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A simple crochet heating pad for a teapot. We knit a traditional item of Russian everyday life - a heating pad for a teapot
The heating pad is put on over the top and fastened with a button under the handle. Can be made without a button - with two holes for the spout and for the handle
Materials and tools
Brown or beige yarn - for the body and head of the hedgehog. I used semi-woolen yarn Semenovskaya "Natasha", 250 m per 100 g.
Yarn in gray and white (or light gray) colors - for a hedgehog’s fur coat. I had acrylic yarn (no name), about 200 m per 100 g.
Green yarn - for a heating pad. My acrylic yarn is thinner than Natasha. Knitted in two threads.
Thin yarn (cotton is best - "Iris", "daisy", "coco", "rose"): black - for the nose and muzzle, brown - for tightening the muzzle, green - for blades of grass and leaves, colored - for flowers.
Crochet hooks.
Monofilament.
Sewing needle.
A needle with a large eye (the so-called “gypsy”).
Two beads for eyes (eyes can also be embroidered or purchased).
Wire for the leg frame.
Beads, seed beads, sequins, etc. for finishing the product.
Filler for the head and body of a hedgehog.
Acrylic paints and brush (optional).
Kettle.
Abbreviations and terms in the text:
sc - single crochet; pp - half loop; ss - connecting column;
VP - air loop; increase - two stitches in one loop; decrease - knit two loops together;
amigurumi ring - we wrap yarn around our finger (two turns), and tie the resulting ring with single crochets. Remove it from your finger and tighten it by pulling the free end of the thread.
I decided to place a hedgehog on such a small teapot
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1) We knit the body of the hedgehog (the top of the heating pad).
We knit with single crochets in a spiral (without lifting loops).
4-9th rows: one increase in each row = 24 sc
We make increments with an offset so that the knitting expands evenly.
10-12th rows: 3 increases in each row = 33 sc
Rows 13-15: 33 sc each
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2) Knitting the base of a heating pad
Attach green yarn and knit in a spiral. We make increments according to the shape of the teapot. I got 3 increases in a row.
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When we have knitted to the upper bases of the spout and handle, we knit the two sides of the heating pad separately (if the spout and handle are on the same, or almost the same level). So I knitted a heating pad "Sheep on the Hill". But on this kettle, the upper base of the handle is higher than the spout. Therefore, I continued knitting in turning rows with one fabric. For the cutout under the handle, I left three loops undone
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4) Having knitted it to the upper base of the spout, I continued to knit the two halves (sides) of the heating pad separately. I made one increase per row, on each side of the heating pad. When the knitting reached the maximum width of the kettle, I continued knitting without any increases. If the last row of the first sidewall ends near the spout, then we knit a chain of air loops and leave it loose. We will later need this chain to connect the two halves of the heating pad.
When knitting in rotary rows, the texture of the fabric is different from the texture when knitting in a spiral. Therefore, in order for the sides of the heating pad to look exactly the same, we begin to knit the second side, as if continuing to knit the first row of the first side, leaving several loops unknitted (for me these are three loops). I hope I didn't explain it too confusingly :)
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When both halves of the heating pad are connected, we connect them with a chain of air loops. Make the chain such a length that it fits around the nose quite freely. Attach the chain by knitting a connecting stitch into the first loop of the row
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Attention! When knitting a chain of air loops under the spout, we do not tie the chain with stitches, but knit stitches on the half loops of the chain.
We do not knit the heating pad to the very bottom - we leave room for tying
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7) We tie the cutout for the handle and the hole for the spout with a row of single crochets and a row of connecting posts.
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8) We tie the bottom of the heating pad with lush columns.
Tying with lush columns. We knit a single crochet into the first loop of the row. In the second loop we knit a fluffy stitch of 3-5 double crochets, then we knit an air loop and again a single crochet in the third loop of the row. In this way we knit the entire row. A more embossed pattern is obtained if between the lush columns you knit not a single crochet, but a connecting column
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For the jumper fastener, we cast on a chain of air loops of the required length (I have 4 loops). Then we continue to knit the chain for the buttonhole (I got 10 chain loops). We form a loop using a connecting post (I made a ss in the 11th loop from the hook). Knitted, tried on - the button should fit into the loop without effort. We knit connecting posts on the half loops of the chain. Having reached the end of the chain, we knit a continuation of the chain of air loops and connect it into a ring. We knit a ss on the second half loops of the chain and continue to knit a ss on the chain that forms the loop, and then in a circle (shown by black arrows). Having knitted a ss on the second loop, you can stop there. If you want to make the jumper wider, you can knit another circle of connecting posts
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10) We sew buttons on the leg. There are many master classes on sewing buttons on the Internet. Or you can immediately take a button with a leg.
