To master the art of embroidery, we suggest you familiarize yourself with the types of stitches.

1. The counted cross stitch is the most commonly used stitch in embroidery. Its name implies that in the process of embroidering it is necessary to count the number of embroidered crosses, referring all the time to the scheme by which you embroider.

If you are embroidering on Aida canvas, then four holes that form a square are one counted cross. Start embroidering from the bottom left corner to the top right - this will be the first stitch. The second stitch is carried out from the lower right corner to the upper left (Fig. 1).

When performing a series of counting crosses, you must first embroider slanted stitches from left to right, and then return. That. the row is embroidered in two stages, the main thing is to observe the same stitch inclination (Fig. 2 and Fig. 3).


2. An incomplete cross ¾ is a cross that can be made in two or more colors, and also not have one of the embroidered sides. This cross covers half of the area occupied by counting cross stitch.

When making an incomplete cross in one color with a “smooth side”, it is necessary to finish the second stitch exactly in the middle of the full-size first stitch. Make sure that the needle evenly spreads the weave of the canvas, otherwise the stitch will turn out to be sloppy (Fig. 4).


An incomplete cross in two colors is called a double cross ¾. Such a cross will cover the entire surface filled when embroidering a counted cross, it will only have two colors in it. For its execution, it is necessary to embroider two incomplete crosses ¾ with their backs to each other. In this case, half stitches have a common central puncture point of the canvas (Fig. 5)


3. Stitch "back of the needle" - this stitch is used if there is a bypass stitch in the pattern. Its other name is backstitch (from English back - back).

When performing this stitch, it is necessary to bring the needle to the front side of the canvas and sew the stitch back. Then again bring the needle out on the right side of the canvas at a distance of one stitch from the starting point of the first stitch and go back (Fig. 6).


4. Half-cross - this is an unfinished type of row performed by a counting cross.
Sew this stitch from left to right. Make a row of diagonal stitches (Fig. 7).


5. The Chinese cross is a kind of straight cross. The seam consists of rectangular blocks, each of which is one long horizontal stitch and two short vertical ones. The blocks are sewn halfway down and then up to form a wavy line.
When embroidering on Aida canvas, the horizontal stitch overlaps 6 weaves of fabric (Fig. 8).


Vertical stitches overlap 4 weaves of fabric (Fig. 9).


After the first vertical stitch, make a second vertical stitch. To do this, bring the needle through two weaves relative to the first vertical stitch. When finished, bring the needle out at the base of the first vertical stitch. As a result, one Chinese cross is embroidered (Fig. 10).


The second and subsequent Chinese crosses are performed half-shifted down and up alternately. In this case, a visible wavy line is formed (Fig. 11).


6. Seam "Goat" is a thin zigzag line. To make the effect of crossed threads more noticeable, sew stitches closer together.

To start the seam, bring the thread to the right side of the canvas from point 1. Stitch to the right, piercing the fabric at point 2. Through one weave to the left, again bring the needle to the right side at point 3 (Fig. 12).


To complete the first cross, make a slant stitch to the right towards the bottom, piercing the canvas at point 4. Bring the needle to the right side through one weave to the left from point 1 (Fig. 13). Point 1 is the starting point for making the second cross of the “Goat” seam.


Continue the seam "Goat". Make sure that the length of the stitches is the same, and the distance between them is uniform (Fig. 14).


7. Seam "Double goat" - consists of two rows of a simple seam "Goat", made one on top of the other. When making this seam, you can use threads of two colors.

First, perform a row with a simple goat stitch. Then, with a thread of a different color, perform another row of a simple seam "Goat" only with an offset to the right. Position the thread so as to close the gaps between the stitches of the first row (Fig. 15).


8. An asterisk is an embroidered plus sign with an embroidered counting cross overlaid on it. This seam can be done in several colors.

To begin, make a large straight cross (plus sign) on four weaves of canvas. Then do the usual counting cross on top. Both crosses must be the same size (Fig. 16).


On top of the completed crosses, make another small counted cross to secure the two lower large crosses (Fig. 17).


To make the "asterisk" with different threads, follow the previous three steps with the thread changed to a different color (Fig. 18).


9. Rice crosses - this is a large counting cross, having at the ends, as it were, one more, but a small counting cross.

Make a counting cross and then make a small diagonal stitch at each end (Fig. 19). Continue the row of rice crosses, keeping in mind that the distance between the crosses should be equal to the length of one cross.


Perform the next row of rice crosses in the opposite direction with an offset relative to the previous row (Fig. 20).


10. "Bricks" and counted crosses - this is an alternation of blocks of four horizontal stitches and a large counted cross, embroidered vertically (Fig. 21).


Work the second row in the opposite direction, staggering the stitch blocks and counting crosses relative to the previous row (Fig. 22).


11. Checkerboard crosses are square blocks of four vertical stitches with a cross over them. This type of cross can be made in two colors.

To begin, sew a series of square blocks consisting of four vertical stitches (Fig. 23).

Then sew the second row of vertical stitches in reverse. Place subsequent blocks under the gaps between the blocks of the first row to create a checkerboard effect (Fig. 24).


With a thread of a different color, cross over each square block of straight stitches, securing it in the center with a short vertical stitch (Fig. 25).


12. The zigzag border is the simplest of the border seams. Each row is performed in two stages, forming a subtle geometric pattern.

