Master class on knitting Turtles from Owl Solovyova from the Country of Mothers

Finally, it seems that I was able to clearly describe the work on the turtle))
This is my first master class, so I kindly ask everyone - if you find errors, typos or unclear explanations, be sure to point them out to me so that I can correct myself and not embarrass myself.
thank you in advance))

So. we will need threads of three colors, wire, beads for the eyes, a hook for your threads.
in the photo, pay attention to the proportions of the turtles: the yellow-green turtle has a head-legs-tail knitted from a thinner thread (hook No. 0.9) than the shell-belly (hook No. 1.25), peach and red-white-green turtles knitted from thread of the same thickness.

Once we have decided on the threads, we proceed to the most monotonous part:
Head.

1. 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2. 6 arr.
3. (sc, inc) 6 times
4. (2 sc, inc) 6 times
5. (3 sc, inc) 6 times
6. (4 sc, inc) 6 times
7. 36 sc
8. (5 sc, inc) 6 times
9. 42 sc
10. (6 sc, inc) 6 times
11. 48 sc
12. (7 sc, inc) 6 times
12 -14 rows 54 sbn
15. (7 sc, dec) 6 times
16. 48 sc
17. (6 sc, dec) 6 times
18. 42 sc
19. (5 sc, dec) 6 times
20 - 22 rows 36 sc
23. (4 sc, dec) 6 times
24. 30 sc
25. 12 sc, (sc, dec) 6 times (this will be the chin, bottom of the head)
26 - 29 rows 24 sbn
30. (10 sc, dec) 2 times
31 - 36 rows 22 sc
37. (9 sc, dec) 2 times
38 and 39 rows 20 sc

Leg (4 pcs).

1. 5 ch, starting from the second loop from the hook:
2. 3 sbn, 3 sbn to the last one, 2 sbn, 2 sbn to the last one
3. inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc
4. sc, inc, 2 sc, (sc, inc) 3 times, 2 sc, (sc, inc) 2 times
5. 2 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, inc) 3 times, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, inc) 2 times
6 - 18 rows (13 rows) sc in each loop of the previous row
19. 2 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, dec) 3 times, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, dec) 2 times
20 and 21 rows sc in each loop of the previous row
22. (9 sc, dec) 2 times
23. 20 sc

4 sc in amigurumi ring
4 sc
inc, 4 sc
inc, 5 sc
and then increase one by one in a row until 14 loops are collected.

We're done with the boring part, let's get to the sweet stuff.

Shell motif.

6 sc in amigurumi ring
Redhead 2 raises
Attach a white thread to the next loop, knit 3 increases (starting from the loop next to the one in which you attached the thread)
Increase in red in the loop into which you attached the white thread.
We have three additions of whites and three red ones.

Next we knit in a circle, separately with each thread in turn:
Red in white loops (sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (sc, inc) 3 times
Red in white loops sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (2 sc, inc) 3 times
Red in white loops 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (3 sc, inc) 3 times
Red in white loops 3 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (4 sc, inc) 2 times, 4 sc, in the next loop, sc and connecting stitch, break the white thread.
Red in white loops 4 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc) 2 times, 5 sc, increase in red loop (see photo)

In red loops (5 sc, inc) 3 times, finish the work, break the thread.

ready motive.

We knit seven such motifs.

Assembling the shell.

The motifs, folded “face to face”, are connected on three sides with single crochets.

we get the following figure.

Next we tie along the common outer edge.
1. sc in each loop (126 loops)
2. sc, (19 sc, dec) 6 times, and the decrease should be at the junction between the motives, i.e. you grab one loop of one motif and one loop of another motif and decrease (120 loops)
3. (dec, 15 sc, dec, sc) 6 times, and the sc between decreases should fall into the joint between the motifs (in the decrease of the previous row).
4. (hdc, 15 sc, hdc, 3 dc in one loop) 6 times, and 3 dc should fall into the joint between the motifs (in the sc between the decreases of the previous row).
5, 6 and 7 rows 120 sc

Let's start with the tummy.

The basis of the pattern is on the belly - all increases are made with a thread of an additional color, so it looks like rays from the center.
Everything between the rays is at your discretion, you can randomly insert colored loops (as in my case), you can not make rays, but use a spiral, as in the shell motifs, you can generally make the tummy monochromatic.