The base of the heating pad is connected!
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11) Let's return to our hedgehog. In order for it to be plump and keep its shape, we need to stuff it. But at the same time, it should fit freely onto the teapot. To do this, we will connect this inner part - a cone.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2nd-3rd rows: 6 increases in each row = 18 sc
4-7th rows: 3 increases in each row = 30 sc
8-9th rows: 1 increase in each row = 32 sc
Note. We make one column less in the last row than we did in the last row of the outer cone-body. This is so that this inner part, like a nesting doll, can be freely inserted into the outer
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12) We put the cone into the body of the hedgehog. Carefully sew with monofilament, leaving a hole for stuffing. We put stuffing into the top of the head, but so that the bottom doesn’t stick out - we make the stuffing medium-density. There is no need to put padding between the walls of the outer and inner parts - the thickness there is already sufficient. We sew up the hole and try on the heating pad once again.
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13) Knitting a hedgehog's head
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2-7th rows: 3 increases in each row = 24 sc
8th row: 6 increases = 30 sc
Rows 9-11: 30 sc.
12th row: 3 decreases = 27 sc
13th row: 3 decreases = 24 sc
This is the onion head we got
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14) We knit ears Thus. Insert the hook under the leg of the post in the intended place and pull out the loop. We knit a chain of four air loops. Stepping back a little, we attach the chain to the head with a connecting post. The result is a loop - the base of the ear. We unfold the knitting and tie a loop of 6-8 sc (we knit the sc by inserting the hook under the chain, and not into the loops of the chain). We end with a connecting post in the same place where we started the chain. We bring the ponytails to the back of the head through the thickness of the fabric using a needle and secure them with knots
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We knit the second ear in the same way. This is how we did it. Already looks like a muzzle
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15) Embroider the muzzle. The initial and last knots are made at the tip of the muzzle. Then this place will be closed with the nose.
16) We knit the nose.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2-4th rows: 6 increases in each row = 24 sc
5-7 row: 24 sc each
8th row: 3 decreases = 21 sc
We leave a long tail and, with its help, sew the nose to the muzzle (don’t forget to put in a lump of filler).
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Making an eye tightener. With a thin marker we mark two points where we plan to make the eyes (I was too lazy to do this and then redid the tightening). We take a thin but strong thread to match the head (I have “Iris”) and a long needle. We secure the thread with a knot in the intended place. We pierce the head with a needle and remove the needle at the second designated point. We make a small stitch and pass the needle in the opposite direction, bringing it out at the first point. We tighten the thread to create depressions. We repeat the entire procedure one or two more times. We fasten the thread and hide the tail in the thickness of the fabric
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18) We tint the depressions with acrylic paint. This step is optional, but I like to do it - the eyes turn out more expressive. Take a brush and moisten the hollows with clean water. We wet the area a little larger than necessary. We dilute the brown paint to an ink state, put it on a brush and apply it to the middle of each depression. The paint will distribute itself over the damp canvas as it should. Dry and repeat if necessary. It is better to use universal acrylic paint for artistic or design work. Unlike acrylic fabric paint, it does not require heat treatment to cure. When dry, it becomes indelible, and the heating pad can be easily washed.
19) Sew or glue the eyes.
The muzzle is ready!
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We sew the head to the body with monofilament
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21) We knit the paws.
Upper.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2nd row: 2 increases = 8 sc
3rd row: 8 sc
4th row: 1 decrease = 7 sc
5-6th rows: 7 sc each
Leave a long tail
Lower ones.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2nd row: 3 increases = 9 sc
Rows 3-5: 9 sc each
6th row: 1 decrease = 8 sc
Rows 7-13: 8 sc each
Leave a long tail.