To begin, make a short vertical stitch, bringing the needle out of the point where it was originally brought out (Fig. 26).


Then make a diagonal stitch, sticking the needle into the top line of the row a little to the left of the previous stitch. Continue the border as needed, alternating between vertical and diagonal stitches (Fig. 27).


When you reach the end of the row, embroider from left to right, sewing the same vertical and horizontal stitches, inserting the needle into the canvas through the same holes through which the stitches of the first row were sewn (Fig. 28).


13. French knot - these are small rounded knots protruding above the surface of the canvas. They are used both singly (for example, eyes) and in groups (for example, stamens).

Bring the thread to the front side of the canvas. Pull the thread in the direction of the arrow with one hand and twist it around the needle twice (Fig. 29).


Carefully pull out the needle, tightening the coils. Do not tighten too tight or it will be difficult to pull the needle out in the next step (Fig. 30).


While continuing to pull the thread with one hand, insert the thread into the canvas very close to the point of its initial exit. Pull the needle out to the wrong side. A French knot will remain on the front side (Fig. 31).

The backstitch stitch is also called the backstitch. It is used to work out a detail or embroider the outline of a pattern. Its elements are short identical stitches that can be done horizontally, vertically or diagonally. The rows are drawn from left to right, although individual stitches can be sewn from right to left on two threads of fabric. The sample is embroidered with floss threads in one addition.

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1. Make the first stitch from right to left (points 1-2). Bring the needle to the right side at point 3, two cells to the right of the first stitch. Sew the second stitch, pulling the needle inside out at point 4 (aka point 1).

2. Continue to embroider the entire row.

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Basting stitch.

Basting stitches are performed with threads in one addition.

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1. Pass the thread over and under two threads of fabric to create a series of basting stitches.

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Double basting stitches.

Double basting (also called holbein) is usually done on swatches embroidered with black thread. From the front side, the embroidery resembles back stitches, but from the inside it looks different: the double basting is the same on both sides of the fabric, so the needlework looks much neater than the back stitches.

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Start by sewing a basting stitch from left to right, then sew another line of stitches in the gaps between stitches.

1. Sew a row of basting stitches, then work backwards and place new stitches in the gaps of the previous row.

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2. Continue stitching until you reach the end of the row.

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Cross.

The cross is one of the most ancient and widely known stitches. There are two sequences of crosses. The first is recommended when working with variegated and dyed threads, it is to fully embroider one cross before moving on to the next. The movement is carried out from left to right. As an example, I gave embroidery with colorful threads in two additions.

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1. Sew the first cross bar from bottom left to top right, then stitch the second from bottom right to top left.

2. To embroider the second cross, bring the needle to the right side at point 3, through the same hole as for the first stitch, and lay the thread obliquely to form the first bar of the second cross.

3. Continue stitching the entire row, finishing each cross before moving on to the next. Pay attention to how the color gradually changes.

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Another cross stitch method is to make a row of the first crossbars, and then go through the same row in the opposite direction and make a row of the second crossbars.

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1. Working from left to right, sew the first row of stitches. Sew only one half of each cross, from bottom left to top right.

2. Move along the row from right to left and finish the crosses one by one, embroidering stitches from the lower right corner to the upper left.

Advice.
To make the crosses smaller, they can be embroidered over one thread of fabric.

Half cross.

There are four ways to embroider such crosses. These crosses are needed in order to embroider small details of the pattern.

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Bulgarian cross.

This cross is also called double. It consists of two crosses superimposed one on top of the other and rotated relative to each other. Such crosses turn out to be slightly convex, they will add additional volume and texture to your needlework. You can make Bulgarian crosses with threads of two colors: the lower crosses - in one color, the upper ones - in another.

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1. Sew the first diagonal stitch on four threads (points 1-2), then the second stitch (points 3-4).

2. Perform the vertical bar of the upper cross, moving from top to bottom.

3. Finish embroidering the Bulgarian cross with a horizontal bar, moving from right to left.

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Double goat.

This stitch consists of two rows of simple goat stitches, sewn one on top of the other with an offset. A double goat made with threads of two colors looks very impressive: the bottom row is darker, the top one is lighter.

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1. Sew the first stitch at points 1 and 2, placing the thread diagonally on the four vertical and six horizontal threads of the fabric. Sew the second stitch in the opposite direction (points 3-4) to make an inverted V.

2. Watching the thread tension, bring the working thread inside out at a distance of two cells to the left of point 5, then take the needle inside out at point 6 to get the next stitch.

3. Finish the first row of goat stitches.

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4. Thread the needle with a thread of a different color and sew the second row, placing stitches between the stitches of the first row and inserting the needle into the same holes in the fabric.

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Slanted satin finish.

This stitch, also called satin stitch, consists of continuous embroidery elements. Each block consists of seven stitches made on four threads of fabric obliquely, in one direction. The second element in the row is a mirror reflection of the first one; during its execution, the needle passed through the same tissue cells. There is no gap between the elements. Rows are performed when moving from left to right, the direction of the stitches in the elements alternates. For example, I took a floss in two additions.

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1. Bring the needle to the right side of the fabric at point 1, then take it to the wrong side, laying the thread diagonally to point 2.

2. Pull up the thread to make the first stitch. Embroider the second stitch in the same way as the first, passing the needle through the same hole to the right of point 3. Then take the needle to the wrong side through the cell below point 4.

