Empire style in women's clothing for the modern lady. Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation Moscow State University of Design and Technology

Empire style is the fashion of 1795 - 1820. This style was a real contrast to the full layered skirts and corsets. The previous fashion had become obsolete: no one wore wigs or crinolines anymore. The Age of Enlightenment promoted living in harmony with the world, and this requires completely different clothes. How will you harmonize with nature if you are wearing a tight corset and an iron hoop under your dress? In the formation of new fashion, they were guided by Ancient Rome and Greece, which influenced the styles of dresses.

Merveilleuses - this is the name given to the eccentrics and trendsetters of the Directory. These included Teresa Tallien and Josephine Beauharnais; fashion houses are still inspired by the outfits of these women. With the light and slightly pale hand of Tallien, everything that was previously considered the height of indecency boldly came into fashion. Many wits, laughing theatrically, joked at dinners that Parisian women only need a nightgown to dress up in fashion. Empire style in clothes was called in another way “a la sauvage” (a la sauvage - naked). In England, the Empire style was made popular by the scandalous mistress of the British admiral Emma Hamilton.

A women's suit in the Empire style outlined the shape of the body. Transparent cambric shirts, fashionable at that time, made it possible to see legs decorated with thin gold hoops. If a woman’s outfit did not show her legs from her buttocks to her shoes, then they said that she had no taste and did not know how to dress at all. The chastity of Empire style dresses can be compared with our modern times. As the Empire whimsical woman walked down the street, her dress, which was coquettishly tucked in back and front, showed off the “play of her buttocks” with every step.

As for colors, at the peak of popularity were light shades that indicated high status, almost transparent fabrics, and white muslin. It was at that time that they learned to bleach fabrics.

Empire style dress

A distinctive feature of the dresses is a short bodice with a ribbon edging, which was tied at the back with a beautiful bow. Long dresses in the Empire style were straight and followed the contours of the female figure. At the back it was draped in beautiful waves, which often turned into a train. The bodice of the dresses was generously decorated with embroidery with silver or gold threads and sequins. The sleeves were made in the form of “lanterns”, which were complemented by elegant gloves. Gloves were predominantly light in color and made from lightweight fabrics such as chiffon, but always lined with silk. The bravest ladies wore dresses with deep slits (from the waist down) on the sides. Any movement in such a dress was accompanied by a demonstration of the girl’s legs, which were richly decorated with all kinds of chains and bracelets.

Empire style jewelry

Only luxury and chic. Long strands of pearls, necklaces made of precious stones, brooches with cameos, gold jewelry imitating climbing flowers. Long earrings with diamonds, ankle and arm bracelets made of precious metals, rings that were worn directly on gloves.

Empire style in clothing: modernsight

Many years have passed since those times and the modern Empire style is expressed in clothing by the following features:

• Draped bodice in tandem with a high waist.
• Deep neckline.
• Evening dresses in empire style with a high waist and a ribbon under the bust line.
• The outfits are complemented with sandals or ballet flats. Empire style does not welcome heels.
• Loose cut, flared skirt (this is especially typical for summer dresses in the empire style)
• Lantern-shaped sleeves or no sleeves at all.
• Beautiful cutouts on the back of blouses and dresses.
• The length can be any from midi to maxi.
• In a modern interpretation of the style, various prints and designs on fabric are allowed.
• Blouses and tunics in this style are no less relevant than dresses. In modern empire style, they are combined with skinny jeans or trousers.
• Rich decor of the bodice. Sequins, embroidery, pearl beads.
• Modern Empire style clothing has a richer color palette. Nowadays fashion is not limited to certain colors, on the contrary, a sundress in the Empire style can be either a pastel and delicate shade (blue, peach, lilac, light green) or bright colors - fuchsia, scarlet, blue, purple, burgundy.

Humanity is once again convinced of the correctness of the well-known truth about the novelty of well-forgotten antiquity. Fashion takes another turn of the spiral, taking us back to the ancient times of the reign of the French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. It was then that the Empire style in clothing and art began. Today, as before, it is very in demand and popular. Thanks to the uniqueness of the silhouette, the modern Empire style is distinguished by great variability and versatility. Let's take a closer look at this long-standing style and find out its distinctive features.

The impetus for the development of European costume and the emergence of the Empire style was the revolutionary events of the late 18th century in France. Dramatic changes have affected all spheres of life in European society. It was in those times that the basic principles of the formation of historical costume were laid down. The bourgeois revolution eliminated class inequality in clothing, which led to the birth of a new style, characterized by external uniformity. The reign of the French Emperor Napoleon until 1815 coincided with the Empire era (from the Latin empire) in art and costume.

