Modern men's camisole. A camisole is an element of a costume

A camisole is an element of a costume, most often for men, but it also happens in national dresses for women. It has some characteristic details - a certain length, the presence of frequent buttons, a narrow cut at the waist, implying that it must be worn under outerwear, and the absence of sleeves. And if they are present, then only in winter clothing.

Required detail

We can safely say that a camisole is a prototype of a vest. It was always worn over an undershirt, thus giving the suit formality and severity.

Very often, a camisole together with a caftan formed a single whole, that is, a costume in which the camisole was always shorter than the caftan. In this case, the pair were made of the same material, trimmed with the same braids, silver braid or canvas. But the caftan, unlike the camisole, could be of any cut and style - trapezoidal, straight-backed, with or without wedges.

Traditional cut

If the caftan was made fitted and followed the contours of the figure, then it was called justocor (exactly according to the body). But a camisole is a costume detail that has always been sewn at the waist. Perhaps it would have disappeared from the likes of women's ruffled collars, but interest in them arose thanks to cinema, which mercilessly exploits that time period when camisoles were an integral part of a man's suit. And duels with swords were fought in camisoles or shirts (depending on what the main character looks more impressive in). A modern viewer can appreciate the beauty and sophistication of medieval outfits, especially since a man’s camisole made of brocade or velvet, embroidered, for example, with canitel (thin wires of silver and gold) looked very impressive.

Originally from Paris

Of course, the camisole, along with many things, came to us in Russia through a cut window into Europe.

The most ardent pro-Westerner instilled - sometimes by personal example, sometimes by force - a love for European fashion. And already in Russia, the camisole acquired national features, mainly in decoration, as it began to be embroidered by church gold seamstresses. And then he stepped further, beyond the Urals, and here he was so loved by the indigenous population that he harmoniously became part of the national costume among some nationalities. It can be stated that a camisole is a detail of national, often both men's and women's, costumes of Tatars, Kazakhs, Uzbeks, Bashkirs, Georgians and some others.

Russified foreigner

Appearing in Russia at the beginning of the 18th century, the camisole became an integral part of a men's suit. It was of two types - with and without sleeves. It was always worn under a swing caftan. Depending on fashion, it could have a blind clasp at the throat. At the end of the 18th century, this piece of clothing went out of fashion. Since the camisole belonged to the reign of Catherine the Great, and the arts flourished at that time, many portraits of dignitaries and rich people, captured by artists, remained. In the minds of subsequent generations, the camisole and wig became an integral part and symbol of the reign of Peter I, and the brilliant Catherine’s century. In these times, a camisole was a mandatory component of the uniform of the Russian army, police and civil departments.

Origin of the term

The very word “camisole” goes back to ancient times, when in Ancient Rome the shirt was called camisia. But as a piece of clothing, it appeared on the fashion horizon of France only in the 17th century. And, although in the 16th century there was a certain variation of it - tunics, they were only tied at the waist.

The tunic was much shorter, with a stand-up collar, double sleeves (the pair just dangled unnecessarily) and overlays at the top of the sleeve armhole, which, according to the couturier, imparted the necessary masculinity. We can conclude that the most characteristic feature of a camisole is the obligatory cut at the waist. This piece of clothing is so good that even now the camisole is appropriate for some gala evening, to say nothing of carnivals and balls.

Modern features

The camisole, the pattern of which is attached, is absolutely not difficult to make. Moreover, the step-by-step cutting of camisoles for every taste is widely available and the tailoring is shown in more detail. In addition, there are many tips on finishing the finished product, indicating how you can make a unique thing from store fittings. And if you choose the classic sleeveless option, then making a camisole with your own hands is not at all difficult. Moreover, the accessories are now so good and varied that lining a camisole with ready-made braid and braid will look no less impressive than the medieval one.

Camisole - men's clothing, with a fitted cut, just above the knees. In Russia, it was worn under Peter I, when, by decree of the emperor, Russian nobles were required to wear European dress.

The camisole was worn paired with a caftan. These two items of clothing are often confused, usually calling the caftan a camisole, although this is not at all the case. First, a shirt was put on, then a camisole, and on top of the camisole - a caftan. Therefore, the camisole was slightly shorter and much narrower than the caftan. Initially it had long and narrow sleeves, but gradually the sleeves disappeared and the camisole was transformed into a vest.