3. Sew two more stitches, shifting one space to the side and down.

4. Sew the second half of the element with three stitches (points 9-14). Bring the thread to the front side, step back two cells to the right and get ready to embroider the second element.

5. Run the second element as a mirror image of the first. Pass the needle through the same holes as for the first component.

6. Continue to embroider the row, alternating the direction of the stitches in the embroidered elements.

Squares.

These stitches are also called quadrilateral. They can be performed with normal tension or by pulling the thread tighter. It is necessary to tighten each part of the stitch to get an openwork effect; the tighter the working thread is, the more airy the embroidery will be. For example, I chose pearl threads, since they have to be pulled quite tight.

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1. Sew the first stitch (1-2) on the four horizontal threads of the fabric and pull the working thread taut. Draw the thread diagonally from the wrong side of the fabric and bring it out at point 3, then take it to the wrong side at point 4 (it is also point 1).

2. Pull the thread, draw it diagonally from the wrong side and bring it out at point 5, then take it to the wrong side at point 6 (it is also point 2).

3. Pull the thread taut, finish the fourth side of the square (7-8). The first side of the next square is formed. Continue stitching the row.

4. To rotate the row on the corner, you will need to embroider the side of the square that will be the first side of the next one last. Embroider the top side of the square, then the right vertical side from the bottom up.

5. Draw the thread diagonally to the bottom left corner, embroider the bottom stitch of the square in a left to right motion.

6. Sew the next square under the previous one, sewing the stitches in the same order as in the diagram above.

Triangles.

This stitch is also called Turkish lace. Triangular stitches pull the fabric tight and are sewn from right to left. Each side of the triangle is formed by two stitches, the threads must be constantly taut so that the pattern is distinct. For this sample, I chose pearl threads.

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1. Start on the right side of the first triangle. Sew two stitches from top to bottom (points 1-2 and 3-4), making the second stitch in the same cells as the first. Pull the thread taut, bring the needle to the front side, counting four vertical threads to the left.

2. Sew two stitches at the base of the triangle, pulling the thread taut each time, and bring the needle out at the beginning of the next stitch.

3. Perform this stitch twice, bring the thread to the front side, counting four vertical threads to the left - to the beginning of the next triangle (13).

4. Continue to embroider the entire row.

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Satin smooth.

Satin stitch is embroidery with straight stitches placed so close to each other that a continuous smooth surface is formed. The length and direction of the stitches can be changed, the stitches can be sewn horizontally, vertically or at an angle to fill shapes of different shapes. Make sure that the stitches are even so that the threads do not twist; you will need a leveling tool to keep the threads evenly tensioned. Below are the simplest examples of satin satin stitch and patterns for performing various satin stitch patterns. Sew each stitch in the direction the arrow is pointing.

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1. Sew the petal with straight stitches from top to bottom, following the pattern.

Finished petal.

Stitching. When passing the needle between two threads, parallel stitches are obtained.

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Smooth rollers.

Such rollers (“rocking chairs”) serve as fastening stitches made on four threads of fabric on both sides of the strip of threads pulled out. The stitches that wrap around the threads of the fabric allow them to be cut and are placed close together, all in the same direction. For rollers, threads “pearl” No. 5 for fabric No. 25 or “pearl” No. 8 for fabric No. 28 are taken. You should start embroidering with enough thread in stock to cover the entire roller. Never switch to a new thread without finishing the roller.

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1. Bring the thread to the right side, pass the thread over the four vertical threads of the fabric.

2. Tighten the thread, sew four more stitches in the same way, going down one thread of fabric each time.

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Varieties of satin rolls are fastening stitches, consisting of four elements, embroidered on common cells and converging in the center. Horizontal and vertical stitches connected at right angles form a continuous pattern.

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From skins, this art has a long history. At different times, precious stones and pearls, beads and beads, coins, sequins, shells, as well as animal veins, dyed or natural threads of hemp, flax, silk, cotton, hair and wool served as the material for embroidery. At all times, embroidery reflected the ideas and artistic tastes of different peoples, showed their skill and national identity.

Before you start embroidering complex work, you need to be able to correctly and quickly perform simple seams. If they are easy for you, then in the future you will not have problems with the development of any manual embroidery technique. Information taken from the site http://avemeri.by.ru

The simplest seams include contour ones - “forward needle”, stalk, tambour, etc., as well as looped and “goat”, loops with attachments and “knots”. These stitches are usually used in many embroideries as auxiliary ones, for example: in embroidery of stems and twigs - a stem stitch, in embroidery of the cores of flowers - “knots”, “goat”, chain stitch, etc. All of them are simple, do not require special skills in embroidery , but, having mastered them, you can perform more complex patterns. Beginning embroiderers can make these seams on a piece of fabric measuring 25x30 cm. It is better if this fabric is with a clear, linen weave of threads (linen with lavsan, matting, harsh canvas). You can perform these seams on the canvas, but always in the hoop. For the convenience of making seams on a dense fabric, 1-2 threads are pulled out of it for each seam and a seam is made along the trail of the pulled out threads (the required number of threads will be easy to count). By performing these stitches, you can practice well in placing your hands when embroidering, threading a working thread into a needle, attaching it to a fabric, etc. To make these stitches, an embroidery needle No. 2 and floss threads in 6 additions are recommended.

