What to make a warm winter jacket from. Master class: how to sew an unlined windbreaker with a hood using a pattern

A leather jacket is one of the most popular items in any person's wardrobe. This stylish item goes well with absolutely any item in your basic wardrobe, both on a walk and at work.

When faced with the question of how to make a women's leather jacket yourself, it can be a little scary. However, this task is not so overwhelming if you look at it. All you need for the job is a pattern, which is easy to make yourself, and a sewing machine to ensure that all the seams are neat.

Since a leather jacket is an element of outerwear, any errors will actually be visible. Important!

Be sure to decide on the decoration of the jacket before starting work.

Cutting and sewing a leather jacket with your own hands

Leather as a material has excellent properties that allow the product to fit well, be universally suitable for various clothes and serve for a much longer period. Required Items

• To sew a leather jacket yourself:
• Material: leather or leather substitute.
• Zippers, belts, rivets.
• Sewing machine.
• Non-woven fabric.
• Scissors, threads according to color.

Pattern. Products made from genuine leather are highly valued, but you can also make a jacket from a leather substitute.

Such a product will look very good when finished, and will be a great way for novice craftsmen to practice before creating leather products.

Sewing a leather jacket can be quite simple, the main thing is to accurately decide on the model at the very beginning. There are several common types of jackets: classic, youth and biker (leather jackets).

When working with leather, you should remember several important rules:

• For easier sliding on the material, you can use sunflower oil.
• It is better to use the lining for a leather jacket from natural materials, thus avoiding the sauna effect when worn.
• To glue individual elements, you can use non-woven glue.
• You can use chalk to make marks when creating a pattern - after that it can be easily washed off with an ordinary soft cloth dipped in water.

In the next master class, we will look at the construction and sewing of a fashionable leather jacket, which has long held a leading position in the wardrobes of people of all ages.

Model:

Pattern

This stylish jacket is a perfect addition to any wardrobe, as it can be combined with both trousers and dresses. Designers recommend choosing calm, dark colors for sewing a classic biker jacket, however, absolutely nothing prevents you from decorating it with decorative elements.

Reference! Making a pattern is quite an interesting and time-consuming process. You can purchase it from various online resources or build it yourself.

We decided to carry out the calculations ourselves and describe this process in detail.

The construction of the pattern takes place in several stages:

1. First you need to take measurements of size 48: Half neck circumference (19.5), 1/2 chest circumference (48), sleeve length (60), product length (78).
2. On paper, mark a 90 degree angle with point A at its apex.
3. From point A to the right, set aside the PoG size with a fit allowance of +15 cm (48+15=63 cm) and mark B.
4. From A down, draw a line 78 cm +2 and mark H (AH = 80) and draw horizontally from H, and from B vertically 2 lines. Mark the crossing point B1.
5. Marking of the chest line: from A 1/3 of half the chest circumference +8 cm, mark as G (AG=48/3+8=24). To the right side of G, draw parallel to AB and mark G1 at the intersection with the vertical line from B.
6. For the wide side of the back along the chest line from G, mark 1/3 PoG + 7 cm, mark g (48/3 + 7 = 23 cm). From this mark upward, draw parallel to the line of the back, and at the point of intersection with AB, mark C.
7. The size of the wide part of the armhole along the chest line: from g, draw 1/4 PoG + 5 cm - point g1 (48/4 + 5 = 17 cm). Up from r1, draw a line of parallel to the middle part of the front of C1.
8. The wide part of the sprout: along AB to the right side of A 1/8 PoG + 1.5 cm a (48/8 + 1.5 = 7.5).
9. High part of the sprout: Draw a line up from a, which is equal to 1/2 of the wide part of the sprout - 1 cm, mark as a1 (7.5/2-1 = 2.8 cm), a, a1 and A combine.
10. Bevel for the shoulder along the back: From C, put 2 cm down and mark point.
11. The wide side of the shoulder for the back: connect a1 and p, on the segment g g1, divide it into 2 equal parts and place O. From g, draw a line of 3.5 cm to divide the angle in half g2.
12. I will unite the back armhole at points p1, p2, r2 and O.
13. We build the wide part of the neckline along the front as follows: from point B, set aside 1/8 PoG + 1.5 cm and mark B1 (BB1 = 48/8 + 1.5 = 7.5 cm). Draw a line 7.5 cm down from B. Mark it as b. Connect B1 and b.
14. Bevel for the front shoulder: set aside 2.5 cm from C1 and mark p3.
15. Armhole: combine p4, p5, g3 and O.
16. To build a sleeve, you need to measure a rectangle with a height A of 60 cm + 4 cm for seams and freedom of fit, and width AB = PoG + 3 = 48 + 3 = 51 cm.
17. The sleeve cap is built on PoG/8+2 and is equal to 8. Its center is exactly in the middle of 25.5 cm.

