Traditional Russian shirt. Cutting an ancient Russian men's shirt from factory fabric

Our ancestors were wise people and everything simple was in their honor, and among them Russian folk shirt, which is sewn using simple techniques and a simple cut.

Details of the cut of the Russian shirt are given with seam allowances of 1 cm. Ethnographic sample.

For the shirt, I bought 4.5 meters of chintz, 80 cm wide. The length of the shirt is determined by height. For height 164 I took 110 cm. Fold the chintz in half lengthwise. Attach a right angle to the fold and mark the bottom of the shirt. Measure 110 cm from the bottom, apply a ruler at a right angle to the cut, mark and cut. Also measure another similar piece. Cut off the edges. The two-piece shirt frame is ready.

Sleeves. The sleeve width from the fold is 36 cm, the length is 50 cm. Cut out two parts.

Cutting details. Gusset - square 12 by 12 cm, two parts. For convenient work, you need to mark the middle of the front and back and the middle of the sleeves; I make cuts of 3-5 mm.

Product assembly. Place a dot with a pencil on the corner of the sleeve and the upper corner of the frame, at a distance of 1 cm from the cuts. Combine the dots and pin them together with a pin. Connect the vertical line of the sleeve armhole with the upper cut of the frame.

Start sewing from the cuts along the sleeve, smoothly bringing the seam to a distance of 1 cm from the cut. Having reached the corner point, leave the needle in the fabric, make a diagonal cut not reaching the needle 1-2 mm, unfold the vertical part of the sleeve armhole and stitch the parts without chopping, not reaching the end 1 cm.

Place the gusset on the bottom of the sleeve and pin it to the frame. Make a line, moving from the sleeve and ending 1 cm short of the end.

Unfold the sleeve, attach the gusset to the bottom of the sleeve and stitch, starting 1 cm from the cut and again not reaching 1 cm, the distance between the pins is indicated in the photo.

The next step is to attach the gusset to the other part of the sleeve, pin and sew (from pin to pin), starting again and not reaching the end of 1 cm.

Attach the gusset to the back frame and sew again within 1 cm. The gusset detail has free allowances.

Now pin the sleeve seams and the side seams of the frame and sew from the gusset to the bottom of the sleeve and shirt. Overcast the gusset seams and then the side and sleeve seams.

Place two lines along the “collar”, the first at a distance of 5 mm from the cut, the second at the width of the presser foot. There is no difference between the front or the back, they cut it the same way.

Pull the assembly together. To better distribute the gathering, I pinned the middle of the back, front and top of the sleeves on the mannequin. If you don’t have a mannequin, you can put it on any passing person wearing a T-shirt (mother, daughter) and pin the “collar” directly to the T-shirt. The depth of the neckline is adjustable by assembly. At the back you need to make the neckline higher, so pull the stitching tighter.

Cut strips diagonally 6 cm wide and stretch under the iron. Place the top edge of the shirt on the front side of the shirt to the first line and pin it, pulling it slightly, it’s more convenient to do this on a mannequin.

Finish with an overlap.

Make a line at a distance of 5 mm from the cut of the bias tape. Cut off the “fringe” so that there is a margin of 3-4 mm left from the sewing line of the binding. Secure the fold of the binding with a pin.

Fold the edge and baste the binding from the wrong side so that it overlaps the stitching line.

On the front side, the running stitch is placed under the bias tape. Make sure that the width of the binding remains the same everywhere, 4-5 mm.

Stitch from the right side, stitching under the bias tape. After completion, check the quality from the inside out; sometimes the edge of the bias tape does not fit the stitching. Remove the stitch used for assembly.

Hem the bottom, bend it 1 cm and again 1 cm. Do the same for the sleeve. At a distance of 3 cm from the bottom of the sleeve, give 2 lines with a rubber thread.

Russian folk shirt ready. All that remains is to sew a sundress or a poneva, twist or weave a belt and you can dance.

Russian shirts for your collection, dear needlewomen!

Pattern and sewing of men's and women's traditional Slavic shirts.

The best gift is a Russian shirt, which is embroidered with your own hands!

Men's traditional shirts were usually tunic-like. They were sewn from a piece of fabric folded in half - this immediately formed the back and front. A round hole was made in the middle for the head and a small cut in the middle of the front. Long sleeves tapering towards the wrist were sewn to the upper part of the cloth folded in half. Two pieces of canvas-barrel were sewn into the waist of the shirt from the sides - they could be straight or oblique.