You can tint the paws. To do this, wet them down to the middle of their length with clean water (you can directly dip them in water and squeeze them out). Then we dip the very tips of the paws into diluted brown paint a third of the length and then into black paint. Dry it. If necessary, repeat the procedure. The photo shows already tinted and dried paws
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We twist the wire to a length equal to the length of the upper leg. We pierce the body through the free end of the wire (first make a hole using a thick needle or knitting needle). We twist the wire for the second leg, cut off the tip
23) We put the paws on the frame and sew them with the remaining tails of yarn.
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We do the same with the lower legs. Only the wire should not pass through the entire body, but between the outer and inner layers. We bend the paws as we like
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25) Making pompoms for a hedgehog's fur coat.
We take yarn of two colors (I have dark gray and the color of unbleached linen).
We wind the yarn onto the template (book). You don’t need to wrap it tightly; for this it’s better to put something under it (I put a rolled up sheet of paper under it). The number of turns is determined experimentally - it all depends on the thickness of the yarn. You can first make one pompom on a small piece of cardboard and see how much yarn is needed.
After the yarn has been wound, take out the backing (twisted paper) and divide the winding into 4 cm long sections, tying with strong thin threads (I used gray Iris). We wrap the yarn with thread twice, then make a straight knot and an additional couple of simple knots. We leave the tails longer.
It turned out like a bunch of sausages. We cut our ligament between the knots.
Lightly trim the resulting pompoms (cut off only the threads that stick out too much).
If you don’t get the required number of pompoms, you can screw a few additional ones on a small piece of cardboard.
There is a lot of information on how to tie a straight knot.
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26) Let's start dressing our hedgehog.
We attach the first pompom to the hedgehog’s “forehead”. Using a hook, we drag the tails under the leg of the sc in the right place (attach the pompom first and see where you need to attach it).
We pull up both ends of the thread and tie it with a straight knot and, for security, a couple more simple knots. We cut the threads.
Do not cut the threads at the knot itself, leave small tails - this will guarantee that the knot will definitely not come undone, and the threads will not be visible in the mass of pompoms
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We continue tying the pompoms. The photo shows the order in which the pompoms are attached to the hedgehog's head.
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This is the kind of hat we got :)
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This photo shows the sequence of attaching pompoms to the body of a hedgehog
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After all the pompoms are tied, we make a model haircut. And now, the hedgehog is ready!
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We knit fly agarics
27) Big mushroom.
hat
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2-11th rows: 2 increases in each row = 26 sc
12-14th rows: 4 increases in each row = 38 sc
Leg
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2nd row: 3 increases = 9 sc
3-4th rows of 9 sc
5th row: 1 decrease = 8 sc
6-7th rows: 8 sc each
8th row: on the front (near) half-loops we knit 2 rows of sc, each time knitting 2 sc in each half-loop. It turns out to be a mushroom collar. We finish knitting with a connecting stitch and cut off the thread. Attach the thread again and knit 8 sc on the purl (distant) half-loops.
Rows 9-11: 8 sc each
Rows 12-16, 6 increases per row = 38 sc
28) Small mushroom.
hat
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2nd row: 6 increases = 12 sc
3-6th rows: 1 increase in each row = 16 sc
7-8th rows: 2 increases in each row = 20 sc
9th row: 4 increases = 24 sc
Leg
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2nd row: 2 increases = 8 sc
3-6th rows: 8 sc each
7-8th rows: 6 increases in each row = 20 sc
9th row: 4 increases = 24 sc
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Stuff the leg with filler. Place a lump of filler at the top of the cap. We connect the cap and the lower part of the mushroom by knitting a row of sc. Additionally, you can knit a number of connecting posts
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30) We embroider white specks on the hat. At the top of the head we make fewer specks (one stitch) and place them more often. Below the specks we make them larger (2 and 3 stitches) and place them less frequently.
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We sew fly agarics to the heating pad using monofilament thread. First we sew on the legs, and then the edges of the caps touching the heating pad fabric
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Decorating the heating pad
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We embroider blades of grass with thin yarn. I embroidered the curls with a chain stitch using a crochet hook.
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33) We knit the leaves according to the pattern shown in the photo.
If you want to make the leaf smaller or larger, then simply change the number of loops in the initial chain and, accordingly, the number of double crochets in the center of the leaf
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34) There are many schemes in a wide variety of colors. For decorating warmers, I like these. They knit very simply.
We knit 5 sc into the amigurumi ring.
