Traditional clothing of the Nenets. Types of clothing of northern peoples and traditional features Nenets Malitsa

Dressed in the Nenets national costume, Sheikh Saud bin Saqr al-Qasimi, head of the emirate of Ras al-Khaimah and member of the Supreme Union Council of the United Arab Emirates at the XX Yamal Governor's Cup competition in Nadym, 2015

According to fashion experts, there are already entire regions of Russia where folk costume has ceased to be a museum exhibit and is trying to return to everyday life.

In general, the making of clothes among the Nenets, as a rule, is accompanied by a monologue of internal speech, with which a woman expresses her attitude towards the person for whom it is intended. This speech can later become a song performed for everyone or even a folk song.

Nenets shoes consist of fur Libtov , which were sewn from autumn deer skin, and pims.

Pima (beer) - high fur boots made of kamus, with soles made of “brushes” (skin between the large and small hoofs of a deer), less often made of skin taken from a deer’s forehead. Insoles made of dry grass were placed inside the pims.

Pima

Pimas were worn with fur stocking , known under the names “siskins”, “tyazhi”, “liptas” (picture above, where the owl is in the Murmansk Museum of Local Lore)

Men's work shoes - tobaks and tobars . They were also made from kamus, with the fur facing out, but without any decoration.

Nenets hats are very diverse. Vit just a few examples

Left: Kapor - vadak - with a lush edge of arctic fox tails or white deer fur.

Right: Kapor - Nenets women's hat (neva "se"). From the collections of the Nenets Museum of Local Lore

Nenets hat Pyartav with sava"ne at the mini-exhibition "It's all in the hat"

Left: Nenets Nyanduy hat from the collections of the Nenets Museum of Local Lore

Right: Nenets women's hat - suyu sava. From the collections of the Nenets Museum of Local Lore

Left: Nenets hat Nyanduy on display at the Nenets Museum of Local Lore

In the center: Mannequin of a child in a fawn hat - Suyu Sawa. Ethnographic complex NCM

Right: Nenets family from the Kanin tundra - a woman in a cap

Also present in the Nenets wardrobe fur pants , both female and male, and an absolutely sacred thing - belt

In 2011, the governor of the Nenets Autonomous Okrug of the Arkhangelsk Region, Igor Fedorov, while visiting the Reindeer Herder Day at the Ilyich’s Path agricultural enterprise, received a Nenets men’s belt with a set of appropriate attributes as a gift from the chairman of the farm, Ivan Lageisky.

Children dress the same as adults

Children's owl

Children's malitsa

Children's frog (panic)

Well, since we’re talking about Reindeer Herder’s Day, this is the most important holiday of the Nenets, where, in particular, traditional clothing shows and competitions are held.

Reindeer Herder's Day is held at the beginning and middle of the calendar spring in numerous regions of the Far North, where local reindeer herders come from nearby camps especially for this purpose.

I wrote a lot and often about this holiday VII International Meeting of Representatives of the Arctic Council Observer States in the Arctic Council, Sabetta, Yamal, August 30, 2017. The guests were dressed in malichka shirts

Nenets singer Nadezhda Serotetto at some sporting event, where modern costumes for performances are stylized as a traditional Nenets costume.

In addition, in the summer, women wear loose dresses, apparently sewn on the principle of a malichka shirt.

And enthusiasts began to appear, trying to create modern Nenets ethnic fashion outside the Far North.

For example.

But Nadezhda Serotetto performs in such dresses

Do you like Nenets clothes? What would you like to try on or even wear?

Nenets women's costume, 68th edition.

Dolls in folk costumes No. 68. Nenets women's costume.

A wonderful doll, another “winter” doll in the series - she is one of those whom we have already seen on the DeAgostini stand, now we know exactly who she is.

According to clarification from Tatyana (who lives in the Nenets Autonomous Okrug), the doll is called - Nenka.

A doll in fur shoes and a warm winter suit with a headdress.

The set of women's clothing includes a swing-out double fur winter parka - pants, side skirts and a hat.

Dolls in folk costumes No. 68. Nenets women's costume, photo of the doll.

Side view. The hood is glued and cannot be removed. Just like mittens and boots.

