Which razor to use for shading in men's haircuts. Hair cutting techniques

30.06.2020

School of hairdressing by Vlad Garamov. Hairdresser training. Hairdressing courses. How to do shading correctly?
Shading is the most important technique in short male forms. It takes up most of the time of a haircut and the quality of the haircut itself depends on the quality of the hairdresser's shading. If you can’t get a readable weight line, you end up with shading thresholds - watch this video, maybe you’re doing something wrong in the first place? Of course, the stew needs to train long and hard, because... the skill does not come by itself.
In this video from a hairdressing master class, Vlad will show you basic exercises for improving your shading skills. Good luck to you in conquering new hairdressing heights!

00:29 How a brush should work
01:15 Head position when shading
02:05 Movement of the comb when shading
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Video Training for Hairdressers. How to learn to do shading? Vlad Garamov channel Center for training and advanced training of hairdressers Vlad Garamov

This hairdressing term, as well as hair reduction, refers to a haircut technique that achieves a smooth transition from long hair on the crown and back of the head to shorter hair in the temples and neck. The only thing is that shading, unlike reducing hair to nothing, requires more careful execution. This technique can be performed with a machine and scissors.

Scissors. Take a long, fine-toothed comb in your left hand so that your index finger is on the teeth and your thumb is holding the comb underneath. Insert the comb under the hair on your neck, gripping it with the teeth so that your index finger is on the teeth and your thumb is holding the comb underneath. Insert the comb under the hair on your neck, grabbing the hair along the contour line of the back of your head with its teeth. Only after this is the comb slightly turned towards itself: its plane should be at an acute angle to the surface of the treated area of hair. The shorter the haircut, the closer the comb should be held to the scalp (i.e., the smaller the mentioned angle should be).

When processing the right side line of the back of the head, point the ends of the scissors to the right and cut the hair with the ends of the scissors - it’s more convenient. In this case, the blades of the scissors are not positioned strictly parallel to the plane of the comb, but at a slight angle to it. It is more convenient to process the hair of the left side line of the back of the head, as well as the right one, with the ends of the scissors, however, they should be directed to the left, and the blades should be located parallel to the plane of the comb. Very short hair can only be trimmed with the ends of scissors and the ends of the teeth of a comb.

Shading hair with a machine

Shading, or phasing out, is the gradual cutting of hair growing along the edge of the growth.

When shading, follow the following sequence of execution; start shading from the middle of the neck, continue to the right side, end on the left side.

The hairdresser is obliged to follow the following rules when cutting: stand directly opposite the place that is being cut; work with half-bent arms; bend your body forward and keep your head straight; When shading the neck, ask the client to bend his head down. To give the head the desired position, you are allowed to touch it with only two fingers; Shading is performed with a hair clipper, scissors and a razor.

The hairline is the line below which hair does not grow. On the head, this line runs from the forehead to the temples, behind the ears and on the neck. Hair growing at the edge of this line (except for the forehead) is reduced to nothing, that is, shaded. This means that at the very edge of growth, the hair is left as short as cutting with a machine or scissors allows. Above the growth edge, the hair is left longer. The result should be an even, correct shading.

You should also remember that the hairline is not straight, but curved. These convolutions are called: the frontal protrusion, a place in the middle of the forehead; on both sides of the frontal prominence there are two frontal depressions (right and left), and behind them there are two temporal protrusions.

More often, shading of the head begins with the neck. Shading is usually continued from the neck to the right. In this case, the right or left side is considered to be the distance from the neck behind the ear to the temple. Having finished shading on the right, the master shades the left side; starting from the neck, continues behind the left ear and ends at the left temple. The haircut (shading) of each side has its own characteristics, which are listed below.

Shading hair with a machine

Usually it starts from the neck. You should pay attention to the fact that the machine must be installed on the neck with the teeth at the edge of hair growth or slightly lower. When cutting hair on the neck, the position of the clipper is unstable. This may cause pain. To create a stop, use the index or middle finger of your left hand to hold the machine on the side of the bottom plate.

Having installed the machine at the beginning of hair growth, the master sets it in motion. Squeezing and unclenching the handles with the fingers of the right hand, slowly moves the machine up to the top of the head. First, the sparsely growing hair on the neck will be cut off. As soon as the machine begins to capture thicker hair, its teeth must be gradually separated from the skin towards themselves. It may happen that the hair in front of the clipper has not yet been cut, but the clipper has already been taken away from the head. In this case, it is necessary to continue cutting on weight until all the hair raised by the clipper has been cut.

