When not to get a manicure. What to look for in a nail salon? Is it possible to restore nails with gel polish?

We learned from a professional what mistakes manicurists most often make and how they threaten our nails.

The technician uses the wrong file

Your technician uses a nail file that is too hard. The abrasiveness (hardness) of files for natural nails should be no more than 240 units. If something confuses you, ask the master what kind of file he uses, and then draw your own conclusions.

The master uses preparations with a high content of acetone

Your master uses products with a high acetone content. It is worth noting that the use of such products dries out the nail, which leads to its fragility. It is impossible to determine the percentage of acetone in a beauty salon, but there are two parameters by which it can be recognized: the strong smell of the solvent and the glass bottle. The last parameter indicates that the concentration of acetone is too high to use plastic packaging.

The master files your nails before coating

There is no need to file down the nail plate before applying gel coatings. If your artist carefully files down your nail before coating, run away from him. Unless, of course, you want to become the owner of thin and brittle nails.

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The master removes the gel coating with a cutter

When removing the gel coating using a device, you risk severely injuring your nail, making it thin and brittle. Most gel coatings dissolve perfectly with special removers and do not even require washing down the top layer.

The master uses a cheap lamp

Using a cheap lamp to dry gel polish is a direct path to dry and brittle nails. As a rule, cheap devices have lamps that generate too much radiation - terribly harmful to nails. Even if you are a layman in this matter, you can easily identify the “wrong” lamp: during drying, your nails will “burn with fire,” and your skin will tan slightly after the process is completed.

The master mixes drugs from different manufacturers

If your artist uses a base coat from one manufacturer, a color from another, and a topcoat from a third, run away from him. Such mixing of materials violates technology: there is a high probability of an unpredictable chemical reaction that can cause severe damage to your nails.

The master does not use preparations to moisturize nails

If your goal is long-lasting manicure and healthy nails, then you can’t do without moisturizing. Especially if you are a fan of gel coating or nail extensions. A professional nail technician always has in his arsenal a cuticle oil, scrub and lotion for hands and nails.

Master removes extended nails using a file

Filing acrylic nails is the stone age! Modern acrylic is easily dissolved using special means, while filing nails extended with this material can cause severe harm to your natural nails.

The master extends your nails too long or too thick

Nails that are too long (if their length exceeds the length of the natural nail plate) are quite dangerous. They become a so-called “lever” and under mechanical stress they not only break, but also injure the natural nail. And too much thickness of acrylic or gel puts pressure and slows down the growth of natural nails.

The beauty industry is moving forward by leaps and bounds, but this makes it increasingly difficult for us, ordinary consumers, to understand what is happening around us. There are so many legends and myths about gel polishes, and when we come to the salon, we are often faced with the ignorance of the masters and our own modesty, so we decided to look into the topic of nail coating and asked the founder manicure studio Ananasnails, Olga Panasenkova, answer the most frequently asked questions.

Can gel polish ruin your nails?

No, only the wrong technology can ruin your nails. The option of removing by soaking may not be suitable for a person, the solution itself may not be suitable for the brand of coating, and an acetone-containing liquid can be very harmful. As a result, a person simply “burns” his nails, the nail plate shrinks, turns white, and then his hands begin to hurt. Ideally, it is better to remove the gel polish with a device to the base (as when correcting extended nails), leaving a thin layer of it on the nail without damaging the nail plate. If you need to remove it down to the nail, then soak it in a liquid without acetone for no more than 3-5 minutes, this is enough for the base to gently peel off from the nail and for the plate not to be damaged by metal pushers. This is for those who don't want to do the coating. If after removal the client plans to make a new coating, then the base can not be soaked, but left in a thin layer. Since the base does not age, when a new layer polymerizes, they simply combine. This does not injure the nail itself, especially if it has been damaged before. If they wrap your nails in foil along with the color, scream and ask them to file them down to the base. If the master does not have a machine, then this can be done even with a file; there are hard buffs, after all. You cannot remain silent about this if you value your nails.

Removal by soaking is harmful due to the acetone in the composition, which dries out the nails, they begin to flake and crumble. All liquids work differently, usually they loosen the gel polish and it comes off well. You cannot keep the solution for more than 5 minutes, because it may cause a chemical burn. Sometimes the master asks you to sit for half an hour, but this is absolutely wrong. They ask you to tell me when it will burn. But it shouldn’t burn! This is already a chemical burn, and depending on your sensitivity, these will be different stages.