The women's parka is hinged and can be fur up or down. The upper part is made from calf skins with smooth pile. Mittens made of kamus and an arctic fox collar are sewn to the parka. A parka made from white or colorful skins is considered elegant. The parka is decorated with ornamental stripes made using the fur mosaic technique. The autumn-summer clothing of the northern Khanty, like that of the Nenos, is yagushka, and in its cut it looks the same as winter clothing, but is made of cloth.

Pima are Nenets national fur shoes that Nenets women sew themselves. Pimas are very comfortable shoes for long walks, warm and light. Pimas consist of a stocking sewn with fur on the inside and a lower part made of camus with the fur on the outside.

Nenets women's winter clothing comes in two types, differing both in cut and in the nature of decoration and decoration. Women's outer winter clothing (the Russian name in the west is panica, beyond the Urals - yagushka), unlike men's, has a slit in the front. Currently, it is found in two types, which differ both in cut and in the nature of decoration and decoration.

Panitsa is usually worn with a belt, with the right hem slightly overlapping the left. The belt is woven from multi-colored threads up to three meters long; the belt ends with tassels at both ends.

Sidor is a headdress that is usually sewn from red cloth and decorated with beads; the sidor serves as an elegant addition to a costume. Nenki women combed their hair in the middle and braided it into two braids. The Nenets women's hat is very elegant and warm due to double fur inside and outside.

Making crafts from leftover yarn. "Dressy little girl."

Master class with detailed description.
Berdnik Galina Stanislavovna, primary school teacher at the Laryak correctional (special) comprehensive national boarding school for students with disabilities.
Description: This master class provides a detailed description of how to make the “Elegant Malitsa” craft.
The material can be used by primary school teachers, preschool teachers, and additional education teachers.
Purpose: The work can be used as a gift or interior decoration.
Target: make a craft using cardboard and thread.
Tasks:
1. Develop fine motor skills of the fingers, a sense of volume and shape, logical thinking, and creativity.
2. Expand and enrich children’s ideas about their native land, the life and creativity of the peoples of the North.
3. Cultivate hard work and perseverance, the desire to complete the work started. Develop and cultivate neatness and aesthetic taste.

Malitsa is a full-length coat of reindeer fur with a hood. The cut resembles a spacious shirt, reaching to the knees, has a sewn hood, and mittens are tightly sewn to the sleeves with the fur facing out. To protect malitsa from dampness and sun, for a long time the peoples of the North have worn a malitsa shirt made of cloth of different colors over it. Craftswomen decorate it with unique patterns made from different furs, colored cloth, and beads.

Materials and tools: colored cardboard, knitting threads, embroidery threads, needle, scissors, pencil, ruler, glue.

Stages of completing the craft:
1. We begin work by preparing the base of the craft. Using the template, we will prepare parts from colored cardboard.

2. Cut out the main part from blue cardboard and use a thick needle or awl to pierce parallel holes, as shown in the photo.

3. Using the marked punctures, we embroider a cross-shaped “Goat” pattern.

Enlarged view of the "Goat" seam.

4. Let's start making the malitsa hood. To do this, we will prepare a ring of thick cardboard with a diameter of 4 cm. We will cut the knitting threads 10-12 cm long.

5. Fold the thread in half, forming a loop, and connect it to the ring. Northern beauty in traditional costume.

Traditional clothing of a Nenets woman - panic. This is a double (fur inside and outside) fur coat with diverging floors, which has a low collar made of deer, arctic fox or hare fur. Like the malitsa, mittens are sewn to the sleeves of the panic. In summer, panics are sewn from bright cloth.

Panitsa is decorated with beads, ribbons and appliqués made of fur and fabrics. The front side is also embroidered.
It was these beaded embroideries and fur mosaic ornaments that glorified the products of northern women throughout the world. Each ornament has its own traditional name: “deer antlers”, “hare ears”, “birch branches”, “plague”, etc.

Let's look at the panic in more detail.
Unlike men's malitsa clothing, women's panitsa (yagushka) has a slit in the front.

Currently, it is found in two types, differing both in cut and in the nature of decoration and decoration. Usually, four summer skins are used to make a frog, the same number of autumn skins are used for the lining, and one skin is used for the collar.