Thus, according to the cutting pattern on the artificial leather canvas, the following should be obtained:

Sewing steps

After the pattern is ready and all the elements have been cut using leatherette fabric, you need to thread them together:

• You should start by sewing on the pockets. To do this, attach the rectangular piece to the location of the pocket from the wrong side. It is recommended to treat the pocket immediately - locks, rivets or other decorative elements that you like.
• After this, you need to connect the shoulder seams.
• Sew the collar blank into the neckline.
• Next, you should process the sleeves and cuffs.
• Connect at the sides.
• Hem the bottom of the jacket.

Attention! Keep in mind that sloppy seams or shoulder seams on a finished jacket can be covered with patches, straps or rivets, so don't worry about there being a slight error somewhere.

Thus, we are convinced that it is quite possible to sew a leather jacket yourself! However, this process requires a certain perseverance and patience.

The most interesting thing about sewing this quilted jacket/jacket is the “toasted crust” technology, which prevents the insulation from migrating through the needle holes that inevitably form during stitching.
The jacket is made of raincoat fabric with a shiny side. Coat fabric was chosen as a companion for the sleeves and placket. The raincoat, quilted with synthetic padding, matches the thickness of the drape parts. The jacket is lined.

Fried crust technology

We “fried” 100 g/m2 padding polyester with a thickness of 1 cm. This brand of insulation easily delaminates in half. This is half the thickness we need. We layered it, laid it down, covered it with a dry cotton iron and ran the iron over it several times.
The top layer becomes like a baked crust, but by no means completely melted. The second side of the part should remain unmelted, with fluff. Try different times and temperatures on the sample to get the best results.
Using a pocket as an example, let's look at how the layers are laid out. We place the fried crusts on the outer sides of the pocket so that the insulation from the outer and inner sides does not ooze through the holes from the needle.

On the details of the raincoat fabric we apply the pattern of the future stitch. Let's break down the layers using the back as an example. We place the parts in the following order: a part made of raincoat fabric, lined (right side) down, on it with the fried side of half a layer of padding polyester, on it a part made of a layer of padding polyester. This way we duplicate all the details of the raincoat fabric, except for the pocket.

Stitching technology for front and back parts

When the back and front pieces are ready for quilting, we pin all the layers together. We sew each part along the contour, fastening all the layers together and proceed to stitching the parts. First we sew a pattern of vertical stripes, without interrupting the line. On the reverse side of the part its continuous pattern is clearly visible.

We continue to quilt the bottom of the part with diamonds. The sequence of continuous stitching is shown in the photo. We quilt the top of the part in the same way.

Stitching and assembling pockets

On the details of the pocket made of raincoat fabric we draw the lines of the future stitch. We place the prepared insulation bag between the raincoat and lining fabric. We fasten all layers with pins, stitch along the front side and the contour of the pocket.

We adjust the pocket according to the pattern and edge the top edge. We sew the binding to the remaining open sections from the wrong side of the pocket and baste it from the front side, but do not attach it.