1. 7 sc in amigurumi ring
2. 7 increments
3. (sc, inc) 7 times
4. (2sc, inc) 7 times
5. (3sc, inc) 7 times
6. (4sc, inc) 7 times
7. (5sc, inc) 7 times
8. (6sc, inc) 7 times
9. (7sc, inc) 7 times
10. (8sc, inc) 7 times
11. (9sc, inc) 7 times
12. (10sc, inc) 7 times
13. (11sc, inc) 7 times
14. (12sc, inc) 7 times
15. (13sc, inc) 7 times
16. (14sc, inc) 7 times
17. (15sc, inc) 7 times
18th and 19th rows sc in each loop of the previous row, do not break the thread.

Next, we tie the limbs to the belly as follows:
11 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg (as in the photo), 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg, 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the head (chin to belly, remember where the decreases are on the neck?), 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg, 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg, 12 sc, 7 sc grabbing the tail.

we get the following figure.

Next row - sc in each loop of the previous row, but capturing the remaining free loops of the limbs and head.

we get the following figure.

2 more rows of sc in each loop of the previous row, fasten and break the thread.

We make a frame. A piece of wire from the tail to the head, and two more connecting the legs in pairs.

We insert the frame. It is not necessary to connect the legs and spine.
After inserting the frame, we stuff the head and legs. not very tight, so that later it would be convenient to make tightening.

We attach the thread to the shell and connect the shell and belly loop to loop. The process is quite tedious, but be patient.

We don’t tie it all the way, we leave a hole somewhere between the last leg and the tail, and stuff the carcass.
first the belly (under the frame), then the shell (above the frame), starting from the far edge, so that the motifs of the shell stand out in relief.
knit the row to the end.
yes, we have an extra loop on the shell (the belly has 119 loops, and the shell has 120), we hide it somehow in the tail area at the end of the row, it won’t be noticeable there.
We don’t break the thread, we knit it further.

2nd row - 2 sc, inc to end of row.
3rd and 4th rows sc in each loop of the previous row
5th row 3 sc, inc we knit with a thread of a different color, and we make increases in the loop of the previous row (see photo)
6th row change the thread to the main one, sc in each loop of the previous row, fasten the thread and break it.

We admire what we have achieved))
and let's start designing the head.

embroider the mouth so that the stitches lie evenly between the rows.

Finally, it seems like I was able to clearly describe the work on the turtle))
This is my first master class, so I kindly ask everyone - if you find errors, typos or unclear explanations, be sure to point them out to me so that I can correct myself and not embarrass myself.
thank you in advance))

So. we will need threads of three colors, wire, beads for the eyes, a hook for your threads.
in the photo, pay attention to the proportions of the turtles: the yellow-green turtle has a head-legs-tail knitted from a thinner thread (hook No. 0.9) than the shell-belly (hook No. 1.25), peach and red-white-green turtles knitted from thread of the same thickness.

Once we have decided on the threads, we proceed to the most monotonous part:
Head.

1. 6 sc in amigurumi ring
2. 6 arr.
3. (sc, inc) 6 times
4. (2 sc, inc) 6 times
5. (3 sc, inc) 6 times
6. (4 sc, inc) 6 times
7. 36 sc
8. (5 sc, inc) 6 times
9. 42 sc
10. (6 sc, inc) 6 times
11. 48 sc
12. (7 sc, inc) 6 times
12 -14 rows 54 sbn
15. (7 sc, dec) 6 times
16. 48 sc
17. (6 sc, dec) 6 times
18. 42 sc
19. (5 sc, dec) 6 times
20 - 22 rows 36 sc
23. (4 sc, dec) 6 times
24. 30 sc
25. 12 sc, (sc, dec) 6 times (this will be the chin, bottom of the head)
26 - 29 rows 24 sbn
30. (10 sc, dec) 2 times
31 - 36 rows 22 sc
37. (9 sc, dec) 2 times
38 and 39 rows 20 sc

Leg (4 pcs).

1. 5 ch, starting from the second loop from the hook:
2. 3 sbn, 3 sbn to the last one, 2 sbn, 2 sbn to the last one
3. inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc
4. sc, inc, 2 sc, (sc, inc) 3 times, 2 sc, (sc, inc) 2 times
5. 2 sbn, inc, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, inc) 3 times, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, inc) 2 times
6 - 18 rows (13 rows) sc in each loop of the previous row
19. 2 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, dec) 3 times, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, dec) 2 times
20 and 21 rows sc in each loop of the previous row
22. (9 sc, dec) 2 times
23. 20 sc

4 sc in amigurumi ring
4 sc
inc, 4 sc
inc, 5 sc
and then increase one by one in a row until 14 loops are collected.