Seam "forward needle"

(Fig. 1a). It is a series of stitches and gaps of the same length. Fasten the thread at the right edge of the fabric, making a stitch of 5 mm (3-6 threads of fabric). After fixing the thread, insert the needle into the second puncture point and drag it along with the loop to the wrong side. Having skipped the same number of threads, poke the needle out on the front side and make the second stitch, etc. The stitches of the seam and the gaps must be made of the same length and placed in the direction from right to left. On the wrong side of the fabric, stitches of the same length will be placed between the front stitches. The stitch length can be different. So in a white smooth surface, this seam outlines the contour of the pattern, making stitches from 1 to 2 mm long. In counted embroidery (stitch set), the stitches can be 3-4 mm long, and in patterns completely made with this stitch, 6-8 mm. The seam can be performed both according to the count of threads and according to the drawn contour; stitches in two (Fig. 1b) or more rows.

Seam "by the needle"

(Fig. 2) - a continuous row of stitches. By moving the needle from right to left, make the first stitch and skip the same length, for example, equal to 4 threads of fabric. For the second stitch, lay the thread from left to right. Insert the needle at the same point where the first stitch ends, and bring it to the front side 4 threads of fabric to the left of the second stitch. Thus, the purl stitch will be twice as long as the front stitch. Performing the third and all subsequent stitches, insert the needle at the point where the previous stitch ends. Seam stitches should be the same length.

This seam can be sewn with fabric gaps between stitches (fig. 3). In the direction from right to left, make the first stitch on the fabric with a length of 4 threads. On the front side, puncture the needle to the left of the first stitch by 8 threads and sew the second stitch 4 threads long in the direction from left to right. The front side is the same as that of the “needle forward” seam, but the stitches are more convex, embossed. This method of making a seam is used in a white smooth surface to make motifs with a “scatter” seam, as well as to make an outline of drawn patterns.

stalk seam

(Fig. 4). They are used for embroidering contour patterns, stalks and twigs, sheathe motifs of the pattern in embroidery, which is called the "Orlov list". When making a curved line (convex or concave), the needle is pierced from the side of the center of the circle, if we consider the curved line as part of a circle. The seam forms a continuous row of diagonal stitches that fit snugly together. It can be done from left to right when embroidering with both hands, and away from you when embroidering with your right hand while holding the hoop with your left. Having made the first stitch on the fabric away from you, bring the needle and thread to the middle of the left side of the stitch, lay it towards you and press it against the fabric with the thumb of your left hand. When sewing the second stitch, make a puncture in the fabric above the first stitch, and bring the needle out in the middle of the second stitch on the left side. The seam is performed by moving the needle towards you, laying the stitches away from you. Each new stitch at the same time comes forward half of the previous one. When performing a stalk seam, the working thread should always be on the same side - on the right or on the left. It is impossible to change the direction of the thread during operation, because this will disrupt the structure of the seam. All stitches must be the same size.

Seam "lace"

(Fig. 5). It is performed in two steps. First, in a straight line or along the contour of the pattern, you need to make the stitches of the seam “forward needle”. The distance between stitches should be half the stitch length. Then bring a needle with a thread (often of a different color) under each stitch from top to bottom, without piercing the fabric. If the needle and thread are brought under the stitches, then from top to bottom, then from bottom to top, a different type of seam will be obtained (Fig. 5a).

Seam "goat"

(Fig. 6). Small leaves, flower cores, etc. are embroidered with this stitch. It is also used to embroider the entire pattern with an arbitrary contour. Even seam strips are used as an addition to large, complex embroideries, as well as to mask seams when connecting pieces of fabric. Stitches should be placed from left to right, making punctures in the fabric alternately along one and the other edge of the strip. The distance between the punctures should be the same. In the middle of the strip, the stitches cross. Each new stitch lies on top of the previous one. When making a seam along a curved line (a circle in the cores of flowers, leaves, etc.), it is necessary to ensure that the distance between the punctures along the edge of the larger circle is longer than the distance between the punctures located along the edge of the smaller circle.

Buttonhole stitch

(sometimes called a marginal seam, since the edge of the fabric is sheathed with it, Fig. 7). Bend the fabric to the wrong side to a width of 3-4 mm and bast it with a thread to match the fabric. The buttonhole stitches are sewn in the direction from left to right, placing them perpendicular to the edge of the fabric. Lay the edge of the fabric on the index finger of your left hand and hold it with your thumb. For convenience, the opposite end of the fabric can be pressed against the table with a heavy object. Having made the first stitch on the fabric, by moving the needle towards you, lay the thread down, to the right and up from it, that is, in a loop. Poke the needle into the fabric, stepping back from the first stitch to the right, and make a stitch on the wrong side in the direction from top to bottom so that the loop of thread remains under the needle. Tighten the thread, make the third stitch and so on. Seam stitches can be of different lengths. If the edge of the line mesh is sheathed with a looped seam (for example, in a colored interlacing), then the stitches are made 2-3 mm high and 2 threads of fabric are left between them. In embroideries, scallops (the jagged edge of the collar), necklines, etc. are sheathed with white satin stitch. In this case, stitches that fit tightly to each other are made of different heights, arranging them in the shape of a scallop. The edge of small napkins, the bottom of an apron or a towel are sheathed with a looped seam. In this case, the stitches are made with thick colored threads. The stitch height can be from 8 to 10 mm, the distance between them is 3-4 mm.