Assembly and installation of front and back parts

We sew the side seams of the quilted parts of the front and back, punch the blocks under the cord at the waist line, sew on the rectangular drawstring piece, sew the pockets to the jacket and remove the basting.

We attach the lining piece to the back of the jacket, chopping off all the layers along the contour and waistline.
Important! Above the drawstring and hem line we make a small influx of lining fabric so that in the finished product the lining does not pull the jacket towards itself.

We adjust the lining exactly along the back cuts, not forgetting to leave allowances for sewing the side seam. At the bottom of the armhole, leave a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

We similarly adjust the lining of the front halves of the jacket.

After installation, remove the pins and sew the side seams of the lining. Pin the lining to the jacket, matching the cuts. Don't forget to create a flow over the drawstring and the hemline.

We edge the bottom of the jacket.

Sew on the sleeves of the jacket

The sleeves and placket of the jacket are made of coat fabric. Sew the sleeves and make a hem at the bottom.
We fold the lining of the jacket down and attach it with pins so that it does not interfere. Sew the sleeves into the armholes.

We sew sleeves made of lining fabric into the armholes of the lining. Then we sew the bottom of the lining to the hem of the sleeve and hand hem the hem to the sleeve.

Turn the jacket right side out.

Zip placket

We cut out the jacket placket from coat fabric. You will need two identical parts, as in the photo. One strip is the top, the second (edging) is the bottom. We duplicate both strips with glue and edge the bottom strip along the outer contour with lining fabric. Don't forget about the hanger loop.

We sew the top placket to the jacket, sew in the zipper, sew on the bottom placket (edging), sew off the seams, pull the cord into the drawstring - the trigger is ready.
Each individual process (stitching, edging, zipper sewing, etc.) can be found in these articles.

If you think that sewing a jacket is something out of science fiction, you are mistaken. All you need is basic sewing skills and the desire to sew a jacket without much difficulty.

Since the material turned out to be more voluminous than planned, I decided to do two master classes on sewing a jacket - in one I will talk about creating a pattern, cutting out the parts of the jacket, sewing the lining, back, front and pockets. In another master class we will work on assembling the jacket and finishing details.

I like short jackets that look like a women's fitted jacket. However, if you work a little with the base pattern of an ordinary women's jacket (remove reliefs and darts, make a one-seam sleeve and slightly deepen the armhole, remove lapels, etc.), you can get an excellent jacket pattern, for example, a parka.

I’m not giving the jacket pattern for obvious reasons - each of us has individual sizes. I based my pattern on a regular classic jacket (I took the pattern from a magazine one size larger, since I planned to sew it on a lining with a thin layer of synthetic padding), slightly modernizing it:

That seems to be the whole description of the jacket. You can use the pattern of your old jacket - use a measuring tape to transfer all the measurements onto paper and slightly adjust the finished patterns. By the way, from the scraps that were left after cutting the jacket, I sewed this one.

To sew a jacket I needed:

Cutting out the details of the jacket

Master class: How to sew a jacket with your own hands, step by step

Jacket lining

We begin sewing the jacket lining by processing the shelves and borders. We baste and adjust the edges onto the shelves according to the markings. Usually, jackets have a cut-off lining, but since the lining is made of thin synthetic padding, and the outer fabric of the jacket is thin, I made an adjustable lining. That is, we bend the edge of the hem 1 cm to the wrong side, baste it to the shelf and add a finishing stitch.

This is what we end up with:

On the back, using a colored marker or a helium pen (chalk and soap are not visible on the padding polyester), we outline the waist darts. We make the depth of the dart on the lining a little less (about 1 cm) than on the main part of the upper back - for a free fit. We notice and then sew up the darts.

At the bottom of the lining sleeves we add facings from the main fabric, the width of which is approximately 8 cm (I forgot to do this operation, in the end I had to trim the sleeves and adjust the facing. As a result, I have a final photo of the lining without facings :))

Sew the shoulder and side edges of the lining.

