How to determine the back and face. How to distinguish the front side of knitting from the back side

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Methodological development of the lesson "Determination of the front and back sides of materials. Properties of fabrics." The lesson is built on the principles of systematicity, consistency in teaching and application of acquired knowledge in practice. During the lesson, problematic situations are created that allow students to independently solve the problems that arise. New acquired knowledge is consolidated during the business game "Atelier".

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MUNICIPAL BUDGETARY EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION

"Secondary school No. 22 of Vladivostok"

METHODOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT

Topic: Determining the front and back sides of a material.

Properties of fabrics.

Completed by: Technology teacher

MBOU "Secondary School No. 22"

Vladivostok

Mospan I.V.

Vladivostok 2015

Lesson plan.

Subject. The front and back side of the fabric. Properties of fabrics.

Example of work: Study of fabric properties. Business game "Atelier"

Lesson objectives:

  • introduce students to the basic properties of fabric, teach them to identify the front and back sides of fabric;
  • develop spatial understanding and performing skills;
  • instill neatness skills;
  • correction of attention, thinking, visual memory.

Lesson type: combined.

Materials and tools: textbook, workbook, fabric samples, glue, scissors, hand needle, thread.

During the classes

  1. Organizing time.

A) Checking those present;

B) Checking readiness for the lesson

  1. Repetition of covered material.
  1. What section are we studying now?
  2. What is wool?
  3. What is a fleece?
  4. What is raw silk?
  5. How to determine the right side of printed fabric?
  6. How to determine the right side of plain-dyed fabric?
  1. Learning new material.

Girls, please look carefully at your fabric samples. What other ways can you determine the right side of the fabric?

- Are you having any difficulties?

- What do you think will be discussed? at the lesson?

- - That's right, let's start the lesson of gaining new knowledge and formulate the topic of our lesson today "The front and back side of the fabric. Properties of fabrics

(question to the class)

How do you think. Why do we guys need to know this?

(students offer various answer options, the teacher asks, if necessary, leading questions, gives some comments,)

Communication of new material (+ P/R)

Front and back side.

Textile - textile fabric , made on a loom.

The fabric consists of two interwoven threads arranged perpendicularly. The system of threads running along the fabric is calledbasis , and the system of threads located across the fabric -duck .

The surface of the fabric depends on the finishing characteristics of the fabrics.

Now, let’s take fabric samples in our hands and look at them carefully...

Signs of identifying facialand the wrong side of the fabric(§3, pp.15-16)

  • According to the printed drawing.Printed fabric has a brighter and clearer pattern on the front side of the fabric.
  • On the surface. Smoothly dyed fabrics have a smoother front side and a fuzzier back side. To determine fluffiness, it must be viewed at eye level.
  • According to the weaving pattern.In twill weave fabrics, the rib on the front side goes from bottom to top and from left to right.
  • By shine. For example, satin fabric is more shiny than sateen.
  • Accuracy. The number of knots, loops, and ends of broken threads on the front side is less than on the back side.
  • According to the pile. The front side of velvet or corduroy has a long pile. On the reverse side the surface is smooth or the pile is short. In drapes, the pile is located more orderly on the front side, and the back side has a slightly sloppy appearance.
  • Along the edge. There are pinholes along the edges of the fabric near the hem. On the front side, the fabric at the puncture sites is more convex.
  • Mixed fabrics.The finishing threads are brought to the front side. For example, in brocade, a shiny metallic lurex thread is displayed on the front side.

There are single-sided and double-sided fabrics. Remember that determining the right side and back side plays an important role when cutting clothes.

In single-sided fabrics, the front and back sides are sharply different from each other. In double-sided fabrics this difference is almost unnoticeable, i.e. both sides can be used for cutting.

Question. What influences the correct identification of the front side of the material?

The nature of the front side of the fabric depends on:

Purpose;

Appearance of the product;

Processing during product manufacturing

Properties of fabrics.

Girls, in the last lesson we worked with you to create clothing models from various materials.

Question. Did you encounter any difficulties while doing your job?What questions have arisen?

In order not to make a mistake in choosing fabric for the manufacture of any product, you must be able to correctly determine the properties that they possess. The properties of the fabric influence the choice of model and processing of the product.

The main properties of fabrics include mechanical, physical and technological.

Table 2.

