How to weave a bead from beads. Pearl beads made from woven beads (master class)

For one bead we need:

• round beads 8 mm 4 pieces;
• round beads 6 mm 8 pieces;
• faceted beads (or round) 3 mm 12 pieces, round beads 8/0 are also suitable;
• round beads 11/0 (cylindrical 11/0 is also possible) about 2 grams;
• fishing line 0.12 mm 1.5 meters;
• bead needles No. 12 2 pieces;
• scissors.

I took white Swarovski pearls 8 and 6 mm, faceted Czech beads 3 mm green tea, Toho beads 11/0 558.

I prefer to weave such beads with a fishing line that is quite thin. The bead on my thread does not turn out tight, and my thin fishing line broke when tightened.
We take a piece of fishing line about a meter and a half long. We thread the ends into needles on both sides. A little secret (for those who don’t know yet): the 0.12 fishing line fits a bit tightly into the 12th needle, so the ends can be cut at an angle, diagonally, so that they turn out sharp - this makes it easier to thread the fishing line into the needle.
We collect four beads: 8 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, 6 mm.

We pass the left needle into the far right bead 8 mm in the opposite direction. The ends of the fishing line need to be distributed in such a way that only 20 centimeters remain on one edge, and the rest of the length goes to the other side. We will only work with two needles at the beginning, then we will only have one working needle and thread.

Then on one side we collect one 6 mm bead and one 8 mm bead, and on the other side one 6 mm bead.

Then with the left needle we pass through the 8 mm bead in the opposite direction.

In the same way we go through another “row”. We get a simple chain.

We collect one 6 mm bead from both sides and connect it with the very first 8 mm bead.

We tighten it well. And we get this “base” - a ball.

Now the needle into which the smaller end of the thread was threaded can be removed. But we don’t remove the “tail” itself yet, we will still need it. We continue to work with the long part of the thread.
We pass along the top - through all the 6 mm beads in a circle, not forgetting to properly tighten the thread. We do this to secure the bead.

Now through one of the 8 mm beads we go out to the other side and proceed in the same way - we pass in a circle through all the 6 mm beads of the other vertex.

And we bring the working needle to the place where we have a short “tail” of thread left. We tie both ends three times, tightly.

You should end up with an almost finished bead like this. Be sure to tighten the line when weaving and tie the ends of the thread well and the bead will be strong enough.

Now let's do the braiding. Typically, such a base is braided “as you go”: each large bead is individually walked around with 8 mm bead loops, and then the ends are braided in. I did this too, but it turns out that I have to go through each bead and some beads many times, and the needle goes very poorly, the beads can burst (more than once I have unraveled almost finished beads because of this). And I also wanted small faceted beads in the tops. That’s why I came up with the idea of ​​making the braid separately, so to speak.
We have two ends of the fishing line left. We’ll leave the short one for now (they’ll come in handy later), we’ll work on the long one. In theory, it should be “dislocated” at the hole of one of the 8 mm beads. We continue to weave the braid from this very place. We will weave it separately and at the very end we will “dress” it on the workpiece.
We collect 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 2 beads.

We return through the penultimate bead and bead.

We collect 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 2 beads. And we return through the penultimate bead and bead.

We go through the very first 4 beads and the bead that we collected, as shown in the photo below.

Thus, we received the first mesh cell with which we will cover our bead. We need to weave three such cells.

Let's continue. We collect 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 2 beads. We return through the penultimate bead and bead.

We collect 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 2 beads and return through the penultimate bead and bead.

We collect 4 beads and complete the next cell by passing the needle through the beads and beads as shown in the two photos below.

We weave the third cell in the same way. It turns out we have such a mesh.

Let's try it on a bead. An image is already beginning to emerge.

We complete the mesh. We weave the last cell. To begin with, we will again collect 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 2 beads, go back through the penultimate bead and bead and collect 4 more beads.

Let's wrap the bead in the mesh again. We pass through the bead of the adjacent cell as shown in the photo below.

We received one part of the very last cell of the mesh.

Now let's complete the second part. Again we collect 4 beads, 1 bead 3 mm, 2 beads, go back through the penultimate bead and bead. We collect 4 more beads and pass through the middle bead of the adjacent cell as shown in the photo below.

We tighten it well. And we get such a “mustachioed” bead. The mesh should fit the bead quite tightly.

