What is a floral chypre scent? For example, women's chypre fragrances

27.09.2019

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What association do we have when we hear the word “chypre”? First of all, of course, the old Soviet cologne of the same name. Women wrinkle their noses: “Ugh, chypres are too masculine.” Is it so?

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The word “chypre”, as written in many sources, comes from the French word “Chypre” - this is the name of the island of Cyprus. And this name was also borne by the most famous of the early twentieth century, Chypre from Coty, in fact, the first chypre, after the appearance of which this group got its name. The composition of these perfumes included a mixture of oak moss, bergamot, patchouli, sandalwood and incense.

Usually the description of chypres ends here. How do chypres differ, for example, from the same glasses or oriental scents, you have to guess for yourself. Sometimes they mention oak moss, which is mandatory for chypres. Indeed, at one time it was in Cyprus, and also in the south of the Balkan Peninsula, that oak moss was collected for use in perfumery.

But let's return to the main characteristics of a chypre aroma. What are they? In a long search, from completely fragmentary information and reviews, as well as after numerous tests, we were able to identify the following signs:

The base contains mossy notes that add a slight earthiness.
Mandatory citrus (specifically, bergamot) start.
The overall three-dimensionality and not too strong density of the composition, but at the same time a feeling of great depth.
Optionally, the composition contains patchouli (to enhance the earthy note) and cistus (aka labdanum) - to enhance the depth of the composition.
General restraint of aroma. No magnificent barbarism, no unbridledness - a straight back, an aristocratic posture, a subtle half-smile.

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The most popular chypres were in the 50s and 60s of the 20th century. Currently, unfortunately, the use of oak moss is prohibited. Perfumers try their best to use galbanum, other mosses, or synthetic earthy notes instead, but, alas, it is impossible to bring back the great era of chypre.

The chypre group is large and multifaceted. It includes both “traditional” chypres and floral, leather, green and even fruity ones.

Traditional chypres mostly really masculine. They are characterized by high dryness, coldness and severity, as well as the presence of woodiness in the heart notes. Examples of classic chypres include the same Chypre from Coty, Monsieur from , Derby from . However, Chypre Coty was created specifically for women, and traditional chypres include the following women's perfumes, as discontinued and lost for many lovers Ellipse from, or beautiful from, although more often it is classified as a green chypre.

Floral chypres The heart notes carry a variety of floral shades. There are an unusually large number of legendary women's fragrances in this group. This is both (in water), and, and N'Aimez Que Moi from Caron, And Diorella from , and even famous Red Moscow of New Dawn. But don’t think that floral chypres are outdated, age-old and not suitable for young women. Indeed, in this group you can also find quite modern and bright ones from, from, from, and others.

Leather chypres also mainly relate to men's fragrances. After all, leather notes usually belong to However, the most famous Bandit from Robert Piguet And Cabochard from - these are women's fragrances. The first of these perfumes, Bandit is the only favorite ballerina of Maya Plisetskaya.

Fruity chypres- the most paradoxical group. How can you combine the sweetness of fruits and the severity of a chypre earthy base? But it is possible. These, in my opinion, are the most beautiful chypres in existence, and the most feminine. Among them is the now lost Parure, distilled to the point of faint recognition, but undefeated, feminine - one of the best fruity modern chypres, , , ... The list can go on and on.

To wear or not to wear chypre is your choice. However, these are classics of world perfumery, this is the high art of combining the incompatible and creating a living, multifaceted image that, it seems, can even be touched. I hope that with the abolition of oak moss, chypres will not die out and turn into flat, one-dimensional waters. After all, you really want to close your eyes, breathe in and see this living picture created by the brilliant chypre scent.

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Comments on the article What are chypre fragrances?

Thank you, great article) I also really love chypres - they are like the “core” for starting a good day) I simply adore Chanel powder No. 19 and wouldn’t trade it for anything))

15 February 2016 19:01

I didn't like chypre before...

But then I met John Varvatos and fell in love at first breath))

I rarely use it, but I really like it

number of respects: 2 08 December 2015 21:48

Lacoste gray was just super for a man. Now you can’t find it in Goethe either... It’s a pity. The smell really suited me and I liked it!

