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Tricks of sewing knitwear on a conventional sewing machine. How to sew knitwear on a conventional sewing machine What stitch to sew
Many types of knitwear do not crumble, so the processing of sections of the product is not required. Enough to grind the details. There are five ways to perform "knitted" seams on a sewing machine.
straight stitch
It is suitable only for slightly stretchy knitted fabrics, as it does not have elasticity. While sewing parts, the fabric needs to be pulled slightly towards itself. Then it will take its original shape, and the line will be strong. After sewing the parts, iron the seam. You can use a multifunctional ironing pad.
Zigzag stitch
Suitable for all types of knitwear. The zigzag stitch does not pull the fabric together while sewing. On the typewriter, set the minimum values \u200b\u200bof the length and width of the stitch, the line should turn out to be narrow. Do not stretch the fabric while sewing. Iron the seam allowances after sewing.
Double stitch
Details are ground with two straight or zigzag stitches, which are performed in parallel, at a distance of 3 mm from each other. First sew one stitch with a 1.5 cm allowance. Then step back about 3 mm towards the cut and sew the second stitch. Cut off excess allowance close to the line. Sewing scissors are available.
Double needle stitch
This seam is suitable for any kind. The sewing function is available in almost all modern sewing machines. Follow the instructions for working with . Thread the left needle first, then the right needle. Sew parts at slow speed.
The stitching retains its elasticity thanks to the zigzag stitch formed by the shuttle thread on the back of the seam.
Stretch line
This narrow stitch is specially designed for joining knitted fabrics on a sewing machine and being able to flatten seams completely flat.
If there is still a need to process open sections, use a line that imitates an overlock seam.
The result is a strong seam and a finished edge, as in.
For convenience, overlock stitching is performed using the edging foot. The width of the seam is approximately 5 mm. Do not stretch the fabric while sewing.
Photo: Julia Dekanova
The material was prepared by Yulia Dekanova
In order to make a new knitted product on knitting needles, you need to knit its individual parts, and then the question arises, how to properly combine the resulting individual parts into a complete product? Moreover, the seam of the parts should not violate the knitting pattern. To connect, use a knitted stitch in knitting. Dont know…
Knitted stitch in knitting
There are different types of knit stitch in knitting. The choice of seam depends both on the pattern, the thickness of the yarn, and on the texture of the fabric. It is performed not only with knitting needles, but also with a crochet, but that's another story.
If the knitwear is not too voluminous, then the details of such a product can be sewn with a large stitch manually using a darning needle (with a large eye and a blunt end) or on a sewing machine. It is desirable to make stitches with the same yarn as the entire product.
Let's look at the types of seam in more detail with photos and videos for a better understanding.
Horizontal seam
Intended: a bunch of two parts in opposite directions.
In appearance, it is invisible, similar to an ordinary knitted row, ideal for products made from bulk yarn.
When you finish knitting a part, then closing the loops is not necessary! Or knit 2 - 3 rows with a contrasting thread in the same way, without closing the loops.
Thread the threads that you used to knit the product into a darning needle.
Lay the pieces with open loops opposite each other on a flat surface.
Connect the loops, picking them up from the knitting needles. If you used the contrast thread method, then gradually unravel the area with the other thread at the same time as tying.
You should get a horizontal seam as in the photo. 
Intended: a bunch of two parts in one direction, editing and restoration of the product.
A knitted stitch in knitting called "Loop in a loop" will save you from the dreary work of bandaging, because you can remove only a certain part of the product, or shorten it.
How to implement? 
Mark the boundaries of the restoration
Cut the thread and carefully remove it.
Do not close loops.
Take a darning needle, the yarn with which you knitted the product, and connect them together. The length of the thread should be 4 times longer than the area to be stitched. It is better to take more thread than to tie another thread to it or redo it.
Open loops are sewn on the front side. Don't pull too tight!
Try to repeat the pattern of the product and imitate the loops as in knitting. 
If the photo did not help you understand the knitted seam technology, then use the instructions or watch the video.
Step-by-step instructions knitted stitch "loop to loop" in knitting
Anchor the thread on the bottom fabric on the right (as most people are right-handed, left-handers can turn the piece over and start from the top fabric on the left).
Insert the needle into the first loop from the wrong side.
Insert the needle from the bottom - up into the extreme loops, then from the top - down (left-handers, do everything vice versa, respectively).
Sew the first stitch of the bottom row to the first stitch of the top row, and so on.