Now we will tighten the antennae at the tops of the beads. To begin, we bring the needle through the braid to the top of the first tendril.

Then we collect all the tops of the antennae through a bead (the top of the antennae, string the bead, the tip of the antennae, string the bead...) in a circle. We try to collect the antennae all in one direction so that they are pulled together evenly.

We go around the circle several times to better tighten the top of our braided bead.

Along the braid (our mesh) we will bring the needle to the other side of the bead, we will also go to the tip of the tendril and collect them all in the same way in a circle, through the bead. Let's pull everything together well. The bead is almost ready.

All that remains is to fasten the ends of the thread and hide and trim off the excess (to do this, I brought the thread along the braid to the very tail that we had left in free flight at the very beginning, and tied both ends of the thread, then I also brought both ends of the thread into the braid and cut off the excess ). And now our bead is ready.

You can take 6 mm and 4 mm beads, make a 15-strand braid and instead of 3 mm beads take 11/0 beads. Then the bead will be more elegant. For example, you can combine large and small beads in the same bracelet.

How to make beaded beads with your own hands?

Before you start working, you need to decide on the choice of beads and embroidery pattern. The smaller the beads, the more delicate the necklace will be. Massive elements in the form of stones can be woven into jewelry with large beads; such a necklace is more suitable for an evening event and for dresses with an open neckline.

In this material we will show you various options for weaving beads, both for beginners and “advanced” needlewomen.

Simple patterns of beaded beads

Photo: beautybiser.ru

1. The simplest option is to string beads on a thread with the addition of large stones. Collect beads, periodically adding pebbles in a chaotic manner. The beads must contain several steps. Each new row should be longer than the previous one. Having finished one thread with beads, secure it to the clasp. You can choose the number of rows yourself. You don’t have to use a lock, securing each row with a knot with the first bead. But in this option, you need to correctly measure the length of the beads so that they can be put on over your head.

Photo: syl.ru

2. Weaving with a pattern. You will need:

small beads of two colors;

large beads resembling pearls;

silk threads - they are more durable and stronger;

Following the pattern below, begin weaving the necklace. Initially measure the circumference of your neck to calculate the length of the thread.

3. Beads with the addition of bugles. The weaving is simple, just follow the diagram below.

Beaded beads: master class on weaving an airy necklace

It is called that for a reason. The necklace is light and voluminous.

For weaving you will need:

Beads of different shades, combined with each other. Preferably in different sizes.

Beads, stones.

Fishing line (not the thinnest, otherwise it won’t hold its shape, about 0.22 mm).

Headset (lock, cap, studs).

Hook 1.5 mm.

• Scissors, round nose pliers, pliers.

  Container for beads.

1. Determine the length of the product. An airy necklace requires 30-40 rows of 50 cm each. At your discretion, you can reduce or increase the number of rows, as well as their length. When you start crocheting a necklace, calculate the amount of material using the following formula: 1 m of stringed beads = 2.1-2.2 m of air thread. So for a necklace of 40 rows you will need 20 m of fishing line with stringed beads.

2. Mix the beads in a special container. Start casting on the fishing line, but do not cut the fishing line. To ensure that large beads or pebbles are distributed at the same distance, collect small elements the length of a needle, followed by one large one. Do everything by eye, you don’t need to do any special calculations.

3. Start knitting the air thread. Step back 10-15 cm from the edge of the fishing line. Make a loop (0.5 - 1 cm) using your fingers or a hook, thread the hook through it and pull out the fishing line. This is the first loop. Make a few more empty loops, this will make it easier to regulate the tension of the fishing line.

4. Start weaving beads. Grab 1 bead or stone into each loop; you can alternate with 1 empty loop. This is how you need to tie the entire thread with beads. To prevent the necklace from unraveling, you need to pull the fishing line completely out of the last loop, leaving 10-15 cm.

5. Let's start assembling the decoration. Take thick cardboard into which you insert pins to distribute the air thread. Using a centimeter, measure the distance from the first pin to the second at 45 cm, you can choose a different distance, depending on your wishes (make a necklace under the neck or lower it slightly). You can make several rows at different lengths from each other, increasing the distance. Hook the entire air thread onto the pins. Be sure to pull the tail of the line through the last loop, otherwise the thread will begin to unravel.