Stitches can be of different lengths (Fig. 7a), grouped by 3 or more stitches (Fig. 7b). Sometimes the edge of the fabric is sheathed twice with threads of different colors, such as red and blue. First, with blue threads, seam stitches are made with a height of 8 mm with a distance between stitches of 5 mm. Then, stitches 4-6 mm high are made with red threads, placing them between blue stitches.

chain stitch

(Fig. 8) is a continuous series of loops emerging from one another. The seam can be performed both in the hoop and without them. In both cases, the stitches must be performed by moving the needle towards you. When embroidering without a hoop, you need to make sure that the fabric does not shrink, and the stitch loops have a rounded shape. If embroidered with a thread folded in half, then fastening the thread to the fabric can be the first loop of the chain stitch. After fastening, lay the working thread in a loop in the direction from left to down to right, and insert the needle into the fabric in the middle of the first loop, to the point from which the thread came out to the front side of the fabric. Poke out the needle 4-5 threads of fabric below the first loop so that the loop from the working thread is under the needle. So embroider in a straight line, counting the same number of fabric threads for each stitch.

The chain stitch can be made in the form of a zigzag strip (Fig. 8a). In this seam, the stitches on the wrong side and the loops on the right side will be located alternately either to the left or to the right of the center line of the seam. Tambour stitch is used to embroider strips in other, more complex embroideries, sheathe the cores of large flowers and pattern motifs in Olonets embroidery (Olonets stitch according to the letter). With this seam, you can embroider floral patterns, sheathing them along the contour and completely filling in the motifs of the pattern.

Loops and half loops

The “attachment” loop will turn out if you embroider the first loop of the chain stitch, and instead of the second loop, make a small stitch, making a puncture in the fabric below the loop. Flowers and grass are embroidered with such loops in patterns of white and colored smooth surface. The loops should be arranged in a circle in the flower (Fig. 9) and with an inclination to the stem in the grass (Fig. 9a).

The loops can be attached with two stitches. When making such loops (fig. 9b), the working thread should not be tightened too much and first one, then another attachment stitch should be made. You need to make a loop from the working thread even more freely when making 3 attachments: first the middle one, then the extreme ones.

The hearts of the flowers can be embroidered with half loops (fig. 9c). To do this, the needle with the thread should be pierced on the front side of the fabric, and the working thread should be laid in a loop, as in a chain stitch, and a puncture should be made in the fabric, retreating from the first puncture by 5-6 mm to the right. Inject the needle in the middle of the distance between the punctures and below the puncture line by 5-6 mm. The length of the attachment stitch depends on the distance between the circumference of the core and the center of the flower and can be up to 10 mm.

"Knots"

They perform the core of flowers or half of the leaf in a white surface. Sometimes a flower embroidered with white satin stitch is sheathed along the contour with “knots”. Fasten the thread and bring it to the front side of the fabric on the contour line. With your left hand, pull the thread to the left. The needle must be held in a horizontal plane, pointing the sharp end to the left. Wrap the needle with a working thread 1-2 times in the direction away from you and hold the thread with your left hand until the end of the seam (Fig. 10). With your right hand, pierce the fabric at a small distance from the place where the thread came to the surface of the fabric. Carefully pull the thread to the wrong side, pulling the resulting “knot” to the fabric (Fig. 10a) When making “knots”, you need to make sure that the needle does not hit the point of the first puncture, because in this case the “knot” together with the thread will easily pass to the wrong side. It is necessary to prick the needle on the front side, retreating from the “knot” to the right 1.5-2 mm, and stick it next to the “knot” made in a circle until the entire core of the flower is filled. In embroideries with colored satin stitch, “knots” are made with colored floss threads, sometimes in 4-6 or more additions, and the needle is wrapped around 3-4 times. The size of the "knot" also depends on the thickness of the needle. To make the “knot” neat, you need to pull the thread with your left hand while the right hand stretches it to the wrong side.

Overlay grids

Used to fill a large area of ​​embroidery.

Overhead mesh is easy to implement. First, vertical stitches of the required length are made, then horizontal ones. The places where the threads crossed are decorated with additional stitches, the number of stitches may be different.

Loose seams

They are seams arranged arbitrarily, for example, stitches made in a checkerboard pattern look good. Loose stitches are a decorative type of embroidery stitches.

STITCH EMBROIDERY

Colored (Alexander) smooth surface

Linen, blouses, tablecloths and other products are decorated with this smooth surface with vegetable patterns. Sometimes the pattern is performed in only one color. The motifs of the pattern are embroidered with double-sided satin stitch without flooring, with “goat” stitches, stalk stitches, loops with attachments, “knots”.

The stitches of the smooth surface are arranged according to the shape of the motif: in flowers from the edge to the center (Fig. 11), in leaves - towards the middle, in the direction of the veins (Fig. 11a). Large leaves are embroidered with edge stitch (Fig. 12), making stitches of different lengths, small leaves - with stitches with an oblique direction of stitches or "goat", grass - with a stalked seam and loops with attachments, the core of flowers - with "knots".

When embroidering grass, it is necessary to ensure that the loop leaves are located at an angle to the stem in the same way as the veins in the leaves go, and the ends of each loop converge at one point (Fig. 13).