Studying the properties of wool and silk fabrics

Name of fabric properties

Characteristics of fabric properties

Silk

Made from wool

Mechanical properties

Strength

Wrinkleability

Drapability

Wear resistance

Physical properties

Heat-protective

Hygroscopicity

Dust capacity

Technological properties

Slip

Shatterability

Shrinkage

The table is filled using the material(§3, pp. 16-17 and other work. pp. 18-19)

  • Mechanical propertiesdetermine how the tissue reacts to the action of external forces.

Strength - the ability of the fabric to resist tearing. This is one of the important properties affecting the quality of the fabric.

Wrinkleability - the ability of fabric to form folds during compression and pressure on it.

Drapability - the ability of the fabric, when it hangs, to fall in soft rounded folds. It is no coincidence that curtains and curtains on windows are called draperies.

Wear resistance- the ability of the fabric to withstand the effects of friction, stretching, bending, compression, moisture, light, sun, temperature, sweat, etc.; depends on the strength of the fabric fibers.

  • Physical properties- properties aimed at preserving human health.

Thermal properties- the ability of fabric to retain the heat of the human body; depends on the composition, thickness and type of finishing of the fabric.

Hygroscopicity– the ability of fabric to absorb moisture.

Dust capacity - the ability of the fabric to retain dust and other contaminants.

  • Technological properties- properties that appear in the fabric during the manufacturing process of the product, from cutting to WTO.

Slip - can occur when cutting and stitching fabrics and depends on the smoothness of the fabrics and the type of weave.

Shatterability - lies in the fact that the threads are not held along the open sections of the material and slip out, crumble, forming a fringe.

Shrinkage - reduction in fabric size under the influence of heat and moisture, depends on fiber composition, structure and finishing.

And now, having received new knowledge, we will continue to work on creating clothing models.

  1. EXECUTION SEQUENCE

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK

Teacher

I invite you to become experts in our laboratory to study the properties of fibers and fabrics. We will conduct research to determine the properties of silk and wool

The teacher introduces students to the equipment they will work with during the lesson.

Teacher

In this lesson you will use the following laboratory equipment:

  • magnifying glasses - for examining the appearance,
  • porcelain cup - for burning,
  • tongs, for picking up hot dishes or hot materials,
  • needle and thread, scissors, needle.

Therefore, it is necessary to remember and carry outsafety regulations.

1. Dangers at work:

needle damage to fingers

hand injury from scissors;

· eye injury.

2. What you need to do before starting work:

· Place tools and equipment in the designated place.

3. What to do while working:

It is forbidden to start work without the permission of the teacher.
- Listen carefully to all the teacher’s instructions when conducting research.
- Keep the workplace in order.

· be attentive;

Inject needles and pins only into the needle bed;

Place the scissors on the right with the blades closed, pointing away from you;

Pass scissors only with closed blades and rings forward.

4. What to do after finishing work:

Remove workplace

Teacher

Start researching. All research results must be written down in a notebook in order to correctly draw a conclusion about the work done.

Instructions for performing the work are given.

ACTION PLAN

Condition: following the action plan.

1 . Fill out Table 1 “Distinctive features of fibers.” (lesson #1)

2 .Fill out table 2 "

Laboratory work No. 2. Studying the properties of natural wool and silk fabrics

Materials and tools:samples of natural and woolen fabrics, textbook, workbook, hand needle, thread.

Teacher induction:

Sequence of work execution.

  • Determine the strength of fabrics.
  • Determine creasing woolen fabric and natural silk fabric
  • Determine drape first wool and then silk fabric.
  • Describe the nature of the surface of the fabrics (smoothness, shine), draw a conclusion about their sliding
  • Determine crumbling fabric, taking out the threads with a needle, first one, two, three together, etc.
    Easy to fray fabric- 5 threads were immediately taken out without any effort.

Average crumbling- 3 - 4 threads at once.
Doesn't crumble - one thread was taken out with difficulty.

  • Organize your observations in your workbook as a table.

3. Determine the right side of the fabric.

4 . Business game "Atelier"

BUSINESS GAME “ATELIER”

Condition: All work is done as a team, consistently,keeping the progress of the work.

Progress:

  1. Come up with a name for the studio.
  2. Assign roles:

Customer-

  • By appearance
  • By purpose: casual or dressy,

Technologist-

Fashion designer-

  1. Incorporating new knowledge into a knowledge system (7 min)

Teacher

Nowadays, as a rule, mixed fabrics are used, that is, synthetic fibers are added to wool and silk fibers and then fabrics with new properties are obtained that shrink less when worn and are easier to wash and clean.

Guys. Presents clothing care messages. (homework)

  1. Analysis and evaluation of the lesson.

What new did you learn in the lesson?