6. Take a fishing line 15-20 cm long, thread it through a needle and start collecting each row of air thread. Tie a few knots.

braided beads

A couple of years ago I was actively promoting my German-language blog nataliesperlen.blogspot.com/ for this I took part in all sorts of “bead-related” Internet projects, in one of them I had to weave beaded tassel pendants. I got these “Seasons” keychains

After publishing their photos on the blog, I began to receive a huge number of letters with questions about how to weave a “green bead with flowers” ​​in the “Summer” keychain.

I had to write a master class on this topic

To weave beads with flowers we will need:
round green beads 6 mm
white and yellow beads No. 10 (approximately 2.4 mm)
bead needle No. 12
fishing line with a diameter of 0.25 mm

We cut a piece of fishing line 1 m long, collect 5 white beads, move them to the middle of the fishing line and close them into a ring as in photo 1.
Now important to remember- in each weaving step we put a new bead on the right end of the fishing line, we weave the left end of the fishing line in each step first into the beads of the previous row (in the next photos you will see which ones), and then we weave it towards the last of the beads collected on the right fishing line
to write weaving I will use the following abbreviations:
green beads - green, white beads - white, yellow beads - yellow,
the right end of the fishing line is right, the left end of the fishing line is left.
All photos are clickable, the first click opens a medium-sized photo, the second click opens a maximum-sized photo.

Then in the 3rd step we type on the right line. 2 white, left l. weave in two white. previous row

We repeat the 2nd and 3rd steps in turn four times, how to close the row is shown in photo 13, the beginning of a new row (1st step) in photo 14

The next steps of this row (2nd and 3rd) will again alternate in a circle four times:
in the 2nd step on pr.l. dial 3 white, left l. weave into one white. previous row, see photo 15
in the 3rd step we dial 1 green + 1 white, left l. weave in white and green beads from the previous row, see photo 16

We close the row - left.l. weave in two white sheets, on a straight sheet. we dial 2 whites, as in photos 17 and 18, weave the ends of the fishing line towards each other through the second of the dialed whites. beads

At this stage, you can put a large bead inside the ball, I wove it without it, the shape of the bead also held normally, the green beads rest against each other inside the ball, but with an additional bead inside the design is more dense

1st step of the last row - on the right side. dial 1 green + 1 white + 1 green, left l. goes to green and white previous row, see photo 19
Step 2 - weave in 1 white + 1 green. three times in a circle, see photo 20
last step - left.l. weave in white, green, white, green, on the other sheet. We dial only one white. (photo 21), after this you must pass one of the ends of the fishing line (any) along five white beads, fastening them together into a ring (in photo 22 I painted the fishing line in this ring with green color)

The remaining ends of the fishing line can be woven into rings of white beads, adding 1 yellow bead in the middle; from ring to ring, the fishing line must be woven inside the beads, following the weaving pattern; it is more convenient to do this if the end of the fishing line is flattened with your teeth and inserted into a bead needle. When we finish the work, the ends of the fishing line must be tied in knots and tightened into beads (it is advisable to repeat this several times), then pull the ends of the fishing line tightly and cut off as close to the work as possible.

If you want to make a keychain out of a ball, then you can leave two rings of white beads (at opposite ends of the ball) without yellow centers; in these places you can weave a ring for a pendant and tassels to the ball

Braided beads are one of the most practical beading techniques. If you know how to braid beads, you can always decorate any product with beads that perfectly match it in color and size. In addition, braided beads look great on their own - multi-colored, plain, with various patterns, embroidered, etc.

All pictures are clickable (enlarge when clicked)

To learn how to weave beads with mosaic weaving, we will need:

Beads No. 10 in 2 colors (in our example we used light and dark green Czech beads)
Bead with a diameter of 8 mm
Fishing line or thread of a suitable color (matching the color of the bead)
Beading needle
Pin and piece of eraser

The procedure for braiding beads with a diameter of 8 mm using beads No. 10 using the mosaic weaving technique:

1. Weave the first row:

To do this, collect 4 dark beads and close them in a ring, tying them with 2 knots (leave the free end of the fishing line about 10 cm):

Pull the needle through the first bead:

The first row is ready - there are 4 beads in it.

2. Weave the second row:

2.1. Cast on 1 light bead and bring the needle through the second bead of the first row:

2.2. Cast on 1 light bead again and bring the needle through the third bead of the first row:

2.3. Cast on 1 light bead again and bring the needle through the fourth bead of the first row:

2.4. Cast on 1 light bead and bring the needle through the first bead of the first row and the first bead of the second row:

The second row is ready - there are 4 beads in it.