Now there are a lot of cheap removers on the market, as well as gel polishes themselves. Many cause allergies and burn the nail plate in combination with a powerful lamp. But the method of removing by soaking is a thing of the past; it is suitable only for those who want to take breaks and restore their nails after drying out.

By the way, about allergies. Are there any contraindications for gel polishes? What could be the consequences?
Gel polish itself is not harmful; the compositions are almost the same for all. There are several Chinese brands to which you may be allergic due to one component. There are absolutely hypoallergenic coatings like CND; now many good Russian brands produce high-quality products. The base should be good, and what brand of color you use is not particularly important. As for the quality of the color itself, it does not affect the nail plate in any way, it is only the appearance.

Sometimes craftsmen use cheap materials and fakes and perform the procedure incorrectly. Some aggressive drugs cause onycholysis. The nail moves away from the nail plate, and huge voids appear. In this case, you should not apply any gel polish. You need to take a long break for treatment. Sometimes masters, in pursuit of money, do not talk about the onset of onycholysis and cover their nails. But it doesn't work that way. Ideally, a specialist should not persuade a client with injuries to have a coating; it is better to advise a good doctor and check his health. Sometimes nails are an indicator of disorders in the body; you should immediately go check your kidneys, liver and other organs.

What types of manicure are there? Which one is better to choose? How do they combine with gel polishes?

There are classic, hardware and combined with cutting with scissors or nippers. The latter is the most modern type of manicure, because the master sees on dry skin where the dead skin cells end. This is an advantage to do the procedure without any cuts or damage. With a classic manicure, the cuticle soaks and turns white; if it is thin, you cannot avoid cuts. Hardware manicure is much better, the main thing is to take care of the attachments and clean them, but this is the responsibility of the master.

A classic manicure can be done before coating, but it is worth considering that gel polishes do not behave very well with water. We soak the old coating before applying a new one, do a manicure using water, and then degrease everything with alcohol wipes or dehydrators, but this additionally dries out the nail plate. Therefore, it is easier to do a hardware manicure on a dry surface, and here you will immediately understand that the skin is not damaged. Of course, here everything depends on the master and his skills: you can cut down a lot with the device, you can harm the client if you don’t know how to work with attachments. It all depends on the experience, diligence of the master and conscientiousness.

What is alignment and why is it needed?

Nowadays, almost everyone straightens the nail plate using gel polishes. This is the creation of the ideal nail architecture. All flaws are hidden with gel polish, a smooth surface is created, but quite a lot of base is used. If there is not enough of it, alignment will not work. Liquid bases can be used to level the nail plate, but this is not suitable for thin and brittle nails.

Often people ask to seal the end, but this makes no sense. The very first thing where the gel polish starts to fall off is the end, it gets touched and the gel polish starts to fall off.

How long can I wear gel polish and how often can I reapply it?

You cannot overuse gel polish, as detachment may occur. Water, foundation, food, anything can get under the coating. And germs can multiply. It is better to make corrections once every 3-4 weeks, but not less often, no matter how well the coating lasts. There may also be a greenhouse effect. If you use the classic removal option, then try to renew the coating not very often, otherwise you will dry out the nail plate. I have clients who go once every 10 days because they are annoyed by the appearance of the overgrown nail, but I only remove it with a device. We paint under the cuticle, carefully lifting it, but some nails grow quickly, everything is very individual.

Do I need to “rest” from gel polishes? Are breaks beneficial?

A break makes sense if you remove gel polishes with your teeth, hands and other unconventional methods, injuring your nail. You need to rest wisely, doing useful things for the body, for example, salt baths with oils. You can also rub in wax. The nail itself, its visible part, is dead cells. You need to nourish from the inside, a growing nail gets everything it needs from the nail bed, so it makes sense to take a course of vitamins, do paraffin therapy, use oils and care.

A good procedure for brittle nails and peeling is IBX: the product penetrates the very structure of the nail, it is something like nail lamination, it eliminates chips and glues the layers together. IBX can be done under coating. This is a good option if you had a bad removal done, but you don't want to go without color on your nails.