10 April 2015 15:10

I have essential oil patchouli - smells like mold.

Chypre fragrances are one of the oldest categories in perfumery. The name “chypre” originates from the French “chypre” - this is how Europeans called the Greek island of Cyprus, where for centuries, starting from the Middle Ages, heavy, almost oriental aromas were created with notes of labdanum, styrax ( medicinal plant) and calamus, which later migrated to Italy and then to France. A few years ago, an ancient perfume factory was discovered in Cyprus, built two thousand years BC. At that time, maritime trade flourished between Greece and Egypt, and it is believed that it was the Egyptians who brought the tradition of creating perfumes to Greece. In long-empty copper and clay vessels, researchers found traces of bergamot, moss, laurel, myrtle and cinnamon. The modern perfume formula of chypre aromas is based, by and large, on these notes.

It has long been proven that the first chypre fragrances were made in Cyprus in the 12th century AD - mainly from labdanum resins and local aromatic herbs and flowers.

In the 14th century, oak moss began to be added to the perfume composition, and in an ancient manuscript dated 1777, two perfume formulas for chypre aromas were already indicated - with notes of oak moss, musk, civet, various resins and flowers.

The key ingredients of the perfume composition of modern chypre fragrances are, first of all, oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum, sage or angelica with floral heart chords (rose, jasmine) and bright, fresh, light top notes of bergamot or lemon.

The perfume composition of chypre fragrances remained unchanged for thousands of years - until the appearance of synthetic molecules in the perfume industry at the end of the 17th and beginning of the 20th centuries.

The trendsetter for chypre fragrances in the modern perfume industry was François Coty, who created the legendary Coty Chypre fragrance back in 1917. The appearance of Coty Chypre marked an unprecedented surge in the popularity of chypre fragrances (the peak of popularity occurred from the mid-forties to the mid-sixties of the 20th century) and just two years later inspired Guerlain to create the iconic Mitsouko fragrance. Moreover, although until the First World War perfumes remained a rather exclusive phenomenon, Coty Chypre became, in fact, the first “mass” fragrance.

François Coty, as it turned out, was not only the greatest perfumer, but also a brilliant businessman: “Give a woman best product"that you can create, in a perfect, simple but elegant bottle, sell it at a reasonable price, and you will see the birth of a business the likes of which the world has never seen," he wrote.

History of chypre fragrances

Interestingly, François Coty was not the first perfumer to use the name Chypre for his perfume: back in 1909, the French house of Guerlain released a fragrance called Chypre de Paris, and in 1912 it was followed by Chypre d "Orsay. However, the founder of the tradition François Coty is still considered to be the creator of chypre fragrances, since it was Coty Chypre that achieved unprecedented commercial success.

Chypre aromas, along with tobacco and oriental aromas, in the era of the twenties and thirties became one of characteristic features time.

Fashion for oriental exoticism, emancipation, the first wave of women’s struggle for independence, the appearance in women's wardrobe pantsuits– all this determined the trends in the development of the perfume industry.

Exotic chypre fragrances were loved by the brightest and most independent fashion trendsetters of the twenties, and new representatives of the chypre family began to appear one after another.

In 1924, the house of Chanel introduced Cuir de Russie, a chypre with leather accords; in 1925, Le Chypre from Molinard was released; in 1933, sales of Sous le Vent from the house of Guerlain began.

Unfortunately, the first surge in the popularity of chypre fragrances turned out to be short-lived - the Great Depression shook the economic community, and exotic chypre fragrances were replaced by more practical aromas. However, in the portfolio of almost every famous perfume brand in the period from 1919 to 1949 you can find, if not several, then at least one chypre scent. Obviously, the popularity of chypre perfumes turned out to be so great that creating their own chypre perfumes quickly became a necessity for perfume gurus.

Through the efforts of perfumers, the classic chypre formula constantly underwent changes - notes of flowers (rose, jasmine, carnation, geranium) were added to the traditional chypre accord, which made the sharp aroma more feminine.