Between the sleeves and barrels under the armpits, rhombic or square pieces of fabric were inserted - gussets, which were sometimes made of a different fabric and a different color. The gussets provided freedom of movement. And it was also easy to replace them with new ones in case of wear. On the wrong side of a man's shirt, a backing was sewn in the upper part. - a second layer of fabric, which protected against sweating and extended the period of wearing the shirt.

Everyday shirts were not ornamented; holiday shirts had embroidery along the hem, bottom of the sleeves, and collar. A man's shirt was worn for graduation and was always belted.

Materials we will need:

Linen fabric 2 m with a width of 150 cm.
Floss threads, if embroidery is provided, 3-4 skeins
Sewing threads to match the fabric
Button
Manufacturing technology:

Cut out the details taking into account the shared thread:
Central panel - 1 piece with weft fold

side wedges - 2 parts,

gussets - 2 parts,

sleeves - 2 parts (before cutting it is better to take measurements again: from the edge of the shoulder and down to the beginning of the thumb.)

Finish the cut at the neckline with tape.
Finish the neck of the shirt with trim or decorate it with a small stand-up collar.
Sew the sleeve parts to the shirt, aligning the middle of the sides of the central panel of the shirt and the middle of the upper sections of the sleeves.
On the details of the side wedges in the upper part in the center, make a cut 10 cm long (the size of the gusset), then sew the side wedges to the back and front of the shirt, connect the upper sections of the side wedges to the details of the sleeves.
Sew in the gussets (two sides of the gusset are connected to the slits in the side gussets, the other two to the sleeve cuts).
Sew the seams of the sleeves, finish the bottom of the sleeves with a closed hem seam.
Finish the bottom of the shirt with a closed hem seam.
At the neckline, make a fastener made of a thread loop and a button.
Perform WTO (wet heat treatment) of seams at each stage.

I hope the material will be useful to you.

The cut of women's shirts from the northern and southern provinces of Russia and their design features:

Let us consider the designs of shirts based on specific ethnographic samples. For the northern provinces, it is typical to wear shirts with sundresses or skirts; the cut of the shirts themselves is without skirts, with straight skirts or with a yoke; their length could be from very short (the so-called “sleeved” shirt, “collar”) to long ( “sleeves” with a waist).

In the southern provinces, shirts were worn, as a rule, with ponevoy - swinging belt clothing, which determined the length of the shirts (no higher than the hip line). According to the method of cutting, the southern Great Russians had two types of shirts: with straight and oblique skirts (the latter is especially characteristic of them).

Functional and decorative significance of the cutting elements of shirts
The shape of the Russian shirt reflects the needs of the environment of its wearers and is the result of long-term social selection. The cut of the shirt is surprisingly wise and rational. He is characterized by straightforwardness; Each main detail with straight cut lines, as well as stripes, wedges, and sleeve gussets, not only served constructive and aesthetic functions, but also contributed to saving fabric. Despite its apparent simplicity, the geometric cut made it possible to create complex voluminous shapes, providing maximum comfort to wear and emphasizing the beauty, stateliness and corpulence of the wearer.

Mill. The structural division of the shirt mainly depended on the width of the canvas. The width of the canvas and the economy of the cut determined the line of stitching of the sleeves and the length of the shoulder sections. When using wider fabric, the shoulder section lengthened quite significantly, and the sleeve stitching line sometimes took on a horizontal position. When using narrow fabric, the shoulder section lengthened slightly, and the armhole line took on a vertical position and a rectangular shape.

Sometimes the top of the shirt and the waistcoat were made as two independent items, which was dictated by considerations of economy: each woman had several “tops,” which required little fabric, and the waistband was sewn to the one they were going to wear.

Polik. The functionality of folk clothing is primarily due to the polik. The constructive function of the polyc plays an important role in clothing: it expands the upper shoulder part of the shirt, causing its collar to gather into small gathers; helps balance the straight cut of a shirt for any figure, regardless of size; the size of the pad helps to increase or decrease the volume of the shirt; The poly also creates direction for the sleeve, ensures its rotation and dynamism.