During all this firmware, do not forget to remove the loops from the knitting needles.
Look at the picture again and compare your result with the image.
Vertical knit stitch
Intended: joining two parts with a butt seam. Also known as "Mattress Stitch".
This type of knitted stitch in knitting is used for sewing the side edges of the details on the front side. 
Looks like a purl row.
Important: the sides to be sewn should be with an equal number of rows, so if you are going to change the number of loops, then do it not at the edges. Do not pull the thread tight while sewing the pieces.
How to do this?
Lay the pieces right side up next to each other.
Connect the edges of the typesetting rows (connect the extreme loops of the bottom row).
Sew the second from the edge of the loop, and not the most extreme, which are closed. Don't skip a single stitch!
The path of your thread is similar to the gait of a snake (although this method is noticeable) or a zigzag (below in the photo), which technique you like best There are two ways to connect. The zigzag is less noticeable, as it turns out a flat seam, similar to the wrong loop.
Kettelny seam
Let's look at the third type of knit stitch in knitting.
Intended: to connect two parts with open loops in the shortest time with the highest probability of success. Used for edging the edges of knitted products, as well as for sewing details to the product: collar, pockets, etc.
Benefits: It doesn't matter which side you sew from, it will turn out aesthetically and imperceptibly in any case. 
Important: if the thread from which the product was made was used for the previous seams, then here it is necessary to take a thinner thread!
We sew!
This type of seam can be described as follows: do not close the loops and sew them like regular fabric!
Let's take a closer look:
Check out the photo.
Lay the two pieces opposite each other with open loops.
Thread the thinner thread into the needle.
Start on the side that is comfortable for you (usually on the right), sew 2 loops forward
Start a new step from the previous loop. That is, literally take two steps forward, one back.
Below are videos that explain in detail the technology of the knitted seam.
Before the advent of machine tools, everything that needed to be sewn was sewn by hand. And even now there are still masters working in this way. In most cases, hand sewing on leather is used in cases where a higher quality of leather products is needed. In English, the name of this seam sounds like “Saddle stitch” and translates as “Saddle stitch”. It was originally used in the manufacture of saddles.
Differences between hand and machine stitch.
The difference between a hand seam and a sewing machine seam can be clearly seen in figure A.
Figure A
If the thread breaks at a machine seam, the few stitches closest to the break will unravel. And gradually it will begin to bloom further. If the thread breaks at the saddle seam, the second thread will remain intact, and the seam will not begin to diverge further.
How to hold needles and an awl.
- Take the needles and hold them as shown in Figure 1. Let the entire length of the thread on each side come down.
Picture 1 - Now take the awl in your right hand (Figure 2). Hold with your thumb. Place your little finger on the handle of the awl. Hold the needle between your fingers. Do not lower the needle or awl while sewing! At first it will be uncomfortable; actions will seem clumsy. It will be tempting to put down the awl after the hole is pierced. Hold it in your hand! Follow the instructions and after a while you will sew by hand correctly, easily and comfortably.
Figure 2 We start sewing.
- Hold the needles between your fingers. Turn your hand and pierce the second hole with the awl as shown in Figure 3. Make sure the hole is pierced at the correct angle with the correct awl blade. Help with your left hand. Don't put needles!
Figure 3 - After you have pierced the second hole, grasp the needle (left hand) with your thumb and forefinger as shown in Figure 4. Grab the needle (right hand) with your thumb and forefinger as shown. Hold the awl in your hand, don't put it down! Each hand must operate the needle and/or awl without the assistance of the other hand.
Figure 4 - Pass the needle "A" through the second hole with rear sides (Figure 5). Always thread the back needle through the hole first.
Figure 5 - Place the needle "B" - in the right hand - under the needle "A", as shown in figure 6.
Figure 6 - Raise your right hand to take the needle "A" with your fingers (Figure 7). Needle "B" should still remain under needle "A".
Figure 7 - Now move your right hand out to the side, holding both needles until the "A" needle passes through the hole. Pull a few inches of thread through the hole (Figure 8).
Figure 8 - Turn your right hand around and insert the "B" needle into the hole next to the "A" needle... which is already in. With your left hand, take the needle by the back (Figure 9). Always pass the right needle through the hole with the same side of the thread.
Figure 9 - Passing the needle "B" through the hole, pull the thread with your left hand (Figure 10). Thus, the tip of the needle will not penetrate the strands of thread. The needle must be removed if it passes through the strands of thread, otherwise the stitch will be uneven.