It takes at least 6 months for a nail to fully recover. And the master should not persuade you to cover it with something; a good master will simply offer to carry out the care procedure. If you go to the same nail technician for years and do not use aggressive removal products, then your nails will be fine and they are unlikely to need rest. You only need a break from a bad master and salon.

Is it possible to restore nails with gel polish?

It all depends on the problem. If your nails are thin, then they will feel good under the coating, but again, you cannot remove them with liquid, so as not to dry them out and injure them. It is better to change the coating more often, ask not to file the nail plate itself, and use only a soft buffer to level the base. Gel polish can help restore by protecting the nail plate from mechanical damage.

Sometimes people ask to add acrylic, but it doesn't restore anything, it just makes the nail stronger. A very good option if, for example, there is flaking at the ends. We do acrylic every other time because it stays in the base and we don't want to overload the nails.

What should you pay attention to when choosing a salon and specialist?

On the purity of the work, the presentation of the master, his development. If you look at the work, glare is an important indicator. The highlight shows the architecture of the nail, it should be oval and beautiful around the edges. If it is round, then the material is heavily piled up. If it goes crooked, it means the alignment failed. You can look at the end of the nail to make sure it is even. The highest point of the nail, the apex, should be truly the highest and taper off towards the edges. Each master has his own style, some make the coating thicker, some thinner.

It is worth paying attention to the appearance of the master, his concern for health: does the master use a spray for disinfection, a vacuum cleaner so as not to breathe dust, a mask, gloves, sterile instruments. If a person smells unpleasant or something is wrong, run away from such a salon. The master should look well-groomed and clean.

Can a master cheat with the sterility of instruments?

Tools must be in a craft bag of an air or steam sterilizer. We treat ours with air; within an hour, the instruments are treated with heat of 180 degrees. A logbook is kept. As for cheating, you can't be sure because sometimes the experts fry empty bags. In unscrupulous salons, the master may have only one set of tools, which he washes with water and alcohol spray and returns back to the bag. It's a matter of trust. I periodically go to different salons for the sake of experimentation and new information, I see who works how, so as not to make the same mistakes. One day I came to a salon where one of my clients went, where the masters did not change their gloves all day, they did both manicures and pedicures for everyone. The craftsman did not treat the instruments and, along with the remains of leather and other things, threw them into the dry heat. Such stories occur due to laziness; a non-lazy master prepares a disinfectant solution in advance. This way you can catch a fungus, or something more serious, because you can’t kill bacteria with dry heat alone, and the biomaterial remains on the instruments. They had no water in the cabin, although many use ultrasonic washers. Water can be added once every few days, but everything will be ready to clean the instruments before heat treatment.

What should the client know about tool processing?

There are certain stages of sterilization. The rules are as follows: we put the instruments in the solution for 15 minutes, then thoroughly rinse them with a brush for about 15 minutes and put them to dry (the instruments dry closed for an hour), then load them into bags, sign the date and put them in a dry heater. After frying, the indicators on the bags change colors. If you come to the salon and see that the package is lying with the indicator down, ask to see the package; if they refuse, leave this salon. We had a story: a girl got a manicure in another salon, they did a bad job, but the worst thing was that she developed a rash on her fingers, and it all ended with a dermatologist and treatment.

The tools can then be used for 60 days, which is very convenient when there is a small flow of people. The master must have at least three sets; in our salon, for example, there are 20 sets for three masters.

Everything is serious now with files too. These are either disposable or with replaceable disposable files. The bases are also sterilized after clients. Sometimes disposable files are given to clients, but everything is included in the price (such a manicure will cost from 2,000 rubles). We also sterilize metal-based pedicure files with dry heat.

It's better to go to trusted places. Don’t look for a master close to home, look for someone who does his job well and is responsible for your health, and not just your beauty. Let them do it for you longer in some salon, but you will be sure that you will not catch hepatitis there. Beauty is not worth such sacrifices.

What should you not be embarrassed to ask and ask the master about?

About the form. Each has its own form. The master can make a strict square, but some people like more rounded corners. Sometimes they ask to make the free edge softer. This may be unusual for the master, but the client must indicate exactly what is required. Don't be afraid to say something if you don't feel comfortable. If you feel that it is burning or painful, then you must say, since the master may not know about the client’s sensitivity. You always try to clean the cuticle deeply, but everyone has a different pain threshold and location of the capillaries. Sometimes there may be discomfort from pressing, there is no need to be shy.