The aesthetic side of the floor is manifested in determining the location of its position and the amount of finishing associated with it. In shirts with straight stripes, the characteristic finishing was the stripe itself, made of calico, printed calico, satin, or patterned weaving inserts. The skirts along the seams were decorated with embroidery, lace, braid, etc. In shirts with slanted skirts, the junction of the skirt with the waist was decorated, visually separating the skirt from the sleeve, outlining the body of the figure. Embroidery and colored inserts were located low on the sleeves, almost at the elbow line.

Sleeve. The shape of the sleeves could be different: they were made straight or tapering towards the wrist, puffy at the shoulders or at the wrist, the length varied from ¾ to excessive, almost to the floor. The variety of shapes was provided by many different cutting methods. Often the sleeve was a solid rectangular piece. There were cut sleeves - made from one cut cloth or from cloth and one or two wedges cut from it. The so-called “coolie” sleeves consisted of two straight fabrics of different lengths, the corners of the larger of which were filled with a “bag”. There were other varieties.

The options for designing the bottom of the sleeves are also varied: gathering under a narrow trim, cuffs and frills of different widths, finishing with embroidery, lace, braid, “teeth”.

The shape of the sleeves, including the design of the hem, significantly influenced the silhouette of the suit as a whole, and the trim harmoniously fit into the overall concept of the product, giving it a strict or formal look.

Gusset. The armpit insert was needed to strengthen the junction of the sleeve with the side panel of the shirt and allow the hand to move freely when performing traditional peasant work. Sometimes the gusset could be one-piece with a sleeve wedge. Often the gusset was cut from a fabric of a different color than the main one, thereby creating an additional color accent in the overall composition.

Neck. A woman's shirt, unlike a man's, necessarily had gathers at the collar. The gathered collar created a soft movement of the fabric on the waist, freely draping the female figure. The neck line was emphasized by narrow trim. The posts and strips that form the front section were usually richly decorated and served as the active center of the composition, emphasizing the symmetry of the product. In shirtless shirts, the wide bob-shaped neckline created by the gathered edges of the sleeves and the front and back panels eliminated the need to make an incision.

Side inserts and wedges. They added additional volume to the product, oblique wedges, and also ensured downward expansion.

Yoke. A cut-off part - a yoke, or cape, helped to reduce the volume at the neck of the shirt, and also made it possible to lay out the front and back panels and sleeves at the junction with it in small folds or curly gathers.
Understanding the constructive and decorative role of each element of a suit’s cut makes it possible to rethink their meaning in the context of modern fashion, to preserve or exaggerate it, creating clothing models in which the spirit of modernity and unique national flavor are organically intertwined.

Dedkova N.N.

Another option:

Shirt material: linen, woolen cloth (preferably the first). Any color (not necessarily white), except for frankly synthetic or bright ones. A “tinted” color is best. You need 3 meters of material maximum. It is better to sew by hand using linen thread.

I. Cut!

Measure how long your shirt will be, preferably it reaches mid-thigh:
1. length - (measurement from shoulder to desired length)
2. width - (clothing size at shoulders + 10 cm)
3. Fold the fabric in half, measure the desired length and cut!
4. Determine the center on the fold of the fabric, and on the front side make a vertical cut downwards, about 10 cm long, so that the head can fit through (this is the future neckline)
5. cut the sleeve: 2 pcs.
6. top - (biceps girth + 5 cm)
7. bottom - (wrist) - (wrist circumference 5 cm)
8. gusset (sewn into the sleeve under the armpits) 2 pcs. (15 cm by 15 cm)
9. wedges 2 pcs.

For a men's shirt 50 cm by 35 cm. For a women's shirt 80 or 90 cm by 50 cm.

II. Let's sew!

1. sew the sleeves
2. sew gussets (armpits) into the sleeve
3. sew the sleeves to the shirt
4. sew the shirt on the sides, up to the wedges!!!
5. sew in wedges (Sew in wedges from the waist down! If you sew in wedges from the hem to the waistband, the wedges may end up at different heights relative to each other).
6. Cut out a semicircle at the neckline so that it lies flat on the neck. The cut out flap must be dragged inside the future garment: the movement “inward” meant preservation, accumulation of vitality, “outward” - expense, loss. They tried in every possible way to avoid this latter, so as not to bring trouble to the person.
7. hem all edges

The shirt is ready! Now embroider it!