The first type of frog, the beaver or squirrel frog, was common among the western groups of the Nenets, mainly in the Kanin and Timan tundras. Nowadays this type of clothing is no longer sewn; it is preserved only from the older generation and is considered ancient and elegant.
The upper part of this clothing (up to the waist) is sewn from pieces of squirrel, beaver, and fox fur, inserting into the seams scraps of multi-colored cloth, twisted at the base with narrow strips of fur. The ends of these flaps hang freely along the chest, back and sleeves.
The sleeves are straight, strongly tapering towards the cuff, wide at the armhole, and the upper part of the sleeve is sewn together with the shoulder part of the bodice, so that the clothing on the shoulders does not have a seam. A characteristic feature of this type of clothing is the absence of vertical construction seams - all other seams are horizontal.

Sewing clothes always starts from the top. The hem is sewn separately and then sewn on. The lower part of the clothing (from the waist) consists of several horizontal stripes of first deer and then dog fur, separated from each other by cloth stitching, consisting of multi-colored strips of cloth sewn in a vertical direction.

The stripes of fur and cloth are arranged as follows (from top to bottom):
a strip of fine calfskin of a dark color, where stripes of light and dark fur alternate in the vertical direction,
four to five horizontally located light and dark narrow stripes,
stripe of black dog fur,
cloth insert;
a strip of fluffy dog ​​fur, pile down;
cloth insert,
edge of white dog fur.
The width of the ornament is usually 4-5 cm.

Various ornamental motifs can be used in one yagushka. For example, there are “deer antlers” on the hem, “fox elbows” on the shelves, and “heads” on the cuffs. The seams connecting the cloth inserts with the dog fur are laid with deer hair under the neck.

The collar is usually made from arctic fox or red fox fur. The same fur is used to edge the floors. Paired rope (made of colored suede) straps that serve as ties are sewn to the sides from the collar to the knees at some distance from each other. Usually there are 14 of them (7 on each side). These straps are tied from the inside. Why are the hands taken out of the sleeves, as in a malitsa?
Camus mittens with a hole at the wrist for removing the hand are sewn to the sleeves.

The frog has a lining made from a winter or summer bed with the fur inside. The cut of the lining differs from the cut of the garment itself. The back is cut from a whole bed, but has small wedges at the bottom on the sides; the floors are also cut from a whole piece each. Strips of fur from under the neck of the deer are sewn along the sides, the long pile of which does not allow cold air to pass through the cut.
The lining sleeves are cut separately from the neck part of the skin and have small gussets. The lining is usually not sewn on, but simply put on under the yagushka.

The second type of clothing is common as everyday and work wear, and sometimes holiday wear in the western tundra of Yamal. These clothes are made entirely from deer fur. In terms of cut, it differs significantly from the first type, because it is cut in a vertical direction.
The garment consists of a back, two floors, the sleeves are cut out separately and have gussets. The back consists of those panels, and the middle one is usually made of a different color than the side ones. The sides are also made from fur of a different color than the shelves (usually dark).
Strips of white and dark fur (or cloth) are laid on the shoulders, along the sides and on the cuffs.
The hem of the product is sewn separately, also from deer fur, usually the same color as the sides. Two or three strips of white and dark fur are also laid between it and the lower part of the camp. Loose strips of cloth are sometimes sewn only on the upper back. The collar is made from arctic fox tails.

This women's clothing is richly decorated with sewn-in patterns made of white and dark colored camus with a layer of colored cloth - on the shoulders, along the sides and cuffs of the sleeves. Mittens here are sometimes sewn to the clothing itself, and not to the lining.
Women's outerwear is usually worn with a belt, with the right hem slightly overlapping the left.

There are also special summer panics, sewn from cloth, similar in cut to winter ones.
The main details of the summer frog can be red and green, and the shelves, hem and cuffs of the sleeves can be blue and black. Elderly Nenets wear black summer yagushkas, modestly decorated with sewn stripes of yellow or red cloth.

In cold weather, Nenkas put a fur bonnet on their head. It is sewn from a kamus with an edge, and at the back hang figured slotted copper plates, beads, buttons, coins, which ring melodiously when moving.

Notice how stern and yet beautiful this woman’s face is. Its beauty matches the harsh northern summer. And at the same time, the woman looks like the wife of an Indian chief. By the way, in the 90s, Vorkuta hosted a conference of the peoples of the far north, which was attended by both Indians and Japanese...

Nenets forms of clothing are common throughout the Arctic from the Kola Peninsula to Taimyr.