We connect the last and first stitch with a connecting stitch and knit two air loops.
In the same base loop we knit three double crochets and again knit 2 ch.
We make a connecting column into the second loop of the base - we get the first petal.
We knit 2 ch again and repeat the whole process - we get the second petal.
We knit all five petals in this way.
We tuck the end of the yarn to the wrong side and secure it with a knot.
The initial row can be made from 6 sc - you get 6 petals.
The photo shows a diagram of a similar flower, but larger. We knit not two, but three chain stitches and, accordingly, not 3 double crochets, but 3 double crochets
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Flowers can be tinted with acrylic paint. To do this, moisten the flower with clean water (without touching the edges of the petals) and apply the diluted paint with a brush. Dry it. We embroider the centers of the flowers with beads or sew on a bead. You can also use sequins
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We sew flowers and leaves to the heating pad using monofilament thread
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When you start decorating the heating pad, make sure that the decor is not located close to the handle. It is better to first pin all the parts with pins and check whether it is convenient to take the kettle. Also, do not sew anything close to the buttons.
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It's under the spout where the heating pad gets dirty the most. Therefore, do not sew anything in this place. When washing a heating pad, it is recommended to rub this place with a brush, as excess parts will get in the way
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A couple of tips for beginners.
When knitting a heating pad, all tails of yarn must be knitted into the fabric or removed into the thickness of the fabric using a needle (there are many tips and master classes on how best to do this). Decorative details are best sewn on with monofilament. It is thin, strong and transparent. Sold in any craft supply stores. Ideally, only the chain stitch line should be visible on the wrong side of the warmer. Equally neat front and back sides make even the simplest thing look high-quality and attractive. Also make sure that the knitting is tight. The surface of the kettle should not be visible through the fabric of the heating pad, and the stuffing of the hedgehog should not be visible.
That's it, that's all. Good luck!
And here is the finished heating pad:
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Let's crochet a warmer in the shape of a small bright house.
To knit a heating pad for a teapot we will need:
- Yarn of several colors;
- Hook;
- Glue gun;
- Red beads.
Description of work
We knit first for the house roof. You can knit such a heating pad from inexpensive Karachay yarn. It is somewhat rigid and thanks to this it will keep its shape perfectly.
Let's make 2 loops. And then in 2 we knit a row of single crochets. There will be a total of 6 columns in the first row.
Next we knit another row in a circle. All rows are knitted behind the front walls.
Now we will knit 6 increases per row. We knitted a row and made increases in the next row. And we repeat. We distribute the increments evenly.
First we knit them in each of the loops, then through the loop, through 2, then through 3 and so on. We knit until the base of the roof becomes equal in diameter to the lid of the kettle itself. Let's mark this row.
Now let's complete a row and make additions every 2 stitches. And we will knit the new row without increases.
Let's change the thread and continue knitting house walls. We knit it from the inside in the row that we marked when knitting the roof.
Having knitted 1-2 rows, divide the knitting in half. And we knit 2 parts of the house separately.
We knit almost to the very end of the kettle. You don't need to knit a couple of rows.
Now we will attach green yarn to one part. It will be grass. And we knit a row of single crochets before the beginning of part 2. We connect with part 2 and also knit single crochets along it.
You can knit another row. On one side our knitting is connected, but on the other it is not.
Let's tie door. Let's make 12 loops and knit, starting with 3 loops, half double crochets. And in the very last loop we knit 5 stitches at once. Next we move to the other side of the chain and knit half double crochets here as well. And then we turn the knitting back. We knit 1 more row. And in the rounding we perform 5 increments. And then we simply tie the door with half double crochets.
Let's make a row of yarn of a different color, knitting it behind the front wall with half double crochets. We do not tie the bottom of the door.
Let's connect. Cast on 6 loops with yellow yarn and knit a connecting stitch to the one farthest from the hook. Let's make 5 loops and knit the connecting stitch again in the same place. And we will repeat 3 more petals from 5 loops and a connecting column. We knit 5 of these flowers.
We knit leaves. We perform 6 loops. We knit a connecting stitch, then a single crochet, a double crochet, again a single crochet and a connecting stitch.
Glue the door and flowers with hot glue. And in the middle of the flowers we glue red beads.
You can use any to decorate the house.
As a fastener on the heating pad, you can make 2 ties on the side of the handle (under it).