Figure 10 - When the right hand has almost pushed the needle, release the thread with the left hand and take the needle "B" as shown in Figure 11. The needle "A" is still in the right hand.
Figure 11 - Now continue to draw out the needle "B" and pull out a few inches of thread from the hole (Figure 12).
Figure 12 - Grab the needle again with your fingers. Press the thread with the ring finger and little finger (Figure 13), pull and loosen the thread. Simultaneously with the previous action, again take the right needle with your fingers. Press the thread with your little finger, pull lightly.
Figure 13 - Now extend your arms to their full length to stretch the loose thread. Spread your arms as shown in Figure 14. This method makes sewing easier, and the thread pulled through the holes wears out and rubs less.
Figure 14 - After pulling the threads, return your hands to the product again. Let the threads fall under the little fingers. Intercept the threads closer to the skin (Figure 15). Take the threads that you stretched before.
Figure 15 - Pull on the threads while at the same time turning your arms away from the skin. Pull out the little fingers so that the thread passes before them. The threads (under the thumbs) should pass over the tips of the index and middle fingers. Figure 16.
Figure 16 - Place your little fingers over the thread as shown in Figure 17. Press firmly. This action will secure the threads between the fingers. Thus, the effort to pull the thread will fall on the bottom of the little fingers, and not on the needle eyes.
Figure 17 - Pull to pull through the remaining loose threads (Figure 18). If the outstretched arms do not allow loose threads to be pulled through, loosen the threads again and repeat steps 15-16-17. Hold the needles between your fingers, the awl remains in your right hand.
Figure 18 - When tightening the threads, apply the same force with both hands. To tighten the stitch, firmly grasp the threads and pull until they fall into the cut groove (Figure 19). You have finished the first stitch! Lower the threads, return the awl to the position in the right hand, as indicated in step 2. Pierce the 3rd hole. See Figure 3 for the correct placement of your hands and needles. Continue sewing as instructed, steps 3-19.
Figure 19 - Always thread the needle through the hole from the back first. Always try to pierce the holes at the correct angle so that the puncture comes out in a recess on the back side (figure 20).
Figure 20 - Special note. When threading needle "B" through the hole, always keep it on the same side as the thread of needle "A". This way the stitches will appear the same. Always thread the needle through the hole from the back first. Figure 21.
Figure 21 - We continue to sew, following the instructions of steps 3 - 19.
- When you have reached the opposite part of the vice for sewing (saddler), move the product (Figure 22). Clamp again so that the stitches pass over the vise. Thanks to this support, it is more convenient to pierce holes. Do not use the top of the saddle as a "guide" for punching holes. Pierce one hole at a time. Install the vise as shown - next to the cut recess.
Figure 22 - Continue sewing to the corner. Turn the product to sew the edge. If the length of the product does not allow it to fit in the vise, rotate the product at an angle as shown in Figure 23 and clamp the vise next to the cut recess. It may be necessary to re-clamp the product several times so that the vise is located next to the recess when you sew the edge.
Figure 23 - Continue to sew the entire length of the product in a circle. Until there is one stitch left to the hole you started from. Clamp the product again in a vise so that the seam is located above the vise (Figure 24).
Figure 24 - Carefully thread the awl into the first hole so as not to cut the thread. With practice, you will learn to "feel" the awl and not cut the thread. Figure 25.
Figure 25 - Pass the needles as shown in Figure 26 and tighten the stitch firmly.
Figure 26 - To complete the stitching, make two double stitches (small arrows). Widen the double stitch holes with an awl and thread the needles through. Tighten the threads of each stitch tightly. Figure 27.
Figure 27 - Remove the item from the vise. Cut the threads on both sides in the seam recess. Use only a sharp knife (Figure 28). Sewing completed.
Figure 28 - Lay the product on a flat, hard surface and “tap” the seam with a smooth mallet. Figure 29.
Figure 29 - Go over the entire surface of the seam with a stitch marker. This action adds the final touch of professionalism - it really helps improve the look of any slightly uneven stitches. Figure 30.
Figure 30 In order to use the arsenal of hand seams, we suggest getting to know them better. Such knowledge can be useful to you in your work, since the tailoring of each product begins with manual work - we perform copy stitches, basting parts and many other sewing operations manually. Stitch by stitch, lines are born, although not poetic, but created with the help of threads, but no less beautiful. So, let's deal with stitches and lines - what they are, which ones we regularly use in our work, and which ones we may have forgotten, but it's worth remembering!