Nenets dwellings and clothing

The main type of old Nenets dwelling is a conical chum (me). It was built from 30-50 (depending on the size of the plague) poles, covered in winter with two layers of tires made from reindeer skins with hair trimmed on them. The inner tires were placed with the wool on the inside of the chum, and the outer tires were placed with the wool on the outside. In summer, tents were sometimes covered with tires made from strips of boiled birch bark.

The hearth was located in the center of the plague on an iron sheet. Along the diameter of the chum, at a height of about 1.5 m, 2 poles were suspended horizontally. Their ends were threaded into loops at the poles on both sides of the entrance, and the opposite ends were threaded into a loop on a special vertical pole (simza). Short crossbars were laid on horizontal poles, from which boilers and teapots were hung on hooks by their arms. On both sides of the hearth, 1-4 boards were laid to serve as the floor. The place on both sides of the hearth, to the right and left of the entrance to the tent, constituted the actual living and sleeping parts of the tent. Mats made of willow twigs were laid out on the ground, and on them were other mats woven from dry grass. Deer skins were spread over the mats. Whole winter reindeer skins served as bedding. The part of the chum opposite the entrance was considered a “clean” place. Home shrines, dishes and some foodstuffs were kept there. The sizes of the plague varied. Rich households installed large, constantly renewed plagues. In the summer, such farms almost never used fur tires, which often had to be done by the poor, who did not have the opportunity as easily as the rich to exchange the birch bark needed for summer tires from the taiga population.

The poor usually lived in small, cramped tents with fur covers, almost devoid of hair from prolonged use. Sometimes there was no plank floor in poor tents. Broken poles were not replaced with new ones for years. The upper parts of the fur tires, burnt by sparks, were not repaired for a long time due to a lack of skins. There were poor people who had only half a plague, that is, one pair of tires and a few poles. Such two or three farms usually united and assembled one common tent from the parts they had. Finally, there were also owners who became workers precisely because of the lack of housing.

The plague was completely transported during migrations. Only in the taiga, for example, among the forest Nenets, where material for poles could be found anywhere, the skeletons of tents were left at the parking sites, which eliminated the need to transport excess cargo. The installation and disassembly of the chum was carried out by women; men helped only in bad weather (blizzard, rain, etc.).

There, in the forest-tundra and taiga, and in some places in the tundra (Kanin Peninsula), along the routes of ordinary migrations, barns were built from logs or blocks on high supports (tin). Winter hunting equipment, fur clothing, furs, food, etc. were temporarily left in them.

At winter and summer camps, boardwalks were built on high support posts (pairs), where supplies of meat, fish, harness, etc. were stored.

Most households roamed independently, and their tents stood alone, less often in two or three. Only on the fishing sands were sometimes 7-10 or even 20 tents installed in the summer. In the summer, with an abundance of mosquitoes, a larger herd is easier to graze, so reindeer herders united 2-3, less often 4 farms and placed their tents nearby. During the calving period and during autumn migrations to the forests, plagues were placed alone. Rich reindeer herders, who had herds of 2-5 and even 10 thousand reindeer, settled in large camps, consisting of the owner’s tent and the tents of his wives and workers. Sometimes one such owner had several camps (one camp for each herd).

The fuel used in the taiga and forest-tundra was fallen wood and dead wood, and in the tundra it was driftwood or shrubs (willow, birch, alder). In places where even shrubs are rare (for example, in northern Yamal), black moss (a type of lichen) was often used as fuel.

The plague was lit with fat lamps, candles made of deer fat frozen in molds from the deer esophagus, lamps without glass and purchased candles (from the wealthy), and most often only with fire from the hearth.

Meals were taken sitting on the floor, legs crossed, at a table with low legs. Only on Novaya Zemlya and in the northern regions of the present Komi Republic have the Nenets settled in the second half of the 19th century. lived in log huts.

During fishing and hunting, sometimes overturned boats, wind barriers (hangg) and dugouts (ya'hard, ya'mya), covered with pine branches and turf, served as temporary housing.

The main food product of the Nenets was domestic reindeer meat, it accounted for up to 85% of all food, and among the low-reindeer people - fish, which was eaten mainly raw (fresh and frozen), less boiled. Yukola was also prepared from fish. Due to the constant lack of salt, fish was rarely and weakly salted for future use, so the fish was poorly preserved. A frequent dish was fat boiled from the entrails of fish and mixed with caviar, pieces of fish or berries; They also consumed seal fat (melted) and deer lard. The meat was usually boiled (but not fried). It was often eaten raw (steamed or ice cream). The meat was preserved by smoking. In addition to deer and poultry meat, arctic fox and seal meat were occasionally eaten. They consumed berries (cloudberries, blueberries, blueberries) and other plants, such as angelica (from the Umbelliferae family).