World War II and the return of chypre fragrances

The category of chypre fragrances, almost forgotten during the Second World War, was brought back to life by none other than Edmond Rudnitska, a brilliant perfumer, creator of the legendary Chanel No. 5. In 1944, he created the exquisite fruity chypre fragrance Femme, which became wedding gift couturier Marcel Roch to his beautiful young bride. In the same year, Bandit, a chypre with leather accords, created by Germain Cellier for the house of Robert Piguet was born - much more provocative and sensual than the romantic Rochas Femme, built on intense notes of vetiver and patchouli with accords of leather and moss.

After World War II, a true revival of the category of chypre fragrances began - through the efforts of Carven and Christian Dior. The first post-war chypre fragrance was Ma Griffe, a very dry, powdery and spicy fragrance created by Jean Carl for the house of Carven. The rigor and even a certain stiffness of Ma Griffe ensured that the chypre family gained particular popularity among a completely new audience. Chypre fragrances began to be used by working women in the post-war era, intelligent, serious, earning their own living - in contrast to the “emancipation” of the twenties.

In 1947, simultaneously with the legendary New Look collection, Christian Dior released the chypre fragrance Miss Dior, which instantly became one of the most popular fragrances of the decade. Dior perfumers softened the provocative chypre chord with traditionally feminine floral notes of gardenia, narcissus, lily of the valley, fresh green accords of aldehydes and galbanum. And in 1961, Guy Robber created for the French house Hermes another famous fragrance of the chypre family - Caleche, in an exquisite, very French perfume composition of which floral and chypre chords were surprisingly harmoniously combined.

Chypre: a new story

The sixties turned out to be perfume history another era of revolution. Despite the popularity of soft powdery floral and aldehydic scents in the early sixties, by the middle of the decade a kind of primitivism had become the main trend in the perfume industry. Mary Quant and her miniskirts, The Beatles, the rise of the hippie movement, the Vietnam War - social movements and transformations could not help but affect the perfume industry, and the perfume community turned to deliberately simple compositions, sometimes consisting of single notes.

The period of oblivion for chypre fragrances was not so long - already in the seventies they returned to fashion again. The French house Chanel gave another start to the fashion for chypre fragrances, releasing the fragrance Chanel No. 19. Above perfume composition Chanel No. 19 was created by Henri Robert together with Gabrielle Chanel herself, who supervised the creation of the fragrance from start to finish. Although Chanel No. 19 is traditionally classified as a floral-green fragrance, it smells completely different in different concentrations.

A clear reminder of the chypre formula - Eau de Toilette Chanel No. 19, drier, with characteristic sharp notes of vetiver and iris. The creation of Chanel No. 19 entailed a huge avalanche of chypre fragrances - dry, austere and designed for a real woman the seventies, a woman who, as the feminists of those times declared, needed a man “just like a fish needs a bicycle.”

The legendary Diorella was another fragrance created by Edmond Rudnicka for Dior and remains iconic to this day. The creation of Diorella was caused by a growing trend that brought popularity to borrowing men's style women - who began not only to wear clothes with a masculine cut, but also to use traditionally masculine scents.

Diorella became a more feminine version of another creation by Rudnitsk for the same Dior - the Eau Sauvage fragrance. Too fresh with its top note of lemon and fruity green heart to be truly sensual, Diorella nevertheless, with its understated elegance, attracted new feminists - women who wore trousers and aspired to gain a place in the sun on an equal basis with men.

It was for such women that the famous Revlon Charlie fragrance was created in 1973, in whose advertising for the first time in the history of the advertising industry a woman appeared in trousers. The image of a woman who does not need a man to be successful - an image reflected in both perfume and advertising - has become truly revolutionary.

Other fragrances that appeared in the early seventies reflected the trend - Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Estee Lauder Alliage, Estee Lauder Private Collection and finally introduced in 1975, during the heyday of Studio 54, Halston. Interestingly, one of the few chypre fragrances for men at this time was Givenchy Gentleman, introduced in 1974 with notes of vetiver, leather and wormwood, the embodiment of a classic men's chypre composition.

The advent of the eighties brought with it a fashion for spicy oriental scents: new era in the development of perfumery was marked by the iconic Yves Saint Laurent Opium, which was followed by numerous and endlessly successful examples of oriental perfumery - from Calvin Klein Obsession, released in 1985, to the Christian Dior Poison series.