Hand stitches - classification
All hand stitches are divided according to the location of the stitches on the fabric (straight oblique, cruciform, loop-shaped, looped). And the lines themselves are divided according to their purpose: basting, basting, scribing, hemming, finishing, etc. For simplicity of the picture and greater clarity, we present hand stitches and lines in the form of a table.
Table. Types of hand stitches and stitches
The lines, as mentioned above, consist of stitches, and the stitches are divided into straight oblique, cruciform, loop-shaped, looped. Let's study them in more detail.
Straight stitches
Straight stitches are used to temporarily connect and secure parts in preparation for fitting. With the help of straight stitches, chalk lines of seam allowances, markings of adjusting parts (pockets, belt loops), control marks for sewing in sleeves, collars, etc., the formation of assemblies are indicated.
Rice. Straight stitches
Straight stitches can be used for basting, basting, basting, basting, copying and gathering stitches. Straight stitches make up the stitches that we will discuss below.
Rice. Transfer marking to the front side of the part with straight stitches
Basting line
Basting line is performed for temporary connection (basting) of product parts. The parts are folded, the cuts are leveled along the edge, the parts are swept away without tension or with a slight fit of one of the parts (shoulder and side cuts, sleeve seams are swept away, sleeves are sewn into the armhole, collar details, etc.). The length of the stitches may vary depending on the fabric and purpose of the stitch (from 0.5 to 5 cm). When sewing a line without landing, the stitch length is from 1.5 to 2 cm, with a landing - from 0.7 to 1.5 cm.
Note stitch
Rice. Remark stitch straight stitches
With note lines with a straight stitch, fold and fasten allowances along the bottom of the product and sleeves. The stitch length of the note stitch is 1-3 cm depending on the type of fabric.
Basting stitch
Rice. Basting stitch straight stitches
Basting straight lines fasten the parts of the product together by applying one part to another and further basting. They baste the side gasket on the shelf, pockets, etc. The lines are performed without landing and with landing.
Copy stitch
Rice. Straight Stitch Copy Stitch
Copy stitches are used to transfer contours and markings on paired parts. The parts are superimposed on each other, aligned along the cuts, copy stitches 0.5-1.5 cm long (depending on the type of fabric) are laid along the markup, loops 1-1.5 cm high are pulled out. Then the parts are carefully moved apart and cut in the center stitches.
Rice. Assembly line
For the formation of assemblies, a straight stitch is used. Two lines are laid at a distance of 0.2-0.4 cm from each other with a stitch length of 0.5-0.7 cm. The threads are pulled to the desired length with the formation of folds.
Bias stitches
Skew stitches are also used for temporary and permanent fastening of parts, but skew stitches, unlike straight stitches, create stronger and more elastic connections. Oblique stitches for temporary purposes are used for basting and basting stitches, for permanent purposes - overcasting, as well as quilting, hemming and stitching (used for inconspicuous connection of parts).
Rice. Bias stitches
The following types of stitches are sewn with oblique stitches.
Basting stitch
Rice. Basting stitch with bias stitches
The basting stitch of bias stitches is used in cases where it is required to obtain a stable, strong connection of several layers of fabric. This line eliminates the displacement of parts in the process of further processing. Baste the details of pockets, collars, selection on the shelves, etc. Stitch length 0.5-2 cm.
Rice. Shirt pockets with tucked in allowances
Basting stitch
Rice. Basting stitch with bias stitches
The basting stitch with bias stitches is used to finish the edges of stitched parts. To begin with, the parts are machine-stitched, the allowances are trimmed, the parts are folded to the front side, the seams are straightened and sewn with oblique stitches on the front side. Allowances remain inside.
Rice. Pocket flap basting
Overlock stitch
Rice. Overcasting with bias stitches
Overcasting stitches with oblique stitches are performed when overcasting sections of parts, in order to protect them from shedding. This line is also performed on products with a lining. The overcasting line, made with thin silk threads, is practically invisible when sewing products from thin fabrics and does not create an excessive thickness of the seam allowance, which is important for the appearance of the product. As a rule, 3-4 stitches are performed for every 10 mm of a length of 0.5-0.7 cm.