We're done with the boring part, let's get to the sweet stuff.

Shell motif.

6 sc in amigurumi ring
Redhead 2 raises
Attach a white thread to the next loop, knit 3 increases (starting from the loop next to the one in which you attached the thread)
Increase in red in the loop into which you attached the white thread.
We have three additions of whites and three red ones.

Next we knit in a circle, separately with each thread in turn:
Red in white loops (sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (sc, inc) 3 times
Red in white loops sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (2 sc, inc) 3 times
Red in white loops 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (3 sc, inc) 3 times
Red in white loops 3 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) 2 times
White in red loops (4 sc, inc) 2 times, 4 sc, in the next loop, sc and connecting stitch, break the white thread.
Red in white loops 4 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc) 2 times, 5 sc, increase in red loop (see photo)

In red loops (5 sc, inc) 3 times, finish the work, break the thread.

ready motive.

We knit seven such motifs.

Assembling the shell.

The motifs, folded “face to face”, are connected on three sides with single crochets.

we get the following figure.

Next we tie along the common outer edge.
1. sc in each loop (126 loops)
2. sc, (19 sc, dec) 6 times, and the decrease should be at the junction between the motives, i.e. you grab one loop of one motif and one loop of another motif and decrease (120 loops)
3. (dec, 15 sc, dec, sc) 6 times, and the sc between decreases should fall into the joint between the motifs (in the decrease of the previous row).
4. (hdc, 15 sc, hdc, 3 dc in one loop) 6 times, and 3 dc should fall into the joint between the motifs (in the sc between the decreases of the previous row).
5, 6 and 7 rows 120 sc

Let's start with the tummy.

The basis of the pattern on the belly - all increases are made with a thread of an additional color, so it looks like rays from the center.
Everything between the rays is at your discretion, you can randomly insert colored loops (as in my case), you can not make rays, but use a spiral, as in the shell motifs, you can generally make the tummy monochromatic.

1. 7 sc in amigurumi ring
2. 7 increments
3. (sc, inc) 7 times
4. (2sc, inc) 7 times
5. (3sc, inc) 7 times
6. (4sc, inc) 7 times
7. (5sc, inc) 7 times
8. (6sc, inc) 7 times
9. (7sc, inc) 7 times
10. (8sc, inc) 7 times
11. (9sc, inc) 7 times
12. (10sc, inc) 7 times
13. (11sc, inc) 7 times
14. (12sc, inc) 7 times
15. (13sc, inc) 7 times
16. (14sc, inc) 7 times
17. (15sc, inc) 7 times
18th and 19th rows sc in each loop of the previous row, do not break the thread.

Next, we tie the limbs to the belly as follows:
11 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg (as in the photo), 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg, 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the head (chin to belly, remember where the decreases are on the neck?), 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg, 10 sc, 10 sc grabbing the leg, 12 sc, 7 sc grabbing the tail.

we get the following figure.

The next row is sc in each loop of the previous row, but capturing the remaining free loops of the limbs and head.

we get the following figure.

2 more rows of sc in each loop of the previous row, fasten and break the thread.

We make a frame. A piece of wire from the tail to the head, and two more connecting the legs in pairs.

We insert the frame. It is not necessary to connect the legs and spine.
After inserting the frame, we stuff the head and legs. not very tight, so that later it would be convenient to make tightening.

We attach the thread to the shell and connect the shell and belly loop to loop. The process is quite tedious, but be patient.

We don’t tie it all the way, we leave a hole somewhere between the last leg and the tail, and stuff the carcass.
first the belly (under the frame), then the shell (above the frame), starting from the far edge, so that the motifs of the shell stand out in relief.
knit the row to the end.
yes, we have an extra loop on the shell (the belly has 119 loops, and the shell has 120), we hide it somehow in the tail area at the end of the row, it won’t be noticeable there.
We don’t break the thread, we knit it further.

2nd row – 2 sc, inc to end of row.
3rd and 4th rows sc in each loop of the previous row
5th row 3 sc, inc we knit with a thread of a different color, and we make increases in the loop of the previous row (see photo)
6th row change the thread to the main one, sc in each loop of the previous row, fasten the thread and break it.

We admire what we have achieved))
and let's start designing the head.

embroider the mouth so that the stitches lie evenly between the rows.