Hair is trimmed (shaded) depending on the shape of the head and the required haircut to a predetermined height (line). This height is determined by the occipital protuberance.

If the haircut is short, then shade it above the occipital protuberance, and vice versa. Depending on the style of the haircut, the hair is shaded around the ears. If you leave long hair when cutting, then shade the hair at the level of the earlobes. This rule applies to shading hair on the neck. On the sides, behind the ears, they are applied to an area of 1-2 cm from the edge of hair growth in this place. On the temples, shading is applied to the level of shading above the ear.

Moving on to cutting the right side, behind the right ear, trying to shade the hair here along the edge of its growth, you should not grab a lot of hair with the clipper. Therefore, the machine is installed sideways so as not to catch the hair further than the edge. To do this, the right side of the machine is pressed to the place of the head where there is no hair, and its left side is moved away from the head and hair. With this position of the machine, the hair is extinguished to the very top of the ear, i.e. to the place where the hair changes the direction of growth - now it grows towards the face.

The machine is placed flat on the temple and, moving it upward, the teeth of the machine are gradually removed from the head, as they did on the neck. The shaded line of the temples should coincide with the shaded hair above the ear.

When shading the hair on the left side, the same rules apply as when shading on the right side. The difference is that when shading the left temple, the master stands to the left of the client.

You cannot demand that the shading be achieved immediately after the first haircut. Hair in the same place is cut several times, correcting areas that were not cut or missed by the clipper.

The second time you need to drive the machine over the same place very carefully so as not to disturb the shading that has already been done. In this case, first grab the hair with a comb, and cut the hair with a machine on top of the comb. This can be done after finishing shading around the head or repeating the shading.

Shading hair with scissors

Shading hair with scissors is much more difficult than shading with a machine, and therefore hairdressers often use a machine.

Scissors are used in cases where the client's head is of irregular shape or has physical defects that need to be hidden by a haircut, leaving more or less hair on the head. If there are small bald spots on the head, then it is better to cover them with hair and, conversely, if there are bulges (bumps) on the head, then it is better to cut the hair shorter.

Rules for shading with scissors

At the beginning of hair growth, in the middle of the neck, set the fine teeth of a comb flat. At the level of the comb teeth, set the blades of the scissors no further than the screw, holding the scissors with the first move.

The scissors are often clenched and unclenched and the comb is slowly guided. This continues until the predetermined line. Gradually separate the teeth of the comb from the head and in this position move the comb forward upward until the hair falls out of the comb. Comb the hair down with a comb in order to repeat the haircut of the same strip.

Having finished cutting the hair in the middle of the neck, begin cutting the hair on the right side. In the lower part of the neck, not far from the earlobe and further behind the ear, shading is carried out using a comb and scissors in the second method.

Then the left side is extinguished, starting from the middle of the neck. Following the rules, cut the hair to the middle of the ear, grabbing it with a comb obliquely in the direction of hair growth.

The comb is held first by the rare teeth, the frequent teeth are placed in the middle of the neck so that the comb teeth grab the hair at the beginning of its growth.

The hair is cut with a comb, so it catches all the hair growing along the edge. In accordance with the rules, scissors are installed with blades on top of the comb. At the edge of growth, hair is cut only with the ends of scissors. This is done in order to cut the hair as short as possible at the beginning of growth, and the thickness of the teeth of the comb and scissors does not allow this. Hair can be cut short only if it is cut with the ends of scissors and the ends of the teeth of a comb.

It is necessary to squeeze the scissors as often as possible - this is an important condition for an even haircut without sharp cuts. If you move the comb quickly and cut slowly with the scissors, not all the hair caught by the comb will be cut, which means that the cut will turn out to be steps (ladders), and not gradual, smooth, as it should be.

In addition, stairs are obtained when a thick layer of hair is captured; you need to cut, grabbing thin strands. As with shading with a machine, it is necessary to determine in advance the line to which the hair is cut (shaded) with scissors. It is best to cut the hair of the head in two steps: shade the hair along the edge of the growth and cut with scissors above the shade. You can first shade your hair along the edge of its growth, and then continue cutting the intended strip above the shade to the crown without interruption.