Quilting stitch
Rice. Quilting stitches
Quilting stitches are used to join multiple layers of pieces - usually base and interlining fabrics - to give a piece that holds its shape well and to give it a certain curve to fit. The lining fabric is stitched through, the main fabric by half the thickness. On the front side, the quilting line should not be visible.
Rice. Quilting stitches for jackets
Shelves of men's suits and coats, selection, collars are quilted. In this case, oblique stitches are performed over the entire surface of the part. Depending on the fabric, the length and distance between stitches may vary: stitch length 0.5-1.5 cm, width 0.5-0.7 cm, distance between lines 0.5-0.7 cm.
Hem stitch
Hem stitching with oblique stitches is used when securing allowances and folded parts with open cuts and is performed similarly to overcasting (Fig. Overcasting stitch with oblique stitches). This line is used to process allowances and hem of the bottom of the sleeves in a jacket with lining on loose fabrics, etc. Perform 3-4 stitches for every 10 mm, stitch length 0.4-0.5 cm.
Stitch stitch
Rice. Stitch stitch
The stitch stitch is mainly used for repairing clothes. With its help, dense, non-shrinking tissues are sewn together in places of rupture or cut. 6-7 stitches are made for every 10 mm, 0.2-0.3 cm long.
Cross stitches
Cross stitches are used for hemming the bottom of products. A feature of manual hemming is the absence of a seam on the front side of the product. It is standard to sew 2-3 stitches for every 10 mm of length for easily fraying fabrics and 1 stitch for every 5 mm for normal fabrics. Stitch width 0.3-0.5 cm depending on the type of fabric. The hem can be made open along the edge or hidden - inside the hem allowance. Cross stitches are also used for finishing stitches in the manufacture of women's and children's clothing.
Cross Stitch
Rice. Cross Stitch
Cross stitches are divided into hemming and finishing stitches. Hem stitches are very flexible, due to the interweaving of stitches cross-over and are used to fix the hem of the product and sleeves. Also, cross stitches are used for finishing women's and children's clothing.
Rice. Hem cross stitch
Loop stitches
Loop stitches are used for the most durable and elastic stitches. Using loop stitches, permanent stitches can be sewn for a strong blind fastening of parts. With the help of loop stitches, sewing, hemming, fluffy, marking lines are performed. The very name "loop-shaped" indicates that the stitches are made in the form of a loop.
Stitch stitch
Rice. Stitched hand stitch
The stitch line resembles a machine seam and is performed in those places where it is not possible or difficult to perform a machine line. Its peculiarity is that there are no gaps between the stitches, and the needle enters into the exit of the previous stitch.
Fluff Stitch
Rice. Fluff Stitch
The fluffy finishing stitch is used to finish the edges of cuffs, sleeves, lapels of jackets and coats, sides, etc. The distance between the stitches, as well as the length of the stitches, is determined by the designer.
Rice. Fluffy hand seam
Another such manual seam is called "back needle". The top layer of fabric is pierced through, the bottom half. Fluff stitching can also be used to fix internal allowances in order to secure them in the product (turning, picking, etc.).
Marking stitch
Marking stitches are performed similarly to fluff stitches and are used mainly for flexible permanent fastening of two or more layers of fabric in places where it is necessary (for example, they fix allowances on the lining of sleeves, selection, sew shoulder pads, etc.) Stitch length - 1.5- 2 cm
Copy stitch
Rice. Copy Stitch Loop Stitch
The loop stitch copy stitch is used to transfer outline markings to paired parts. After each stitch, the thread is pulled out by 1-1.5 cm. The length of the stitches is 0.5-0.7 cm, 1-2 stitches for every 10 mm of stitching. After the stitches are laid, the parts are moved apart and the threads are cut in the center.
Hem stitch
Rice. Hem buttonhole stitch
The hem stitch is used to permanently secure the hems of the bottom of the product and sleeves, lining, pockets. The allowance is pre-overcast with an overlay seam. The product is folded down from the allowance and a loop-shaped hem stitch is performed. The peculiarity of this line is that the stitches are not visible either from the front or from the wrong side of the product, but are completely hidden inside the hem. Perform 3-4 stitches for every 10 mm stitch length of 0.3 - 0.4 cm.
To secure stitches
Buttonhole stitches are used to secure the ends of stitches after doing manual work such as sewing on buttons, hooks, buttons. And also for bartacking the ends of buttonholes, pockets, etc. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.4 cm.