Calculations for crocheting a round yoke

When making any product with any yoke shape, we need to build a pattern in full (or scaled) size, then apply the lines of our yoke to the pattern.
Then we need to take some measurements on the knitted sample with the selected pattern and on the existing pattern.
1. You need to know the volume of the yoke on top - in cm and in the number of columns - pink line.
2. Know the volume of the yoke by its lower, wide edge - in cm and in the number of columns - green line.
3. Know the length of the yoke of the selected model in cm and in the repeats of the knitted pattern - the brown line.
Depends on:
a) by how many columns should each repeat of the yoke pattern be increased (expanded), in which rows of the repeat is it most convenient to make the necessary increases;
b) the yoke can be of any length from top to bottom, and depending on what pattern it is built on, it depends:
- with a narrow (short) yoke, will we finish all the details with raglan decreases towards the armholes;
- will we issue increases for the armholes themselves;
- are shortened rows needed at the transition to the main fabric, etc.
Example 1. Round yoke with front closure, sleeveless (drop shoulder)
Let's look at a specific example, pattern and specific model.
Let's make a model with a dropped shoulder formed by the length of a round yoke, based on a standard pattern with a set-in sleeve for 48 size. Select a pattern and knit a sample. We make all calculations based on the pattern and knitted sample:

For the 10x10 sample we get 25.2 stitches and 12.2 rows. In one repeat - 6 stitches and 4 rows. Around the neck circumference of 50 cm, cast on 126 vp. +1, i.e., we dial 21 rapport. From calculations of the expansion of yokes, we know that the initial number of loops increases no more than 2.8 to three times, and the measurement of cm with tape around the body and lowered arms should be within 130 plus or minus 10 loops, we calculate to which we need to reach the number of columns in the rapport by expanding the yoke.
- measuring cm with tape according to the pattern gives 136-137cm, which according to the sample gives us (136x127p): 50cm = 345.4p. We typed 21 repeats, which means we must reduce the resulting calculated number of loops to a multiple of 21:
345.4:21 = 16.5 loops = 17 loops in one repeat along the bottom of the yoke.
Let's take a closer look at our sample. With a repeat height of 4 rows and a yoke length of 19.5 cm, we need to knit 23 rows, adding evenly to the lines of the pattern.

So, for everyone who is interested in toys based on the “African flower” motif, I suggest knitting a small sea turtle. This is a hybrid toy - African flower motifs in a free version)))

List of materials:

• 1. Any remnants of threads of the same thickness of two colors in a green-brown color scheme (or any other color at your discretion))) Personally, I use Karachay acrylic, divided into two threads...

I’ll explain why... The yarn is cheap, has many different colors, the colors are bright and saturated... it looks very good when crocheting, it doesn’t fade... these were the advantages))) there is only one minus - it’s only suitable for knitting toys... or )))

• A hook suitable for your threads and your knitting density (a hook that is convenient for you)
• Filler for stuffing (sintepon)
• Thin paralon (I think it’s quite possible to do without it - I just want to try to use this material in knitted toys)
• Eyes

First of all, let's look at the structure of the turtle... and decide what we need to connect)

1. Fins (front ones are larger, rear ones are smaller)
2. Shell
3. Head
4. small tail (optional... I forgot about the tail again)))
That's basically the whole turtle))) etc. Since the toy is crocheted from African flower motifs, you still need to decide on the type of polygons for all the details.

For the flippers, I propose to knit pentagons, as I already said, of different sizes... For the front flippers we will make larger pentagons, for the rear ones, respectively, smaller ones...
How will we achieve this?
Yes, it’s very simple... let’s “play” at the height of double crochets and half double crochets...
Shall we start?

On social networks, on numerous websites, when asking “world talents,” we are often offered various, sometimes even unimaginable, answers to the query in the search results. The talents of the video world reveal different aspects of people's unique creativity. It is impossible to appreciate talent without hearing the singer’s voice or seeing the bolero dance. But not only singers, actors and other artists can bear the proud name of talent.

In our opinion, talent is the ability to create a miracle with your own hands and present it to the world. After all, things that it has now become fashionable to call “hand made” not only bring benefits, but also delight people’s hearts and warm their souls.

So, our talented needlewomen, let's start creating a toy with our own hands. Today we will crochet turtle.