Of course, chypre fragrances have not completely disappeared - however, they have become a more niche phenomenon. Throughout the eighties, the creation of chypre fragrances was also carried out by famous brands: the French house Emanuel Ungaro introduced the Diva fragrance in 1982, Italian brand La Perla released the fragrance of the same name in 1986, and Estee Lauder pleased fans with the chypre Knowing in 1988.

By the beginning of the nineties, the situation in the perfume world changed again - to the exact opposite: the return of the fashion world to a minimalist style and laconicism in everything ensured another return of chypre scents, which became a little sweeter and fruitier in the nineties. This is exactly what, for example, the Yvresse chypre from Yves Saint Laurent turned out to be, released in 1994 by the house of Nina Ricci fragrance Deci Dela.

However, there has not been another rise in popularity: since the mid-nineties, chypre fragrances have remained a very old, “deserved”, but obviously underestimated category by modern perfume brands.

The first mention of chypre fragrances dates back to 1917, when the French perfumer François Conti released the Chypre cologne. He served as the founder of a whole group in. Today, chypre fragrances for women represent an original line of perfumes, the peak of popularity of which occurred in the 50-60s of the 20th century.

Group Description

Freshness, dryness, restraint - this is how chypres for women can be characterized. Sometimes they resemble smells in autumn forest where it has just rained, and sometimes you can clearly hear the shades of damp, damp earth and noble wood.

The main ingredient in chypre compositions is oak moss, a variety that grows exclusively in Cyprus. He long years used for the production of perfumes. Chypres create a wonderful tandem with fruits, flowers, and spices. These aromas always reveal themselves differently and never get boring.

Features of the chypre group for women:

complex dense composition;
depth and volume of aroma;
contrast of citrus, woody, floral ingredients;
mossy notes that add earthiness and tranquility.

Initially, chypres were only for men, but now this group is in great demand among women. The signature piquant bitterness of the perfume's trail, spice and woody aftertaste appealed to the taste of ladies who were tired of powdery sweetness and a floral base.

Subtypes of chypre fragrances

Modern perfumers have significantly expanded the group. Many subspecies have appeared: each with its own characteristic twist. In addition to moss, the heart of the group’s fragrances usually contains flowers, spices, esters and oils of exotic plants, and musk, sandalwood, vetiver and cistus can be heard in the trail.

The following subgroups are distinguished:

Chypre greens are fresh woody aromas with notes of herbs, violets, rosemary, lavender and hyacinth.
Chypre-floral - the classic sound of moss is complemented by irises, daisies, and carnations.
Chypre-citrus fruits are a fresh and noble tandem for the warm season.
Chypre leather is a trend for several recent years. Unisex fragrances are woven from birch, moss and have a subtle tobacco aftertaste.
Chypre-oceanic – captivate with aquatic notes reminiscent of the smell of the sea. Watermelon, cucumber, grapes, and lily are often added to such aromas. They are perfect for summer days.
Chypre-amber is considered the heaviest in this group. Saturated spicy shades require strict dosage when applied.

Chypres today

In 2010, the controversial IFRA law was issued, which prohibited perfumers from using certain plant components. Oak moss was included in the list of prohibited plants, as it is rare and endangered on the planet. This forced perfumers to look for a way out and think: what to replace the ingredient that has become the base for a whole group of fragrances?

As an alternative, it was decided to use galbanium and a synthetic substitute for the legendary plant. Despite the fact that the scents generally remain similar, connoisseurs and chypre fans complain that the original charm of the scent has been irretrievably lost.

Chypre compositions are restrained and aristocratic. They are unobtrusive, without intrigue, but they have sufficient depth and a palette of colors that emphasize the femininity, elegance, and dignity of a woman. Traditional scents are suitable for a formal business style and would be appropriate for a social event, cool summer evening. Leather, green and wood will fit perfectly into the casual style and will add intrigue and femininity to night boudoir meetings.

Chypre fragrances are popular. Thousands of women around the world love them for their unusualness and excellent durability. Not cloying, slightly “prickly” chypres constantly appear in the collections of the best perfume houses and are actively selling out.

In our previous article, we told you about the class of “fougere” aromas. Moving further in the perfume educational program, today we will talk about chypre fragrances, which are rich not only in their aromatic qualities, but also have quite big story formation and development.