The caftan was knee-length, also narrow at the waist, with slits in the center of the back and in the side seams, which increased the width of the fronts and created ease of movement, especially while riding. The sleeves had wide cuffs, decorated with loops, buttons, and embroidery. The caftan was always worn unbuttoned, so that the front part of the camisole was visible, which for this reason was richly decorated.

Camisoles were made from expensive luxurious fabric, decorated with lace, embroidery, chenille (fluffy lace) or other trim. However, the invisible parts of the camisole - the sleeves and back - were made of less expensive fabric. This entire outfit, in addition to stockings and shoes with buckles and bows, was complemented by a lace frill and cuffs.

However, camisoles were worn not only by men of the 17th – 18th centuries; they have long been found in women’s national costumes of the peoples of Asia. The skill of the people, beauty and perfection were embodied in the costumes of Kazakh, Tatar and Bashkir women.

Costumes can tell us a lot about a person, about his character, social status, age and aesthetic tastes. It is in them that the camisole harmoniously combines with the dress. Camisoles were made from velvet, brocade and other bright and expensive fabrics. Festive camisoles were decorated with rich embroidery with gold and silver threads, fur and even coins.

What does a camisole look like in modern fashion? We mainly encounter the vest, which is its descendant. However, even today, famous designers, recalling the bright past of camisoles and caftans, have embodied their ideas in new collections, where these two types of clothing are trying to make up for lost time. How successful this was is up to you to judge.

Thank you for the article and attention to our brand.

We are glad to present to your attention ancient and modern kaftans. Kaftan- this is part of the men's wardrobe not only from the past, but, we hope, from the future of the Russian man. A caftan can be formal or casual, fitted or loose-fitting; a caftan can be a “half-caftan” or a “caftan” shirt; it would be appropriate to wear it both at home and at a party.

The caftan can be decorated with openwork embroidery with rope, stones, pearls... it can be fastened with fabric or jewelry clasps made of filigree with bright enamel... The caftan can be bright and festive, with a double trumpet collar, or it can be with a classic, modern and very stylish turn-down collar .

Yes Yes! Exactly modern! In winter, why not wear a well-tailored cropped caftan made of the finest Italian wool, lined with silk, with beautiful trim and expensive buttons? After all, for centuries Russian men were not afraid of expensive and beautiful Russian suits! Why should this change today? Who said that a Russian man is obliged to wear a slave tie and a Western-style suit? Who decided that our Russian men's suit is not fashionable and not suitable for modern life?

Any element of a traditional Russian costume can be created according to individual patterns, changed to suit the modern rhythm of life, sewn from the best and most modern materials, using the latest technologies and accessories! And in beauty and quality it will surpass any Western suit, because for a Russian man there is nothing more suitable, appropriate and harmonious than a Russian suit.

BLACK SATIN JAMIZE

An inventory compiled after Moliere's death tells of the contents of the box in which Harpagon's costume was kept: “Cloak, trousers and camisole of black satin, decorated with black silk lace, hat, wig, shoes...”

In 1966, after staging “The Miser” in the courtyard of the Rohan Hotel in Paris, Jean Vilar, not without coquetry, donned a suit, down to the last detail similar to what Moliere wore on the day of the premiere. An actor's whim, nothing more. But what amazed me and touched me to the depths of my soul was that this incomprehensible man managed in some devilish way to adopt Moliere’s movements and insinuating smile from Simonen’s engraving and stick to them throughout the three acts of “The Miser.” Such self-denial is worth mentioning. It is in such things that an actor shows what he is capable of and reveals his true greatness. I no longer noticed that the text was cruel, that Harpagon was a monster, that bitterness was hidden behind the laughter. And only later, reflecting on Vilar’s ​​performance, I thought that Moliere, with his charm, must have softened the mercilessness of other scenes.

AMERICA FROM THE BACK WAY G. Sechkin (TRAVEL NOTES)

The Taste of Black Bread Samantha was an ordinary girl. And her marks were ordinary. That's what she said about her marks - ordinary. And she loved to play simple childish games. And of course, there was a dog next to her. Samantha was a girl, and her main human