What can and cannot be done before and after a manicure?

If you are going for a hardware manicure, you should not apply cream to your hands on the day of the procedure, because the attachments for the device will not be able to clean the skin, and the cutter will become clogged with softened skin. This will not allow you to clean the cuticle.

After a manicure, you can and should use oils, creams and other care. If your nails grow too long, you can remove the length with a nail file. Nothing should happen to the gel polish. If a chip occurs, the nail can also be filed.

Under no circumstances should you remove the coating with your fingers and teeth, or remove it at home with nail polish remover, or peel off the gel polish with metal sticks. This damages the nail. If you urgently need to remove the gel polish, you can file it down to the base, but it’s better to do all this in a salon. You should absolutely not cut the cuticle yourself or remove it from the side rollers, because this will make the skin even rougher. It is better to treat it with a device, and maintain it at home with a nail file, gently running it over the rough skin on the sides. The cuticle can be pushed back with an orange stick using oil; only the burrs can be trimmed

You should not give yourself a deep pedicure, because you can introduce bacteria to yourself. Remember that the tools at home must be individual, each person must have separate scissors and a file.

What should you never do in a nail salon under any circumstances? Advises Jamie Anne- leading master of the beauty salon Townhouse Spa & Acqua Beauty Bar in New York.

Never forget your manners

Always remember the rules of decency and manners - remember how your mother taught you? Come to the procedure on time (respect the master’s time), do not be rude, do not insult, clearly express your desires and be friendly. These simple etiquette rules will make you a welcome guest in any beauty salon . “If you need at least 15 minutes to choose the right color for your manicure, please come 15 minutes earlier - this will be very pleasant for both the master and you, because your manicure will be ready on time”, says Jamie Anne.

Remember about

Large beauty salons are on Ann's black list. “As a rule, in such salons it is not possible to carry out high-quality disinfection between clients, so specialists must use disposable accessories. Wooden sticks, buffs and other disposable tools should always be thrown away after each client.", says Ann. If you notice that the master uses an already used accessory or does not throw it away after your manicure, make a comment. To always be sure that your manicure gadgets are clean, carry all disposable items with you.

Don't be too sociable

“Familiarity” is not in fashion now =) Avoid talking too loudly about your family, children, business or work, the same goes for expressive telephone speeches. Remember, not everyone is interested in whether your child has eaten, or what Masha’s new shoes from the marketing department look like. If you really can’t wait to chat with a friend or someone else, use Viber or Messanger.

Say no to acrylic nails

It's not news that acrylic extensions have long been out of fashion, and also have a very negative effect on the condition of nails. “I always advise my clients to avoid acrylic nails. This is traumatic for the nail plate and cuticle. If you want a long-lasting manicure, do Shellac or Minx. Today this is the best solution for busy and hyperactive girls. And it’s cheaper", advises Ann.

Avoid old trends

The beauty industry does not stand still - literally every day a lot of new nail art appears, as well as one that you can take note of. Anne advises sending “a French manicure with thick white stripes and a pink base” to the garden, as well as “long stilletto nails” if you don’t want to inadvertently prick your eyes. Just a joke, of course! But still, avoid outdated manicure options, always be in trend, experiment and don’t be shy to share your art on Instagram!

Master's workplace

In fact, we are taught not to greet people by their clothes - the first impression, they say, is deceiving. In beauty salons it is better to forget about this rule. On the contrary, take a closer look at the design of the space - how new and clean is everything? The type of your craftsman’s workplace is especially important. Look to see if there is dust on the table, whether the napkin on it was changed after the previous client, is the trash can closed (a lid is needed to prevent the spread of bacteria)? If at least one of these conditions is not met, there is reason to be wary.

Manicure tools

It is advisable that all the tools the master uses are iron - these are easier to disinfect. A sealed bag with sterile instruments should be opened in your presence, but this action in itself does not guarantee that the iron tweezers that the master will now use were not simply placed in the bag, without disinfection, before your arrival. Clarify the situation. If a wound is treated with such a tool (for example, at the site of an unsuccessfully removed burr), there is a risk of contracting an infection. Fungus is the most harmless of the possible options.