The seam "goat" in the patterns of colored smoothness is performed in a more complex version. Its sequential execution is shown in Fig. 14. Leaves embroidered in this way acquire a clearer and more convex outline.

Berries of mountain ash, blueberries and others are embroidered with a satin stitch with a straight stitch direction. In order for the berries to retain their shape, you need to sheathe them along the contour with a “forward needle” seam. Then sew the stitches of the smooth surface, closing the stitches laid along the contour. They begin to embroider a berry from the middle, the stitches are placed first to the right of the middle, then to the left.

Sometimes flower motifs are embroidered with threads of two tones. In this case, the stitches of one color seem to merge into the stitches of another color (Fig. 15). First, the stitches of the first row are performed, placing them from the edge to the center of the flower and making them of different lengths. This row should cover two-thirds of the length of the petal. Then the stitches of the second row are made, laying them in the direction from the core of the flower to the edge and closing the gaps between the stitches of the first row. For such embroidery, it is recommended to take threads of two tones of the same color, for example: light blue and dark blue, yellow and orange, etc.

Rococo embroidery

As you know, Rococo is a stylistic trend in European art of the first half of the 18th century. This style is characterized by a departure from life into a fantasy world. Exquisite graceful and whimsical ornaments. A seam with a coil, an embroider with a coil is performed without a hoop. In a flower in the shape of a circle with straight petals going from the center of the circle to the edge, fasten the thread on the wrong side in the center of the circle. The needle with the thread must be pierced on the circumference, the thread should be pulled to the front side to the end and a new puncture should be made from the center to the edge, but the needle should not be punctured from the fabric (Fig. 17).

The fabric with the needle should be held in the left hand, and the end of the needle should be wrapped around the end of the needle in the direction from left to right with a thread coming from the fabric. Holding the coiled needle with the index and thumb of the left hand, carefully pull the needle and thread through the coil with the right hand. Then lay it to the center of the flower (Fig. 17a) and make a puncture from the center to the edge.

After tightening the thread, make a new puncture to make the second petal. It is difficult to transfer the pattern to the finished product. For its implementation, a place is marked on the product and stencils are laid out on it to make flowers in the form of circles. Stencils of different diameters can be cut out of cardboard. The circles should be circled with a white pencil on dark and simple - on light fabrics and put a dot in the center of the circle. Flower petals should be embroidered in this order: first placing them vertically and horizontally (along two diameters), then between them. Embroider one or more knots in the center of the flower. With a simple pencil, draw a curved line to complete the stem. It is embroidered with a stalk or needle stitch. The leaves are embroidered with loops with attachments, placing them on both sides of the stem with an inclination towards it. Sometimes the loop leaves are grouped in groups of three in the form of paws and embroidered coming out of one point. Such paws can be placed on both sides of the flower. For embroidery, you need woolen or synthetic bulky threads of different colors and a large needle with a long eye.

Graceful roses made in this technique differ from daisies in that the petals are not arranged in all directions, they are folded like rose petals. The figure shows the sequence of stitches, the number of which depends on the size of the rosette and the thickness of the thread.

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Types of seams.

At zelkovye seams "French knot", Rococo embroidery and others ...

Hello beginners. In past publications, we have learned.

Today we will analyze. Most often they are used as a decorative addition to various embroideries. For example, when performing work with simple seams or stitching, elements such as flower stamens, leaves, flower stems and tree trunks are embroidered with knotted seams. A pattern sewn with simple knots with an infusion of tones is called nodular stitch. Graceful embroidery "rococo", used for finishing blouses, underwear, handkerchiefs, it is performed with various knotted seams. Rococo embroidery is also often used in the creation of miniature paintings.

Knotted sutures can be divided into three groups:

Knots used in national embroideries;

simple nodules;

Knots for decorating simple seams.

It is impossible to list all existing knotted sutures in one publication, so we will consider those that are most commonly used.

The group of simple nodular sutures includes french knot (Fig. 1), Rococo seam or flagellum (Fig. 2). And also pearl (Fig. 3).

As well as double (Fig. 4), coral (Fig. 5) and spiral (Fig. 6) nodules.

The second group of knotted sutures includes Portuguese (Fig. 7), Armenian (Fig. 8), Chinese (Fig. 9), Spanish (Fig. 10).

The third group includes various simple seams supplemented with knots. A straight cross with a knot (Fig. 11) makes it possible to more densely fill a rare fabric with embroidery. Simple knots complement the tambour (Fig. 12) and zigzag seams (Fig. 13), the diamond-shaped knotted seam is considered more complex (Fig. 14).

In counted embroidery, a simple knot can replace a cross. The size of the knot can be either very thin in one thread in one turn over thin fabric (for example, batiste), or wide, for example, a woolen garus in three or four turns over knitwear or cloth.

In the next article we will tell you about the seam

Try to embroider two napkins using only the back stitch.

You will need:

Thin translucent fabric (cotton or silk, voile, organza) and

floss threads: for a napkin with roses 50/40 cm of fabric and pink (2 tones) and green (2 tones) floss,

for a white napkin, approximately 80/80 cm of white transparent fabric and white floss. You can use colored fabric and threads to match the fabric.

Lace - about 250 cm.

Completing of the work:

Embroider with 2 strands of thread. The smaller the seam stitches, the denser the pattern on the wrong side will be filled and the brighter the embroidery on the front side will look.