The line to which the hair is shaded will pass either above the occipital protuberance (with a short haircut) or below the protuberance (with a long haircut). Having first placed the comb close to the head, cut the hair at the beginning of growth, leaving it as short as possible. As soon as the first hair is cut approximately 1 - 3 mm from the beginning of its growth, separate the teeth from the head and continue cutting already in the middle of the comb, capturing more hair.

Then grab even more hair with the comb. If they are long, then place a comb under the hair and continue cutting at the edge. This position of the comb should be repeated all the time. Failure to follow this rule will result in the hair being cut unevenly, creating so-called undercuts.

Another important rule; As soon as the comb has moved approximately 1 - 2 mm upward, the teeth of the comb must be gradually moved away from the head, and the higher the comb moves, the further it must be moved. At a distance of 1 - 2 cm from the beginning of hair growth, the comb no longer touches the head, it is held suspended and in this position the hair continues to be cut from above the comb. The correct shape of a haircut depends most on the position of the comb, which regulates the amount of hair that should be cut. Therefore, the comb should be held firmly on the strip that is being cut, and the hair should be cut until the hair falls out of the comb.

Even an experienced hairdresser will not immediately cut your hair to the desired length. Most often, he repeats cutting the same strip several times. The first time, the master cuts less hair, then combs the cut strip down and if the length of the hair does not correspond to that required for the intended haircut, then repeats the cut of the same strip until the desired length is achieved. It is recommended to cut your hair, shortening it gradually, rather than trying to cut off a lot of hair at once.

There may be several stripes of haircut on the neck: one in the middle, and the rest on the sides. Each of these stripes must be cut separately, and if the first middle strip is cut, then when cutting the adjacent strip, part of the hair of the cut strip is captured and the hair of the adjacent strip is cut at their level. After shading the neck, it is recommended to start cutting the right side.

First, the hair is cut on the right side of the neck, behind the ear. Here the second method of positioning the comb and scissors is used, which is as follows. The comb is held with the left hand by the end of the rare side (two fingers - index and middle - on the outside, and the thumb on the inside). The scissors are held according to the rules, then they are turned upside down, that is, the hand is held from below and the scissors from above (the thumb of the right hand will go into the upper ring, and the whole hand holds the scissors from below.

With this method, the comb and scissors are on one side, and the ends of the scissors are cut at the ends of the comb. This technique is used when cutting hair behind the ear, so as not to pinch the shell of the ear with the rings of the scissors.

When shading the edge of the hair behind the right ear, you need to grab the hair with the end of the wide side of the comb and press this end to the head, and move the rest of the comb away from the skin enough to cut the hair in an area no more than 1 - 2 cm from the edge of the growth.

Hold the comb and scissors in the second way, cut the hair to the very top of the ear, i.e. to the place where the hair changes its direction and grows towards the face. After cutting the ends of the hair behind the ear, you can start cutting the hair above the ear by holding the scissors and comb in the first way.

The shading behind the left ear should look the same as the shading behind the right ear. However, their implementation is different. Behind the left ear it is inconvenient to grab the hair growing along the edge of the growth. Here you need to place the comb obliquely in the direction of hair growth so that one end of the comb, which the master holds with his left hand, is on top of the ear, and the other, which grabs the hair, is below. The lower end of the comb grabs the ends of the hair, and with scissors (holding them in the first way) they cut with a feather, i.e., no further than 1 - 2 cm from the edge of growth, gradually separating the teeth of the comb from the head.

To trim the hair on the temple, the master comes to the left of the client, stands facing him and, grabbing the temple hair and holding a comb and scissors in the second way, blends the temple hair to the level of the shaded hair above the ear. Then the master bends the shell of the ear down with a comb or hand, picks up the uncut hair from above the ear with the comb and cuts it.

Correct and beautiful shading is considered to be one that has a strictly consistent length of hair left.

You can check the correctness of the shading: use a comb to grab the hair in different places of the shading. If it turns out that the height of the cut hair is the same everywhere, then the shading is done correctly.

graduation shading hair thinning

Shading can be considered the final stage, finishing the method of reducing hair “to nothing” to a perfectly smooth polished surface. Its goal is to ensure a smooth transition from long to short hair, to create the effect of “varnished” hair.

Performing a reception

The technique here is the same as when reducing hair “to nothing” with straight and thinning scissors and a razor. The difference lies in more careful elaboration.