The kettle warmer is ready!
Other crocheted warmers on our website:
Did you like the product and want to order the same from the author? Write to us.
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A knitted teapot warmer will help keep tea hot and tasty for a long time, and in addition, will create an atmosphere of comfort and harmony in your kitchen.
Let's connect! From time immemorial, a teapot warmer has been an indispensable attribute of traditional Russian tea drinking.
Try knitting your favorite hot water bottle for a teapot with your own hands and surprise your family and friends with an original gift.
With the help of a hook, yarn and your imagination you can create real masterpieces!
We crochet a heating pad for a teapot using patterns
In order to knit the “House” heating pad, as well as a hot stand in the same style, you will need blue, light and dark brown yarn.
The diagram of a heating pad for a teapot will help you make an original heating pad house.
First, for the heating pad we knit the walls, which will consist of six squares.
The squares are sewn together and tied around the perimeter.
The diagram shows in more detail how the square is knitted and how it is connected to other similar elements.
To knit squares, you need to use yarn of different colors.
The first row is knitted with light brown yarn, the second row is knitted with blue yarn, and the third row is knitted with dark brown yarn.
In the fourth row and for tying, light brown yarn is also used.
After the walls for the warming house are completed, the roof is knitted.
The diagram below shows how to knit it, alternating yarn of different shades: light and dark brown colors are repeated every other row. 
To make it convenient to remove the heating pad from the kettle, make a loop: crochet a chain consisting of 15 air loops and close it into a loop.
Tie it in a circle with half-columns and sew it to the roof of the house. The knitting pattern for the stand is presented below.
To create a stand, also use different colors of yarn.
And the stand for it is ready! All you have to do is enjoy your tea party and your original creation!
Prepare your teapot for the winter cold and crochet another unusual “clothes” for it.
The diagram of a heating pad for a teapot is presented below. There is no need to strictly use the colors shown in the example.
Create your own color scheme by experimenting with different shades.
After all, knitting is a fascinating creative process!
Inspired by the ideas presented in the material, you can create your own unusual hot water bottles that will lift your spirits and surprise your guests invited to a cup of delicious tea.
Every needlewoman can create, it’s enough to put in a little effort and imagination to bring an original idea to life! 
Good afternoon, dear needlewomen and all blog guests!
Once on the Internet I saw a photo of a beautiful knitted heating pad for a teapot with roses and was inspired to knit such a cute little thing.
I don't cover the teapot with a heating pad, I just use it as kitchen decor. The teapot in such clothes, and even looks nice next to the knitted cups.
Three centuries ago they put hot water bottles on a teapot or samovar. Then these were dolls or chickens sewn from several dense layers of fabric with fluffy skirts. Warmers were decorated with embroidery, special decorative or protective ornaments. Housewives made warmers for the teapot with their own hands especially as gifts for guests.
You can’t put a heating pad on the kettle immediately after brewing tea; the tea leaves will simply dry out.
Such heating pads were previously needed for tea ceremonies and tea parties without fuss. Then at the end of the tea party, to prevent the tea from getting cold, they put a heating pad on the teapot.
Today, needlewomen sew and knit teapot warmers, which are probably more decorative.
While my warmer was waiting for its time to go on air, I accumulated many more unusual ideas for knitted warmers for a teapot, sometimes unexpected, photos of which I will show you.
Knitting heating pad for a teapot
Using my simple example, I’ll tell you how to make a heating pad for a teapot, and you can use your imagination and make it your own.
We have already crocheted a chicken for a teapot, today we have crocheted a warmer for a teapot with roses. You can also crochet it using the same principle.
We use leftover yarn. They can always find interesting uses. I have a selection of ideas from leftover yarn, some quite interesting, and some downright unusual.
For the cover itself I used green yarn, for the flowers I chose pink. I took knitting needles number 2.5.
We cast on approximately 41 loops + 2 edge loops across the width of half the diameter of the teapot. You can tie the heating pad so that it sits tightly on the teapot, especially if it will perform a practical function, or you can make it looser.
We knit the fabric with the selected pattern. I knitted with an elastic band:
Row 1 – k1, p1.
2nd row – k1, yarn over, purl
3rd and all the following rows: knit the front row together with the yarn over, yarn over, remove the back row.