It is advisable that tools made of porous materials (files, orange sticks, buffs for polishing nails) be disposable. Particles of the stratum corneum of the skin may remain on them.

Pedicure baths

They must be disinfected for 15 minutes before a new client sits in the pedicure chair. The surface of the baths can be a breeding ground for bacteria, which is especially dangerous if the skin on your feet is damaged. Some salons get around the situation by covering the bathtubs with film and filling them with water on top of it. This option is one of the safest. If there is no film and you don’t see any traces of disinfection, ask the specialist to clean the bath.

Working with the cuticle

Pay attention not only to the condition of the equipment used in the salon, but also to the actions of the master. In particular, his work with cuticles can tell a lot about his professionalism. It cannot be cut! The cuticle protects the root of the nails from the penetration of bacteria. The specialist needs to use a special remover to soften the cuticle and remove its dead cells. This, naturally, takes some time. It takes less to cut the cuticle. Technicians turn to this procedure to speed up the process, get your manicure done, and move on to the next client.

Degreasing nails

Before using varnish or shellac, nail technicians usually degrease their nails. They don't work properly, however, if they do it with acetone: it doesn't dissolve or wash away the oils! They remain on the nail, which is why the color coating does not last as long as we would like. It is better to degrease your nails with antibacterial soap or a special composition.

Removing shellac

The permanent coating must be removed using nail polish remover. Pieces of cotton wool are moistened with it, applied to the nails, the fingers are wrapped in foil and left in this state for 10-30 minutes. During this time, the shellac softens and can be easily removed with an orange stick. If the master begins to scrape off the shellac with metal tools or file it off, injuring the nail plate, stop him.

Manicure (translated from Latin as “hand care”) is a set of measures for caring for nails and fingers.

Includes removing cuticles, shaping nails, possibly varnishing.

Manicure happens:

Other types of manicure are based on the above and differ in the way they apply varnish to the nails.

Classic manicure - universal, allows you to achieve a good effect after the first procedure. The rest have a gradual effect.

Can pregnant women get a manicure?

Manicure is not contraindicated for pregnant women. On the contrary, a woman who looks good can more easily tolerate mood changes caused by hormonal changes in the body.

It is better not to do a manicure that involves cutting the cuticle to eliminate the risk of infection.

It is important to choose the right place for the procedure: at home or with a professional. You should only contact trusted salons and experienced specialists.

It is important to take precautions so as not to harm the baby.

Dangerous manicure - program “About the Most Important Thing”

Let's talk about pedicure

Pedicure is a set of measures to care for your toes.. Typically involves polishing nails, shaping and coloring them, removing calluses, softening the skin on the feet, feet and other procedures.

Types of pedicure:

1. Classical.
2. Hardware.
3. European.
4. SPA pedicure.
5. Combined. Combines hardware and classic.

Types of pedicure are similar to types of manicure with the same name.

Can pregnant women get a pedicure?

Pedicures can be done during pregnancy. It is better to give preference to the unedged form or do it at home. In the later stages, you can ask your husband to help with a pedicure.

Foot baths are provided during the pedicure, but water should not be higher than 50 degrees. Because hot feet can provoke. In addition, they cause a rush of blood to the legs, which provokes weakness and loss of consciousness.

And in case of calluses, pedicure is indispensable. A competent master can easily cope with this problem, as well as with ingrown nails. The main thing is to choose a good specialist.

Necessarily notify the specialist about pregnancy.

Precautionary measures

Due to the similarity of manicure and pedicure procedures, one can consider general precautions.

It is advisable for a pregnant woman's nails to be short, especially in later stages. Also, you should not cover your nails with polish all the time.

By the appearance of nails you can understand what is missing in a pregnant woman’s body. For example, white spots on the nails indicate a deficiency in the body, and brittle nails indicate poor absorption.

Nails during pregnancy especially need protection and care. This is due to a lack of calcium and other trace elements in the body.

Manicure and pedicure will help make your hands and feet beautiful and well-groomed. The main thing is to choose the right place for the procedures, use non-toxic, hypoallergenic products, and carry out unedged types.

The most gentle types of nail care - European and SPA. It is imperative to warn the specialist about pregnancy in order to select only safe products.