His wife Josephine Beauharnais became the main legislator and a big fan of the new style. She strongly supported the court tailor Leroy, who dressed the imperial court and the entire French nobility in new fashion.

The Empire style in clothing of the 19th century was distinguished by a loose silhouette, laconic cut and clear lines. Women completely abandoned suffocating corsets, fluffy crinolines, bulky wigs and frilly jewelry. The cutesy and opulent Baroque was replaced by an era inspired by the culture of ancient Greece and Rome. Her trends were based on the beauty of natural forms and harmony with the surrounding world.

What is the Empire style in clothing?

The silhouette of the costume of the Restoration period is characterized by a desire for the cylindrical outlines of an ancient column. The cut of the dresses resembled Greek chitons. Summer models were made from the finest soft fabrics - cambric, muslin, muslin, silk. Clothing for walks and visits was made from woolen fabric. For ballroom dresses, expensive materials were chosen: velvet, satin, taffeta, lace. Elegant clothing was complemented by beautiful jewelry in the hair or an elegant hat. The female image acquired features of sophistication and tenderness.

Read also: High-waisted shorts: review of models (+ 40 photos)

A distinctive feature of the Empire style in clothing of the 18th century was the proportions of the costume, dividing the figure in a ratio of 1:6. Another characteristic feature of the new fashion was a narrow bodice and a long skirt with a small train, widened at the bottom. Such outfits were called schmiz (from the French сhemise - shirt). At first, these were really undershirts that were worn under dresses, then they began to be worn on their own.

The main emphasis in new models of women's clothing was placed on a high waistline, decorated with all kinds of bows and belts. It is this feature, which beautifully emphasizes the chest, that allows the empire style to remain relevant in today’s life.

In the first years of the reign of the style, they preferred to wear white dresses. A little later, plain clothes of various colors came into fashion. The cut of laconic shapes was complemented by an abundance of decorative solutions. The canvas of shiny dense fabrics was decorated with antique relief patterns, skillfully embroidered with a single-color thread.

The description of the shmiz dress will be incomplete if we forget to mention the accessories that complemented and diversified the outfits. Long kid gloves were worn under short puffed sleeves with wide cuffs. European women's shoulders were covered with Indian cashmere shawls, and their necks were covered with a long narrow scarf-boa made of feathers or fur.

The empire style in women's clothing intended for walks in nature is reflected in new types of models. Shortened Spencer jackets were very comfortable when riding. A long redingote coat was equally comfortable to wear for men and women of any age.

In Rus', wealthy fashionistas tried to keep up with European style and often ordered elegant clothes from London or Paris. The Russian Empire style in the clothes of provincial ladies was distinguished by a mixture of fashionable elements with traditional cut. Unable to buy clothes abroad, noblewomen and merchant women sewed to order, imitating the capital's trends. The clothes of the common people also had a fashionable silhouette, but were distinguished by modest trim and cheap fabrics.

The Empire style emerged at the beginning of the 19th century. Its founder is considered to be Napoleon's wife. It is to Josephine that we owe the unusually delicate styles of dresses. The style is inspired by antique themes with their natural elegance. Nowadays, the models closest to the historical style can be seen in wedding fashion and graduates’ outfits. Of course, they are often seen in feminine looks on the red carpet.

Historical Empire style

The Empire style dress had certain features. The first, perhaps the most recognizable feature, can be considered the high waistline, which he inherited from the Greek outfit. Fashionistas of the 19th century literally found it easier to breathe after the requirement to wear a corset was abolished. The second characteristic feature of the dresses was an A-shaped cut; the skirt often had a small train.

Historical dresses in the Empire style were ankle-length and were sewn exclusively from thin, soft, enveloping and flowing fabrics: translucent cotton, silk, etc. In such dresses, the images became weightless, quivering, and tender. Considering the fact that Empire dresses were worn with shoes without heels or very low ones, the woman of that era was visually a true antipode to the beauties of the times with their pompous dresses, excessive and often pretentious decor.

Empire style dresses were decorated with a deep neckline, as well as puffy or small puffed sleeves. Very often the emphasis was placed on the high waist of the dress: there was embroidery, a ribbon or a feminine bow. The image of the French women was complemented by gloves and jewelry in curled hair, or a hat.

from the movie "Pride and Prejudice" outfits of the characters in the Empire style

Empire style in modern clothing

An empire dress adorns a woman with absolutely any look. Its high waist and draping fabrics allow you to hide imperfections and look elegant. Modern dresses often look simpler and more modest than historical ones. They don’t have to be long at all; mini and medium length options are quite possible. However, the main element - the high waist - remains unchanged.