Sew the middle seam of the sleeve of the jacket lining. We sweep in and carefully sew the sleeves into the armhole.

We sew a loop and stitch it to the middle of the back of the lining. The jacket lining is ready.

Top of the jacket

The details of the top of the jacket look like this (sleeves, back, side and central part of the front, hem):

We sew the side parts to the central parts of the shelves. We iron the seams and lay finishing lines along the reliefs.

Patch pocket on lining with adjustable flap

Valve

We glue the valve parts with non-woven material.

We fold the valve parts from the main fabric with their faces inward, place the padding polyester part underneath and grind it according to the markings. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching. We turn the valve right side out and add a finishing stitch.

We connect the upper sections of the valve with a stitch. We iron the valve and trim the top edges to 5 mm.

Lined pocket

We trace the pocket pattern on the fabric, add 1.5 cm to the top of the pocket for the edge.

We connect the main part of the pocket and the lining on the padding polyester along the top line, leaving a gap of 5 cm unstitched.

We outline a “re-edging” of 1.5 cm.

We re-edge the part, sew along the markings, and trim off the excess fabric.

We turn the pocket right side out, straighten the corners, and sew up the hole with hidden stitches.

We sew a finishing stitch along the top of the pocket 1 - 1.5 cm wide.

We mark the locations of the pockets on the shelves.

We sew the pocket with a seam 1 mm wide from the edge.

We sew the valve according to the markings (the seams face the pocket). Then we bend the part and lay a finishing stitch the width of the sewing machine foot along the flap.

The pockets with flaps on the jacket are ready - you can leave them like that, or you can sew a buttonhole on a sewing machine and sew on a button. Or install the buttons in a repair shop.

To sew a women's insulated jacket you need:

1. Raincoat fabric.

2. Lining fabric

3. Insulation. In this case, padding polyester with a density of 120 g/sq.m for the lining and padding polyester with a density of 150 g/sq.m for the top material.

4. Zippers, threads, buttons, faux fur for the edge of the hood.

Stages of cutting and sewing.

On the pattern, we mark with notches the place where the facing and facing will be sewn on, for me it is 6 cm.

Fold the sleeve in the center, the edge of the front of the sleeve from the center is smaller than the edge along the back.

Add 1 cm to the seams

We cut the facing separately from the sleeve, adding 1 cm on all sides; we also do the bottom of the shelves and back.

We cut the sleeve completely together with the marked facing and add 1 cm to the seam. We cut the facing separately.

We make the bottom of the front, bottom of the back and sleeves with the same facing width.

We cut one upper collar from the base, the lower collar can be cut from fleece, knitwear, etc.

We cut the front facings, combining the side and the central part in one piece, putting 1 cm on the seam. We also cut the back facings.

Place notches on the front of the facing so as not to mix up the sewing side.

We cut the lining, backs and fronts to the notch + 1 cm per seam.

Cut off the pattern of the barrel shelf and add 1 cm to the seam.

We stitch the lining according to our wishes.

We sew the shelf lining and lining with one line to the padding polyester.

We give a fitting line according to the selection.

We sew a butt plate onto the back. I changed it, it’s easier this way.

The pod is ready, leave a hole in the sleeve.

Combine the details of the shelf and barrel up to the pocket line.

Sew a hidden zipper from and to the pocket entry line.

Sew the other side of the zipper.

This is what the pocket looks like when closed.

Sew on the burlap.

Gather the burlap in a circle.

The pocket is ready.

Sew facings placed on padding polyester to all details of the front, back and sleeves and stitch by 0.1-0.5 cm

Gather the shoulder seam.

Assemble the sleeve with the armhole, fitting along the edge.

Gather the side seam.

Sew the cuff into the sleeve.

Fasten the bottom of the sleeve, the side part.

Assemble the top and bottom collars and sew a locking stitch along the inner collar.