Bread, which with the arrival of the Russians became universally known to the Nenets, was consumed in small quantities, and even then mainly only by the wealthy elite. They usually ate three times a day. In the morning and afternoon they drank tea with bread and fat, in the evening, after tea, they ate meat or fish broth and boiled meat or fish. Children from the age of two ate the same as adults. Chewed boiled meat and boiled brain served as transition food after mother's milk.

Nenets clothing - malitsa and sovik for men, yagushka clothing - for women; national fur shoes - Pima.

Malitsa (maltsya) is a long, closed garment made of deer skins, sewn with fur inside, with a sewn-on hood and mittens. In the Kaninskaya and Timan tundras, malitsa with a high round collar is common. The malitsa does not have a hood; it is replaced by a tall hat made of deer fur, with a sewn-in round bottom and short earmuffs. A cover made of thick material, sometimes cloth, is usually put on top of the malitsa, protecting the inner part from dampness and dirt. Until recently, many men did not wear shirts and put the malitsa directly on their naked bodies. Pants that reached the middle of the shin were sewn in the old days from rovduga. In the second half of the 19th century. Purchased trousers made of cloth or paper came into use, almost ousting rovduzhnyo from everyday life.

In severe cold and snowfall, a sovik was worn over the malitsa, also known among Russians as “goose”, “kumysh”, “sokuy”. This clothing was somewhat different in cut from the malitsa and was sewn with the fur on the outside. It also had a sewn-on hood, but did not have mittens; among the Yenisei and, sometimes, among the European Nenets, the sovik was cut together with the hood.

Shoes were pima (beer) - high fur boots made of kamus, with soles made of “brushes” (the skin between the large and small hooves of a deer), less often from the skin taken from the deer’s forehead. Insoles made of dry grass were placed inside the pims. Pima were worn with a fur stocking, known among Russians as “chizhi”, “tyazhi”, “lipty”. Women's shoes differed only in the details of the pattern. In summer and autumn, men wore pimas made of seal skin or ordinary ones, but already worn, as well as rovdu boots with fur soles (tanggad). Clothes at this time were old, worn malitsas and cloth soviks. There were no special summer clothes.

Women's clothing - panitsa or yagushka (pans) - was sewn from deer fur in the form of a double, fur coat outward and inward, with a low collar made of deer or arctic fox fur and mittens sewn on like malitsa. A fur bonnet served as a headdress in extreme cold. Ringing metal (copper) slotted plaques and beads were attached to the hood. In summer they wore an old panica or clothes of a similar cut made of cloth.

The clothing of children under 3-4 years of age consisted of a fur jumpsuit (with the fur on the inside), a “parka” - clothes of the same cut as the malitsa, but double (with the fur on the inside and outside) and fur boots, which differed little from the stockings of adults. From the age of 5-6, children usually wore clothes that were almost no different from the clothes of adults. Infants were placed in wooden cribs and covered with a fur blanket. All fur clothing (and often cloth) was sewn with threads from the back and leg tendons of deer. The rich had malitsas made from deer skins, well-matched in color, often with a hood made of otter fur. The women's coats were trimmed with fox and otter fur, and the collars were made from arctic fox tails.

Festive clothing differed from everyday clothing in the abundance of decorations and fur appliqués (for women) and color (white or dark owls for men, pimas made of colorful kamus, etc.). Clothing, especially women's, was decorated with inserts of wide horizontal and vertical stripes of colored fur, fur appliqués of white and black fur, and less often with strips of colored cloth sewn at one end to clothing (for example, to an owl). Purchased metal jewelry (patterned bronze plaques, bells, bells), beads, and, less commonly, seed beads were widespread.

Men most often cut their hair in a circle, less often they grew it long and braided it in two braids. Women combed their hair in the middle and braided it into two braids, sometimes lengthened by false braids made of strips of colored cloth and woolen laces with copper ringing jewelry attached to them. For women, a beaded forehead decoration with su holes with metal chains suspended from it was common.