Embroidery scheme.

TYPES OF SEAMS. SIMPLE SEAMS.

Hello beginner crafters. You have finally decided to learn how to embroider. Do you know how many different types of embroidery there are? There are so many of them that they are even classified differently: by type, use, national origin.

We are starting a series of articles about different types of seams. In this article we will talk about simple types of seams.

All seams according to the execution technique are divided into two large groups - deaf and transparent (through)

TO blind seams include seams that are laid over the fabric, decorating and complementing it. These include counted seams, all types of smoothness, appliqués and others.

TO transparent or through seams include seams that change the structure of the fabric. These are cutwork, cutouts (hardanger), various hemstitches, line seams made on a threaded grid and many others.

Often the same seams made in different parts of the country differ from each other. But with all the variety of types of embroidery, they have the basis of embroidery. It is the same almost everywhere - these are the main seams. There are not so many of them, but they form the basis of all complex embroideries. Simple (basic) seams include seams: “forward” and “back needle”, tambour, stalk, “rope”, “lace”, nodular, looped, “loop” and “half-loop” and their simplest combinations.

Let's start with the seam "forward needle." The seam "forward the needle" is one-sided, i.e. when it is performed, a negative image is formed on the wrong side. Lay it both according to the count of the threads of the fabric, and along the drawn contour. The seam is made from right to left along the pattern line. The size of the stitches and the distance between them can be any. It depends on the chosen pattern (Fig. 1 a-c). To get a row completely filled with stitches, you need to stitch “forward the needle, first in one, and then in the opposite direction, blocking the gaps between the stitches. When making such a seam, the stitch size and the distance between them should be the same (Fig. 1d).

Also, the seam can be decorated with a thread of a contrasting color, wrapping the laid stitches in one direction or another (Fig. 2). When wrapping, the needle should pass only under the stitches, without grabbing the fabric. Such seams are called "rope", "chain", "string".

You can also put the thread through two parallel rows of seam located at some distance from each other. In this case, the stitches of the seams can be staggered (Fig. 3 a, b) or sewn exactly one under the other (Fig. 3 c, d). In the same way, you can wrap a thread around several rows tightly laid to each other (Fig. 4). Such decorative seams can be used independently for finishing products, and in addition, fragments of the pattern can be filled with them.

The "forward needle" stitch is widely used in counted embroideries. The seam "painting" perform in two moves - in one and in the opposite direction along the contour of the pattern. In this case, a thin lace-like pattern is formed. The seam "kit" used for finishing stripes or embroidering tapestries and carpets, and its variety of stitch "branch" is used to fill in the details of the pattern in embroidery called "Orlovsky list".

Begin the development of embroidery "forward the needle" with the development of the simplest work. Come up with a pattern, transfer it to the fabric and embroider.

Today it is the turn to study the means of artistic representation in embroidery - various seams. Be patient, read the article to the end, you will find motivation and inspiration!

I will say right away that with such an incredible variety of stitches and techniques in embroidery, we will consider only the most important and interesting, in my opinion, my favorite ways of embroidery.

Cross. I'll start with the simplest, but at the same time the most significant element and method of embroidery. We have already talked about its connection with the rituals and beliefs of the ancient Russians in the first part of our conversation about embroidery. The cross was considered a protection from dark forces and any evil. It is still being used for the same purpose. The cross is concise and beautiful, but its most magical and incredible property for me is that thanks to a small prickly hedgehog, pictures are obtained. It's all about the size and number of these "hedgehogs", of course. The crosses are like pixels: the more of them, the clearer and more realistic the image.

The thread consumption will be less, the work will move much faster, the embroidery will look neater if you first embroider the lower diagonals of all the crosses (for example: from right to left from bottom to top). And then you will finish the crosses with a perpendicular crossbar (for example: from left to right from bottom to top). Note! The figure shows a way to save time: it is not necessary to pull the needle under the hoop, and then return it to the front of the embroidery again. You can make a stitch with one movement and immediately be in the right place! 🙂 Here's a little trick.

When they talk about cross stitch, it immediately seems simple cross or "Russian cross", but there are many more types of cross-stitch.

I will dwell briefly on the complex (double) cross and on the counting surface.

double cross or "Bulgarian cross" is a bit like a snowflake and consists of two crosses superimposed on each other with a shift.

Also applies to cross stitch. counting surface. Let me remind you that this smooth surface is called “countable” because the length of the stitch is determined by a counted number of warp threads (canvas).

Now it would be logical to get acquainted with the namesake counting surface - with uncountable smooth surface. In Rus', it was called The surface of the finished embroidery is even and smooth like satin. The satin fabric differs from the counting surface in that the length and direction of its stitch are determined only by the contour of a particular embroidery detail.

For it is important to prepare a "flooring" - it's like a skeleton for musculoskeletal tissue, like a foundation for a future home. The flooring can be the outline of an embroidery detail (leaf, petal, etc.) “outlined” with a tambour or other stitch (we will consider the tambour stitch later).

If the embroidery detail is large, then flooring (as I call it) is needed over its entire area, which is often done with threads to match the background. The flooring stitches can be quite sparse, they should not cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe part, but it is important that they are perpendicular to the future main satin embroidery. Such a “foundation” will support the upper embroidery, make it voluminous, give it a neat and even look. The front (top) stitches of the smooth surface itself will not fail or sag. Also pay attention to the tension of the thread while embroidering, so that the stitches fit snugly, but at the same time do not pull the fabric.