Sew a zipper for the hood and sew a placket on it.

Sew the collar into the neckline.

Prepare the central bar. The top is not synthetic padding, we glue the bottom and mark the hidden buttons.

Sew along the adhesive by 0.1 cm

We see the same thing in the clothing industry: raincoats with detachable lining, trousers that “with a slight movement of the hand turn into elegant shorts.”

We offer you a double-sided demi-season jacket, which with some skill is not difficult DIY at home. The advantages are obvious: you can give free rein to your own imagination and save not only money, but also space in your wardrobe.

So, two-way jacket It is remarkable in that it does not have a reverse side, both of its sides are front. When you decide to sew such a thing, you should remember a few simple rules when choosing fabric:
— the fabric must be non-shedding;
- for both sides it is better to choose a fabric of the same composition, which will give the same shrinkage. Or choose synthetics, which practically “do not shrink”;
— the canvases you choose must match each other in color and pattern.

For demi-season jacket Raincoat fabric, jacket fabrics with water-repellent impregnation, ordinary blended fabrics containing cotton and even satin are suitable. A padding polyester with a thickness of 1-1.5 cm is ideal as insulation. It is irrational to use a thicker padding polyester: it is more difficult to work with, and your jacket is still actually two-layered.

Before cutting, the fabric must be decateted (soaked briefly in warm water or ironed through damp gauze). The method of decating depends on the type of fabric.

Next, cut out the product. The choice of style is at your discretion. The only thing that should be taken into account is a minimum of undercuts and raised seams. After all, all the details will have to be quilted, and the abundance of darts can significantly complicate the task. When cutting, increase seam allowances to 2-3 cm. This is a necessary precaution. Quilted parts may be slightly reduced in linear dimensions due to “thickening”.

Once you've finished cutting, start quilting the pieces. Here your imagination can also run wild. Especially if you are the happy owner of a state-of-the-art sewing machine, which always has several types of figured stitches in its arsenal. If the capabilities of your machine are more modest, simply mark two perpendicular lines with chalk on the front side of the part, install a foot with a limit ruler on the machine, connect the fabric and padding polyester parts with pins for convenience and sew along the front side, combining each previous line with the limit ruler (so you will get strictly parallel lines). To get a smooth surface, alternate parallel and perpendicular stitches. And one more tip: for the product to look better, the direction and angle of the “quilting” machine lines on paired parts should be a “mirror image”. To do this, simply connect the paired parts with the right sides facing inward and pat with your palm so that the chalk mark appears on the second part. When all the parts are quilted, check each of them again with the pattern, trim off the excess.

Now you can proceed to the actual work. Here everything is according to the traditional pattern: you sew down the darts (if any), shoulder and side seams, assemble and sew in the sleeves and hoods. By the way, to the bottom of the hood on one side you can sew a small pocket with a zipper, inside which you can hide a loop for a hanger. For strength, the loop is attached to the seam connecting the hood to the back.

Pockets. In this case, it is better to choose pockets with patches and attach them to one (conditionally front) side. It’s quite possible to do without a second pair of pockets so as not to visually increase the hip area. For each pocket you will need 2 parts made from the main fabric and 1 part from some kind of cushioning material (non-adhesive can be used). Padding is a must if you want the pocket to keep its shape and not hang like a shapeless string bag. Place a spacer piece between the main parts, fold the parts with the wrong sides inward, pin them together and quilt them. Finish the edges of the pockets around the perimeter with bias tape, and then stitch them to the shelves.

So, both parts of the jacket are ready. You can proceed to the final stage. Connect both halves with the wrong sides inward, turning the sleeves to one side. The edges of the jacket are pinned along the perimeter with tailor's pins and stitched at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge (this is a rough stitch, it is needed to make it more convenient to sew on the bias tape). Finish the edges of the jacket and the bottom of the sleeves with bias tape in one or two lines (if you lack experience). Next, mark, sweep and cut the loops. By the way,