A women's shirt is sewn according to the same principle, only it is longer to the ground and the wedges are longer.

MEN'S AND WOMEN'S SHIRTS
Drawing (pattern). Layout for 2 shirts

The drawings (patterns) of women's and men's shirts posted here represent a stylization of folk costume, although the main details and principles of cutting folk clothing are preserved.
Patterns are given for two sizes (in parentheses - the value for the smaller size).
The dimensions are very approximate. If you are sewing a shirt for the first time, then you must first make a model from simple unnecessary fabric and fit the product to your figure.
The large size is for an adult of average build, the smaller size is for a teenager.

Sequence of assembling a women's shirt
1. Stitch embroidery on the sleeves and apron
2. Sew the stripes to the sleeves, iron the seams
3. Adjust the braid
4. Sew drawstrings for elastic bands to the underside of the sleeves
5. Sew the lower parts of the sleeves with the front and back, press the seams
6. Connect the sleeves to the front and back, iron the seams
7. Topstitch the side seams
8. Sew the apron with the skirt panel, iron the seams
9. Gather the neckline and finish it with tartan bias tape.
10. Gather the skirt and stitch it to the top of the shirt.
11. Attach a drawstring for the elastic
12. Process the bottom.
13. Insert elastic bands into sleeves and waistband
The men's shirt is assembled in the same way as the upper part of the women's shirt.

How to sew a folk shirt, the same as our ancestors wore in the villages? This question has increasingly become of interest to Internet users. And this is not surprising. After all, the revival of traditions in folk costume is an important component for preserving the heritage of ancestors and preserving the unique culture of any nation.

The Samoshveyk website is particularly passionate about the revival of not only folk traditions, but also cutting and sewing in a folk style. Let us at least remember. And today the author Natalya shares her personal experience in cutting and sewing folk shirts in the Russian style. The following is a first-person narration.

I don’t have any special skills in sewing, I haven’t completed cutting and sewing courses, but sewing a Russian shirt in folk style for my husband was not difficult at all.

You only need 4 measurements: the girth at the widest point (in my case it was the girth of my husband’s abdomen), shirt length, sleeve length, neck width. Depending on the build of the “model”, a different amount of fabric will be required. My man is large, so I bought 2.5 meters of poplin (just in case with a reserve). Usually take 2 lengths. You will also need braid: wide - about 5 meters and narrow - 2 meters.

Russian shirt pattern

Fold the fabric, measure the length and cut it out. Mark the middle on the fold and cut out the neckline. It may be a little narrow, because there will be another cut (as in the picture). Using the same principle, we cut out the sleeves, narrowing them to the cuff.

How to sew a Russian shirt

We sweep the sections and measure. It is not necessary to make a gusset, but sometimes the shirt pulls unsightly under the armpits, in this case, in order to give an aesthetic appearance, it is better to tinker a little. The gusset is a rhombus, the length of the side depends on the length of the product, I did 10 cm. If everything went well during the fitting, we sew the seams together, leaving slits on the sides of about 5-7 cm. I trimmed the neckline with bias tape, but you can simply stitch it with a zigzag.

I made a stand-up collar in a Russian shirt for my husband. As it turned out, there is no need to be afraid of this phrase at all; it turned out that it is not at all difficult. We measure the length of the neckline + 1.5 cm for the seams in a circle. On the fabric we draw a rectangle of the obtained length, slightly raising (rounding) the ends, the width of the rectangle is 2 widths of wide braid + 1.5-2 cm for seams. It is not necessary to seal the collar, since the braid is quite dense and will hold its shape on its own. We sew the collar together and sew it to the neck. I made 2 seams: the main one - I sewed the collar, the second - I folded the resulting edge and sewed it to the main fabric. Behold, all that remains is to decorate the shirt.

We sew a wide braid onto the collar and on the sides of the neckline, we also use it to decorate the cuffs, a narrow braid is used to decorate the hem and lower edge of the shirt. I also made the belt from wide braid, I simply sewed the fabric to the back side and decorated it with fringe. I then took my shirt to the studio to have the lacing done (you need a special device), but you can just sew on a button to match the braid.

I hope my experience will help you. My husband really liked my work.