First you need to knit two “African flowers”. It’s quite simple, and on our website there is a detailed tutorial on how to knit this motif:

Horse crocheted from motifs. Master Class.

Legend:

Column (st.) b. n. - single crochet.

V.p. - air loop.

Knit one "flower" using different colored yarn (your choice) and another using the same color yarn. In the master class, light pink yarn is used. The motif from this yarn is the lower part of a turtle's shell. Tie it with two rows of posts b. n.

Knitting a turtle head.

We will knit in the round without making a ch. for lifting at the beginning of each row. This is how most people fit in crochet toys.

1st row: Close 6 loops into an amigurumi ring.

2nd row: make an increase in each loop of the previous row - a total of 6 increases (12 loops in a row).

3rd row: 12 tbsp. b. n. (12).

4th row:(st. b.n., increase) - repeat 6 times, i.e. to the end of the row (18).

5 row:(2 st. b.n., increase) - repeat 6 times, i.e. to the end of the row (24).

Rows 6-8: 24 Art. b. n. (24).

9th row:(2 tbsp, decrease) - until the end of the row - 6 times (18).

10-11 rows: 18th century b. n. (18).

Row 12:(st. b.n., decrease) - 6 times (12).

We attach the eyes and start filling the head.

Rows 13-16: 12 tbsp. b. n.

We stuff the head, but not very tightly. We finish knitting the head.

Knitting the front legs of a turtle (2 parts).

1st row: 6 loops in an amigurumi ring.

2nd row:

3rd row:

4-6 rows: 18th century b. n. (18).

7th row: 4 decreases, 10 tbsp. b. n. (14).

8th row: 14th century b. n. (14).

9th row: 2 tbsp. b. n., 2 decreases, 2 tbsp. b. n. (12).

Rows 10-12: 12 tbsp. b. n. (12).

We stuff the foot, match the edges and knit them together.

Knitting the back legs of a turtle (2 parts).

1st row: 6 loops in an amigurumi ring.

2nd row: increase in each loop - 6 increases in total (12).

3rd row:(senior b.n., increase) - 6 times (18).

4th row: 18th century b. n. (18).

5 row:(decrease, 7 st. b.n.) - 2 times (16).

6th row:(decrease, 6 st. b.n.) - 2 times (14).

7-8 rows: 14th century b. n. (14).

We stuff the connected part.

9th row:(decrease, 5 st. b.n.) - 2 times (12).

10th row:(decrease, 4 st. b.n.) - 2 times (10).

We stuff the foot, match the edges and knit them together. We finish knitting.

Using a needle and pink thread, sew the legs to the pink “African flower”. The photo shows the placement of the paws and head.

Knitting a turtle body (2 parts).

1st row: 6 loops in an amigurumi ring.

2nd row: increase in each loop - 6 increases in total (12).

3rd row:(senior b.n., increase) - 6 times (18).

4th row:(2 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (24).

5 row:(3 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (30).

6th row:(4 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (36).

7th row:(5 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (42).

8th row:(6 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (48).

9th row:(7 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (54).

10th row:(8 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (60).

11th row:(9 st. b.n., increase) - 6 times (66).

We combine the two parts and crochet them together. Don't forget to stuff the body before closing the hole!

Place the body on top of the bottom of the shell (see photo) and, without tearing the thread, tie the pieces together in a circle. Use columns b. n.

Hook the loops of the lower part of the shell (pink) and the upper part of the body (blue). Where the paws are located, we knit stitches b. n., capturing only the blue loops.

We knit in the round, joining the bottom to the top.

When finished knitting, do not rush to cut the yarn. In the circle of the upper part (blue), knit (2 ch, dc) into each loop of the previous row. Now we finish knitting.

Now let's move on to the top of the shell.

Take the multi-colored “flower” that we knitted earlier. Turn it over. Knit stitches b. n. around the bottom. Knit 4 rows with stitches b. n.. In the last 5th row, increase every 6 stitches.

Now let's connect the upper part of the shell and the turtle itself. Place the shell on top of the turtle's body. We knit with columns b. n. round. The photo shows which loops need to be crocheted.

Well, at the end we’ll decorate the shell a little. 5 double crochets in the second loop from the hook, skip 1 loop, a connecting stitch in the next one, skip 1 loop, again 5 double crochets, etc. to the end of the row.

Turtle ready!

This master class was translated specifically for the website, so please do not copy the entire material. And in case of partial copying, be sure to post a link to the source.
Photo from the site: www.inart.no