These days, Empire style dresses are still made from flowing fabrics, but a more laconic style allows them to be worn not only in evening looks, but also as part of everyday looks for the spring-summer season. They often lack puff sleeves, simplifying the design. The outfits of Josephine's time mostly gravitated towards shades of white, now the color range is definitely wider. In essence, an empire dress for a modern fashionista can be of absolutely any color.

The most recognizable item in the Empire style today is the dress. However, you can quite successfully put together a set with a blouse and a skirt. The blouse should be distinctly feminine; it is best if its design reflects at least a couple of characteristic style elements, for example, voluminous puff sleeves and a bow; options with a high waistline are good. The skirt can be quite simple, straight or a medium-length pencil skirt. But it is preferable not to wear trousers; they contradict too much the mood of the Empire style.

Among the variety of fashion trends, there are those that do not lose their relevance under any circumstances. What is the secret of the sustainable popularity of such stylistic solutions? As life shows, this is explained by the practicality, convenience and versatility of certain things. Thanks to these qualities, the empire style in clothing can be considered a veteran of the fashion catwalk.

People have long been tired of contemplating the slender, long-legged creations that are imposed on them as the generally accepted standard of beauty. Today's fashion is increasingly gravitating towards the classical canons of appearance - soft roundness of shapes, femininity, sophistication and grace.

Imperial heritage or history of the Empire style

The name of the style comes from the French word empire - empire. The Empire style owes its appearance to the wife of Emperor Napoleon. The beautiful Josephine was a big fan of ancient culture. It was she who introduced high-waisted dresses into fashion at that time - a characteristic feature of the Greek toga.

The Empire style in clothing of the 19th century was characterized by lightness, simplicity and naturalness. The cut of the dress included a short bodice with a deep neckline and puffed sleeves with wide cuffs. The high waistline was emphasized with a satin ribbon. It was tied at the back with a beautiful bow. The lower part of the dress flowed softly along the body. The dress looked straight at the front, but was gathered at the waist at the back. Small folds created beautifully flowing coattails.

Dresses were made from thin transparent fabrics lined with thick silk. The bodice of evening and festive dresses was embroidered with patterned embroidery made of gold and silver threads. A thin train was sewn at the back, giving the outfit lightness and airiness.

In cool weather, a cashmere shawl was thrown over the shoulders - a luxurious accessory. Headdresses had a wide variety of shapes. Hats, berets, turbans, caps and bonnets were in use. To emphasize the grace and whiteness of the hands, they wore tall, thin gloves made of soft kid.

Several rows of pearl beads were wrapped around the long neck. They wore various bracelets on their arms and legs, and their fingers wore rings and rings with precious stones. Tiaras and long dangling earrings were popular decorations.

A description of the Empire style would be incomplete without mentioning the requirements for appearance. Beauties of the 19th century were distinguished by delicate white skin, rounded shoulders and high breasts. The natural beauty of the face was valued, so cosmetics were almost never used.

Over time, dresses got rid of the train and began to have a corset. Outfits began to be increasingly decorated with various laces, frills, and ruffles. The shoulder line gradually expanded, the waist shifted to its natural place, although the emphasized chest remained. The length of the skirts also changed - they became noticeably shorter.

Who suits an empire style dress?

The beauty of imperial outfits is that, in addition to convenience and practicality, they have rare versatility. The simple cut of the products is so successful that it adorns almost any figure. Thin, tall girls gain femininity and flexibility. Empire style dresses make short women incredibly slim and make them look taller. For plump ladies, such clothes are especially beneficial. It can beautifully emphasize the round shape of the breast. And an imperfect waist, large belly and wide hips are well hidden by the flowing folds of the expanding hem.

Empire style in modern clothing

Josephine's designs did not dominate Europe as a whole for very long, but fashion designers never forgot about them. Modern couturiers never tire of developing new modifications of classic decoration. After all, such clothes are suitable for any life situation. Modern style is present in numerous dresses and sundresses. Here, the high chest line characteristic of the Empire style, edged with a wide ribbon, is noted. The lightness of the flowing silhouette has also been preserved.

The top can be very different - with shoulders, with straps, with long or short sleeves. The contour of the neckline depends only on the imagination and characteristics of the female figure. A round, triangular, square or oval neckline can be frankly deep or chastely high.

Evening dresses are usually performed in a traditional, floor-length style. Casual dresses have an arbitrary length, sometimes reaching the minimum hip level. Models that are too short are usually worn by young people who are supporters of the baby doll style.

Empire style in the office

Imagine that even a restrained business style gladly accepts dresses with a tight-fitting bodice and a slightly widened skirt. Laconic cut and modest finishing look appropriate within the strictest dress code.