To perform this technique, it is better to take a comb with very fine teeth and work with the tips of scissors. The scissors should be held slightly diagonally in relation to the comb.

If the technique is performed with a razor, then the latter should be very sharp.

When performing shading near the neck, you can resort to the “cutting” method.

It is done this way. Insert the comb from below into the hair on your neck and lift it perpendicular to your head. Using a very sharp razor, the blade of which should be at a slight (15-20°) angle to the comb, cut off any stray hairs. The razor should move perpendicular to the comb teeth.

Edging with a machine, razor, straight scissors

Edging is the process of creating the bottom line of a haircut's outline, as well as the line itself.

The edging, like the hairline, runs along the entire circumference of the head. Nevertheless, the word “edging” is most often followed by a clarification: edging the back of the head, edging the temples, edging the bangs.

When performing edging, the following points must be taken into account. First of all, ask the client what kind of bottom line he wants - straight, choppy, curved, with ridges. Then take a close look at the features of the client's face and neck. The edging line can help hide some flaws or, conversely, emphasize the advantages of appearance.

In addition, pay attention to whether the client has any skin defects - pigmentation disorders, scars, moles, which are also better hidden under hair.

It is also very important to consider the direction of natural hair growth.

And if, for example, the hair on the back of a person’s head curls or grows upward, and you have raised the edging line, no matter how hard you try, you won’t get a beautiful straight line.

In some haircuts, the edging is done at the beginning of the work - for example, in a bob - since it is the main formative element of the haircut.

However, in most haircuts it is still done at the end.

Performance

The edging operation requires special care.

After finishing your haircut, comb your hair in the direction it grows. You can even ask the client to shake his head slightly. Are you happy with what you see? Does your hair lie nicely? Is it possible to admire the smooth and beautiful cut line? Did the bangs turn out even?

If not, it means the haircut is simply not finished yet. It's time to start edging.

Most often, edging is done with scissors, which are drawn along the intended line.

The hair is cut off at the ends. In this case, the working blade of the scissors rests on the hair.

The scissors must be moved smoothly and not removed from the hair.

Problems of the back of the head

When edging, you may have problems with the direction of hair growth at the back of your head. In this part of the head, hair grows very individually.

For some, the growth line is high, for others it is low. Hair can grow down, up, in different directions, in one direction, or curl into a ring. All this is taken into account when choosing a haircut.

Modern fashion does not limit the imagination of the master and the client.

Another difficult aspect of a haircut is the edging of the temples. You need to pay special attention to the edging of the temples in haircuts where they are open.

Temple edging technology

When dividing hair into zones at the preparatory stage of cutting, the hair in the temporal zone is almost always highlighted.

The length of the hair in the temporal zone, the order of its processing and direction are always specifically specified in the description of the haircut technology. After making the edging, comb your hair a few more times, carefully looking for strands that break the clear line.

Short hair

Edging short hair is done with straight scissors, a machine or a razor.

When performing the technique, comb your hair as often as possible so as not to miss hairs that could disrupt the intended line. Use the tips of the scissors to cut only the hair that extends onto the bare skin.

With a very short haircut, you may need to remove short hair on the neck (sometimes temples) that grows below the edging line.

A razor is used for this.

The skin is stretched with one hand, and unnecessary hair is processed with the other: first the left temple, then behind the left ear, then the right temple and behind the right ear, then the neck.

Edging with a machine requires some skill.

The hair should lie strictly perpendicular to the edging line. You need to work carefully so as not to snatch excess hair. Sequence of work: temple and line behind the ear on one side, then on the other, then the neck.

Medium length hair

Comb your hair thoroughly, press it to your head with your hand or a comb and cut it at the desired level.

To make the haircut symmetrical, when edging, check the length of the strands either by bringing them together, or by focusing on some details of the face: ears, nose, etc.

Long hair

Edging long hair is done by hand, capturing part of the hair from previously cut strands.

This hairdressing term, as well as hair reduction, refers to a haircutting technique that achieves a smooth transition from long hair on the crown and back of the head to shorter hair in the temples and neck. The only thing is that shading, unlike reducing hair to nothing, requires more careful execution. This technique can be performed with a machine and scissors.