3. Weave the third row - in this row you need to increase the number of beads, in this case to 8 beads:

3.1. Cast on 2 dark beads and bring the needle through the second bead of the second row:

3.2. Cast on 2 dark beads again and bring the needle through the third bead of the second row:

3.3. Cast on 2 dark beads again and bring the needle through the fourth bead of the second row:

3.4. Cast on 2 dark beads and bring the needle through the first bead of the second row and the first bead of the third row:

The third row is ready - there are 8 beads in it.

4. Before starting to weave the fourth row, put the braid on the bead, securing it to it with a pin and eraser, as shown in the photo.

As comfortable as you like - tight:

Or freely:

5. We weave the fourth row - in this and subsequent rows (before decreasing) we have 8 beads left:

5.1. Cast on 1 light bead and bring the needle through the second bead of the third row:

5.2. Cast on 1 light bead again and bring the needle through the third bead of the third row:

5.3. Continue weaving to the end of the row, and then finish the row by bringing the needle through the first bead of the third row and the first bead of the fourth row:

The fourth row is ready - there are 8 beads in it.

6. By the same principle as the fourth row, all other rows are woven up to the eleventh.

7. We weave the twelfth row - on it we reduce the number of beads to 4:

7.1. Cast on 1 light bead and bring the needle through the second and third beads of the eleventh row:

7.2. Cast on 1 light bead again and bring the needle through the fourth and fifth beads of the eleventh row:

7.3. Once again, cast on 1 light bead and bring the needle through the sixth and seventh beads of the eleventh row:

7.4. Cast on 1 light bead and bring the needle through the eighth and first beads of the eleventh row:

and then - through the first bead of the twelfth row:

The twelfth row is ready - there are 4 beads in it.

8. We weave the thirteenth row, the last one:

8.1. Cast on 1 dark bead and bring the needle through the second bead of the twelfth row:

8.2. Cast on 1 dark bead again and bring the needle through the third bead of the twelfth row:

8.3. Cast on 1 dark bead again and bring the needle through the fourth bead of the twelfth row:

8.4. Cast on 1 dark bead and bring the needle through the first bead of the twelfth row and the first bead of the thirteenth row:

8.5. Go through the beads of the thirteenth row with a needle, pulling them into a ring:

The thirteenth (last) row is ready - there are 4 beads in it.

9. Fasten and hide the ends of the thread:

Some useful tips:

1. Rows in which beads are added and subtracted (in the example, these are the 3rd and 11th rows), for a better fit, weave from slightly smaller beads (select them using sizing)

2. The number of central rows when weaving beads of the same diameter can be different - depending on the beads used, because, unfortunately, the real and nominal sizes of the beads do not always coincide exactly. For example, if the beads are closer in size to No. 11, then weave more rows; if closer to No. 9, then fewer. If the bead turns out to be slightly “square”, this just means that more central rows were made than necessary.

3. After the braid is put on the bead, continue braiding by creasing the braid over the bead. If the braid begins to puff up and fit poorly to the bead, it means it’s time to add or decrease rows, or you initially made the wrong calculation of the rows.

4. When braiding large beads and beads with a complex pattern, it is convenient to start braiding not from the edges, but from the “belt” of the bead, i.e. from the central rows, then decreasing to the edges.

5. As a base bead for braiding, use beads that match the color of the beads. If you don’t have these at hand, you can use them.

For convenience, I will give several ready-made examples of calculating rows when braiding beads of different diameters (for Czech beads No. 10):

1. Bead 6 mm: 1st row – 3 beads, 2nd row – 6, 3-8th row – 6, 9th row – 3
2. Bead 8 mm: 1st row – 4 beads, 2nd row – 4, 3rd row – 8, 4-11th row – 8, 12th row – 4, 13th row – 4
3. Bead 10 mm: 1st row – 5 beads, 2nd row – 5, 3rd row – 10, 4-13th row – 10, 14th row – 5, 15th row – 5
4. Bead 12 mm: 1 row – 4, 2 row – 4, 3 row – 8, 4 row – 8, 5 row – 8, 6 row – 12, 7-13 row – 12, 14 row – 8, 15 row – 8, 16 row - 8, 17 row - 4, 18 row – 4