Buttonhole stitches
Buttonhole stitches are used for overcasting hand loops - straight, curly with an eye.
Rice. Buttonhole stitches
Buttonhole stitch
The buttonhole stitch is used for overcasting buttonholes, and it is also performed as a finishing stitch for processing the edges of napkins, bedspreads, and clothes.
Rice. Buttonhole stitch
The frequency and length of stitches are determined by the tasks of the designer. To make buttonholes, the frequency of stitches is 6-10 for every 10 mm, the width is 0.2-0.3 cm.
Rice. Hand buttonholes made with buttonhole stitches
Special stitches
Bartacks are made with special stitches and accessories are sewn to the product: buttons, hooks, loops, buttons, etc. . Direct bartacks are performed on pockets (for fixing corners), the ends of the loops. Curly bartacks are used to secure the ends of folds and reliefs. With the help of stitches, air thread loops (a kind of straight bartacks) can be made.
Rice. Hand bartack on skirt lining
Buttons with two holes are sewn with 4 - 5 stitches, with four - 3 - 4 stitches in each pair of holes, a match is placed under the button to form a "leg" 0.1 - 0.2 cm high, depending on the thickness of the fabric. The leg is wrapped around with 2 - 3 turns of threads, the end of the thread is fixed and cut off.
Now you know more about hand stitches and stitches and can use them when sewing your own unique clothes. Subscribe to the free news of the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School and sew stylish models with us!
When sewing knitwear, you need to solve two opposite problems: how to sew knitwear so as not to stretch the seams and, at the same time, make the seams elastic.
Why use a knitting needle
First of all, it is necessary to use a special needle for knitwear, which has a rounded tip and does not pierce the fibers of the fabric when stitching, but pushes them apart. Now such needles can be bought at any fabric and sewing supplies store. This is the most important point, since it is strictly forbidden to sew knitwear on a typewriter with an ordinary needle - small holes can turn out, from which fabric loops bloom.
How to make elastic seams
Of course, it is best to sew knitwear on a modern machine, which has the functions of a knitted seam, an overlock or pseudo-overlock program in its arsenal.
For owners of old machines, we suggest adopting a few simple tricks that allow you to get a beautiful and durable elastic seam:
- fine stitch with a long stitch of 1 mm,
- sewing with a small zigzag stitch with a long stitch of 3 mm and a width of 1 mm,
- the usual line, which, when working, needs to be slightly stretched with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.
Ways to strengthen the seams
The second, no less important, task is to make sure that the seams do not stretch. To do this, when grinding seams, you need to strengthen them. This is especially necessary when performing shoulder seams and processing the neck.
There are several ways to do this:
- when sewing, place a strip of paper under the fabric. You can use newsprint cut off from the edge of the newspaper where there is no type so as not to stain the item, toilet paper or paper towels. Printer paper is not suitable - it is very thick and the needle quickly becomes dull on it.
- starch the grinding points. The easiest way to do this is with a cotton swab or brush. Wet the place of the seam with a starch solution, let it dry and then scribble.
- lay a special water-soluble film on the bottom and top of the seam (sold in sewing stores).
- lay a thin braid under the seam from the back. This method is suitable for shoulder seams.
Also, you can not ignore the processing of the bottom of the product and the neck.
Neck and bottom processing
The most accurate and inconspicuous way of filing is manually "goat". But this option is time-consuming and suitable for assiduous people. It is easier to hem the bottom with a double seam. It can be made with a regular stitch, laying the seams parallel to each other at a distance of 5-7 mm, taking into account the recommendations for obtaining an elastic seam, or sewing with a special double needle (also necessarily knitted). Two threads from different spools are threaded into it from above, for this, on most machines, two fasteners are provided, and one thread from below, as usual. As a result, two parallel lines are obtained on the front side, and a zigzag line on the wrong side.
The neck is most often processed by turning, undercut or hemmed in the same way as the bottom of the product, having previously strengthened the seam with a thin interlining, adhesive tape, or laying a reinforcing stitch along the edge. The method of processing the neck is chosen depending on its type and size. For wide necks, it is recommended to sew a thin ribbon along the back from the wrong side. She will not allow things to stretch in one of the most vulnerable places, either when worn or when washed.
Please note that in order to simplify the work with knitted and stretch fabrics, it is recommended to pre-tape them to each other. This prevents uneven seaming when the top fabric slides over the bottom. We wish you to wear stylish and beautiful clothes created by your own hands!