This article will help many people who are taking their first steps in sewing Russian folk clothing and, in particular, Russian folk women's shirts with their own hands.

To sew a shirt, you will need about two linear meters of linen fabric, preferably clean and without impurities. The width of the canvas can be either 1.4 meters or 1.5 and 1.6 meters - whatever you find.
Sewing machine with a set of threads, good scissors, chalk or pencil, pins.

The fabric looks something like this:

In fact, the cut of the shirt is very simple. Depending on the type (the types were discussed in previous articles), the shirt consists of 5 - 6 main elements. These include sleeves, a hem, two gussets, bias tape, and sometimes a neckline overlay.

First you need to prepare the fabric, steam it or iron it so that there are no wrinkles and it is convenient to work with.

Depending on the shirt size 44-46-48-50-52, it is necessary to cut, respectively, from 44 to 52 centimeters of fabric from the edge. This will be a blank for the sleeves (top of the shirt).

If you are sewing for yourself, or have the opportunity to take measurements, then simply measure the distance from the shoulder to the center of the chest and multiply by two. Don't forget to leave 2 centimeters for the seams.
Or take measurements from the center of the chest to the desired length and add 4 centimeters from the hem to the hem.

It is necessary to process the edges of the fabric with an overlock or fine zigzag.

The main elements of the shirt are ready.

It is necessary to cut two gussets from the remaining fabric (approximately 8 by 8 centimeters, if the size is larger than size 48 or large breasts, then 10 by 10 centimeters or 12 by 12 centimeters). It is also necessary to process the edges of the fabric.

Fold the top of the shirt (sleeve) first across, then along, aligning the edges. Next, you need to draw a neckline on the fold - approximately 10 centimeters wide and 4-6 centimeters at the bottom, depending on the size of the neckline that is needed.

A little higher, you need to draw another line in parallel (the neckline at the back) and cut it out first.

Important! A cut piece of fabric cannot simply be thrown away. This piece must be pulled inside the shirt. Yes, this is simply manipulating a piece of cut fabric - pulling out the cut piece from below. But this is how we observe the traditions of our ancestors, and our ancestors believed that this is how the law of care is observed to preserve the strength of the future owner.

This is the result.

Cut out the bias tape. To do this, measure the length of the neck with a meter (approximately 50-60 centimeters), then draw a line on the remaining fabric (corresponding to the length of the neck) at an angle of 45 degrees and a width of 4-5 centimeters and cut it out. There is no need to process the edges.

If you want to make a slit in the neckline for convenience, then cut out a piece of fabric 10 by 8 centimeters wide, and its edges are processed. The piece is pinned to the front of the neck, a straight line is drawn with a pencil or chalk, and this line is hemmed around with an indentation of 1 centimeter on three sides.

We turn the sewn fabric inside out, pin it with pins and stitch it, trying to get it “in line” and breaking off the pins as we go.

Stitch from the front side, once! If you don’t get it “on track”, then we sew it carefully along the fabric, as in the photo.

The bias tape should be, preferably in a contrasting color, and made with your own hands.

But for those who don’t want to bother, you don’t have to make it yourself. You can buy it ready-made in the store.

You can decorate the top of the shirt as you wish! According to tradition, it is preferable to use hand embroidery, with special protective patterns and ornaments.

If you don’t want to follow traditions, you can decorate it with machine embroidery, jacquard braid or lace!

With braid - first we pin it, and then we sew it evenly!

At the same time, you can sew the braid onto the sleeves, if you wish...

The results of applying “decorations” in different versions can be as follows:

Sew on the bias tape. To do this, we put it on the front side of the shirt, leaving 2 centimeters. We sew it tightly, so that it holds the shape of the collar.

After sewing, we fold it inward twice to hide the raw edge. We pin and sew again from the front side, trying to get into the channel or along the edge of the fabric.

We process the bottom, that is, the hem of the shirt. You can decorate it right away if you wish.

Fold along the width and sew on the side. Almost reaching the top, we apply a gusset to the inside, pin it (fix it) and sew first one side, then the other.

We remind you that the hem is a single piece of fabric, 1.5 meters wide. It is interrupted and sewn on one side. But, you can sew a hem from two halves, if you do not have a single piece of fabric, but have two, albeit small, but of a suitable size. If tradition is not followed, it is not important. We also remind you that, according to tradition, protective embroidery is necessarily applied to the seams and edges of clothing.