Scissors. Take a long, fine-toothed comb in your left hand so that your index finger is on the teeth and your thumb is holding the comb underneath. Insert the comb under the hair on your neck, gripping it with the teeth so that your index finger is on the teeth and your thumb is holding the comb underneath. Insert the comb under the hair on your neck, grabbing the hair along the contour line of the back of your head with its teeth. Only after this is the comb slightly turned towards itself: its plane should be at an acute angle to the surface of the treated area of hair. The shorter the haircut, the closer the comb should be held to the scalp (i.e., the smaller the mentioned angle should be).

Move the comb up, against the hair growth, and use scissors to cut the hair picked up by the comb. In this case, the blades of the scissors should be parallel to the plane of the comb. The scissors and comb move upward simultaneously (Fig. 3). When processing the right side line of the back of the head, point the ends of the scissors to the right and cut the hair with the ends of the scissors - it’s more convenient. In this case, the blades of the scissors are not positioned strictly parallel to the plane of the comb, but at a slight angle to it (Fig. 3). It is more convenient to process the hair of the left side line of the back of the head, as well as the right one, with the ends of the scissors, however, they should be directed to the left, and the blades should be located parallel to the plane of the comb. Very short hair can only be trimmed with the ends of scissors and the ends of the teeth of a comb.

It often happens that when doing eye makeup in a master class or on their own, girls are faced with the fact that they do not know how to hold the brush correctly and in which direction to blend out the shadows. In this master class we will look at several types of shadow shading and how to apply them correctly with various brushes.

To work with shadows you will need the following brushes:

small, flat, tongue-shaped;
medium flat for shading shadows;
fluffy brush;
large flat brush.

The key to high-quality shading is not only highly pigmented shadows and brushes with natural bristles, but also prepared skin for applying makeup.

First of all, we cleanse the entire face and tone it. Don't forget about dark circles under your eyes, as your makeup can look sloppy if they aren't removed.

Also responsible for the neatness of makeup is the eyebrow, which is a kind of frame. Bring it as close as possible to the color of your hair and give it the correct shape.

Finally, apply an eyeshadow base to your eyelid and let it absorb a little. After this, go over very lightly with a brush with tone, applying a transparent invisible layer. Fix the surface with shadows to match the skin color on both the upper and lower eyelids.

For example, let’s take the shading of a pencil detail, since further shading of the shadows will be the same.

Since the pencil has a greasy texture, it is best to use a good quality synthetic brush or one with mixed bristles. The brush should be of such a size that it is convenient for you to make short and quick movements. Ideally, it will be in the shape of a tongue.

Basically, according to the direction, all shadings are divided into three sides. First of all, this is shading of the arrow along the upper eyelid. If it goes to the middle of the eyelid or to the inner corner, we still try to blend it in one direction at the beginning. Only at the corner of the eye you need to change direction, which you will understand on your own when doing this kind of makeup.

We blend this arrow towards the lower corner of the eyebrow head. The bristles of the brush should almost lie on the eyelid. We grab the end of the part with a brush, retreating inward about 2-3 mm. Remember to constantly add pencil or shadow to your brush for depth of color. We achieve a smooth transition. The shading should completely follow the shape of the part. That is, you need to follow all the lines.

We perform shading throughout the entire part in the same way, only we change the direction. Along the lower eyelid, smudge the pencil towards the earlobe. Along the upper eyelid towards the temple. We follow the shading rules that were described for the arrow. By following the original shape and sticking to all the lines, you will see how the shading lines will connect to form a beautiful petal.

There is an important rule that will help you in shading shadows: we do not blend shadows on oily textures, they need to be initially coated dry, and then worked on their surface. This also applies to a pencil. Using a fluffy brush, apply the base shade of eyeshadow throughout the entire shade.

Now you can safely apply shadows of the desired color. For example, we will apply a light brown shade over the shading, and an even deeper darker brown. We apply a black shade even deeper if the makeup requires it. The technique for shading shadows is the same as for shading a pencil, only with a new darker color we go deeper all the time.

An excellent assistant in this matter is a fluffy brush. It can be used to very quickly shade shadows along the upper fold, only repeating its shape.

Also, if your shading was not entirely successful and the edge turned out to be a little sharp, then with such a brush you can shade the edge in the right direction without damaging the makeup. You just need to put some neutral shadows on it. You can also decorate the corner of the eye by using a fluffy, but denser brush.

One more little tip. In order to make up the apple, loose or regular shadows are used. It is best to apply them with a flat, wide brush, without blending, but simply slapping.