What do chypre and a Mediterranean resort have in common?

The history of the discovery of chypre fragrances begins at the beginning of the last century, in 1917. And while in Russia (then still Russian Empire) large-scale revolutions took place, I ended World War, an equally broad revolution was taking place in France - the fragrance revolution.

It was in 1917 that the French perfumer François Coty (emphasis on French– as we know – always on the last syllable) was looking for new ingredients for his fragrances. A shocking discovery for the global perfume industry was the discovery of a new component included in the Francois Coty Chypre perfume, namely that same “chypre”. In fact, the very name of the component is inextricably linked with the very island of Cyprus, on the Mediterranean Sea. It is also interesting that “chypre” is extracted by squeezing oak moss, which grows only in this area.

The uniqueness of Francois Coty's aroma, in addition to the important component - oak moss, also lies in additional ingredients: sandalwood, patchouli, incense and bergamot.

In addition, if we highlight the advantages of chypre aromas among others, it is worth saying that main feature aroma is freshness, brightness and coolness, which evokes sensations summer day, shady park and forest alley. Fresh herbs and mountain rivers - according to François Coty - seemed to mix with each other and create something new, still unknown to perfumery...

In the modern perfume industry, a tendency has emerged towards the synthesis of aroma, based on natural ingredients, which is, if not completely, then at least partially, a deviation from the original technology of “chypre” extraction. Nowadays, many perfumes, the main notes of which are chypre aromas, are usually complemented by bergamot, lavender, various fruits and citrus aromas. This approach gives the greatest beauty and grace to the smell.

Unlike their neighbors in the perfume class, chypre ones are not so pretentious, more measured and calm. In this regard, they are similar to the class of “green”, “fruit” and “woody” aromas, with the caveat that the latter have a strong, deep trail and serve as a mandatory addition to men's fragrances.

Chypre scents are more feminine and subtle, which is why they are used to create unique scents for women. And if you are a connoisseur of soft, subtle aromas and welcome interest, pay attention to the composition of your perfume; perhaps its main components also contain a hint of chypre.

The Best Chypre Fragrances for Women

Among the huge variety of chypre fragrances for women, the most popular perfumes are Dior, Chanel, Lancome, and Valentino. We'll talk about them. Christian Dior brand perfume"Miss Dior"

It didn’t take long to win the attention of the female audience. From the first day of release, the fragrance was fanned with an aura of femininity, tenderness, and an unsurpassed sense of style. The aroma components contain the same chypre, cardamom, and an abundance of floral and fruit compositions. « In perfume» Eau Fraiche the global perfume brand Chanel Chance tried to create the image of a real French woman , which we could often see in the films of Jean-Luc Godard, Francois Truffaut, or in films with the participation of Belmondo and Alain Delon. An image of unobtrusiveness, prudence and loyalty to one’s inner voice

- the main features of this fragrance. Lancome- another masterpiece of French perfumers. Notes of cinnamon, chypre, lotus stem and patchouli. At the same time, perfumers did not avoid the presence of sharpness in the aroma, which is ideally complemented by woody compositions.
Perfume Valentino "Valentina Assoluto" for a long time never left the TV screens, they forged their reputation not only and not so much with a beautiful announcement, but with the uniqueness of the aroma. The perfume contains sweet compositions, floral and fruity notes of apple, raspberry, and lavender.

The Best Chypre Fragrances for Men

Famous man perfumes Gucci "Pour Homme"- bright, rich masculine compositions. Ideally emphasize the features of male style, will become a great gift to your beloved man!

Persistent and sharp "Ferre for Man" will not leave the Gianfranco brand indifferent man. This series of fragrances is emphatically rich in woody notes of aroma, complemented by marine compositions, which adds freshness to the new perfume from Gianfranco.

Hermes "Bel Ami"- French series of men's fragrance. Who else but the French are masters of style and aroma and know a lot about composing men's compositions. In this aroma one can clearly see the influences new wave fashion of the beginning of the century. Perfume does not attract the attention of others, and is created more as an addition to an elegant, individual style. If it is possible to create unique style, then perfume from this brand is a great start to something new, interesting and unforgettable.

You can order all these compositions on our website!

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