Will the knowledge and skills gained in today's lesson be useful to you in everyday life?

Complete the phrase:

I understand that….

I learned…

I was surprised...

I wanted….

  1. Results and evaluation of the work performed.

Thank you all for your fruitful work. I hope you liked the lesson.

You listened carefully to new material, answered questions, and conducted research. You conducted mutual and self-monitoring of the work performed, and analyzed your mistakes.

Everyone saw how well they understood the topic of today's lesson.

  1. Homework.
  • § 3, p. 15-20;
  • Creative task -Pick up riddles, proverbs, sayings about fabrics.

It is advisable to arrange it on album sheets with drawings.

  • Repeat the structure of a sewing machine (grade 5)
  • Bring: cotton fabric 15*15 cm, thread, scissors, machine needle No. 90
  1. Cleaning workplaces

Lesson "Properties of fabrics"

SEQUENCE OF WORK COMPLETION

Condition: All work is done as a team, consistently,following the action plan.

1. Fill out Table 1 “Distinctive features of fibers.”

2. Fill out table 2 "Study of the properties of wool and silk fabrics"

3. Determine the right side of the fabric.

4. Business game “Atelier”

BUSINESS GAME “ATELIER”

Condition: All work is done as a team, consistently,keeping the progress of the work.

Progress:

  1. Come up with a name for the studio.
  2. Assign roles:

Customer- comes to the studio with his fabric and expresses a wish about what kind of product he would like to sew.

  • By appearance : dress, sundress, blouse, skirt, coat, vest or others….
  • By purpose: casual or dressy,

Sports, entertainment (for carnival participants, theater artists) or others.....

Technologist- defines and names the basic properties of fabrics (Tables 1, 2). Concludes: “Is this fabric suitable for the desired product?”

Fashion designer- In accordance with the fabric properties presented by the technologist, he offers the customer a product style.

3. Defense of the work (a sketch of the model, proposed fabric is presented, performance of the game participants in accordance with the assigned roles).


Even at the stage of choosing fabric, you should decide on its front and back sides, because the appearance of the product will depend on this. Confusion can lead to a fatal error when cutting, and the item will be damaged. The result can be affected not only by a lack of knowledge, but also by lighting, so it is not advisable to examine the fabric in the evening or in too bright light. There are a number of criteria that will help to correctly determine the aspects of matter and allow you to avoid common mistakes.

In this article we will summarize the experience of professional tailors, which will be useful to a wide range of readers.

Determine the front and back sides of the fabric

Fabrics can be single- or double-sided. In the first, the front and back sides have large differences that cannot be ignored. The latter have identical or slightly different sides. Moreover, for some materials only one of them is used, while for others the back and face are equivalent.

Simple signs
Fabrics with a printed pattern are an easy object to determine the sides of the material, because the pattern on the front side is brighter than on the back.

Fabrics with a woven pattern have a clearer texture on the front side. Such materials include jacquard and guipure with cord thread. They can combine jacquard and printed patterns.

The weaving of satin and satin is characterized on the front side by the presence of a hem located at different angles. In addition, the front surface is smoother, shiny and pleasant to the touch, unlike the back.

Twill is easily distinguished by the rib on both sides, which is located at an angle of 45º, but on each side it has a different direction. On the front surface, the scar goes from left to right and from bottom to top, and from the back - vice versa. Twill lining fabrics are characterized by a silky shiny surface on the front side, and on the back it is rough and matte, as cotton thread is used in production.

Finishing the fabric with sequins, metallic thread, embossing and embroidery - all this allows you to easily identify the front side. And in mixed fabrics, more expensive material is used for the front surface. In any case, the front side will look more attractive and richer, so it’s impossible to make a mistake.

More complex cases
When studying pile fabrics, you can make a mistake when determining the sides, since the pile can also be on the inside, like in paper. The latter has a smooth front side and is decorated with a printed pattern. You can unmistakably determine the reverse side of velor, velvet and corduroy - the fabric looks attractive only on one side.

Single-sided flannel can be puzzling to a novice tailor, as it is difficult to distinguish the sides - the plain weave and pile are present on both sides. Moreover, the back and front sides are colored the same.

The front side of the drapes is distinguished by a smoothed pile and a pattern that has one direction, or a dense pattern in the absence of pile. Loose weaving is a distinctive feature of the reverse side of this fabric. You will have to take a closer look at a double-sided drape: from the inside, the pattern is less clear, or the pile does not look very neat.