If the company declares a democratic atmosphere, then the excessive severity of the lines is well softened by a cheerful print in the form of contrasting polka dots or a floral arrangement. A lace collar, a light jacket and a handbag in a bright, rich color add some pomp and relaxation to the look.

For every day

The style of clothing is completely unrelated to seasonality. Empire dresses are the ideal model for your daily wardrobe. They look equally good with or without long sleeves. Models that have an asymmetrical arrangement of straps or an exciting “clip” instead of an adjacent neckline look original.

A fashionable dress goes well with sandals or sandals with thin straps that wrap around the ankles - a kind of reminder of the Greek origin. In cool weather, ballet flats or low-heeled pumps will come in handy.

On the holiday

Empire style dresses are the ideal style for wedding dresses. They are made from natural silk, delicate chiffon or the finest lace. The tall, slender bride looks great in open sandals. The lack of height is compensated for by dress shoes with stiletto heels.

To bring the image as close as possible to the empire style, do a smooth hairstyle with an even parting and tight curls falling onto the face. Long hair is braided and tied at the back in a thin net.

Any woman will look feminine and sophisticated in a long dress. Pay attention to the photo - what variations of evening and cocktail dresses have not been invented by fashionable couturiers. In a festive style, the bodice can easily be done without straps; this will further emphasize the smooth slope of the shoulders. Thin, lightweight fabrics smoothly fit the figure, forming soft folds and airy draperies. There may be deep slits at the hem, which makes the look more sexy and mysterious.

A long skirt becomes a real work of art after it is decorated with intricate embroidery, elegant lace or shiny stones. All you have to do is put on dress shoes, pick up an elegant clutch, and the whole world will immediately be at your feet.

Department of Special Compositions

ABSTRACT

Completed by: TILP student

Botokaraeva M. Ch.

Checked by: Alibekova M.I.

Signature:____________

Moscow 2014

- the emergence of the Empire style

- women's costume during the Empire period of the 19th century

- women's hats

- women's hairstyles

- women's shoes

- women's accessories

- men's costume in the Empire period of the 19th century

- men's hats

- men's hairstyles

- men's shoes

- men's accessories

- conclusion

- literature

The emergence of the Empire style(1804-1815)

The Empire style arose in France after the Great French Revolution and was guided by examples of ancient fashion.

The fashion of the period of the French Revolution was temporary and was characteristic only of France itself. Post-revolutionary French fashions of the late 18th and early 19th centuries had already spread to other European countries. But the history of European costume of the 19th century began precisely with the revolutionary events in France. The French bourgeois revolution formally abolished class inequality in clothing. Noble aristocratic fashion gave way to bourgeois fashion, the main principle of which was external uniformity. Class position was now determined by the presence of fashionable toilets and jewelry. The same straight silhouette, the same simplicity of lines and many vertical folds

In 1804, Napoleon declared himself emperor. Period from 1804 to 1815 in the art and history of costume it is called “empire” (from the French “empire” - “empire”).

This style is reminiscent of the classicism of previous years, since it borrowed external forms from antiquity. But now the ideal is not strict and elegant Greek art, but ponderous and magnificent Roman art. The idea of ​​world domination of the Romans was close to Napoleonic aggressive policy.

The Empire style, cold, formal, majestic, was present in everything: in architecture, interior, furniture. It was also reflected in the costume of this period.

Women's costume during the Empire period

In the post-revolutionary years, women wore light, elegant clothes in light colors; tunic-type dresses, belted high under the chest. (see figure 1)

In women's clothing there is a cylindrical silhouette of antiquity.

Women's costume is divided strictly according to its purpose: ballroom, home, for walking.

2

The formal dresses of this time had a small train (then it gradually disappears) and a deep rounded neckline. Long gloves were worn with the ballgown.

At the very beginning of the 19th century, the fashionable color was white, then different colors, but in any case monochromatic. Elegant dresses were embroidered with antique ornaments. The top women's clothing of this period was the spencer and the redingote. Women also used various capes; the most popular was the “kanza” - a light cape with long ends that were tied crosswise at the waist. Particularly fashionable were the very expensive Kashmir shawls, the art of draping which was highly valued. Russian fur coats were also worn as outerwear during this period.

An engraving of that time depicts such a “city toilet”: a cap-shaped hat, imitating an antique headdress with a net, with which Greek women held the entire mass of hair on the back of their heads. A dress with half-train, covered with a tunic, attached to the belt with a brooch of gold or silver; this tunic splits at the back. The bodice is very short and sleeveless. The hands are covered with the sleeves of the shirt.