For extra volume, the item can be embroidered with satin stitch in two layers, the stitches of which will be perpendicular to each other.

The next number of our program will be the "chain" or "tambour" seam - this is a continuous chain of loops coming out of one another. The loops can be small or large, depending on the thickness of the thread and the length of the stitch being performed. With a tambour chain, various patterns are embroidered along a free contour or they cover the entire plane of the motif in rows. This seam also has its variations and complications.

"A loop with an attachment" can be considered a kind of chain stitch, or rather a separate element of it.

And now on our stage "French knot" - the cutest pictorial tool in embroidery! With it, you can easily give the work volume and charm. You can see for yourself what different images you can create with the help of this small, but remote knot. 🙂

Meanwhile, it is done very simply: the needle is wrapped around two circles of thread, stuck into the fabric next to the exit of the end of the thread from the fabric and pulled through these loops. The knot is ready!

The next seam is rococo. M This name does not resemble a chicken. 🙂 And if the “French knot” is a chicken, then Rococo is its mother, because Rococo is a complicated interpretation of the French knot, in my opinion. For Rococo, the needle needs to be stuck at a distance from the exit of the thread from the fabric, and when the end of the needle appears next to the thread emerging from the canvas, it needs to be wound a little more loops of thread than for the knot. After you pull the needle and thread through the loops, you will get a "caterpillar" or "smile", as you like. We lay it, as required by the idea and composition of the embroidery, and fix it by sticking a needle into the fabric in the right place. Pay attention to the fact that the thread should be completely covered with loops: the “caterpillar” should turn out to be dense. To do this, the number of turns of the thread around the needle must correspond to the distance between the exit of the thread from the fabric and the subsequent entry of the needle into the fabric. You can tighten and tighten the loops on the thread a little, but not to infinity.

Rococo is most often used for embroidery of flowers and leaves.

And now... my favorite . When my mother taught “workshops” (labor) at a pedagogical school, she mastered this type of needlework of her own free will, although she already possessed and still possesses an impressive set of creative skills. In the evenings, I watched with rapture how my mother conjures over the hoop and does miracles with threads ...

In my opinion, the most unpleasant thing about hemstitching is the boring and rather time-consuming process of pulling the threads out of the fabric (pulling) in order to create a “bridgehead”: for further creativity. And then you need to arm yourself with some kind of optics and provide good lighting (as with any type of needlework). If you have patience, then a masterpiece is guaranteed to you! Merezhka is the spirit of folk embroidery! It is incredibly beautiful, original and gentle! See for yourself:

There are different stitches. There are types of hemstitching designed to work with “paths” (as I call holey striped spaces on the fabric for myself). And there are types of hems suitable for decorating and processing the corners of the future pattern.

To avoid disappointment, you need to start with a "short race" - with a simple type of hemstitch and a short "track". When a positive result inspires you, you can take on more difficult options for this through embroidery. Dare!

In my opinion, hemstitch is the sister of weaving and a relative of macrame.

I bow before the beauty and nobility of another type of embroidery. Meet! Magnificent in person. As well as hemstitch, this method of embroidery is borderline with other types of needlework. Richelieu is very similar to lace. Also, cutwork is close to knitting and macrame, because it contains “hinged” (as I call them) elements over fabric fragments that will subsequently be cut out. These thread-woven constrictions, similar to rope bridges over an abyss, like Atlanteans, hold the entire composition and the central fragments of openwork, through embroidery.

The next seam that we will consider - stalked. With your permission, I will end there. But don't be in a hurry to leave. 🙂 At the end of this article, the most interesting awaits you!

This was our last "exhibit" for today. But please, read the post to the end.

If you have been admiring the products of the masters all this time, admiring the pictures and photographs, and sadly thought that you could not create such masterpieces ... I will give you reasons that can inspire you.

1. In China, there is a woman who was born without arms in the truest sense of the word. The most amazing thing is that she is a talented embroiderer!

Agree that after this, talking about yourself full and healthy: “armless” or “hands growing out of the wrong place” is simply a sin!

2. The modern world offers so many different devices to help, which facilitate the process of creativity and help to get one sheer pleasure from embroidery.

Convenient lamps with magnifying glasses are at your disposal to preserve your eyesight. Hoops of various sizes, shapes and models, entire installations for fixing fabrics during embroidery have been designed.

3. We have much more opportunities, time and energy for creativity for pleasure than our great-great-grandmothers, who had subsistence farming with domestic animals and birds, a garden, as a rule, large families and hard physical labor in the field.

4. You can not only enjoy the creative process, but also use the result (the product of your activity). It can be a wonderful gift for family and friends, a talisman for your home, a decoration for yourself. Someone also receives material rewards for their hobby, like the masters of the Fair, for example.

5. And finally, the most important thing, in my opinion! Creativity gives a modern woman the opportunity to feel like a little fairy, a kind sorceress, a creator of comfort and a good atmosphere in the house. Embroidery or other kind of creativity can make you an even more “kind and happy” woman, wife, mother, sister, girlfriend… Any needlework is many times more useful for peace of mind and health in general than watching TV shows or gossip with neighbors. Creativity helps to relieve stress, find inner harmony and peace.

Therefore, be creative and be happy, dear sorceresses!