Broadcloth also presents certain difficulties when determining the sides of the fabric. This is due to the fact that the plain weave is tufted. The front side can be identified by the woven colored thread. If you forcefully run your fingers along the surface of the fabric on both sides, then the wrong side will be the side with less dense pile and worse surface quality.


If the signs listed above cannot be determined, then they are guided by the properties of the surface. The side with a higher quality fabric, a minimum number of defects and a smooth surface is the front side.

The presence of fluff can be used as a criterion when studying cotton and linen fabrics with smooth coloring and plain weave. To assess the brightness of the fabric and the presence of lint, you need to shine light on the material along its surface.

Difficult cases
Synthetic fabrics are more difficult to determine the back and front sides. They do not have defects, lint or weaving knots, which is due to the use of modern technologies for their production. All properties and color of the material are set at the stage of thread formation.

The quality of the edge and the presence of holes on it is the only sign that can indicate the front or back side. The edge with the best quality serves as a sign of the front side. Holes in the fabric are formed by tension on the calenders, even at the stage of finishing the material. However, these signs can also be deceiving. Not always, as is commonly believed, the convex side of the holes is on the front side; their reverse arrangement is also possible.

Determining the sides of a grosgrain weave can be difficult. Reps are made not only from cotton fibers, but also from synthetic silk. It, like crepe and tartan, is a double-sided material, which makes it impossible to find differences between the back and the face.


When considering woolen fabrics, you should pay attention to the brightness of the colored threads: the side with the more saturated color is considered the front side. If the material is rolled up, then the front side of it faces inward.

Instead of a conclusion
If the fabric cannot be determined by all of the above methods, then you should trust tactile sensations. Women's fingers are the most sensitive instrument, so it is difficult to deceive them.

It happens that the cutter has a desire to deliberately use the wrong side. The discrepancy between the views of the authors of the fabric and the opinions of the tailor is a normal phenomenon. If the reverse side seems more attractive for creating an outfit, then you need to follow your feelings. Moreover, no one will know which side was considered the front side.


Working with fabric requires care, the final result depends on it. The product should not have defects, so when cutting it is important to correctly determine the wrong side.

For most fabrics it is visually different, but, for example, with chiffon or organza this is impossible, so there are other methods of recognition.

Weaving factories also produce double-faced fabrics; in this case, the seamstress independently chooses which side to cut on.

These include:

  • fleece;
  • some species;
  • stretch silk;
  • suit wool;
  • tapestry, corduroy with fur backing.

Such materials can be used for sewing various products - coats, capes, jackets, blazers, ponchos.

Studying the structure and pattern of fabric

It is very easy to distinguish the back side from the front side if you buy a printed canvas. You need to lay out the pattern on it where the pattern is dull. The “face” of printed fabrics is easily determined. From the outside the image is bright, clear, saturated, but from the inside it looks faded.

You can easily identify the right side of jacquard and printed fabrics. In the process of weaving threads on the machine, a relief is formed on top. The underside is smoother. On it you will not see the knots typical of Chanel and bouclé fabrics.

What if you have to work with a plain fabric? The reverse sides of silk, satin, and satin are matte. The gloss and shine of the fibers is present only on the outside. It is easy to find out where the wrong side of a smooth fabric is: on it the surface is more fleecy, weaving defects (knots, thickening of the thread) are found.

Edge detection

Any fabric has a sealing weave on both edges to prevent fraying. It is called a selvage, which is created by introducing an additional thread (sometimes it may differ in color). It is visible only from the front side of the fabric. If you notice symbols in the form of letters, numbers or inscriptions, place the canvas in a convenient position for reading, this will be the front part.

The surest sign of identification is the punctures made by the loom along the edge. The needles are inserted from the wrong side, holes are formed, therefore, bulges are formed on the front side, which are felt tactilely.

This method helps dressmakers figure out how to cut correctly:

  • gauze;
  • muslin;
  • organza;
  • batiste;

The edges of some fabrics are not punctured. In this case, look carefully: where the surface is smooth, there is a “face”. On the reverse side it is rough, with nodules and thickenings.

In order not to be mistaken in determining the wrong side, ask the seller to make a mark with a tailor's chalk upon purchase. Just don’t delay cutting, the image may disappear after a while. If you have tried all the methods, but still cannot determine where the face is and where the wrong side of the fabric is, place the pattern on the side that you like best, the main thing is not to confuse them in the process.

