look beautiful. Depending on the type of fabric and style of the product, there are rules for working with the collar. We will consider some of them below.

Primary requirements

Before you start working on the collar stitch, we advise you to go over the basic rules and requirements.

1. The neckline and the collar itself must be identical in size.
2. According to the standard, the collar is made of two patterns (top and bottom). They are cut according to the same standards.
3. In order for the collar to lie beautifully and not bulge, the upper pattern (top of the collar) should be made slightly larger than the bottom of the product.
4. Depending on the fabric of the product, the size of the upper part of the collar changes. Thus, a thick fabric suggests a greater retreat than a thin one.

An easy way to sew on a collar

This method is the main one for sewing on flat collars. The main task is to put the finished collar between the neckline and facings. If you need to sew on a delayed collar, then this method is only suitable if the thing is made of thin and light fabric. Initially, you should prepare the main part of the thing:

• stitch and overcast shoulder sections;
• flatten the bar.

Start the tab of the collar fabric from the neck seam, then you need to sweep the collar into the neck. Do not forget that the lower collar should be at the bottom. Fix the collar with pins, sew on a typewriter and remove the pins.

How to sew a collar on a men's shirt?

If a men's shirt provides for a collar with a one-piece stand, then the following steps should be performed:

• Fold the bottom of the finished collar together face to face with the neck inward.
• Straighten and connect all previously set marks of the shoulder bevels and the center of the neck, the back of the shirt.
• Sew two pieces together. For such work, the step of the sewing machine is set to 0.7-1 cm.
• Next, tuck the edge 0.8 cm and baste or pin with pins.
• Sew the collar a little higher (up to 0.2 cm) from the fold.

If the collar has a cutting stand, then initially it is attached to the collar, and then the work steps described above are repeated.

Sewing on the collar with a backstitch

To sew a collar with a backstitch, it is necessary to put a part of the collar blank on the front of the neck, while the collar should be located 3-5 cm above the end of the neck. Bend the joint inward, wrapping the protruding 5 cm under the fold bar. Fix and sew from the edge of the fold at a distance of 0.1 cm

How to sew a single collar?

There are two ways to sew a single collar into the neck:

1. The first involves the use of inlay. Attach the collar to the edge of the neckline, fold over and attach a single-layer or double inlay, stitch it on top and bottom.
2. The second method is based on the use of turning. The collar is connected to the neck, and, as in the first case, it is bent. A facing is superimposed on top, which is fixed with two lines above and below, stepping back 0.1 cm from the edges of the inlay.

Before choosing a method for sewing on a collar, evaluate the density of the fabric, baste and try on the product. If everything is in order, then feel free to attach the collar.

Duplicate the collar detail. Fold the details of the collar and lower collar with the right sides to each other, turn the cuts, starting and ending the line strictly at the marked line of the collar stitching seam. It is important.

Trim seam allowances close to the seam. You can use zigzag scissors. We cut the allowances in steps: one allowance is slightly larger than the other. This ensures smooth eversion, without corners. And eliminates the need for notches on the rounding of the allowances.

Turn the collar inside out, sweep out, forming a roll towards the collar. Iron. Stitch the bead with the back facing along the shoulder sections, iron the seams. Pin the hem and the facing of the back neck to the jacket with the right side to the front side.
Lay a line along the cuts of the sides and cuts of the necks of the shelves to the transverse marks.

Sew the lower collar (collar) into the neck of the jacket, the upper collar into the neck of the collars and facing the neck. Shoulder seams are already stitched before.

This is how it looks from the front.

From the inside.

Iron the seam allowances for turning in the collar. It is more convenient to do this on the edge of a sleeve ironing board.

Pivot, turn the neckline to the wrong side. Accurately chop off the seams of the collars, stitch them close to the chipped seams.

Straighten the collar. Iron. You can start connecting the jacket with the lining.

Stitching a collar into the neck on thick and medium fabrics is very different from regular stitching. To thick we include such fabrics as cloth, drape, artificial and natural fur, leather of both types. That is, on all top, winter products, such as coats, fur coats, sometimes on raincoats, the collar must be sewn into the neck in the manner shown below.Therefore, among the sewing lessons, this one is one of the most important! Do not miss!

In a nutshell, what is the peculiarity of such stitching, then this is the following: if during normal stitching (light and medium-weight fabrics) the collar is inserted between the collar and neck (or collar and collar), then with thick fabrics, each side of the collar is sewn into the neck separately - one side goes directly to the neckline, and the other to the collar and facing, if the latter is present. That is, the rake line is thus performed twice.

You can see how ordinary collars are sewn in at the link: What is a ratchet, we look in the article.

A t Now let's take a closer look at how this is done specifically. In my example, the collar is a hood. But despite this, such a hood-collar in front looks like an ordinary collar and is made using collar technology. The finishing stitch on the collars, which will later be sewn into the neck using thick fabric technology, is usually done already on a fully finished product, because if it is done immediately, as is the case with normal sewing, it will interfere.

All photos are clickable to large sizes!

photo 1 . Hood - collar, pre-made and ready to be sewn into the neck

photo 2-3 . From swept out along the edge (on departure, if it really would be a simple collar). Please note that the inner part of the hood - collar is slightly shortened. This is already the first feature of working on thick fabrics: when bending, they have a greater thickness and therefore require trimming.

photo 4 . Similarly prepared for further processing and selection of coats

photo 5 . We begin to pin the collar to the neck of the product, pinning each side separately. In this case, it shows how the back of the collar is pinned to the neckline of the coat.

photo 6-7 . We baste along the hairpins, moving from the shelf of the coat to its selection. The other side of the collar is already applied to the selection

Total 22 large photos (!) with detailed instructions In order to gain access to the closed section, you needgo to the VIP group. Read the details here:

A jacket-type collar using lightweight technology is performed on light jackets and blouses. In order to properly stitch the collar and not get confused in terms, the photo below schematically shows all the main lines, dots and names that will be found in the article.

Preparing the collar for sewing into the neck

We duplicate the upper and lower collars with woven glue and fold the front sides with each other. With pins we cut off the departure line and the ends of the collar, bending it in the middle. So the top collar will be larger than the bottom.

We grind both collars, we sew along the bottom

We iron the departure of the collar and cut the allowances with a step. We sweep, rolling the seam on the lower collar, we steam it.

We sew the collar and check for symmetry before sewing into the neck. We put the labels of the points of the ledge.

Stitching the collar into the neck

By the time the collar is sewn in, the bead and collar must be stitched and ironed from the bottom to the ledge of the lapel. We tuck short sections of the pick-up and sweep it up if the product does not provide a lining. We connect the points of the ledge of the collar and lapel, cleaving them with pins.

From above we impose a selection, we chop off with pins or we sweep away all layers from the ledge of the lapel to the end of the rake line. We grind the side and the edge along the line of the ledge of the lapel, then - the rake, ending the line at the shoulder seam.
At the end of the rake line (in the corner), we make notches in the course of grinding, not reaching the line by 1 mm. If your skill is not great, we make notches before we start scribbling. Do not forget to reinforce the corner of the bead with a small piece of dublerin.

We cut out an oblique trim with a length equal to the length of the collar stand along the back plus 2-3 cm and a width of 3 cm. We combine the unsewn middle of the collar with the neck and the rest of the selection. We put a bait on top. We connect all the layers with a machine stitch.

We iron the seams. Having tucked the bias trim, close the neck and collar allowance and fasten it with running oblique stitches. We sweep the lapels and tack the short ends of the pick to the shoulder seams. With a single line we fix the ends of the pick-up and the oblique inlay.