Having knitted about 10 centimeters, I switched to knitting in stockinette stitch. We begin to make decreases: in each front row I knitted two loops together in four places: along the edges and in the middle part.
Having knitted 6-7 centimeters in this way, we close the remaining loops, tightening them.
We knit the second half of the cover in the same way.
Then we sew both parts on both sides at the top and bottom, about two centimeters long. We need unsewn slots for the spout and handle of the teapot.
We put a knitted heating pad on the teapot and decorate it with roses.
I also knitted roses.
How to knit roses with knitting needles
I knitted the stripes in stockinette stitch on 65 stitches, 8 rows wide. We twist the strips into roses, securing them with a needle and thread.
In the description I found of knitting such a heating pad, it was also recommended to knit a round platform-lid and sew roses on it. But I decided to sew the roses directly onto the knitted cover.
As you can see, it is very easy to knit a heating pad for a teapot.
You can knit the cover another way: with straight fabric, without decreasing the loops. Make it higher and tie it with braid on top of the teapot.
The side seams can have button closures or ribbon ties.
And make the decor not only with roses, but also with other flowers, as well as ladybugs, berries, pom-poms, use various patterns, knit a heating pad for a teapot in the shape of a pumpkin, house, cat or dog.
Ideas for knitted teapot warmers. Photo
Have you already knitted warmers for a teapot?
Creative success to you! Come in for new ideas!
In winter we often drink delicious and hot tea. And to keep it that way longer, we need a “Dog” teapot warmer, which is not difficult to crochet. We offer you a master class in which the knitting pattern is described in detail. A description of the materials and stages of work will help you create a useful item.
We will need:
- yellow yarn;
- yarn of brown (or any dark) color;
- fluffy beige yarn (you can use nako paris);
- hook No. 3;
- needle;
- 2 black beads;
- padding polyester;
- a beautiful ribbon or lace.
How to crochet a heating pad for a teapot
Let's start with the basics. Let's make 2 loops first. Then we will proceed to row 1 of the top of the heating pad.
We knit a row in the farthest loop from the hook, which consists of 6 single crochets.
After this row, you need to knit several rows in a row with increases. The number of these rows can be any. It depends on the size of the teapot.
We distribute the increments evenly. That is, if in the 2nd row they go to all loops, then in the 3rd through 1 loop, in the fourth through 2 and so on.
We need to knit a circle that will be slightly larger in diameter than the teapot lid. 
And then we just knit rows in a circle without any increments. We tie it to the spout with a handle and divide the knitting in half. 
Now we knit first 1 half of the heating pad and then the other. They should be the same and reach almost to the end of the kettle. 
Now we will attach a fluffy thread to one of the ends. You can use any.
And we knit single crochets, connecting 2 parts on 1 side. There is no need to connect to the other one. There will be a handle and a tie to take the heating pad on and off.
Let's knit 1 more row. 
Now let's tie the head. First you need to knit the circle.
We make 2 loops. And then we begin to knit a row of 6 stitches in the farthest one.
Evenly, as in the main part, we make increases until we have collected 42 loops.
Now we need to knit 3 rows in a circle. And after that, start making decreases.
We will decrease in every 6 stitches. In the next row in every 5, then in 4 and so on along the rows. When there are only 6 loops left, we will pull them off. But here you also need to remember to fill your head with padding polyester. 
Let's knit the muzzle. And for this we will again knit a row of 6 stitches. After which we will perform 2 rows with additions. In row 2 you need to increase in all loops and in row 3 through the loop.
We will knit another 2-3 rows in the round. 
We sew the muzzle to our ball - the dog's head, also filling it with padding polyester.
We embroider the nose with brown or any dark yarn. 
Now let's tie the ears. Let's make them fluffy, like a trim around the bottom of a heating pad.
We knit 12 loops. We skip a loop and knit into the next half double crochet. We knit half double crochets along the chain, leaving 4 loops short. In 3 of them we knit double crochets. And in 4 we will knit 6 double crochets at once.
On the other side we will knit 3 double crochets and finish the ear knitting with half double crochets. 
Let's sew on the ears. We will also sew on eyes (beads). We sew the dog's head to the main part so that the teapot's spout looks as if it were a tail.
The teapot warmer in the shape of a dog is ready! As it turns out, crocheting is not that difficult. 
And this is how you can connect