On the other side, we make a cut down to the length of the gusset, about 10 centimeters. We also pin the gusset and sew it first on one edge, then on the other.

Traditionally, red gussets are considered protective.

In ancient times, craftswomen sewed everything by hand. Now we have faithful assistants - sewing machines.
They simplify the work, make it easy and fast.

We set the stitch width to 4 mm on the machine and go through the top edge of the dress without going over the gussets, separately in front and behind. You can use two lines: one under the other - for a more convenient tie.

We begin to tighten. You need to pull both strings at the same time. We tighten it and periodically apply it to ourselves, so that the gussets are clearly under the arms, the back is tightened a little more tightly.

After tightening, distribute the folds evenly and mark the middle of the back and front with pins, and also mark the middle on the top of the shirt.

An alternative to marking is the same irreplaceable pins.

Let's sew! Now all that remains is to process the sleeves and remove the threads.

Congratulations! Your shirt is ready!

Here are the results of your work:

For such detailed material and the photographs provided, we thank the =Revival of Native Traditions=Voronezh= group on the VKONTAKTE social network and the craftswoman Natalya Kolesnikova!

If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments to this article, or to the administration of the “Russian Ornaments and Patterns” group on the VKONTAKTE social network.

for a man it consisted of a belted shirt, worn untucked, and ports (pants). Russian shirts were of absolutely the same cut for both the nobility and the peasants. We will tell you what the main element of the Russian wardrobe was in this material.

It was the basis of the wardrobe for both men and women, regardless of wealth, social status, marital status and region of the Russian Empire. The baby's first shirt appeared immediately after birth: the boy's first diaper was made from his father's shirt, from his mother's shirt.

They also tried to make the first children's shirts from their parents' shirts. The Slavs believed that in this way the energy of their ancestors would be transferred to the children and protect them. Until a certain age, the clothes of boys and girls looked the same and consisted of a long blouse. On their third birthday, children received their first shirt made from new fabric.

M. Gromyko. The world of the Russian village

In essence, the blouse consisted of two connected panels - on the chest and on the back, which were connected at the shoulders by two textile quadrangles. This universal cut was used for both expensive maid shirts and everyday peasant shirts. The only difference was in the fabric from which the products were made.

In traditional ones, square gussets were sewn into the armpits so that the finished product would not restrict movement. In addition, triangular wedges were sewn into the sides. The length of the sleeve varied depending on the purpose of the finished product.

Russian kosovorotka, front and back views

There was either no collar at all, or it was standing up - round or quadrangular. To keep it in shape, a birch bark or leather base was sewn under the fabric. The incision on the chest was either in the center or on the side (kosovorotka). It was fastened with a button or tied with ribbons.

Some stories believe that shirts with oblique fastenings began to be worn due to the fact that a cross on a string or chain fell out into a straight cut.

The Russian peasant wore a shirt as outer clothing, rich people and representatives of the upper classes - as underwear. Princes and boyars at home wore a special silk shirt - a maid's shirt.

Russian shirts were usually homespun, so they were in natural colors of cotton, linen, etc. With the spread of textile manufactories and factories, as well as the increasing availability of dyes, Russians began to wear shirts of different colors - white, blue, red...

The main decoration of the shirt is the stripes that go along the collar, the lower edge of the product, and the ends of the sleeves. These places were not decorated by chance. The tradition of decorating clothes with embroidery in these places dates back to pre-Christian Slavic beliefs. Our ancestors believed that through holes in clothes, evil spirits could penetrate a person and harm him. In addition, through the main hole - the neck - the soul flies away when a person dies.

The Slavs believed that amulets, embroidered in the form of ornaments on clothes, would protect the owner from the evil eye, illness, accident and prevent the soul from flying away. Each element of embroidery had a deep symbolic meaning. And although the original meaning of jewelry is now lost, some of these elements are still used today.

Workshop Angel creates a variety of Russian folk styles. Shirts made of gabardine, crepe satin and cotton will last for several decades if they are carefully looked after. The catalog presents products with a pattern printed on the fabric, as well as with decorative inserts made of shawl fabric with a Pavlovo Posad pattern, brocade, bright crepe satin, many shirts are decorated with colored braid and embroidery.