When purchasing fabric for sewing any product, before you start cutting, it is very important to accurately determine the back and front sides of the fabric. However, this is not always quite simple. The canvas may look exactly the same from all sides, but you can notice flaws in its appearance and understand that you started sewing from the inside out only when the product is ready.

How to determine the “face” of a fabric?

There is a tendency in textile factories to produce double-sided fabrics that are absolutely identical on both sides. They are usually called two-faced. This is quite convenient, because then there is no need to determine the wrong side before sewing the product. But this is the exception rather than the rule. If the material you choose is not of this type, then you need to remember seven simple basic rules that will tell you where the wrong side of the fabric is:

  1. You can take a closer look at the fabric and roughly calculate its front part for yourself at the time of purchase. Carefully examine the roll and how the fabric you choose is rolled. Most fabrics, for example, silk and wool, are rolled with the right side inward to protect the “face” from damage, fading, and unnecessary defects. Cotton fabrics, on the contrary, are rolled with the inside out.
  2. Having bought fabric with a printed pattern, the question of determining the wrong side will disappear almost immediately. By laying it out so that the back and face are visible, you will notice that the print on such a canvas will be much brighter and clearer on the face side. If you are still not sure, feel the fabric. On the front side it will be smooth, with even pile and a slight sheen. On the reverse side it is slightly fleecy and dull.
  3. Using the same principle, you can identify some fabrics on which patterns and designs are applied by piercing the fabric from the back to the face: from the front side, by running over the embossed pattern, you can feel slight irregularities and bulges.
  4. In mixed fabrics, the reverse side looks less neat and upon closer examination you will notice that it has much more roughness, barely noticeable knots, uneven weaves, thickened threads and other weaving defects. On the front side, the material has a glossy, shiny finish; exceptionally expensive threads and neat weaving are visible.
  5. In satin and satin fabrics, due to the special weave on the front side, they are characteristically shiny, smooth, very soft and pleasant to the touch. On the reverse side, the product is a little rough, with visible hairiness, matte, and the color of the canvas, even without a pattern applied to it, is much duller.
  6. By the edge of the fabric and by the punctures on it, you can also easily determine the front side of the material. During production, it is pierced with pins from the inside out, leaving characteristic marks on the finished canvas. So the face can be identified by the holes, which will be convex on one side and concave on the back. On the edge you can see colored threads that are missing from the inside.
  7. It is also important to take a closer look at the presence of embroidery on the hem. In such places, the manufacturer puts the name of the company, the fabric, or a list of materials that make up the fabric. This embroidery is visible only from the front side of the fabric.

It’s not difficult to determine the wrong side, you just need to take a closer look at the details. In some cases, if you are dealing with plain fabrics without prints, this does not play such a big role. For the front side, you can take the one that seems to you to be of the highest quality. In the future, it is important not to get confused only when making product parts.

"Barbatextile" is the right choice for purchasing fabrics!

If you decide to choose a fabric in order to sew something with your own hands, then our online store “Barbatextile” is an excellent choice. In our store you can find a complete catalog of various natural, synthetic, blended fabrics at competitive prices, both retail and wholesale. Order from us, and you will always be confident in the quality of the purchased product!

According to www.hunky-dory.ru, in the descriptions of models there are quite often abbreviations that clarify that you are knitting on the front side (knit) or on the wrong side (purl). Often such clarifications precede a whole series of instructions.

It is easier to distinguish the front side from the back side when several rows are knitted and the pattern is visible. Of course, this also depends on the type of loops used. To understand which side you are knitting on, you can also focus on the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.

If this thread is in the left corner of the product, then you knit on the front side and, conversely, if it is in the right corner, then you knit on the wrong side. This is explained by the fact that the base row following the initial chain of chain stitches is knitted from right to left.

If you are knitting a single fabric and using a type of stitch that has a different structure on the front and back sides, then you can choose which side is considered the “front” side. At the same time, some complex patterns, in which several colors of yarn are used, have an easily recognizable reverse side.

Some types of loops have a similar structure on the front and back sides. To distinguish them, you can look at the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.

If the front side of the product is in front of you, then this thread will be in the lower left corner. And, conversely, other types of loops have a different structure on the front and back sides.

The description often specifies which side of the product should be worked on: the front (front) or the back (purl). As a rule, these abbreviations precede a description of the work on the product shape.

When knitting complex multi-colored patterns, it is very important to be able to distinguish between the front and back sides, since unused threads of the motifs should be pulled along the wrong side.

Based on materials from the magazine "Wonderful Hook"

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